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ISS Sensor Replacement


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Well today was productive, didnt start till 11 am but I got a lot done. Dropped the carriage about 10 inches. It was a slow process, and I needed to disconnect wire retainers, etc, but it went smoothly. I got the side pan off, and got most of the bolts out of the side cover, there must be a bolt that I have not figured out yet that is still holding it, I had to stop, it began to rain, and the mosquitos got bad...

I found out that my left engine mount is bad. What are the symptoms of a bad engine mount? I wonder if this could cause the skippiness that I experience over bumps?

I disconnected the muffler system and pulled it back about two inches with a come along. Here are some photos :

Car is up high on truck jack stands

ISSSpeedSensorJob027.jpg

Here is Logan's carriage drop method, the bolts are in place

ISSSpeedSensorJob008.jpg

Here is my muffler system pulled back about 2 inches

ISSSpeedSensorJob004.jpg

Here is the carriage dropped low enough to see the entire side pan

ISSSpeedSensorJob011.jpg

Here is the side pan off, the fluid was surprisingly clean

ISSSpeedSensorJob022.jpg

Here is a photo pulled back to see the entire mess and the rain, :lol:

ISSSpeedSensorJob029.jpg

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That was a great idea Logan came up with!

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Mike:

What is the length of the OEM bolts that hold the cradle in place?

Jim from the shoulder to the tip they are 3-3/4" long, Mike

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1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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I pulled the primary pump today and pulled the side cover. I knew immediately that I would not be getting much done. When I ordered my parts, I requested a small gasket and gmotors was unable to find it. Well, I found it, and need to replace it. I am surprised that they did not know what I was talking about, once you remove the case cover, it needs replacing.

I also noticed that the primary pump gasket was brittle and it looks like it blew, as soon as I saw this I knew I wouldn't assemble it:

ISSSpeedSensorJob032A.jpg

I installed a new axle seal

ISSSpeedSensorJob030.jpg

Here is a close up of the sensor, sorry about the wire, the gap was set at .037:

ISSSpeedSensorJob039.jpg

It seems like I found my problem, the old one was 600 to 650 ohms and the new one was 0.20 (near infinity), not sure how to state that, it was almost as it, I put the probes on the ohm meter together. By the way, the small gasket I was talking about is the oddly shaped gasket to the right of the ISS sensor.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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What a job. Better you than I Mike. My hat is off to you. How's the old guy next door holding up through all this? :lol:

Thank God he was away for the weekend..... I was so happy... He would have freaked :lol: (I am freakin enough, LOL)

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

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That was a great idea Logan came up with!

Regards,

Warren

It sure was!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

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Ok..it appears you are only using the rods on the drivers side? When I did mine...I had 3 rods on each side. I dropped the complete system the same on each side. Both sides level drop..make sense? Dropping both sides you dont have to mess with exhaust. But then again, mine is a bit different..

Sorry the 14mm shafts did not work. I suspected that could be a issue. I guess 14mm is 1998 and later.

I would not recommend using the shafts only on one side. It would be a side load issue on the shaft threads....weakest point of the thread shafts. Plus you are at 12mm...mine were 14mm. Then if they happen to be Chinesse shafts...all bets off.

Check for burning/carbon bubble on the TCC solenoid where yellow arrow is. Any bubbleing in area near connector. This $40 sensor is why I had to drop my trans. If I was to do the job again I would replace all sensors...10 hour job to get here.

Only way to use the rods is both sides. You cannot use rods on one side. There is no side rating on rods. Look at the red car pic...you can see the passenger side rods..

craddle_010.preview.jpg

craddle_009.1.preview.JPG

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Ok..it appears you are only using the rods on the drivers side? When I did mine...I had 3 rods on each side. I dropped the complete system the same on each side. Both sides level drop..make sense? Dropping both sides you dont have to mess with exhaust. But then again, mine is a bit different..

Sorry the 14mm shafts did not work. I suspected that could be a issue. I guess 14mm is 1998 and later.

I would not recommend using the shafts only on one side. It would be a side load issue on the shaft threads....weakest point of the thread shafts. Plus you are at 12mm...mine were 14mm. Then if they happen to be Chinesse shafts...all bets off.

