Marcus815 Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Hey Guys, I'm working on replacing my FPR because I think it may have something to do with my poor gas mileage. I've been working on removing the old one from the car but it isn't so simple. There is a double screw (bolt on top and underneath) that holds the FPR in place, and the one underneath is almost impossible to remove without some type of very special tool which I suppose must exist. Can anyone give me some info on how to remove the FPR on a 1993 4.9L Seville? Thanks, Marcus It's the screw located underneath the area inside the red circle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carterautorepair Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 WELL ON MY 93 SEVILLE I CHEATED. YOU MIGHT NOT WANT TO USE MY WAY ON THIS ONE. AFTER I TOOK THE LINES OFF I BENT THE LITTLE TAB UP JUST ENOUGH TO GET A 1\4 IN. RACHET AND TORX SOCKET ON THERE AND GET THE BOLT OUT. THEN BENT IT BACK DOWN AFTER REPLACING FPR. I'M SURE THERE IS A RIGHT WAY BUT I CHEATED ON THIS ONE. THE ONLY OTHER WAY I SAW WAS TO PULL THE FUEL RAIL UP. MAYBE THESE GUYS CAN TELL YOU A BETTER WAY, JUST TELLING HOW I DID IT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus815 Posted October 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Yeah, we were looking to remove the fuel pipes there, but that seemed a bit too excessive to simply remove the FPR. So you just bent it upwards and then unscrewed it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 I had the same problem with my 92 Deville. I remember it was a major pain. I think I fabricated(bent) a screw driver to back the screw out a little at a time or a small socket. I remember saying a few choice words about its design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Well, to remove the EGR valve to clean it, on the 96 at least you need to lift the fuel rail. The first time I lifted it, my heart was racing, but it really isn't difficult at all. Just remove the retainer bolts, go slow, and gently apply pressure to it, and lift it little by little trying to lift the entire rail as evenly as possible. To install it, line it up carefully and evenly apply pressure until its seated. Never force it, and never touch or clean the injectors, as tempting as that might be. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus815 Posted October 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Well, I just spent about two hours working on the darn thing and I'm not better of than if I sat watching TV. The space down there is so small I can hardly get my finger in there, let a lone a screw driver. I took a piece of play dough and managed to press it against the screw to determine it is indeed a Torx screw. I had a Torx screw driver that fit so I was bending it so I could fit it in there when it snapped in two at about 90 degrees. How the heck do the GMC technicians remove the darn screw? I'd hate to have to bring it in to have a screw removed, especially since I know how to do everything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 17, 2007 Report Share Posted October 17, 2007 Well, to remove the EGR valve to clean it, on the 96 at least you need to lift the fuel rail. The first time I lifted it, my heart was racing, but it really isn't difficult at all. Just remove the retainer bolts, go slow, and gently apply pressure to it, and lift it little by little trying to lift the entire rail as evenly as possible. To install it, line it up carefully and evenly apply pressure until its seated. Never force it, and never touch or clean the injectors, as tempting as that might be. Mike, he is talking about a 4.9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus815 Posted October 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Well, to remove the EGR valve to clean it, on the 96 at least you need to lift the fuel rail. The first time I lifted it, my heart was racing, but it really isn't difficult at all. Just remove the retainer bolts, go slow, and gently apply pressure to it, and lift it little by little trying to lift the entire rail as evenly as possible. To install it, line it up carefully and evenly apply pressure until its seated. Never force it, and never touch or clean the injectors, as tempting as that might be. Mike, he is talking about a 4.9. Yes, I was referring to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) If someone has a service manual for my Seville/Engine maybe they can tell me the tool they use to remove it, because it must be something special to fit in there. Like I stated, I tried bending a Torx wrench that I knew fit and it shattered after I bent it about 90 degrees. Maybe an angled Torx screw diver would do the job, but they are only slightly angled, not angled in a "U" Shape (300+ degrees) like I would need for this job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Try a Torx bit and a box wrench on the bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel812 Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Does anyone know how to do this on a 1998 SLS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus815 Posted October 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2007 Well guys, here's what I did. I just spent about four hours working on it and I didn't accomplish much. I attribute that to the fact that I'm not too good with cars, but after a while I think that anyone who spent the amount of time I spent working on this particular piece will become an expert on it The screw I'm working on removing is a Torx T30 size screw. I went to Home Depot, Sears and AceHardware and they all have the same hardened steel screwdriver. Those don't bend, FYI, they snap, haha. So after looking at my situation for a few moments I got pretty frustrated and went down to the basement and retrieved my grandfathers old, and I mean OLD drill. It smells like a World War Two ship when it's running, haha. I drilled out that Torx screw so now it's almost not there. Almost is a key word because what is left is being a *smurf* and holding the FPR in...tight. As of now I'm not sure what I'm going to do. Maybe it was a bad idea to drill out that screw because it looks like it hold it in place. I just want to get out that FPR now and get in the new one and take it from there. I'll get the job done tomorrow, more info then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 19, 2007 Report Share Posted October 19, 2007 Does anyone know how to do this on a 1998 SLS? Northstar is another story. I think you just depressurize the system and pull a "U" shapes retaining clip. Remove the R & R the FPR & "O" ring and reinstall the clip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.