96 SLS whl sensor prob.

[vdwarren]

Jim and Ranger, you where working me thru the problems that I have. I read the in depth description that jcobz 28 posted Nov.20th. His description is identical to my problem. When the traction control and ABS light went on, the turn signals also started working only about 20 % of the time. I went thru all the Maxi-fuses as with the #3 batt fuse, all had some corrosive build-up, cleaned and took voltage readings, all where fine, no drop at all. After clearing all Codes., the T0025 & T0027 again come up. When into code and then enter into detail, there comes additional letter with number codes, how are these desiferred? Again if any additional thoughts come to mind they are welcome. Thanks again for the past time and help.

[Ranger]

Is this what you are looking for?

* ABS -- Antilock Brake System

* AMP -- Amplifier

* DDM -- Drivers Door Module

* DDS -- Drivers Door Switch

* DIM -- Dash Integration Module

* IPC -- Instrument Panel Cluster

* IPM -- Instrument Panel Integration Module

* IRC -- Integrated Radio Chassis

* LRD -- Left Rear Door Module

* MSM -- Memory Seat Module

* PCM -- Powertrain Control Module

* PDM -- Passenger Door Module

* RCC -- Rear Climate Control

* RFA -- Remote Function Actuation

* RIM -- Rear Integration Module

* RRD -- Right Rear Door Module

* RSS -- Road Sensing Suspension

* SDM -- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module

* TTM -- Tilt and Telescopic Steering Wheel Module

* VTD -- Vehicle Theft Deterent

[vdwarren]

Is this what you are looking for?

* ABS -- Antilock Brake System

* AMP -- Amplifier

* DDM -- Drivers Door Module

* DDS -- Drivers Door Switch

* DIM -- Dash Integration Module

* IPC -- Instrument Panel Cluster

* IPM -- Instrument Panel Integration Module

* IRC -- Integrated Radio Chassis

* LRD -- Left Rear Door Module

* MSM -- Memory Seat Module

* PCM -- Powertrain Control Module

* PDM -- Passenger Door Module

* RCC -- Rear Climate Control

* RFA -- Remote Function Actuation

* RIM -- Rear Integration Module

* RRD -- Right Rear Door Module

* RSS -- Road Sensing Suspension

* SDM -- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module

* TTM -- Tilt and Telescopic Steering Wheel Module

* VTD -- Vehicle Theft Deterent

[vdwarren]

Is this what you are looking for?

* ABS -- Antilock Brake System

* AMP -- Amplifier

* DDM -- Drivers Door Module

* DDS -- Drivers Door Switch

* DIM -- Dash Integration Module

* IPC -- Instrument Panel Cluster

* IPM -- Instrument Panel Integration Module

* IRC -- Integrated Radio Chassis

* LRD -- Left Rear Door Module

* MSM -- Memory Seat Module

* PCM -- Powertrain Control Module

* PDM -- Passenger Door Module

* RCC -- Rear Climate Control

* RFA -- Remote Function Actuation

* RIM -- Rear Integration Module

* RRD -- Right Rear Door Module

* RSS -- Road Sensing Suspension

* SDM -- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module

* TTM -- Tilt and Telescopic Steering Wheel Module

* VTD -- Vehicle Theft Deterent

Hi Ranger, when bringing up the TCS. code, TSC inputs, then LF Whl Sensor, "yes again" brings up some of the following:

1 LF SPEED TC-D03

ISS TORQ TC D01

ECU IDA TC D06

HI VLV RLY TC102

LO BLS TC101

4205 ECU ID BTC D07

I am thinking that these may define a problem more precisely.

[Ranger]

Oh, your reading the input data. You're gonna need a FSM to decipher that stuff. I have no clue.

[vdwarren]

Oh, your reading the input data. You're gonna need a FSM to decipher that stuff. I have no clue.

Hey, thanks for the comeback, I have to try to find one for sale. At least I now know the next step.

[Ranger]

Ebay is your friend.

[Cadillac Jim]

For now, the OBD I code T027 tells us that the left front wheel speed sensor is open, as seen by the PCM. That likely means that the connector is loose or the sensor is open. The T025 just means the LF speed sensor data is missing.

[jcobz28]

I got all 3 of your PMs. I'll move it out here into the forum so it's less confusing and easier for others to chime in.

