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Carla, PCMs do go south. I would make sure it is grounded properly first. Measure the voltage between the PCM and battery negative. Should not be more than 0.5 V. Before spending ANY money on not vital items like shocks etc, I would make sure the powertarin is fine.

Can I use a normal ohm/voltage meter to check that? And should I check it with the car running, key on only, or off completely?

Considering it's looking like I will have to spend at least 600$ or so for the shock replacement, I don't think I will be doing that right away anyhow. Suspension isn't nearly as important as the other things that need tending to.

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Carla, PCMs do go south. I would make sure it is grounded properly first. Measure the voltage between the PCM and battery negative. Should not be more than 0.5 V. Before spending ANY money on not vital items like shocks etc, I would make sure the powertarin is fine.

Can I use a normal ohm/voltage meter to check that? And should I check it with the car running, key on only, or off completely?

1. Any voltage meter will work.

"And should I check it with the car running, key on only, or off completely?"

It does not matter.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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GM Techlink has a page on Dextron VI, and the grabber graphic shows a gallon jug of Dextron VI:

Just this once, I would take off the pan and make sure that the last service put everything back OK. And, make sure that the oil level sensor is OK.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Carla, PCMs do go south. I would make sure it is grounded properly first. Measure the voltage between the PCM and battery negative. Should not be more than 0.5 V. Before spending ANY money on not vital items like shocks etc, I would make sure the powertarin is fine.

Can I use a normal ohm/voltage meter to check that? And should I check it with the car running, key on only, or off completely?

Considering it's looking like I will have to spend at least 600$ or so for the shock replacement, I don't think I will be doing that right away anyhow. Suspension isn't nearly as important as the other things that need tending to.

I installed Arnott rear shocks on my '96 Seville about a year and a half ago. They were identical to the factory shocks as far as the level ride system. They just did not have the unreliable electronic valving. They have a lifetime warranty and have resistors that orevent the SERVICE RIDE CONTROL message from being displayed. I think they were $250.00 for the pair and have a lifetime warranty.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I priced new shocks today. To redo the factory setup with a compressor will cost me roughly 800$ and that's getting a rebuilt compressor instead of new and after-market air shocks. The OEM shocks are over 900$ each and that just isn't something I could afford right now.

I also found a conversion kit with resistors and coil springs for 300$, lifetime warranty, which is a little closer to my budget.

Regardless of the route I go with the shocks, I won't be doing it for a while. I have other things to tend to first.

While looking up prices for the Dexron VI fluid, I noticed that there are a lot of brands that make it. Is there a specific brand that anyone recommends? They are all about the same price. The trans pan gaskets are 20$ for a fel-pro gasket or 40$ for an OEM AC Delco gasket. Is there any difference between the two? I couldn't tell from the pictures I saw, they both looked the same to me. I figure servicing the transmission is going to cost me a little over 100$, which isn't too bad.

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I would forego servicing the transmission until I had the engine done, including the ignition and assurance that the MAP sensor was behind us. Beyond that, I would suggest that you take the lowest bidder among GM-compliant vendors.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I would forego servicing the transmission until I had the engine done, including the ignition and assurance that the MAP sensor was behind us. Beyond that, I would suggest that you take the lowest bidder among GM-compliant vendors.

Well so far it has had about 250 miles put on it since changing the MAP sensor, and no problems AT ALL!yupi3ti.gif In fact, it's running better than it ever has. It actually has an audible tone to it now when I hit the gas pedal, and it's running smooth as can be. Before, it ran good, but I didn't realize how much power it was really missing because of the bad MAP sensor until I changed it. It's like driving a completely different (and better) car now. Being that it's had a few miles on the new sensor with no issues at all, I think it's safe to say that those problems are behind us.

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I look and my rear shocks are flat....yippee! That would explain why it felt like it was riding on bricks. I put air in them and by the time I got home they were flat again. I checked all the air lines and couldn't find a leak so I'm thinking it's the air bags on the shocks. The compressor was bypassed with an air fitting before I got the car because it stopped working.

I've got 2 ideas bouncing around in my head to fix it. One would be to get regular after market shocks (not air ones) and use those, but I need to find a set rated for the weight of my car and all.

The other would be to get a new compressor and new air shocks just like the ones that came in it stock.

