twocoltbob Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 Hello! I am a new member and this is my first post, so here goes........ I have an '05 Escalade (which I love) and I have 50,000 miles on her. I want to change the tranny oil & filter and would like some advise. I have already gotten the message from this forum NOT to use a flush machine. I would like to use Amsoil tranny fluid, unless someone can tell me why I shouldn't, and I need some advise on how to do it. I am mechanically inclined and have done oil changes on the vehicle already. The second question I have is about the front and rear diff's and the transfer case. I saw a GREAT post on this site that details all the procedures, the only question I have is about the refilling. Do I fill the cases 'till I feel the fluid in the fill hole with my finger, or do I strictly go by GM's capacity chart?? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out. I just can not go for the $800.00 bucks the dealer wants to do the work at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Jim Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 Hello! I am a new member and this is my first post, so here goes........ I have an '05 Escalade (which I love) and I have 50,000 miles on her. I want to change the tranny oil & filter and would like some advise. I have already gotten the message from this forum NOT to use a flush machine. I would like to use Amsoil tranny fluid, unless someone can tell me why I shouldn't, and I need some advise on how to do it. I am mechanically inclined and have done oil changes on the vehicle already. The second question I have is about the front and rear diff's and the transfer case. I saw a GREAT post on this site that details all the procedures, the only question I have is about the refilling. Do I fill the cases 'till I feel the fluid in the fill hole with my finger, or do I strictly go by GM's capacity chart?? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out. I just can not go for the $800.00 bucks the dealer wants to do the work at this point. Can't help you with advice about AMSOIL, but with the transfer case and differentials should be filled to JUST BARELY level or just a tiny bit BELOW the filler plug. At least that is the way I have always done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 About the front diff, rear diff, transfer case.... that could have been my write up. When I removed the "fill" plugs, the top ones, fluid came out of all 3... So, the factory fill seems to be slightly over the bottom of the plug... So when I refilled, I refilled until fluid was coming out.... I waited a little, for it to stop coming out... and then I put the plugs back in. That's how I've always done it... I haven't had any problems yet... I did my transmission fluid a couple weeks ago, but haven't posted that yet. I have several I could post here, actually... I wasn't sensing much Escalade interest, but if there is, I will post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twocoltbob Posted October 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 About the front diff, rear diff, transfer case.... that could have been my write up. When I removed the "fill" plugs, the top ones, fluid came out of all 3... So, the factory fill seems to be slightly over the bottom of the plug... So when I refilled, I refilled until fluid was coming out.... I waited a little, for it to stop coming out... and then I put the plugs back in. That's how I've always done it... I haven't had any problems yet... I did my transmission fluid a couple weeks ago, but haven't posted that yet. I have several I could post here, actually... I wasn't sensing much Escalade interest, but if there is, I will post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twocoltbob Posted October 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 Patrick, It was your post that I was referring to. I have noticed that there is not a great response in the Escalade dept. here. I would be very interested in the Tranny info you have. Since I am going to only drain as much fluid as comes out through the pan removal, I am going to use the Dexron lll to fill it with. I am expecting only about half the fluid to come out and do not want to mix fluids. From what I have read here and on other sites, it's a NO NO to "flush" the system, so I will just replace the filter and fill it with as much as needed. I am thinking about flushing and refilling the braking system as well. Any thoughts?? I am not "looking" for things to do, but I need this truck to last a long time and want to do the P/M to prevent any premature failures. In the other cases I intend to use Amsoil products. I have used their oils & filters in all 4 of my vehicles and my Harley with very good results over the past 4 years. Thanks in advance for your help! Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 Another Harley guy, eh?? I have a Road King Classic, and my GF has a Heritage Softail..... I will be posting some of my "How-to's" here shortly.... Under seperate threads, for clarity... I did pump out & replace all the brake fluid in my Eldorado Touring Coupe a few years ago... If the fluid is really black, maybe it's a good idea. In my Escalade, which I just got back in May (used, obviously, I buy everything used), the fluid still looks really clean, and the brakes are working awesome, so I'm afraid to touch it.... This board does have great people on it though... don't be discouraged. Some of them have helped me immensely... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 To make a long story short, the shop manual seems to indicate that you should fill the transmission until the level is in the middle of the "X" pattern, on level indicator. Automatic Transmission Fluid/Filter Replacement Removal Procedure Caution When the transmission is at operating temperatures, take necessary precautions when removing the drain plug, to avoid being burned by draining fluid. 1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. 2. Place a drain pan under the transmission oil pan. 3. Remove the oil pan drain plug, if equipped. 4. If necessary, remove the bolts and position aside the range selector cable bracket for clearance while lowering the pan. It is not necessary to remove the cable from the lever or bracket. 5. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and sides of the pan only. 6. Loosen the rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns. 7. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet in order to loosen the pan to allow the fluid to drain. 8. Remove the remaining oil pan bolts. 9. Remove the oil pan and the gasket. 10. Grasp firmly while pulling down with a twisting motion in order to remove the filter. 11. Remove and discard the filter seal. The filter seal may be stuck in the pump; if necessary, carefully use pliers or another suitable tool to remove the seal. 12. Inspect the fluid color. 13. Inspect the filter. Pry the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and pull apart. The filter may contain the following evidence for root cause diagnosis: * Clutch material * Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear * Steel particles 14. Clean the transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and air dry. You must remove all traces of the old gasket material. Installation Procedure 1. Coat the NEW filter seal with automatic transmission fluid. 2. Install the NEW filter seal into the transmission case. Tap the seal into place using a suitable size socket. 3. Install the NEW filter. 4. Install the oil pan and NEW gasket. Notice Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems. 5. Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten Tighten the bolts alternately and evenly to 11 N·m (97 lb in). 6. If previously removed, install the range selector cable bracket and bolts. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft). 7. Apply a small amount of sealant GM P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent to the threads of the oil pan drain plug, if equipped. 8. Install the oil pan drain plug, if equipped. Tighten Tighten the plug to 18 N·m (13 lb ft). 9. Lower the vehicle. 10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON® III transmission fluid. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure and Fluid Capacity Specifications . 11. Check the COLD fluid level reading for initial fill only. 12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks. Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure 1. Start the engine and operate the vehicle for 15 minutes or until the transmission fluid reaches an operating temperature of 82-93°C (180-200°F). 2. Park the vehicle on a level surface. 3. With your foot on the brake, move the shift lever through each gear range. Pause for about 3 seconds in each range, ending in PARK. 4. Apply the parking brake and let the engine idle for 3 minutes. 5. Remove the transmission fluid level indicator. Wipe the indicator clean. Insert the indicator. Give the indicator a full twist in order to close. 6. Wait 3 seconds and remove the indicator. 7. Read both sides of the indicator. The fluid must be within the hot cross-hatched area using the lowest level reading. Step Action? Yes: action No: action 1 Check the fluid color. Is the fluid red in color? Yes: Go to Step 5 No:Go to Step 2 2 Is the fluid a non-transparent pink in color? Yes: Go to Step 14 No: Go to Step 3 3 Important: Fluid may turn a dark brown in color from normal use. This does not always indicate an oxidation or a contamination issue. Is the fluid a light brown in color? Yes: Go to Step 5 No: Go to Step 4 4 Is the fluid black in color and or have a "burnt" smell? Yes: Go to Step 14 No: Go to Step 5 5 Does the fluid appear as a solid "liquid" and not "foamy" or full of bubbles on level indicator? Yes: Go to Step 6 No: Go to Step 6 6 Check the fluid level. Proper level should be in middle of the "X" pattern, on level indicator. Is the level OK? Yes: Go to Step 19 No: Go to Step 7 7 Is the fluid level high on indicator? Yes: Go to Step 12 No: Go to Step 8 8 Is the fluid level low on indicator? Yes: Go to Step 9 No: Go to Step 4 9 Check for any external leak or leaks. Refer to Fluid Leak Diagnosis . Did you find an external leak or leaks? Yes: Go to Step 10 No: Go to Step 11 10 Correct leak or leaks as needed. Are any leak or leaks still present? Yes: Go to Step 9 No: Go to Step 11 11 Add fluid until level is in middle of "X" pattern on the level indicator. Is the level OK? Yes: Go to Step 19 No: Go to Step 6 12 Drain fluid until level is in middle of "X" pattern on the level indicator. Is level OK? YEs: Go to Step 19 No: Go to Step 6 13 Replace oil cooler and flush lines. Is the replacement complete? Yes: Go to Step 15-- 14 Important: A small amount of "friction" material in pan bottom is a "normal" condition, but large pieces and or metal particles will require complete transmission overhaul. Drain fluid and remove oil pan to inspect. Is there sign or signs of internal component damage noted in bottom of transmission oil pan? Yes: Go to Step 16 No: Go to Step 13 15 Replace the filter and fluid. Refer to Automatic Transmission Fluid/Filter Replacement . Is the replacement complete? Go to Step 6 16 Flush oil cooler and lines. Refer to Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test . Is the Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test complete? Go to Step 17 17 Overhaul the transmission. Is the Transmission Overhaul Procedure complete? Go to Step 18 18 Add new fluid. Is the procedure complete? Go to Step 6 19 Check the fluid level and correct as necessary. Is the fluid level satisfactory? Go to Step 20 20 If equipped, reset the oil life monitor to 100 percent. Are all of the reset procedures complete? Yes: System OK No: Go to Step 1 Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twocoltbob Posted October 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2008 Yes I am a Harley guy as well. I just sold my '05 two tone black & white Softail Deluxe (too small for me, I am 6 feet, 215 lbs.) and bought a 2008 Ultra Classic with ABS. I can tell you the ABS system works fabulous!! I have done all my own maintenance on the bikes which I find easier than a car. I bought a PITBULL motorcycle lift which is pricey but worth every cent! It's not one of those flimsy $100.00 lifts like the ones Pep Boy's and Sears sell, it is extremely stable and lifts the bike higher so you can work on it very comfortably. If you are into Harley's and intend to do your own work you should check them out on the web. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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