-Jacob

===========================================================

Changing the EBTCM was kind of a pain, but for me mostly because the brake line fittings going into it were severly frozen. Even though I had a flare wrench on them, they would not budge, and just stripped the fitting. I had to resort to mangling 2 of the 6 fittings with some vice grips clamped down super hard before they busted loose. Then, since the fittings were mangled, I had to cut the brake line with some tube cutters, and replace a section of hard line with a union, and also a new fitting. Then, one of the lines was so severely rusted, I had to replace it entirely, which ment bending my own line. Not that hard, but it was just all the little things that added up to make it a pain.

I assume it would have not seemed so bad if the fittings had backed out properly and easily!!

As long as those come out easy, the rest is cake! Bleeding the unit was not hard at all, but I have a Motive brake bleeder which allows 1 person to do it. Then you don't need someone to pump the brakes and all that. I would recommend investing in one of these if you want to tackle the job yourself.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

I got the universal one so I can use it on all my cars when I want to bleed them. But you may want to consider getting the late-model GM one. The universal one is sometimes a pain to get a good seal on the fluid resevoir and can be messy. A precise fit GM cap would be awesome.

If you don't mind... what is the problem w/ your EBTCM? Are you getting codes from it? Or is it totally dead?

Hey jcobz, this will be the third time I have tried to answer. The other two are floating around some where.

When I got the Traction Control and ABS light, I checked the codes and got T0025 & T0027.

I checked the wires and connections, took continuety checks, all in order.

Replaced LH Front sensor and hub assy. Cleared codes, about 25 miles lights on.

Read what you went thru with the maxi-fuses, and did as you did, cleared codes, and lights again came on.

Took it to Brake Masters to see if they could find what I was missing, they spent over an hour and could only sugest that it was a fualty EBTCM.

One thing I would mention, that when comming to a slow stop " 10 to 15mph" the left front brake would grab, but only seldom.

Unfortionaly if I can I must do my own repairs, I spent $400.00 because of bad judgement.

This car is very clean and is a Arizona car, so rust and corrosion is not a problem.

Thanks for your time, Jim and Ranger has helped me through some of these problems.

Vern

[jcobz28]

Your REALLY need to get a FSM to track down this problem. Based upon my personal experience, I would strongly urge against replacing the EBTCM, as I don't think that will fix your problem. After replacing mine, and still having the same problems as before, it wasn't until I really delved deep into the FSM wiring diagrams and diagnostics that I found the problem, and it was not in the EBTCM. I had already chucked my old EBTCM by the time I found the real problem, but I'd bet $500 it was fine and could have plugged in and worked in the end.

There are more details to my diagnosis I did not take the time to divulge in my previous posts. I will share them here. After finding the Maxi-fuse corrossion issue and cleaning the contact terminals, the EBTCM (ABS/TCS) lights issue seemed fixed, ans I posted as such. But a few days later, it was back. I found that if I wiggled the wiring harness feeding into back of the maxi-fuse box, I could get the ABS/TCS lights to go out. Drive it around some more, and after going over bumps, the lights would come back on. It appeared to still be a wiring issue being so intermittent and figity with bumps and shaking the wire bundle.

[A relevent sidetrack]... I took on my ISS replacement job. After dropping the cradle (this REALLY moves the wiring harness), I bolted things back together and found that I now had a new code I didn't have before. Don't remember the # off hand, but it was the one for "open circuit on Sevice Engine Soon (SES) light". When you put the key in the ignition and turn to accessory on, the SES light is supposed to come on momentarily as a bulb/function test. Now it did not, and I had this code. I got out the FSM, and looked at the wiring diagram. The circuit was very simple. Just one wire going from the PCM to the bulb on the intrument panel (IPC). It goes through one connector (C101) which is located by the drivers side shock tower, and then through a grommet in the firewall, and that's it. I took the blue/clear connectors off the PCM, probed the appropriate pin, and then went to probe the associated pin at connector C101. This is part of the FSM diagnostic for determining continuity in the line. The other half of the diagnostic would be to probe for continuity on the other half of the C101 connector, and the bulb socket on the IPC. Well, the reason I am telling you all of this is, when I went to separate the connector halves of C101, four of the wires literally disintegrated in my hand. The connector was extremely corroded. I assume dropping the cradle had put just enough stress on the weakened corroded wires to make them finally snap in half. One of the corroded wires as for the SES line. I stripped the wire, re-pinned it, and the associated code went away. A second corroded/broken wire was the enable reverse lights wire. My backup lights had never worked and I never bothered to troubleshoot why. I once again stripped/repinned this wire, and now the backup lights worked. The thrid corroded, and barely hanging on by a thread wire was... the power supply wire for the EBTCM! Stripped/re-pinned this wire, and voila! The EBTCM issue has not come back since. ABS/TCS lights are permanently out, no matter the bumps and wire jiggles.