I'd want to troubleshoot the system myself before giving up on it. Are you certain the compressor is bad? Could just be a bad connection, or a problem with the rear height sensor. And the bags on the shocks are pretty tough. Not to say that they don't go bad, but a problem with the air lines is more likely. Pretty sure there are o-rings to check. Maybe you can get it all going again without spending alot of money. If you can, air it up and get under it with a spray bottle full of soapy water. Spray the lines and look for bubbles.

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I look and my rear shocks are flat....yippee! That would explain why it felt like it was riding on bricks. I put air in them and by the time I got home they were flat again. I checked all the air lines and couldn't find a leak so I'm thinking it's the air bags on the shocks. The compressor was bypassed with an air fitting before I got the car because it stopped working.

I've got 2 ideas bouncing around in my head to fix it. One would be to get regular after market shocks (not air ones) and use those, but I need to find a set rated for the weight of my car and all.

The other would be to get a new compressor and new air shocks just like the ones that came in it stock.

I'd want to troubleshoot the system myself before giving up on it. Are you certain the compressor is bad? Could just be a bad connection, or a problem with the rear height sensor. And the bags on the shocks are pretty tough. Not to say that they don't go bad, but a problem with the air lines is more likely. Pretty sure there are o-rings to check. Maybe you can get it all going again without spending alot of money. If you can, air it up and get under it with a spray bottle full of soapy water. Spray the lines and look for bubbles.

The spray bottle routine is exactly what I did to determine that it is almost definitely not the air lines. I couldn't get to the air bags very well, but they do look like they have some dry-cracks in them which is why I think they are the problem.

The compressor is completely disconnected. I was told it wasn't working which is why the previous owner had a manual fill valve hooked to the shocks with brand new air lines. When the weather warms up a bit I want to hook the compressor up and see if it does work or not. If it does, or can at least be fixed, then that will save me a bit of money.

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While looking up prices for the Dexron VI fluid, I noticed that there are a lot of brands that make it. Is there a specific brand that anyone recommends? They are all about the same price. The trans pan gaskets are 20$ for a fel-pro gasket or 40$ for an OEM AC Delco gasket. Is there any difference between the two? I couldn't tell from the pictures I saw, they both looked the same to me. I figure servicing the transmission is going to cost me a little over 100$, which isn't too bad.

If the Fel-pro gasket has the metal bushings in each hole, it should work just fine. The pan gasket must have the metal bushings. Fel-pro may even be the OEM supplier of the gasket.

As far as the trans fluid goes, there are very few suppliers of trans. fluid to the car plants. It is likely all brands of Dexron are produced by the same source. Get the least expensive brand.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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My rear shocks are original, and my car is only three years later than yours. I have 145,000 miles on my 1997 ETC and have the original shocks and struts. No codes, ride and handling are fine, load leveling works.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I've haven't checked in for over a week so I have reviewed some posts. I apologize if I rehash what's already been said.

As far as changing the PROM (if it's even available) to eliminate the P039 torque converter code, you can pretty much save your money and forget about it. Changing the PROM will only mask the problem which is likely a defective Torque Converter Solenoid, which prevents proper lock-up of the converter so there is slippage. The engine rpms and transaxle turbine speed don't match (can only be off by a maximum of 48 rpms) and after about 4 seconds the P039 code will set. The PROM will only increase tolerance for slippage so the code won't set. The problem is that chances are the slippage will eventually (if not immediately) exceed even the new PROM tolerance and so the code will continue to set. If the PROM was itself the fix, then it would be a no-brainer to spend the money to permanently fix the problem.

As far as the suspension compressor, if the S038 (Electronic Level Control Exhaust Valve Short to Ground/Open) code is set, it means the compressor needs to be replaced. As far as aftermarket shocks, Arnott and Suncore are two to consider. Also, ebay from time to time has someone selling OEM shocks for a few hundred less than dealer prices. I was considering buying aftermarket for my '94 Eldorado but the shocks did not seem to be worn out as the old bounce test didn't indicate an obvious problem. The base '94 Eldorado suspension is not very tight so it can mislead one to think the shocks are bad. My '05 STS, which has stiff suspension, is a totally different car compared to my former '94 Eldorado. The Eldorado actually has more of a smooth less stiff luxury-like ride.

