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98 Eldorado


kcd1184

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Getting ready to go down to St Petersburg next Friday and bring back my 98 Eldo. I was wondering what the "Recommended maintenance performed" that is listed on the Carfax report eight times actually involved. I was mainly interested to find out if that included a coolant change with tabs. The Eldo was purchased and serviced at one dealership completely.(98-11) I called down and was talking to a manager and he started to give me a history but became busy and had to go. The radiator had been replaced in '09' and the air compressor in '08' was all he divulged before cutting me short.

I called back the next day to continue my maintenance history search but a different manager said that the info could not be given out over the phone BUT if I were to stop by the dealership and show proof of ownership they would show me the complete service records. The dealership is only a few miles from where my friends, who are keeping the Eldo, live. I am hopeful this turns out as a detailed history would be very useful.

I'll report on the trip home when I return.

Kent

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I would not count on coolant being changed by dealer unless they had to replace water pump, radiator etc.

As for getting maintenance records, I called the dealership I knew my Fleetwood was taken to for years by the previous owner, and they mailed me all the records they could find. It was very nice to know what was replaced on the car before me.

Make sure they write down YOUR name correctly, because they can automatically put the name they have in their system and the mail will not be delivered by USPS to you.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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If the owner had the car serviced at a dealer, they will not let any routine maintenance such as a coolant change slide by. That is revenue. I would think "Recommended maintenance" is what the owners manual calls for.

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I know a dealer that not only let the scheduled coolant change pass, but, instead, had the tech call me and tell me that I had to trade the car now because the head bolts were weak. Sure enough, two years later, I had a head gasket problem.

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-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I know a dealer that not only let the scheduled coolant change pass, but, instead, had the tech call me and tell me that I had to trade the car now because the head bolts were weak. Sure enough, two years later, I had a head gasket problem.

I am afraid most of dealers do not really care of coolant. I have checked my records one more time - no indication of coolant change in 14 years except one because of water pump replacement. This is not Dexcool, so if the dealer cared it should have been changed six-seven times.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Even though the 1995 model year probably came with green antifreeze, I would have the existing coolant checked for combustion products, just as a cheap data point, then have the system flushed (thermostat out, pump, tank, the whole bit) and refilled with 50-50 Dexcool.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Even though the 1995 model year probably came with green antifreeze, I would have the existing coolant checked for combustion products, just as a cheap data point, then have the system flushed (thermostat out, pump, tank, the whole bit) and refilled with 50-50 Dexcool.

How do you have it checked for combustion products, and how do I flush it myself? It is a '98' by the way.

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If it's a 1998, it came with red, i.e. DexCool. If it has green in it, someone put it in instead of red.

You can have the coolant tested for combustion products at any good radiator shop and many general purpose mechanic outfits, including chains like Pep Boys and Goodyear stores - but call ahead and ask first. Or, you can order a test kit and do it yourself.

You can flush the coolant yourself by draining it, taking out the thermostat, putting a garden hose (or a funnel for distilled water, see below) in the overflow tank, and, when it is full, cut the water down until the overflow is just barely running. Start the car, adjust the water to keep the overflow running just a little, and watch the drain until the water runs clear, then a few more minutes. Then shut it down and drain it as much as you can. Close the petcock, put the thermostat back in it, and add the sealant pellets (Bar's Leaks item #G12BP) to the radiator hose that connects to the right side of the radiator (looking from the rear). Then add pure DexCool to bring what you have to 50-50, adding a little water if necessary to fill the overflow tank to the "cold full" mark. You will need a coolant tester to tell when the coolant is 50-50. Run the engine for a minute or two and re-check the coolant to be sure that it is really 50-50. If it fills before you bring it to 50-50, drain a couple of quarts and keep adding pure DexCool. Note that in the unlikely event that it becomes more DexCool than 50-50, it's OK if it is less than 70-30. Do NOT use more than 70% DexCool.

The garden hose has the disadvantage of using tap water instead of distilled water in the coolant. This is anathema to many people, and I have never used that approach on an engine or radiator with any aluminum in it. You can do a good flush with a reasonable amount of distilled water, and it's only $0.50 a gallon at WalMart, so it's practical if you want to use distilled water with a funnel instead of using a garden hose. It's just a little more work. I would have at least 15 gallons on hand before I started. Your car holds 12.5 quarts of coolant, or just over three gallons.

I would use a new AC/Delco thermostat to put back in the car. The temperature rating for the Northstar thermostat is 180 degrees, and its a different type than that used in older cars, so make sure that you use the make and model, or the VIN number to get the right part at the dealer or parts store.

To me, a thermostat is one of those parts that, once seen, should be discarded instead of re-used. My criteria for throwaway parts are those that cost little compared to getting at them to look at or replace them, and are known to fail sometimes or wear more quickly than the rest of the engine.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Even though the 1995 model year probably came with green antifreeze, I would have the existing coolant checked for combustion products, just as a cheap data point, then have the system flushed (thermostat out, pump, tank, the whole bit) and refilled with 50-50 Dexcool.

Jim, I have already changed coolant three times. First time when I just bought it in September 2009, teh second time when I have replaced the inlet side tank, and the third time when I replaced expansion tank. Besides, according to the records, it was changed two years before I bought it. It is not a Northstar, it is 5.7 l Chevy LT1 engine, so I am not worried much about combustion products. Why Dexcool? Changing coolant once in two-three years is not a big deal for me.

Were you referring to 1998 Eldo??