Check for burning/carbon bubble on the TCC solenoid where yellow arrow is. Any bubbleing in area near connector. This $40 sensor is why I had to drop my trans. If I was to do the job again I would replace all sensors...10 hour job to get here.

Only way to use the rods is both sides. You cannot use rods on one side. There is no side rating on rods. Look at the red car pic...you can see the passenger side rods..

In the "red car" picture, are those poly end link bushings?? If so, where did you get them and what was the part number?

Thanks,

--John

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how did the nuts come off at the exhaust flange? i can see the bolts and i assume there are nuts that have to come off. where they still in good shape? seems to me they would be very rusty and seized after years of heat cycles. i am pulling my motor this week and i think i have to unbolt that flange myself.

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how did the nuts come off at the exhaust flange? i can see the bolts and i assume there are nuts that have to come off. where they still in good shape? seems to me they would be very rusty and seized after years of heat cycles. i am pulling my motor this week and i think i have to unbolt that flange myself.

Interesting you say this, the two bottom nuts came off fine and a 12mm socket fit ok, the top two were smaller from corrosion, I tapped an 11mm on one and a 10mm on the other and they came off fine, I bought 4 new nuts. They are 8 mm 1.25. Mike

There are very few threads that are still intact on the top...

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Ok..it appears you are only using the rods on the drivers side? When I did mine...I had 3 rods on each side. I dropped the complete system the same on each side. Both sides level drop..make sense? Dropping both sides you dont have to mess with exhaust. But then again, mine is a bit different..

Sorry the 14mm shafts did not work. I suspected that could be a issue. I guess 14mm is 1998 and later.

I would not recommend using the shafts only on one side. It would be a side load issue on the shaft threads....weakest point of the thread shafts. Plus you are at 12mm...mine were 14mm. Then if they happen to be Chinesse shafts...all bets off.

Check for burning/carbon bubble on the TCC solenoid where yellow arrow is. Any bubbleing in area near connector. This $40 sensor is why I had to drop my trans. If I was to do the job again I would replace all sensors...10 hour job to get here.

Only way to use the rods is both sides. You cannot use rods on one side. There is no side rating on rods. Look at the red car pic...you can see the passenger side rods..

Yes Logan, I visited my local dealer and spoke to the major surgery mechanic and he said to just drop the drivers side and I would be fine. I took out one of the pass side bolts that would stop it from tilting loosened the other two about half an inch and it tilted just fine, there does not appear to be too much pressure on the bolts and I can rock the carriage. The bolts came from MSC and they appear to be hardened steel.

I appreciate the bolts totally, not to mention the bolt drop method.... Thanks, I will get even.

Yes, I am going to replace the TCC solenoid and the pressure solenoid while I am there for sure... why not right? Do you think I should replace the temp sensor also?

Thanks a ton, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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OUTSIDE!!! You're doing this OUTSIDE?!? OMG! My best wishes are with you - good luck!

Scott

1996 El Dorado

2006 STS

2000 Corvette

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OUTSIDE!!! You're doing this OUTSIDE?!? OMG! My best wishes are with you - good luck!

My garage is way too small to do it inside. Its actually going pretty smoothly, time consuming but smoothly. I probably should have done this when I worked out of my house. The only risk is the rain. Thanks, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Hello BodybyFisher. I am new to the forum as well as Cadillacs. I hope you don't mind me butting in, but I have really enjoyed reading your post. Not only are they informative, thier entertaning as well. This one as well as the waterpump/crossover. I just want to throw a little moral support your way. Gotta admire a man who is doing what you are, especially one that is working in the driveway like I would...make that do.

Duff

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Hello BodybyFisher. I am new to the forum as well as Cadillacs. I hope you don't mind me butting in, but I have really enjoyed reading your post. Not only are they informative, thier entertaning as well. This one as well as the waterpump/crossover. I just want to throw a little moral support your way. Gotta admire a man who is doing what you are, especially one that is working in the driveway like I would...make that do.

Thanks I appreciate your support!

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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....

It seems like I found my problem, the old one was 600 to 650 ohms and the new one was 0.20 (near infinity), not sure how to state that, it was almost as it, I put the probes on the ohm meter together.

