jje1953 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 So I got the message that I was low on refrigerant and the compressor was shutting down to protect itself. (98 DeVille) Thought I could handle the re-charge myself, but perhaps not! The kit I am using says that I should connect my line (no problem there), start the car, turn the AC on full blast and begin charging. Problem is, the compressor will only run a few seconds, then shut off. The indicated pressure in the system varies greatly as the compressor shuts off and on in very short cycles. I had cleared all the codes before attempting, but to no avail. Is there something wrong with the compressor, or am I just doing this the wrong way? It almost appears I should attempt the re-charge with the car and system turned off, but that's not the way the kit says to do it. Is the "shut off" that the computer went through blocking my attempt to re-charge? Any clues appreciated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoupeDTS Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 You are doing it correctly, but if you charged it with a can of freon and the compressor still doesnt stay on for more than a couple seconds its possible the sensor is bad, thus you are charging a system that could already be charged. Buy a sensor and take it to someone that can capture the freon in the system, you change the sensor (very easy) then have them recharge it. Quote * 1966 Deville Convertible * 2007 Escalade ESV Black on Black * 1996 Fleetwood Brougham Black on Black V4P -Gone* 1983 Coupe Deville Street/Show Lowrider -Gone* 1970 Calais 4dr Hardtop GONE* 2000 Deville DTS - Silver with Black Leather and SE grille GONE* 1999 Seville STS - Pearl Red GONE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Some questions: Were you able to get a can of refrigerant into the system or is it not drawing it from the can? If it is not drawing it out of the can, there is an issue with the can tap. I used an R-134a can tap for many years and the seals went bad. I bought another tap and it does not work. I have to use my 30 pound cylinder of R-134a. If the system is pulling in the refrigerant from the can, the compressor operates for a few seconds and then shuts down, check to see if the low refrigerant code is set (current). If it is, you may have a large leak in the system that needs to be repaired. You will then need to use a vacuum pump to evacuate the system and then recharge 2.0 lbs. of refrigerant into the system that is under vacuum. Quote Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the gold2 Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 My only comment is that I have read on this forum that one can bypass the sensor that shuts off the compressor so that you can recharge it yourself. Don't rely on my comment. Do some research. Also be aware that sometimes ya need to add lubricant with the freon. again I am no refrigerant savvy person but if ya have lost alot, you ought to try to make sense of the situation before committing R-12 or whatever you use...but I guess ya already knowd that... good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jje1953 Posted June 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 My only comment is that I have read on this forum that one can bypass the sensor that shuts off the compressor so that you can recharge it yourself. Don't rely on my comment. Do some research. Also be aware that sometimes ya need to add lubricant with the freon. again I am no refrigerant savvy person but if ya have lost alot, you ought to try to make sense of the situation before committing R-12 or whatever you use...but I guess ya already knowd that... good luck ! As it turns out, I had a faulty low pressure sensor. Don't know the mechanics of the AC system. but apparently that was the issue. Took it into the mechanic and explained how I couldn't get the recharge done, and they came back and told me the problem was a faulty/leaky sensor. They replaced it and did the recharge and everything appears to be ok (knock on wood!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 Good news then, and I hope it stays fixed and the Cadillac blows cold as it should. Thanks for letting us know how you resolved the issue. Quote Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadcapt Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Hay Caddy OLtimer, I bought a new small can recharge hose also an it does not fit either, Any Ideas as to why? An can I find a new one to fit? Thanks, Be Safe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Hay Caddy OLtimer, I bought a new small can recharge hose also an it does not fit either, Any Ideas as to why? An can I find a new one to fit? Thanks, Be Safe What do you mean it won't fit? The hose connector won't attach to the vehicle port? If that is the case, make sure you have the low side fitting - there are two ports on the car. Sometimes, the valve sticks and will not allow the hose to be attached. Briefly depress the valve with a small punch to free it up and the hose should attach. Quote Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadcapt Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Correct will not lock over the flange, have cleaned the valve also. it is a plastic coupler on a can of leak detector. I have looked at the brass ones an they seem bigger. Will get one next time I am in town. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazed0417 Posted May 21, 2019 Report Share Posted May 21, 2019 On 6/23/2012 at 6:35 PM, the gold2 said: My only comment is that I have read on this forum that one can bypass the sensor that shuts off the compressor so that you can recharge it yourself. Don't rely on my comment. Do some research. Also be aware that sometimes ya need to add lubricant with the freon. again I am no refrigerant savvy person but if ya have lost alot, you ought to try to make sense of the situation before committing R-12 or whatever you use...but I guess ya already knowd that... good luck ! Yeah if the compressor is not running continuous during the charge then just disconnect the low side pressure switch connector and ground let's switch out using a paperclip and inserting it into the two holes on the low side pressure switch connector. That will cause the compressor to run continuously while you charge when you're done charging plug the switch plug back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazed0417 Posted May 21, 2019 Report Share Posted May 21, 2019 Also yes he is right sometimes you do have to add oil I generally do this if and when the orifice tube is being replaced. Make sure you buy the correct type of R134a freon that has oil infused with the freon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 21, 2019 Report Share Posted May 21, 2019 2 hours ago, Dazed0417 said: Yeah if the compressor is not running continuous during the charge then just disconnect the low side pressure switch connector and ground let's switch out using a paperclip and inserting it into the two holes on the low side pressure switch connector. That will cause the compressor to run continuously while you charge when you're done charging plug the switch plug back in. You are replying to a 2012 post. If the low refrigerant code is on the compressor wont run. Delete the code and the AC compressor will run. I would not advise jumping the low pressure switch. Quote Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazed0417 Posted May 21, 2019 Report Share Posted May 21, 2019 Unless you want to do it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted May 21, 2019 Report Share Posted May 21, 2019 3 hours ago, Dazed0417 said: Unless you want to do it right Deleting the code is the right way. Jumping the switch is the wrong way, review the factory service manual. In addition, oil is not needed unless a component is replaced, i.e. compressor, drier, etc, the oil is drained out of the component, measured and the same amount of oil added. Adding too much oil or adding oil willy nilly is not advised. cdgrinci 1 Quote Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.