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Engine overheats and heater blows cold air


sprinter10

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Thank you for posting that cooling system diagram. I might get that blown up and printed/laminated to have in the garage when Im working on the car looks like it would be a good reference for a new guy like me without having my laptop with me in the garage.

It was an adapster hooked to the coolant preashure tester with a pump and gauge on it broken down into different preashure variables

It held for over 20 minutes before the car was running at 11psi no leaks.

The engine temp was only at half way when we shut the car off at that time and fans cycled a few times the car was running for a total of 50 minutes I beleive iw what the timer in the car says.

The guy just called me saying he fixed over 17,000 of these over the last few years and most not even being able to make it around the block without it leaking. I have one of the smallest cases he has seen yet of it. It is a money back if it doesn't work garentee or a nother kit to try again. This guy knew quiet a bit about these engines explaining why things are the way they are and why you must run the original thermostate because of what it does and its different stages He did not talk in some sort of micacle saying how it works he really explains himself in every way he could. I will be taking the chance of seeing if it will work or not and if it doesn't ask for my money back. Still worth the try to save time and money even if its just a temporary fix for a little bit to get it through till the summer when I have more money.

THE QUICK FIX WILL NOT WORK! YOU WILL WASTE YOUR MONEY. You have good people here that are just trying to help you. Just listen and learn.

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Go back and read post #16, that was copied and pasted from a site about Northstar engine headgaskets. Pay particular attention to the part about the headbolts pull and sealer and fixs in a bottle will only MAKE MORE HEADACHES! Once again I ask you to listen to the people on this board they have been there and done that, Don't learn the hard way and waste money and time.If it did work, how long would it last? Do you want to keep the car? Would you rely on it? Do you want something that hardens strong enough to withstand the compression in a Northstar headgasket flowing thru your new radiator?

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how much is a quality do iy yourself timesert/head gasket job gonna cost?

with a starter replacement,main seal,oil pan seal?

someone said the starters suck to change on these and to do it when the engine is out.

It was funny that my friend that owns the shop that did the preashure test on the engine today was working on a 1998 Cadillac STS so he had 2 of the same cars just different years at the same time in his garage. That one had a large amount of front end damage due to texting while driving. The alunimum front umper was kinked ack through everything.

SOMEONE SAID

When SOMEONE SAYS something do you just BELIEVE IT?

Why do you make statements like that?, THE STARTERS SUCK?

The starter on these engines is located under the intake manifold, they are no longer subject to heat like the old starters that had an exhaust pipe wrapping around it. The starter RARELY goes bad on these cars, and if it ever does, it was due for replacement. As far as the mechanics that say they are hard to replace, that is another BS URBAN LEGEND so that they can charge people like you who believe that BS more, changing a starter on these cars for a relatively intelligent DIY mechanic is a CAKE WALK.

Before you make such ERRONEOUS statements on this ENTHUSIASTS CADILLAC BOARD, ask a probing question like, "if the engine is rebuilt should the starter be replaced?", or "I hear they are hard to replace" or "are the starters on these cars problematic?" Making a statement like THE STARTERS SUCK, like it is GOSPEL is NIEVE and shows your inexperience. Stop making statements like they are GOSPEL.

Now the timesert question, my estimate is that it costs about $1000 to timesert a Northstar, that includes the inserts (not the timesert kit), master seal kit, main bearings, rod bearings, etc. The problem is that doing the timesert job requires above average mechanical ability, a very good tool set, it requires a methodical, detailed and organized style and an understanding of drilling, tapping, torquing and the factory service manual. It also requires patience, an area to work, an engine lift. Not everyone can do it. The other problem is, if you can not do it, you need to find a mechanic with those skills that has done this job, that does not have negative preconceptions about this engine, something this is impossible to find.

My advice for you, since you are so negative about the Northstar all of the time, is to junk that car and find a Honda, wind it up, and drive it into the ground, or find a low mileage Northstar 2004 or newer.

I do not advise that YOU do a timesert job at all, someone that can not remove a hose clamp to look at the "bolt with a hole in it" would be over his head doing that job. It would be a disaster, we have seen it before

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Go back and read post #16, that was copied and pasted from a site about Northstar engine headgaskets. Pay particular attention to the part about the headbolts pull and sealer and fixs in a bottle will only MAKE MORE HEADACHES! Once again I ask you to listen to the people on this board they have been there and done that, Don't learn the hard way and waste money and time.If it did work, how long would it last? Do you want to keep the car? Would you rely on it? Do you want something that hardens strong enough to withstand the compression in a Northstar headgasket flowing thru your new radiator?