I know you said you brushed off green corrosion on your maxi-fuses, but I would encourage you to also check out this connector C101 and closely inspect both halves of the connectors for green corroded wires. It is the black rectangular connector mounted by the drivers shock tower, under the big plastic fuse cover/shroud.

That said, my issue was different than yours. When my ABS/TCS lights were on, I had NO connectivity to the EBTCM at all. If I went into read the codes through the HVAC buttons, when I scrolled to TCS, I got the message "No TCS data". This now makes sense, because the EBTCM had "no" power. (Actually, it was getting about 3v through the corroded wire, which is enough to indicate a positive voltage and initially fool me on the diagnostics test, but not enough to really power up the EBTCM).

It sounds as if your issue is different. When reading codes, you CAN read error codes from the EBTCM, correct? That's the only way for you to get TC0025, TC0027. So I think you have a different issue. I have the FSM in front of my now, and looking at the wiring diagram for the left front wheel speed sensor (DTC27 page), it shows that wiring having nothing to do with C101. I will scan the page and post in a few.

I think you really need to get a FSM and run though the proper diagnostics tree here, and really SEE for yourself all these wiring diagrams and trouble shoot it that way. Trace down every connection for the wires on the circuit for the front left speed sensor. Check continuity at every possible junction, wiggle the wires, visually check for corrosion, etc. I just find it very odd that the a bad EBTCM would only cause an error related to this one function. A bad EBTCM, I would think, would fail all-together, and not let you even read codes from it, or just crap out with tons of codes. You have a SINGLE code issue... I really thing it's got to be something in that front left wheel sensor circuit. Like someone previously posted, the TC0027 is causing the TC0025. TC0027 is a continuity malfunction in the circuit, and TC0025 is loss of data, obviously a result. The FSM says if both codes are present, to troubleshoot TC0027 first. I will post the troubleshooting pages for these 2 DTCs soon as well. Also, someone mentioned that these are OBDI codes... I don't think so. I believe that are OBDII.

I'm gonna get scanning. Will post back in a few with diagrams. I'd love to just sell you this book... maybe someone will purchase my car soon! Got a call with a $2,000 offer today... no thanks.

Sorry for the novel. This stuff just takes a lot of detailed explaining.

-Jacob

[jcobz28]

I'm reading the FSM pages on DTCs TC0025 and TC0027 and it's really great stuff. I'll scan/post them... I want you to read them thoroughly! One VERY interesting note on these pages is:

"The EBTCM will only set one wheel speed sensor fault code at a time, even if multiple faults exist. Detection is prioritized accordingly: LF, RR, LR, RF. Always check for additional stored codes after making repairs"

Interesting that you have the LF code, which is prioritized first. I wonder if it IS a EBTCM issue, and it's just reporting the LF code since that's the one that is checked first by the computer. The only way to know will be to run through these diagnostic trees in the correct order.

I'll get back to scanning. Hope the copyright police don't see this one.

[jcobz28]

DTC TC0025 trouble-shooting (4 pages)

DTC TC0027 trouble-shooting (2 pages)

Wiring diagram for all 4 wheel speed sensors

List of TCS codes

[vdwarren]

DTC TC0025 trouble-shooting (4 pages)

DTC TC0027 trouble-shooting (2 pages)

Wiring diagram for all 4 wheel speed sensors

List of TCS codes

Hey Jacob, by the time you get through with me, I owe you a good dinner.

I'm working off the T0027 Trouble Code Diagnotic chart, I am retraceing all the steps, the one thing that I did not do at the time was unplug the EBTCM, and I don't think that Brake Masters did either, probably for the same reason I didn't. Not easy to get to and how to unplug this connection.