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I've haven't checked in for over a week so I have reviewed some posts. I apologize if I rehash what's already been said.

As far as changing the PROM (if it's even available) to eliminate the P039 torque converter code, you can pretty much save your money and forget about it. Changing the PROM will only mask the problem which is likely a defective Torque Converter Solenoid, which prevents proper lock-up of the converter so there is slippage. The engine rpms and transaxle turbine speed don't match (can only be off by a maximum of 48 rpms) and after about 4 seconds the P039 code will set. The PROM will only increase tolerance for slippage so the code won't set. The problem is that chances are the slippage will eventually (if not immediately) exceed even the new PROM tolerance and so the code will continue to set. If the PROM was itself the fix, then it would be a no-brainer to spend the money to permanently fix the problem.

As far as the suspension compressor, if the S038 (Electronic Level Control Exhaust Valve Short to Ground/Open) code is set, it means the compressor needs to be replaced. As far as aftermarket shocks, Arnott and Suncore are two to consider. Also, ebay from time to time has someone selling OEM shocks for a few hundred less than dealer prices. I was considering buying aftermarket for my '94 Eldorado but the shocks did not seem to be worn out as the old bounce test didn't indicate an obvious problem. The base '94 Eldorado suspension is not very tight so it can mislead one to think the shocks are bad. My '05 STS, which has stiff suspension, is a totally different car compared to my former '94 Eldorado. The Eldorado actually has more of a smooth less stiff luxury-like ride.

I appreciate your input. I have tried to run DTC's for the suspension, but I just keep getting the "NO RSS DATA" message when I do. I'm not sure why there isn't any data for it. I never noticed the message before when running codes prior to my other engine problems, but it may have been there and I missed it. I am a little absent-minded sometimes. If it has always been there, then my guess would be the prior owner disconnected whatever it is that relays RSS data to the PCM/IPC in an attempt to get rid of the "SERVICE RIDE CONTROL" message on the DIC. If so, that attempt failed because the message has been there as long as I have had the car. I have simply learned to ignore it because I knew the compressor had been bypassed and disconnected, and I attributed the message to that.

As far as knowing the shocks are bad, I'm about 100% sure that they are. As said before, the air bags appear to have dry rotted cracks in them, and they won't hold air for more than a few minutes. I have already checked the lines (which are brand new) and found no problems there.

I'm working on getting a service manual for my car now, and when I do I am going to look through the wiring diagrams and see what I need to reconnect in order to get the compressor to work again. If it doesn't work, then I will look into replacing it. It's still a toss up between replacing everything with OEM suspension parts or getting a conversion kit for it.

My P039 code for the TCC only seems to be setting intermittently now. The car has been driven by my boyfriend back and forth to work every day this last week. It's a 40 minute drive, one way, all highway at about 60-65 mph, and he said the SES light only came on during 4 out of 10 trips. It always sets when I drive it, so I guess I drive differently than he does. The gas mileage also doesn't seem to be hurting at all. It's getting about 25 mpg highway, whereas before changing the MAP sensor I was lucky to get 20.

I am still going to service the transmission to see if it makes a difference at all. The fluid looks fine, but I'm going to change it anyway. I guess this goes back to my "I don't trust anyone to work on my car but me" way of thinking because I don't know what the last person who serviced it did. As the saying goes, if you want something done right, do it yourself. Or at least know exactly what is being done to it.

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I'm impressed that you've managed to pass 350 posts since the 10th of January this year Carla. :hatsoff:

I like this forum a lot, and all the people on it that I have come across so far. It's nice to talk to level-headed people on here instead of the idiots I am so often surrounded by here in my town.

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I'm impressed that you've managed to pass 350 posts since the 10th of January this year Carla. :hatsoff:

I like this forum a lot, and all the people on it that I have come across so far. It's nice to talk to level-headed people on here instead of the idiots I am so often surrounded by here in my town.

Please do not tell to those idiots about this forum! :D

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I'm impressed that you've managed to pass 350 posts since the 10th of January this year Carla. :hatsoff:

I like this forum a lot, and all the people on it that I have come across so far. It's nice to talk to level-headed people on here instead of the idiots I am so often surrounded by here in my town.

