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Cooling Fan 97 DeVille not working


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Have a 97 Deville, had been leaking coolant slowly, after engine had warmed up it was dripping by passenger front tire ( down the boot area), also associated with? AC would only blow hot air.

Took it in, was told that I needed a new thermostat and a backflush told them to do it if it would fix problem. Now over a 20 mile trip had to pull over 3 times as engine was too hot to drive, had to add coolant as was low. Is it possible that they put a bad thermostat in or should I be worrying more that either they screwed something up when they worked on it or a new problem has arisen?

I took it back, they said the fan was not coming on, and they replaced 3 relays. Also stated they ran power to the fan and it works. Claims it may have to do with the ECU and they aren't qualified to check any further than they have.

Any suggestions? Thanks

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Welcome to caddyinfo forum.

First off pull the codes. It is cake. Turn key on. Look at your climate controls. Hold down the off and red warmer buttons for 3 seconds. Watch the instrument cluster and write down the codes and post them here.

I would try to do a by products combustion test if possible. And check the coolant hose that runs from the reservoir to the driver side at the left dogbone mount, You will find a bolt with the hose going to it. Also known as the bolt with the hole in it. remove the bolt and check for blockage. Very common and causes similair problems.

goood luck

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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Do not replace any more parts until properly diagnosing the system.

Check the purge line to make sure it is flowing - there is a TON of information in the archives on that.

If you are leaking coolant, see what part of the system is the source of the leak - it may be coming from the surge tank overflow tube. Rent or borrow a cooling system pressure tester and test the system cold to see if it holds pressure.

If the purge line is flowing coolant, then test the cooling system for combustion gasses - make sure not to add new coolant prior to the test or you may get a false positive.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Rockfangd,

I did as you suggested, I'm sure there are certain things you'd look for in these codes, I tried to write everything down but got lost.

Trying to be smart I videod it w/my phone and then rather than try to upload a file that someone might be afraid to open I just posted it on youtube. Sorry it's sideways, but maybe you can make some sense of this?

Thanks for all f your help

video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8BIFz_cr6g&feature=youtu.be

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PCM
CURRENT
P0135 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1
P1189 Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit

P1258 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - above 268°F - Protection Mode Active
P1599 Engine Stall or Near Stall Detected

ACM
B1350 Engine Coolant Over-Temperature

SDM
B1163 Loss of Serial Data-No Lamp Response
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
U1255 Class 2 Communication Malfunction (Serial Data Line Malfunction)
B1327 Vehicle system voltage below 9.0 volts

TCS
CURRENT
C1242 Pump Motor Circuit Open

C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled
C1255 EBCM Internal Malfunction (ABS/TCS Disabled)

IRC
B1983 Device Power Circuit Low

RFA
B3108 Transmitter Synchronization Failure
U1300 Class 2 Short to Ground

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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That's a lot of info, not sure what it all means, especially as pertaining to my problem (s). If the info on the coolant temperature is 'current' it can't be correct as the car has not been moved or started in over 36 hrs.

I haven't checked the purge line yet. Is that the next step or do these codes mean I need to go in a different direction?

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No, it's a a fitting going into the crossover near the thermostat housing, and it has a hose on it. The hose goes to a metal hose that goes under the beauty cover and emerges near the surge tank, where another 3/8" rubber hose connects it to the surge tank.

A quick way to check it while the engine is cold is to disconnect the hose at the surge tank and start the car. Coolant should come out the hose freely, but not squirt. If it doesn't, or just drips, the fitting at the crossover is probably clogged.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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While waiting for reply removed hose from coolant tank, got nothing coming from hose. Removed tubing from other end and it was clogged, and I heard a gurgling sound coming from drivers side! Going to clean it out and before reattaching restart car and make sure coolant is coming from where tubing was hooked up.

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looks like it just has spring clamps on it, not a bolt

The end where the hose attaches to the engine is what we call the "BOLT WITH A HOLE IN IT"...

You should remove it.. clean the clog from it and then reinstall it.

If you just push the clog back into the engine... it will eventually stop up again...

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that is a good sign. The bolt with the hole in it is what the hoes goes onto on the driver side. Like I said it is below the driver side dogbone mount

GM FAN FOREVER

Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile

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  • 3 years later...
1 hour ago, coryno said:

Anybody figure out how to repair this issue im having the exact same problem with my 97 deville

Explain what the problem is exactly.  Leaking, overheating, losing coolant, cooling fans not working?  Explain in detail

Dont forget to check for codes and post them here.  If you dont know how see the bottom of my post here.  

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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My car overheats after about 10 minutes of driving, my coolent fan doesn't come on and there's steam coming up from the left side of where the battery sits (seems to be coming from under the battery tray somewhere). It also drips a little coolent after I park where the passenger side tire is

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Ok, check to codes to see if you have cooling fan codes.  

The coolant tank can crack, or the hoses attached to it can leak.  There is a hose at the bottom, a hose at the top that comes from the air purge line and an overflow hose.  

The easiest thing to do is to pressurize the system to find the leak.. 

Inspect the tank area for leaks.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Here's what I saw with the car off and key turned forward but have no idea what I'm looking for. 