Can you tell me the best way, and any trick with the unplugging? Then I can work my way through the checks on the T0027 sheet you sent.

The EBTCM Sensor looks like it lays under the ABS Brake Assy. that the brake lines, "you had a problem with", connects to.

[jcobz28]

You definitely need to disconnect the wiring harness to the EBTCM in order to probe it. I don't see how you could test the continuity of the circuits for the wheel speed sensors without doing so.

It is really quite simply to get that connector off! Remove the air intake filter box and duct, etc. Then just reach down around the lower radiator hose to the EBTCM, and there is a silver/metal swing-clip. It's unlike any type of connector retainer I've ever seen on another car. Very important you do this right or you will break the retaining mechanism... you don't want that!

The swing-clip just needs to be pulled upwards, in a clockwise motion, about 30 degrees or so. That's all it takes to un-hinge the clip, and then the connector will pull straight up. You don't want to force it more than about 30 degrees or so... it doesn't have that much play, and that's all that is needed.

The side of the clip closest to the firewall is the pivot point, and the side of the clip towards the radiator is where you lift to swing the clip. If yours is stuck, you may need to get a small regular screw-driver under the clip the held pry it the first time, but do so gently.

Once you have the wiring harness connector off the EBTCM, follow the TC0027 diagnostics and backprobe it as instructed. They often talk about connecting a break-out box so that you can probe the circuits without damaging the connector pins on the harness. This is a specialty dealer item, and really not necessary as long as you are carefull not to physically mangle the connector pins by shoving in an oversized probe tip. This is what I did:

The tips of my multi-meter probes were larger than the female receptacles on the harness. I didn't want to jam them in and destroy the connector. So, I got a jumper wire (small wire with 2 alligator clips on each end). I connected 1 alligator clip to the end of my mult-meter probe, and then I unbent a paperclip, and connected the aligator clip to the paperclip. Then I used the small tip of the paperclip to probe the EBTCM harness, as it was just the right size to fit in the harness with a good amount of tension for retention, but without damaging the socket.

The diagrams I posted show pin numbers on the EBTCM. You need to know visually where those pins are in order to probe them, so I am going to go scan the FSM diagram of the pin number locations.

Let me know if you need any more info!

[jcobz28]

Here is the visual key to locating the pin #'s on the connector:

Remember this is a key for looking at the EBTCM itself, so the mirror image would be what you need for probing the connector harness. It's hard to screw up since the pins are sized differently on each side ... but just wanted to mention it.

[vdwarren]

Here is the visual key to locating the pin #'s on the connector:

Remember this is a key for looking at the EBTCM itself, so the mirror image would be what you need for probing the connector harness. It's hard to screw up since the pins are sized differently on each side ... but just wanted to mention it.

You should have a job writting tech. manuals. Because I'm gun shy at breaking anything, have question for a next step. The hinged faster lifted just as you said, the harness connector lifts up from the firewall side. BUT, seems to hinge on the radiator side, it seems that it won't lift streight up, it rocks to the point that I can see the male connections on the stationary, but if this is the case how where you able to get to the top of the connector?

That top half seems to be made to just rock up maybe 45 degrees, In order to see into the top side it seems it would have seperate at that point to rock over enough to access the pin connectors.

Hey, Jacob, bear with me, I am not as clear at descriptions that you are.

[jcobz28]

The harness connector will lift off completely from the EBTCM. If you have already swung the metal lever and loosened the connector from the firewall side, then you are 99% there.

The side of the connector closest to the radiator is probably hung up on a tiny plastic clip, as I point out here with the red arrow:

Play with the harness connector as to angle the tab on the connector out of this tiny plastic clip. This is the thing I was telling you is very easy to break. Mostly, because the plastic gets brittle and cracks easy. If it does break, don't worry, it's not the end of the world. The metal swinging clip does a fine job of retaining the harness to the ebtcm on it's own. But, I just want to help you avoid breaking this tab if at all possible!