Pete, that was a very informative post by you (#16), I just re-read it.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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The "Someone" who said the starters "sucked to change" on these engines did not know what he was talking about - period... The intake manifold can be removed in sbout 30 minutes all while standing up, not laying on a creeper with dirt/rust, etc. falling in your eyes. I timed myself when I repaired my STS almost 5 years ago.

The location of the starter keeps it clean cool and dry, unlike next to a hot exhaust manifold. There is no reason to change it unless there is a problem with it. A crappy auto store starter will likely fail before the existing OEM starter would fail. When I repaired my car, I took the starter and alternator to my local rebuilder and had them check both.

Leave the snake oil sealer on the shelf. It will not fix the problem and may cause other issues.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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These are very smart mechanics owning shops and racing 410 sprint cars and much more where they uild there own 850 hp motor do not be dissing them. Ok the guy got this car thinking that it was like one he did a while ago said it was hidden on the other side of the motor. I don't know any better and did not reaserch it myself nor did I care I just brought it up and would be able to reaserch more before I actually did the project. I have had starters go at the worst times on my dads gmc pickup twice and my moms van and I know they are always at the worst times like when you are trying to head up to the race track and are scrambling to borrow a truck.

As for garage I have an engine hoist, 40x40 ft garage with a car lift bolted into the flore. I have a neigor /my racing crew chief/ ex gm mechanic of about 15 years ago who has a milling machine, metal lathe and sets of right and left hand taps we use to make out own radius rods and other alunimum parts for our race cars that go 130mph+ I am surrounded by knolegeable people and know about mechanics/can study and understand a lot.

I am just not very knowledgeable about cadillacs and these northstar motors.

THe mechanics I am talking to are in no way trying to scare me out of doing anything myself and do not want to make money from me. Its hard to judge a person through there text online and I really would appreciate it if you guys would not jump to things. I did not plan out enough when I went to do the bolt with the whole in it doing it in the dark, at 8:30 when I was leaving my dads at 9:00 and was not ready to catch the colant and was not going ot just let it run on the ground so at that time I just put it back together. I went and drove 45 minutes to get the car further diagnosed and confermed it was a head gasket.

As for wanting to keep this car.

YES I really like this car and want it to last and I was just asking people opinions on stuff I knew I was more then likely going ot be doing the timesert job eventually anyway.

I would love to fix this car right and keep it for years until I upgrade to another cadi.

I had it in mind to eventually become as helpful as you guys are on the board and become a supporting member. With the assumtions that I should just give up and ut a honda it gets discouraging and doesn't really help much.

A simple no it will hirt you in the future if you don't do it right and this is what I sugest you do + this is what the job will entail.

Ok so you estimate it around $1,000 for a diy job?

Would there be other things you would suggest to replace like the engine front subframe big rubber bushings, etc?

163159_480213159241_637739241_5658312_70296_n.jpg

outside of garage

63215_480211954241_637739241_5658280_7547583_n.jpg

Doing eghaust on fathers audi on the lift

163014_480212814241_637739241_5658304_8061226_n.jpg

cadillac doing the radiator

148281_480212139241_637739241_5658285_1880596_n.jpg

Friends 305 sprinter

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If you have that kind of support have a go at it. We will help any way we can, we have members who have done the job that can be very helpful

When you are ready start a new thread

I would just recommend, inspecting and replacing things as needed you see worn along the way, like

heater pipes

engine mounts

HVAC cover

others will chime in, good luck if you decide to do this

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Thanks yea I already was looking around a little and saw that I would want to replace the heater pipes and the front steel brake lines are pretty rusted and look kinda scarry. I would deff want to look everything over and study the most I can before I go ahead and attack the project.

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A nother 45 minute ride including a few miles on the highway doing 70 and no temp increase at all so it must e in the early stages and I think I will be fine going back and forth to school and short distances and get through the winter.

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A starter and solenoid change on a Northstar is an afternoon in the driveway. The steps are:

  • Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  • Remove the beauty cover over the intake manifold.
  • Disconnect the fuel lines; be careful to catch the pressurized fuel in a jar and put a lid on it.
  • Disconnect the fuel injector and MAp sensor wiring harness.
  • Remove the intake manifold with fuel injectors, fuel rails, and sensors still installed. Be careful of the gaskets, they are re-usable.
  • Disconnect the starter solenoid actuation and battery cable to the solenoid.
  • Remove the starter bolts, then the starter.

To install, reverse the steps. I could give more detail by referring to my factory shop manual (FSM).

Note that there is no jacking up the car, backing off of the exhaust flange bolts or removal of exhaust plumbing, no reaching up around the bell housing, and the electrical connections are there in plain sight. The hardest thing you have to do is lean over.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thats awsome to know a lot easier then my dads truck was.