PCM

P0603 HISTORY

P1258 HISTORY 

P1645 HISTORY 

IPC

B1552 HISTORY 

B2710 HISTORY 

B2711 HISTORY 

B2750 HISTORY 

B2781 HISTORY 

ACM

B1348 HISTORY 

SDM

B1147 HISTORY 

B1148 HISTORY 

B1161 HISTORY 

NO TCS CODES 

PZM

B0533 HISTORY 

B1552 HISTORY 

B1558 HISTORY 

B1971 HISTORY 

B1983 HISTORY 

B2471 CURRENT

U1128 HISTORY 

IRC 

B1771 HISTORY 

U1255 HISTORY 

U1064 HISTORY 

NO RFA CODES

MSM

B2109 HISTORY 

B2115 HISTORY 

B2116 HISTORY 

B2117 HISTORY 

B2118 HISTORY 

B2119 HISTORY 

B0856 HISTORY 

B1982 HISTORY 

B1656 HISTORY 

NO MMM CODES

PCM?

 

Edited by coryno
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26 minutes ago, BodybyFisher said:

Ok, check to codes to see if you have cooling fan codes.  

The coolant tank can crack, or the hoses attached to it can leak.  There is a hose at the bottom, a hose at the top that comes from the air purge line and an overflow hose.  

The easiest thing to do is to pressurize the system to find the leak.. 

Inspect the tank area for leaks.

Does the hose from the bottom route under the battery somewhere 

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No, it heads back toward the heater pipes.  Hose #1 in this scan is the hose that attaches to the tank

NSHeaterHoses.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I'll check the reservior and hoses tomorrow morning when I have sunlight and keep you updated. I'm still wondering why steams coming from between the battery and passenger side finder though. Thanks for the insight 

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Don't panic at this list:

 PCM
P0603    Control Module Long Term Memory Reset
P1258    Engine Coolant Overtemperature - above 268°F - Protection Mode Active
P1645    Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Solenoid Control Circuit

IPC
B1552    Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
B2710    PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet
B2711    PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key
B2750    PASSKey Data Communication Failure
B2781    Wrong Resistor After Good

ACM
B1348    Very Low A/C Refrigerant Pressure

SDM
B1147    Driver Side Air Bag System Malfunction
B1148    Passenger Side Air Bag System Malfunction
B1161    Lamp Circuit Failure

NO TCS CODES

PZM
B0533    Fuel Sensor Open/Shorted To B+
B1552    Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
B1558    BCM EPROM Checksum Error
B1971    Inadvertent Power
B1972    Low Power Driver Fault
B1981    Battery Voltage Low

B2471    Interior Lamp Fault CURRENT
U1128    Loss of Communications with IRC

IRC
B1171    Internal SDM Failure
U1255    Class 2 Communication Malfunction (Serial Data Line Malfunction)
U1064    Loss of Communications with DIM

NO RFA CODES

MSM
B2109    Lumbar Aft Switch Failed
B2115    Recline Sensor Failed
B2116    Rear Vertical Sensor Failed
B2117    Horizontal Sensor Failed
B2118    Front Vertical Sensor Failed
B2119    Lumbar Forward/Aft Sensor Failed
B0856    Battery 2 Out of Range
B1982    Device Power Circuit High
B1656    EEPROM Write Error

NO MMM CODES

Since ALL of these codes except B2471 Interior Lamp Fault are HISTORY, and you show all the codes for low battery voltage (bold emphasis above), you probably have had battery voltage below 8 or 9 Volts while starting the car recently.  You should check the battery and cables, put it on a charger overnight, and reset the codes (see more on this below).  Then you drive the car and see which codes come back.  If a huge number come back, have the battery checked and make sure that you have a good, fully charged battery and reset the codes.

You can reset the codes using the diagnostic mode by continuing past the "CODES?" prompt until you see "RESET CODES?" and the press FAN UP for YES.  This has to be done for each module.  You can disconnect the battery negative terminal, which will reset nearly all codes, but this will in turn set P0603 and B1552.

The only code you can count on is the CURRENT code, B2471 Interior Lamp Fault. The FSM says to check the 10 Amp (red) INT LPS FUSE in the engine compartment fuse/relay center, and the courtesy relay in the trunk compartment relay center #2.

That said, I don't see any fan codes.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks Jim for describing all the codes.

Ok, you seriously overheated and you don't have any codes for cooling fans.  

I did note that you have a B1348 - Very Low A/C Refrigerant Pressure.   This code will disable your AC compressor and cause your cooling fans to operate differently than if the AC were operating.  You will get higher temps with the AC off, than with it on because with the AC on the cooling fans run constantly whereas with the AC off, the cooling fans don't come on till 217 degrees.  The summer is almost over, but you should have your AC evacuated and recharged, have them add dye to make leaks easy to find. 

That said, next time you get a chance, idle your engine and watch your cooling fans, watch the temp they turn on and off at.  What year and model car do you have?  Does it have a digital or analog temp guage?  

While you don't have any codes for cooling fans indicating that they are operating correct electrically, if a motor is burned out it wont set a code.  I have seen motors that turn very weakly because the brushes, bearings or windings are bad.

Let us know if you find the source of your leak.  Look at the upper radiator hose that connects to the top of the radiator near the battery for pin holes and leaks at the clamp also

 

 

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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