Also, I want to mention the if the diagnostics do point to you needing to replace the ebtcm, that there are actually 2 units that comprise the ABS/TCS module, which we refer to as the EBTCM. The unit, which appears as 1, actually has 2 halves. The computer module / brains side is technically the EBTCM. This is the side that the wire harness connects to. Then there is the other half, the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV), which has the solenoids that pulsate when ABS is activated. The command to pulsate the solenoids comes from the EBTCM half, based upon an interpretation of the signal inputs from the 4 wheel speed sensors. See diagram below:

If the FSM diagnostics do point to "replace EBTCM", you really only need to replace the EBTCM half, and not the BPMV half. This is a much easier job, because now you don't need to disconnect the hard brake lines from the BPMV and bleed the system. The EBTCM literally unbolts from the BPMV half from just 4 tiny torx-head screws ("7" in the diagram), and one large center bolt ("8" in the diagram).

The reason I had to remove the BPMV, was when I went to loosen these 4 torx screws and center bolt, they all snapped on me. In order to drill them out, I had to remove the entire unit. Then, I mangled the unit trying to drill them out, and thus just ended up getting an entire replacement unit on ebay. But, hopefully you will have better luck than I if you come to remove those 4 screws and 1 bolt!

[vdwarren]

The harness connector will lift off completely from the EBTCM. If you have already swung the metal lever and loosened the connector from the firewall side, then you are 99% there.

The side of the connector closest to the radiator is probably hung up on a tiny plastic clip, as I point out here with the red arrow:

Play with the harness connector as to angle the tab on the connector out of this tiny plastic clip. This is the thing I was telling you is very easy to break. Mostly, because the plastic gets brittle and cracks easy. If it does break, don't worry, it's not the end of the world. The metal swinging clip does a fine job of retaining the harness to the ebtcm on it's own. But, I just want to help you avoid breaking this tab if at all possible!

Also, I want to mention the if the diagnostics do point to you needing to replace the ebtcm, that there are actually 2 units that comprise the ABS/TCS module, which we refer to as the EBTCM. The unit, which appears as 1, actually has 2 halves. The computer module / brains side is technically the EBTCM. This is the side that the wire harness connects to. Then there is the other half, the brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV), which has the solenoids that pulsate when ABS is activated. The command to pulsate the solenoids comes from the EBTCM half, based upon an interpretation of the signal inputs from the 4 wheel speed sensors. See diagram below:

If the FSM diagnostics do point to "replace EBTCM", you really only need to replace the EBTCM half, and not the BPMV half. This is a much easier job, because now you don't need to disconnect the hard brake lines from the BPMV and bleed the system. The EBTCM literally unbolts from the BPMV half from just 4 tiny torx-head screws ("7" in the diagram), and one large center bolt ("8" in the diagram).

The reason I had to remove the BPMV, was when I went to loosen these 4 torx screws and center bolt, they all snapped on me. In order to drill them out, I had to remove the entire unit. Then, I mangled the unit trying to drill them out, and thus just ended up getting an entire replacement unit on ebay. But, hopefully you will have better luck than I if you come to remove those 4 screws and 1 bolt!

Went thru the check steps, #1-Yes, #2-No, 3#-No, #4-No, #5-No, #6-Road test about 4 miles, turned engine off, on restart lights came on, Code T0027 on. No code T0025. (The connectors where clean like new.)

So the only code to reset is the T0027.

Jacob, the EBTCM connector came apart just fine, had to get it just in the right position.

So I think I'am in the market for a EBTCM.

Boy, you have to have great dexterity to get to those bottom screws, I could'nt even feel them. Did you disassemble any thing in that area to open it up to make it easier to get at.?

[jcobz28]

Well if you went all the way through that diagnostic tree and it's still saying to get a new EBTCM, then at least it's a justified expense and not presumptuous. Sorry to hear it.

You will need to move things out of the way to better access those screws. Get at the top 2 screws from the top. You may want to consider draining your radiator coolant and then disconnecting the radiator hose in order to get better access. Make a little tee-pee with a plastic bag over the EBTCM so you don't give it a bath with coolant.

The lower 2 corner screws you will get at from the underside of the car. It is easier if you loosen the EBTCM from it's mount to the cradle first. This gives the EBTCM some movement and you can get to the screws much easier, as only the 6 hard brake lines will now be holding it in place, and they have some give. There are 2 rubber mounting bushings on the passenger-facing side of the EBTCM, and 1 rubber bushing centrally mounted on the driver-facing side of the EBTCM. A 10mm self-wratcheting wrench, or small 1/4" drive socket works best in the tight area to loosen the nuts. You do not need to take the nuts all the way off. Just loosen then 5 turns or so, and that will be enough for the rubber bushing to lose it's grip on the mount, and the EBTCM will push up and off of the metal mount. The 1 bushing on the rear of the unit can be hard to get to, and you may need to remove the driver side wheel, and foreward plastic wheel-well splash guard to get to it. Kind of a pain, but it's really easy to get to from that angle.

