skyman Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 While up in Ct. from Fl on a visit, found pin hole leak in pressure hose...put in new hose and all seems to be well...well almost. After we installed new hose and refilled fluid, turned wheels lock to lock several times to bleed air which has been my understanding on how to get air out of the system. "Does the cap on the resivour need to be unscewed while doing this?" Now,after a few days.."it may have been doing it right after we did the job..just didn't notice" I have noticed while doing turning while parralell parking...things that put a strain on system like turning hard while going very slow such as in most parking situations I notice a pump noise almost a faint whine. Maybe I didn't bleed the system properly? I used a high quality ps fluid from the Delco distributor that I bought the hose from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted July 5, 2013 Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 My experience with many older cars of various brands is that it takes about 15 minutes of normal driving for *all* the air to work out of a power steering system, the froth to die down in the pump reservoir, and the true fluid level to become apparent. The process I use is to fill the fluid to the full mark, and put on the cap and tighten it before starting the car. The cap or reservoir will have a breather so you don't need to leave it loose. Starting it and turning the steering lock-to-lock while not moving the car will get most of the air out right there. Then, shut it off, open the reservoir cap, let the froth die down, and add power steering fluid to fill to the full mark. Put the cap back on and drive for 15 minutes, then check the fluid and fill as appropriate. The Northstar has a power steering cooler, the extra little radiator on the lower right in front of the A/C condenser. Thus there is a lot of fluid in the system and the total length of travel of the fluid is higher than an non-cooled power steering system. So, this is all the more reason that you might want to take the trouble to drive the car for 15 minutes and re-check the fluid to make sure that all the air has worked out of the cooler and lines before you cut the car loose for a couple of days. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 6, 2013 Report Share Posted July 6, 2013 You may not have all the air out of the system. With the cap off, start the engine and if there are bubbles or froth in the reservoir, there is still air in the system. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 I jack up the front of the car, it speeds up the turning quite a bit. And yes I keep the cap off just so I can see any changes in the bubbles. * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 The front jacked up, turn the wheel almost stop to stop (stops are hard on the system) 40 times. No kidding, the manual recommended 40 times. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyman Posted July 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 I did find a web site...with instructions. It said with cap off and with engine turned "off". Wheels off the ground, turn stop to stop up to 40 times very slowly. We did this. It took about 10 turns before very tiny bubbles started to form and some movement in the fluid. The noise was almost gone. Now a day later I'm hearing the noise again. I'm thinking that it's going to take several bleedings to get all the air out. http://www.agrperformance.com/AGR-Installation/bleedinginstructions.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z15 Posted July 7, 2013 Report Share Posted July 7, 2013 P.S. whine is caused by air entrained into the fluid, takes time for the air to release from the fluid. Its also probable that low quality PS fluids will by susceptible to this. Mike Synthoil Supply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyman Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Drove it back to Fl. and noticed noise when ever parking along the way. I would call it more of a "pump" noise than a whine. Like the pump is straing to turn the wheels. Perhaps there was air in the system that we just didn't get out and now it's worked it's way to the pump area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 15, 2013 Report Share Posted July 15, 2013 Drove it back to Fl. and noticed noise when ever parking along the way. I would call it more of a "pump" noise than a whine. Like the pump is straing to turn the wheels. Perhaps there was air in the system that we just didn't get out and now it's worked it's way to the pump area. My PS pump sounds like an angry snake if I turn the wheel all the way in the parking lot. It is normal. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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