Please do not tell to those idiots about this forum! :D

No worries. Those idiots aren't smart enough to own or drive a Cadillac anyway.

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I believe that it takes a certain equanimity, level of maturity and judgment, persistence, and intelligence to keep an older car in really good condition and drive it every day and put a lot of miles on it. You can see a couple of things about Caddyinfo that distinguish it among forums:

  • Gentlemanly, helpful tone in *all* posts.
  • A very high success rate in solving problems, even from visitors.

Another point is that a 4,000 pound car with 300 hp and an automatic transmission was once a 12 mpg muscle car; in those days, it was "good gas mileage, good throttle response, clean emissions -- pick any two" but with tuned port DFI with wideband oxygen sensors, MAP/MAF/TPS and other inputs, you can have all three.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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I believe that it takes a certain equanimity, level of maturity and judgment, persistence, and intelligence to keep an older car in really good condition and drive it every day and put a lot of miles on it. You can see a couple of things about Caddyinfo that distinguish it among forums:

  • Gentlemanly, helpful tone in *all* posts.
  • A very high success rate in solving problems, even from visitors.

Another point is that a 4,000 pound car with 300 hp and an automatic transmission was once a 12 mpg muscle car; in those days, it was "good gas mileage, good throttle response, clean emissions -- pick any two" but with tuned port DFI with wideband oxygen sensors, MAP/MAF/TPS and other inputs, you can have all three.

Wouldn't it be SPFI, not DFI? It's my understanding that DFI is used in diesel engines where the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder, rather than through an intake valve. Are there gas engines as well that have DFI? Or aren't they all ported through intake valves?

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I believe that it takes a certain equanimity, level of maturity and judgment, persistence, and intelligence to keep an older car in really good condition and drive it every day and put a lot of miles on it. You can see a couple of things about Caddyinfo that distinguish it among forums:

  • Gentlemanly, helpful tone in *all* posts.
  • A very high success rate in solving problems, even from visitors.

Another point is that a 4,000 pound car with 300 hp and an automatic transmission was once a 12 mpg muscle car; in those days, it was "good gas mileage, good throttle response, clean emissions -- pick any two" but with tuned port DFI with wideband oxygen sensors, MAP/MAF/TPS and other inputs, you can have all three.

Wouldn't it be SPFI, not DFI? It's my understanding that DFI is used in diesel engines where the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder, rather than through an intake valve. Are there gas engines as well that have DFI? Or aren't they all ported through intake valves?

DFI stood for "Digital Fuel Injection" in the early 80s when the HT-4100 engine came out. Direct injection is usually abbreviated "DI"

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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I believe that it takes a certain equanimity, level of maturity and judgment, persistence, and intelligence to keep an older car in really good condition and drive it every day and put a lot of miles on it. You can see a couple of things about Caddyinfo that distinguish it among forums:

  • Gentlemanly, helpful tone in *all* posts.
  • A very high success rate in solving problems, even from visitors.

Another point is that a 4,000 pound car with 300 hp and an automatic transmission was once a 12 mpg muscle car; in those days, it was "good gas mileage, good throttle response, clean emissions -- pick any two" but with tuned port DFI with wideband oxygen sensors, MAP/MAF/TPS and other inputs, you can have all three.

Wouldn't it be SPFI, not DFI? It's my understanding that DFI is used in diesel engines where the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder, rather than through an intake valve. Are there gas engines as well that have DFI? Or aren't they all ported through intake valves?

DFI stood for "Digital Fuel Injection" in the early 80s when the HT-4100 engine came out. Direct injection is usually abbreviated "DI"

Ah. Ok. I thought DFI was Direct Fuel Injection, not digital. Thanks for clearing that up. I had my abbreviations wrong.

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I just wanted to post an update to this. I have not yet done anything with the rear suspension. I also have not serviced the transmission yet as I am still waiting for my brother to get his truck done so I can use the pit in his garage. I do however have some good news (I think). I last reset the "CHANGE TRANS FLUID" message on Feb 10th, and it has not come back since. I also have not had the SES light for the P039 code show up since last Saturday.

I'm a little confused as to why this is. I have done nothing more than add fluid to it a couple weeks ago.

I do still intend to service the trans as soon as I can.

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