When you do get the EBTCM half out (separated from the BPMV), let me know what it looks like. I bet you have lots of white corrosion on the internal connector ribbon.

[vdwarren]

Well if you went all the way through that diagnostic tree and it's still saying to get a new EBTCM, then at least it's a justified expense and not presumptuous. Sorry to hear it.

You will need to move things out of the way to better access those screws. Get at the top 2 screws from the top. You may want to consider draining your radiator coolant and then disconnecting the radiator hose in order to get better access. Make a little tee-pee with a plastic bag over the EBTCM so you don't give it a bath with coolant.

The lower 2 corner screws you will get at from the underside of the car. It is easier if you loosen the EBTCM from it's mount to the cradle first. This gives the EBTCM some movement and you can get to the screws much easier, as only the 6 hard brake lines will now be holding it in place, and they have some give. There are 2 rubber mounting bushings on the passenger-facing side of the EBTCM, and 1 rubber bushing centrally mounted on the driver-facing side of the EBTCM. A 10mm self-wratcheting wrench, or small 1/4" drive socket works best in the tight area to loosen the nuts. You do not need to take the nuts all the way off. Just loosen then 5 turns or so, and that will be enough for the rubber bushing to lose it's grip on the mount, and the EBTCM will push up and off of the metal mount. The 1 bushing on the rear of the unit can be hard to get to, and you may need to remove the driver side wheel, and foreward plastic wheel-well splash guard to get to it. Kind of a pain, but it's really easy to get to from that angle.

When you do get the EBTCM half out (separated from the BPMV), let me know what it looks like. I bet you have lots of white corrosion on the internal connector ribbon.

I may try to tackle it tomorrow, have a bad bad back, so have to work when it decides to let me.

Looking in ebay to day found a outfit that rebuilds EBTCM's, not sure that it includes this particular one or the cost.

They have a phone number that I will call and get the details, also a "E" number or Web # "tech@autoecu.com &

autoecu.net.

As soon as I can get that unit off, I'll be in touch to let you know what it looks like.

Merry Christmas my friend, and thanks again.

[vdwarren]

Well if you went all the way through that diagnostic tree and it's still saying to get a new EBTCM, then at least it's a justified expense and not presumptuous. Sorry to hear it.

You will need to move things out of the way to better access those screws. Get at the top 2 screws from the top. You may want to consider draining your radiator coolant and then disconnecting the radiator hose in order to get better access. Make a little tee-pee with a plastic bag over the EBTCM so you don't give it a bath with coolant.

The lower 2 corner screws you will get at from the underside of the car. It is easier if you loosen the EBTCM from it's mount to the cradle first. This gives the EBTCM some movement and you can get to the screws much easier, as only the 6 hard brake lines will now be holding it in place, and they have some give. There are 2 rubber mounting bushings on the passenger-facing side of the EBTCM, and 1 rubber bushing centrally mounted on the driver-facing side of the EBTCM. A 10mm self-wratcheting wrench, or small 1/4" drive socket works best in the tight area to loosen the nuts. You do not need to take the nuts all the way off. Just loosen then 5 turns or so, and that will be enough for the rubber bushing to lose it's grip on the mount, and the EBTCM will push up and off of the metal mount. The 1 bushing on the rear of the unit can be hard to get to, and you may need to remove the driver side wheel, and foreward plastic wheel-well splash guard to get to it. Kind of a pain, but it's really easy to get to from that angle.

When you do get the EBTCM half out (separated from the BPMV), let me know what it looks like. I bet you have lots of white corrosion on the internal connector ribbon.

I may try to tackle it tomorrow, have a bad bad back, so have to work when it decides to let me.

Looking in ebay to day found a outfit that rebuilds EBTCM's, not sure that it includes this particular one or the cost.

They have a phone number that I will call and get the details, also a "E" number or Web # "tech@autoecu.com &

autoecu.net.

As soon as I can get that unit off, I'll be in touch to let you know what it looks like.