Whoa there, Mike. Stop and read this.

Triple check that resistance reading on your new solenoid coil. And get the correct range of acceptable values from your Service Manual. Your resistance reading of 0.2 Ohms is way out of spec. according to my '98 version Service Manual. Two thousand (2,000 or 2K) Ohms would be more like it.

It could be a simple as you are reading the meter range switch selection wrong,

OR

It could be as simple as your technique for attaching the meter test probes to the solenoid connector. Some meters will give an unreliable value if you are touching the bare meter test leads with parts of your body; in this case both hands.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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....

It seems like I found my problem, the old one was 600 to 650 ohms and the new one was 0.20 (near infinity), not sure how to state that, it was almost as it, I put the probes on the ohm meter together.

Whoa there, Mike. Stop and read this.

Triple check that resistance reading on your new solenoid coil. And get the correct range of acceptable values from your Service Manual. Your resistance reading of 0.2 Ohms is way out of spec. according to my '98 version Service Manual. Two thousand (2,000 or 2K) Ohms would be more like it.

It could be a simple as you are reading the meter range switch selection wrong,

OR

It could be as simple as your technique for attaching the meter test probes to the solenoid connector. Some meters will give an unreliable value if you are touching the bare meter test leads with parts of your body; in this case both hands.

Thanks Jim, I will recheck the resistance. I think I will buy a new meter, this one is shot. My other meter is with Rollingthunder, I never got it back from him. Ill buy a new digital meter tonight, Thanks, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Jim I bought a digital multimeter today from Radio Shack, its pretty nice ($69). It interfaces via serial port to a computer also. I tested it with a 1K 5% resistor and it measure it at .975K

I just got home from work so I couldn't test the new one, but the old one measured 2.6M ohms. It would not measure it in the K scale, it needed the M scale to read at all. Can you explain what that means?

I looked in my manual and it said that spec is 1350 to 1950 ohms. I will test the new one tomorrow and post my findings.

Thank you for thinking about this. I am also going to check the reading at the plug to make sure my wiring is ok..

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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....I just got home from work so I couldn't test the new one, but the old one measured 2.6M ohms. It would not measure it in the K scale, it needed the M scale to read at all. Can you explain what that means?
I'm not familiar with that VOM but it sounds like the display is blanked if the value is out of range maybe because the number of display characters is limited. It can display 2.6 with 3 characters. To display the same value using the "K" scale would require 5 characters (2,600). Just one possible reason.

I looked in my manual and it said that spec is 1350 to 1950 ohms. I will test the new one tomorrow and post my findings.
Same value my '98 manual provides.

Thank you for thinking about this. I am also going to check the reading at the plug to make sure my wiring is ok..
Very good idea. Hook up the sensor connector and check for the proper resistance value across the pins in the round connector.

Everybody needs new tools.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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So if the normal spec is 1350 to 1950, does the fact that mine is 2600 raise a red flag? Or, could it be drifting badly when its hot?

By the way, I ordered an ATRA 4T80-E technical rebuilding manual today.. When I took the case cover off, a thrust bearing fell out, I need to know which way it goes back in..

When I rebuilt TH350s in the early 80's, I recall that i was able to use white lithium grease in the tranny. I need to hold the small "island gasket' in place when I put the cover back on, does the use of white lithium grease in a tranny sound right?

My meter (22-812) is on the right in this photo (this has been a great job for buying new tools!)

http://www.tima.com/~djones/freq.htm

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Hey Logan , can you please tell me the exact size of the threaded rods you used. Was it 14mm x 1.75 or 14 mm x 1.03? How long are the rods? Did you get them from mscdirect online? I have a 2002 STS and plan on doing TCC job in the near future.

Thanks

Mario

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Hey Logan , can you please tell me the exact size of the threaded rods you used. Was it 14mm x 1.75 or 14 mm x 1.03? How long are the rods? Did you get them from mscdirect online? I have a 2002 STS and plan on doing TCC job in the near future.

Thanks

Mario

Logan's rods were 14mm x 1.75, he very kindly sent them to me, I need to send them back, Mike

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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