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Even though the 1995 model year probably came with green antifreeze, I would have the existing coolant checked for combustion products, just as a cheap data point, then have the system flushed (thermostat out, pump, tank, the whole bit) and refilled with 50-50 Dexcool.

How do you have it checked for combustion products, and how do I flush it myself? It is a '98' by the way.

Kent, you can also borrow the block test kit from Autozone. Just pay for the test fluid, but unless you are overheating, there is no sense in it. The test will be negative.

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Even though the 1995 model year probably came with green antifreeze, I would have the existing coolant checked for combustion products, just as a cheap data point, then have the system flushed (thermostat out, pump, tank, the whole bit) and refilled with 50-50 Dexcool.

Jim, I have already changed coolant three times. First time when I just bought it in September 2009, teh second time when I have replaced the inlet side tank, and the third time when I replaced expansion tank. Besides, according to the records, it was changed two years before I bought it. It is not a Northstar, it is 5.7 l Chevy LT1 engine, so I am not worried much about combustion products. Why Dexcool? Changing coolant once in two-three years is not a big deal for me.

Were you referring to 1998 Eldo??

I was referring to the 1998 Eldorado belonging to kcd1184.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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All that is required is a drain and refill for the Northstar cooling system. Draining the system will not remove at least half of the coolant. Introduce flush water and now the system is over 50% water. It would be very difficult to get the concentration back to 50%.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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All that is required is a drain and refill for the Northstar cooling system. Draining the system will not remove at least half of the coolant. Introduce flush water and now the system is over 50% water. It would be very difficult to get the concentration back to 50%.

I am wandering whether it was that difficult to design an engine which might be drained 100%? It is particularly strange taking into account the importance of regular maintenance of Nothstar's cooling system, which has been stressed so many times.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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All that is required is a drain and refill for the Northstar cooling system. Draining the system will not remove at least half of the coolant. Introduce flush water and now the system is over 50% water. It would be very difficult to get the concentration back to 50%.

I am wandering whether it was that difficult to design an engine which might be drained 100%? It is particularly strange taking into account the importance of regular maintenance of Nothstar's cooling system, which has been stressed so many times.

There were block drains planned for the Northstar but they were deleted before the engine went to production. The funny part is the service manual was not updated. I remember changing the coolant for the first time in my '96 Seville and could not find them. I spoke to the guru and he told me they were deleted before the engine went to production.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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What I did back in the day to get the antifreeze to 50% was to bring it to full with pure antifreeze, run the car, test, and do an estimate about how much to drain and then top off again with 100% antifreeze. If someone could tell me exactly how much of the 12.5 quarts drains, I could do a calculation and tell you how much to drain. You could almost certainly get there if you start with two gallons of DexCool.

The point of the flush is to get out the green if someone has done that to your car.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Getting ready to fly down to St Petersburg at 9:30am this morning and see our friends and pick up my newly purchased (Oct) 98 Eldorado which I haven't seen in person yet. Heavy snows predicted to start around then.(Good for us) St. Petersburg forecast for our stay till Tuesday is high 70's and sunny.

(good for everyone) There is a window of good weather for the trip home through Atlanta, Nashville, and southern Illinois on Tuesday and Wednesday.(for now at least)

Should be a good test run.I will post when I return.

Kent

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Have a safe trip!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Short and sour.

Car is beautiful inside and out. Started hard every time. Had to use gas peddle. Went to get oil,a quart low and air up tires and thecharge said 14.3. Came back to friends house,smelled oil and just thought it was 3month sitting burn off, and visited for 2 hours. Noticed some drips on the driveway(oil) Went to leave and battery was dead. Jumped it and decided to get to hotel and register and now read out was from 13.3 to 11.9. Made it.Seemed to level off at 13.1. Still not good.Going to try and start car now and then find a place to check battery and charge system. I can deal with that although alternator is a pain in the ... I t was supposed to be a new one, brand new.

Any how my MAIN concern is the oil leak. I need to know what to look for and if it is the main seal or what ever that is that they have a history for how will it hold up to a 1000 mile trip home. The car runs great otherwise. The oil smell and drip, I don't know how rapid it is,yet, a concern. I will try to get codes and am going to tackle the battery charging problem.

Hey, I knew I was rolling the dice. I just have to deal with it and get the Eldo home .

Advice is needed.

Thanks Kent

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I'm assuming that you just bought this vehicle. The very first thing that I would do is get the battery checked and replace it if it is the LEAST bit questionable. A marginal battery in these vehicles will give the computers all kinds of headaches!

The best battery is the Delco, which is original equipment. If unable to find one, my next choice would be to go to Sam's Club and get one of their Energizer batteries.

NOTE: As these batteries are located under the rear seat, the battery HAS to be the manifold vented kind. Do not let anyone convince you otherwise.

As for the oil leak, the early Northstars were notorious for seeping oil. My 94 Seville SLS had that malady. The proper fix is to have the engine removed and the lower crank case resealed. The cost of this "fix" could easily exceed what you paid for the car.

What I did was switch to Pennzoil High Mileage 10w30 oil. While it did not "cure" the leak, it reduced the amount substantially. My SLS went from leaving small puddles to a few drips. I always kept a sheet of cardboard in the garage to catch the drips.

My '94 SLS was the most comfortable car that I have ever owned. It was more comfortable than the 2003 SLS that I have now.

Good Luck with your new car. If it rides anything like my '94 SLS, you will enjoy it.

Britt
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I merged your 98 Caddy Florida pick up threads into one thread so that the history is known to everyone. I think there is one more thread on this someplace. These threads are all related.

Sorry to hear about the issues, its a shame your friends could not have had this car checked out before you got there

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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