Merry Christmas my friend, and thanks again.

I got an answer from Auto and Truck Electronics, they do rebuild that unit, $389.00 w/ 6 mos warranty.

They bench test to verify the problem. Two day turn-a-round on the rebuild.

We have a member that is parting out a 96SLS in Las Vegas, he wants $300. for his, he says it was OK when the car was running.

In your travels when looking for the modual, where these prices in the park?

I feel like I can tear into the car tomorrow, I will let you know what I find.

[vdwarren]

Well if you went all the way through that diagnostic tree and it's still saying to get a new EBTCM, then at least it's a justified expense and not presumptuous. Sorry to hear it.

You will need to move things out of the way to better access those screws. Get at the top 2 screws from the top. You may want to consider draining your radiator coolant and then disconnecting the radiator hose in order to get better access. Make a little tee-pee with a plastic bag over the EBTCM so you don't give it a bath with coolant.

The lower 2 corner screws you will get at from the underside of the car. It is easier if you loosen the EBTCM from it's mount to the cradle first. This gives the EBTCM some movement and you can get to the screws much easier, as only the 6 hard brake lines will now be holding it in place, and they have some give. There are 2 rubber mounting bushings on the passenger-facing side of the EBTCM, and 1 rubber bushing centrally mounted on the driver-facing side of the EBTCM. A 10mm self-wratcheting wrench, or small 1/4" drive socket works best in the tight area to loosen the nuts. You do not need to take the nuts all the way off. Just loosen then 5 turns or so, and that will be enough for the rubber bushing to lose it's grip on the mount, and the EBTCM will push up and off of the metal mount. The 1 bushing on the rear of the unit can be hard to get to, and you may need to remove the driver side wheel, and foreward plastic wheel-well splash guard to get to it. Kind of a pain, but it's really easy to get to from that angle.

When you do get the EBTCM half out (separated from the BPMV), let me know what it looks like. I bet you have lots of white corrosion on the internal connector ribbon.

I may try to tackle it tomorrow, have a bad bad back, so have to work when it decides to let me.

Looking in ebay to day found a outfit that rebuilds EBTCM's, not sure that it includes this particular one or the cost.

They have a phone number that I will call and get the details, also a "E" number or Web # "tech@autoecu.com &

autoecu.net.

As soon as I can get that unit off, I'll be in touch to let you know what it looks like.

Merry Christmas my friend, and thanks again.

I got an answer from Auto and Truck Electronics, they do rebuild that unit, $389.00 w/ 6 mos warranty.

They bench test to verify the problem. Two day turn-a-round on the rebuild.

We have a member that is parting out a 96SLS in Las Vegas, he wants $300. for his, he says it was OK when the car was running.

In your travels when looking for the modual, where these prices in the park?

I feel like I can tear into the car tomorrow, I will let you know what I find.

[jcobz28]

What was the diagnosis on the EBTCM repair?

[vdwarren]

What was the diagnosis on the EBTCM repair?

Hey Jacob! Sorry, have not had anything to report until a few minutes ago. A & T Elect. just E-mailed me that the modual has internal fault, they had to order a part to be able to complete the bench test. The part will be in next week, then they will be able to report the full report spectrum.

I was reading your help report on EBTCM, "good job" told you, should have been tech. spec. writter. I got a EBTCM dealer qoute it was $1127.00. Have a in at dealer in anouther state, wholesale was like $787.

Also anouther thing that I have found is that particular modual had enough problems that there have been some component upgrades. Will keep you up to speed. Later Vern

[vdwarren]

What was the diagnosis on the EBTCM repair?

Hey Jacob! Sorry, have not had anything to report until a few minutes ago. A & T Elect. just E-mailed me that the modual has internal fault, they had to order a part to be able to complete the bench test. The part will be in next week, then they will be able to report the full report spectrum.

I was reading your help report on EBTCM, "good job" told you, should have been tech. spec. writter. I got a EBTCM dealer qoute it was $1127.00. Have a in at dealer in anouther state, wholesale was like $787.

Also anouther thing that I have found is that particular modual had enough problems that there have been some component upgrades. Will keep you up to speed. Later Vern

I wanted to add a little note:: When you are ready to sell your 96SLS FSM's please keep me in mind.

Again Later Vern