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Urgent Help!...


acklac7

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Pulled her into the garage, turned the key to the "lock" position..TOOK THE KEY OUT...And the engine is still running! For the live of me I cant get it to shut off. Im betting the PCM is fried but for the time being I just need to get the engine to quit running :huh:. I was thinking about maybe taking the air intake off and forcibly closing the throttle plate so it would stall??? Any other suggestions? (other then letting it run out of gas)

A.J.

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There is a 12v power connection at the coils, disconnect it, the engine should die

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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WOW - I typically don't agree with those postings labeled "URGENT PLEASE HELP", but this time I make an exception. other than a stuck accelerator pedal I can't think of many mechanical issues that should be labeled "URGENT"

Never heard of a caddy not turning off and I'll leave the many stuck accelerator pedals to the Toyota boards :)

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WOW - I typically don't agree with those postings labeled "URGENT PLEASE HELP", but this time I make an exception. other than a stuck accelerator pedal I can't think of many mechanical issues that should be labeled "URGENT"

Never heard of a caddy not turning off and I'll leave the many stuck accelerator pedals to the Toyota boards :)

There is an actuator inside the steering column which transfers the movement of the ignition key to the ignition switch down the column. I am pretty sure it's broke. Mine did.

Acklac7,

You should have noticed unusual ignition key behavior lately. The actuator fails gradually, so for a while you are still able to turn the ignition ON and OFF. I have bypassed that part (and the key) with a 24" piece of 1/8" steel rod bought at SEARS hardware store. Never let me down in seven years.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Dang! Everyone else posts on here trying to figure out how to keep thier caddy running. Then you come along trying to figure out the opposite! :o

:lol: :lol: :lol:

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Acklac7,

You got lucky by getting the proper response from BBF and then following it to the letter.

I realize you noted removing the air intake and forcing the throttle body shut. That, (or simply blocking the inlet with a solid plate), should have worked, but may have been more interesting.

However, if you had decided to remove the engine cover on an older model Northstar (which would take a bit longer), do you realize the engine would run wide open uncontrolled and probably self-destructed? This also the reason to never have any potential for ignition with that intake cover off as well.

Good luck, (more actually)

Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning.
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Another easy way (if there is an easy access) to shut the engine off is pressing the EGR valve with fingers. Worked on cold engine, never tried on hot one.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Dang! Everyone else posts on here trying to figure out how to keep thier caddy running. Then you come along trying to figure out the opposite! :o

LOL, you read my mind.

Before posting I was like "man this HAS to be a first for the board: how to get your caddy to quit running" :lol:

Problem still persists intermittently: happened today 2/6 times I went to shut her off.

And I have been having some starting issues for a while now adallak, here's the thread http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...c=16726&hl= (things are pretty much still the same, figured i'd update it once the problem "forced my hand" so to speak)

The problem im having now is like really....strange. Like the starter/PCM wont recognize the ignition position or something. Like while the engine is running I can turn the key to "start" and get nada...nothing. Typically you should get that nasty grinding noise when the starter contacts the moving flywheel (or something like that..im sure you guys can correct me :lol::P:lol: ) but I get nothing..no response....Man I hope it's nothing related to the steering column :huh:

A.J.

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A few other things could kill an engine, pulling the injector fuses, and pulling the fuel pump fuse (unless there is an oil pump back up switch actuated by pressure).

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Dang! Everyone else posts on here trying to figure out how to keep thier caddy running. Then you come along trying to figure out the opposite! :o

Like while the engine is running I can turn the key to "start" and get nada...nothing. Typically you should get that nasty grinding noise when the starter contacts the moving flywheel (or something like that..im sure you guys can correct me :lol::P:lol: ) but I get nothing..no response....Man I hope it's nothing related to the steering column :huh:

Lots of cars from the last 10 years or so will not activate the starter on a running engine. The thought is that today's cars are so quiet that it could happen in regular use and damage flywheels.

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Dang! Everyone else posts on here trying to figure out how to keep thier caddy running. Then you come along trying to figure out the opposite! :o

LOL, you read my mind.

Before posting I was like "man this HAS to be a first for the board: how to get your caddy to quit running" :lol:

Problem still persists intermittently: happened today 2/6 times I went to shut her off.

And I have been having some starting issues for a while now adallak, here's the thread http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...c=16726&hl= (things are pretty much still the same, figured i'd update it once the problem "forced my hand" so to speak)

The problem im having now is like really....strange. Like the starter/PCM wont recognize the ignition position or something. Like while the engine is running I can turn the key to "start" and get nada...nothing. Typically you should get that nasty grinding noise when the starter contacts the moving flywheel (or something like that..im sure you guys can correct me :lol::P:lol: ) but I get nothing..no response....Man I hope it's nothing related to the steering column :huh:

I still think the problem is either mechanical - the link connecting the ignition key with ignition switch developed a crack and is falling apart, or is related to defective ignition switch. I think starter or PCM have nothing to do with described symptoms. Another possibility is lose ignition switch (moving up and down the steering column).

If someone posts the exploded view of the column, you'll see what I am talking about.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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I agree, this is a bad ignition switch, a short or a mechanical problem stopping the switch from being moved.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Battery had been acting up lately...Thought it was a short, turns out it was bad. Haven't had any issues since replacement. I'll keep this thread updated if I have anymore problems. Next I get to figure out why the heater/AC module has stopped working! I guess you have to expect these sort of problems on a 15 year old car. :lol:

A.J.

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I had a battery go bad on me. When that happens the PZM notices and disables some things. My radio wouldn't work until I put in a new battery. I didn't notice the A/C because it was cool that night but I wouldn't be surprised if that wasn't disabled too. After you get the battery in, look at things again and see if everything is OK.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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wow, glad you might have found the problem...., its amazing that other issues did not come to light before this due to a weak battery

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I had been suspecting things because it didn't seem to have quite the snap it should when starting for the first time in the morning, although the battery was less than a year old. I was watching the battery voltage and it seemed OK, but I left the display on and looked at it before I started the car, and it read 10.2 Volts -- dead cell! And, the radio wouldn't turn on. The only code was a B1983 History, so the PZM noticed that it dropped below 9 Volts on starting. I got a new battery before I got home. It was cool, so I didn't notice whether the A/C was running, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if it wasn't. Once the new battery was in, the radio was fine.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Battery had been acting up lately...Thought it was a short, turns out it was bad. Haven't had any issues since replacement. I'll keep this thread updated if I have anymore problems. Next I get to figure out why the heater/AC module has stopped working! I guess you have to expect these sort of problems on a 15 year old car. :lol:

I do not see how a bad battery can prevent a car from being turned off. The PZM realized you will not be able to start the car as soon as you turn it off, so it kept it running? :o Next time I press gas pedal but my car does not accelerate, I will know the PZM noticed a cop down the road. :D

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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