I am getting this manual on cd then going to print out each section that I need and put it in a 3 ring binder I did this with 2 atv's and loved how easy it was to find stuff then when you printed it out you don't car to have just the page you need with the torque specifications or whatever under the car with you and don't care if it gets destroyed with oil or grease.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cadillac-STS-Service-Repair-Manual-1998-1999-2000-00-01-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem33635f4de5QQitemZ220710522341QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

It sais it is the

"General Motors OEM Factory Service Repair Manual"

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If those are actual pages from the manual for a Northstar Cadillac, that is a generic manaul... I can see that by the statement

Loosen the waterpump pulley bolts

The Northstar does not have pulley bolts and the photos are not of a Northstar

I think you are wasting your money, go to ebay and find a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, its the only way to go

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Yeah, if those "sample excerpts" are supposed to be actual samples from THAT manual, they are WAY off just by judging from those pictures. I'd follow BBF's advice and look for a FSM by Helm Inc.

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I looked at his listings and they show all the same pages for all the GM manuals. That's a time saver; this guy has about 1,000 CD varieties up for sale, typically 10 per CD, and the examples are representative, so that doesn't bother me. I'm selling off several generations of photo gear on eBay and the amount of work to put up a custom posting on each piece is daunting, from a couple of hours for just good photos and an informative blurb, to a day or more if you want videos, which are necessary for a couple of Canon A-1 cameras, one with a motor and one with a winder, to show proper operation and provide audio. I can understand why this isn't possible for this guy.

I am wondering where he gets them and what the copyright status is. The usual GM manual is to combine cars on the same platform or nearly identical platform, like the STS/Deville for 1998-1999 or the Eldorado/Seville/Deville 1992-1997, and I don't see that in his CDs. Perhaps that's the way the GM CDs are organized, and he has bought some and is making narrower manuals out of the GM material.

Another thing that strikes me is that his feedback score is 98, meaning that he has about 200 sales on eBay in recent months or years, but he has over 1,000 offerings. This guy has just popped up on eBay with 1K++ CDs of GM manuals. I would ask him about where he got the material and what its copyright status is. If he bought it from GM and has permission to use it the way he is, then, by all means, get one. They are only $20 each plus shipping.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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i have just started getting a message saying service theft system.

I saw it apear wed. with my reacurring suvice suspension system that I have always had, On my way to school.

later that day leaving school it was not present and didn't come back until today.

So when I got home from picking up oil and filter for the audi I ran the codes.

I never cleared the codes on this car and this was the list from the first time I ran the codes.

To the left is the old codes and to the right is the new codes I am getting now.

No ABS

No AMP

No DDM

No Dim

IPC U1016 History

No IPM

IRC U1016 History

MSM B1820 History

MSM B1845 History

MSM B1860 History

MSM B1875 History

PCM P0650 Current (Did not come up current this time? Engine light still does not come on durring start up.)

No RFA

RIM U1255 History

Rss C0592 History

RSS C0594 Current (Still there)

Rss V1016 History

No SDM

TTM V1016 History

VTD B1009 History (Current)

VTD B2734 History (Current)

What do the B1009 and B27343 stand for and why would they be an on and off random there and not? I will try to search them myself and thanks in advance.

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1. The (P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit) is no longer throwing a current code but engine light still does not light up when ignition is turned on or engine is first started.

2. Ive always had the (C0594 - Right Rear Solenoid Circuit Open) Does this require a new strut? or a new sensor?

3. the B1009 is (B1009 - EEPROM Checksum Error) I have no clue what that means I will search that next.

4. The B2734 is the one tripping the theft sensor (B2734 - Coded Key Controller Memory Failure)

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  • 2 weeks later...

while planning the head gasket job and starting to get parts together I am still driving the cadillac and am getting better and better responses out of it. Drove it up the highway to pa fully loaded with 5 people including me (Same road the first overheating issue was on) Temp gauge did not move past 12 until it ticked up one click going off exit in pa then jumped back down. I then today took it 60 miles non stop on the highway to new york city never went over 12:00. Leaving there was a Very long hill that I hit with a full load of people at 62 and accelerated up to 58 for miles and in overdrive really was on the gas pretty far for a long time just reaching the top it went up one click past 12:00 then drove 45 minutes home without going over 12:00 I guess I am lucky that it is still drivable in the early stages of the hg but in no way am going to put off doing the job after all this snow melts and I am done rebuilding the race car.

Just got the frame back and have car shows in less then a month and racing starting end of March.

162681_484953234241_637739241_5726846_7581937_n.jpg

Frame at the paint shop

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