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Found 7 results

  1. Hello Everyone, So i am having an issue with my 2007 Cadillac DTS. The engine is running extremely hot, however the temp gauge is reading normal. Coolant Reservoir boils and smokes with cap off, and leaks with cap on due to too much pressure. Fans are not kicking on. Block test came back negative for blown head gasket, but the coolant reservoir was so hot it warped the plastic on the block tester. What would be the next culprit to look into??
  2. Hi all, First off I'm SO very happy I found this forum, I live in Amsterdam, The Netherlands and a Cadillac here is a bit of an Al Capone boat, no matter her age or model, most American cars are, but Cadillac.. that's only something from movies. BUT... I got myself about 1 year ago the real deal, a 2002 Deville in, I must say, mint condition, inside and out. No complaints exept for the radio that didnt do 'our' frequencies (or rather 50% of the fm frequencies, we use odd frequencies as well, the original radio only does even, or the other way around?). So replaced it with a nice pioneer digital radio with the proper interfaces to keep everything original. I love that car! In order to spoil her, I asked a friend mechanic to give it an overhaul, new fluids, new sparkplugs (they were ANCIENT), flush the coolant etc. First thing to pop was a coil, i guess it couldnt handle the new sparks, ordered a new one and all was fine. Until a few weeks later BOOM, it overheated. A quick look learned coolant was VERY low. Later I realised this was probably just an airbubble, as I started reading online about engine problems on the Deville. Yes, I am guilty as charged as not to bring it to a certified or at least experienced Cadillac shop, but keep in mind the closest one to find easilly is about 2.500miles from here: in the States, So from here on clouds drew over my Obamobile as it was commonly refered to last year (dont want to offend anyone, but I think it sounded better than 'Trumpette' as I heard someone called my baby ). In the weeks that follow things got from the temperature going thru half-way just a bit at a stoplight after a highway tour in the beginning, to sweaty and tensioned drives the past days as temperature is absolute iradic. CHECK COOLANT LEVEL was in my display ever since I bought her, so I decided to order a new reservoir with sensor so at least i could see what was going on and didnt have to check the level before a drive. That worked... for bit. Now I still check the level and fill her to the right level, close her up and start driving. About 2 minutes down the road the dash will tell me again to check the level. Here's what a typical drive now looks like for me: - I adjust the coolant if necessary, when cold the system is always under pressure. I assume that's normal. (is it?) Usually she agrees the level is ok for about 5, 6 minutes of drive (temperature raised about 1/4). - When I pull up for gas (also common on 4.6L engines i guess) and continue my drive, the level usually remains satisfactory to her, but not always. - I drive for good 20 minutes (Holland is not very big fortunately), when i dont meet any stoplights things should be good, when i need to stop, I keep my fingers crossed that dreaded needle wont go up. It goes down again as i proceed to drive. Than I stop the car and do my bussiness, so far, no problems. - I get back and halfway home, so that's about 10 minutes on the highway, temperature may go up to a level where i need to pull over and let the car cool, cuz I dont want the teperature to go in the red. Thusfar it happend to me one she told me she had turned off my a/c because her engine was hot. - When times are bad I may have to repeat those steps, when i dont rev above 2000rpm she thusfar remains fairly under control, but in the last 10 minutes to home i may have to pause 2 or 3 times to let her cool. The other day the last stop I made settled her mind, as temperature ran down to normal and as I parked she was happy as a if I had given her a box of chocolate.Temperature fine, no faults, she didnt even drain my gastank. - I go inside, do my 20 minutes of prayers and say my Hail Cadillac's and prepare for the next trip. So... My mechanic friend tested the coolant for illegal substances and we found that she's been smoking, as Co2 was found. Now you all know smoking weed is legal here but I never caught her doing any, so we came to the conclusion her head gasket was blown. So... what to do now? I have been reading and viewing youtube movies about horror stories on northstar engines, oh my, at times i get the feeling the Northstar engine is the absolute worst engine anybody ever built in the entire automobile history.. there's bolts that just pop out, entire blocks have cracks in it from front to end, they gobble up gaskets like there's no tomorrow and if you're lucky this all happens after about 10.000 miles of driving! Fortunately I know the People of The Internet have a way of over-exaggerating things and there are, so i understand 3 model northstar's, so probably it's not as bad as it looks. BUT... I need to repair my car. I love her too much to dispose of her because of this. Here's what we take into consideration given what we read and found reasonable to be true and our geographical location: - Parts for the Deville we can order online from rockauto, they are relatively inexpensive (particulary compared to european parts) and are here within 2 to 3 weeks, no problem. - The engine did at least 275.000km's up until today. - We can buy the same block at a junkyard, supposedly ran 100.000km, but we're never sure. It was a crash car so we can asume it's a fair engine for it's age and mileage. Still, it's 15 years old and did 100.000km's. It sells for say 1500 dollars. - We can buy a new longblock for roughly 4500,- dollars plus the little extra's you'll always end up needing. But it also needs shipment and it's gonna be taxed when it comes here. That means it's gonna be roughly 7500,- - We can refurbish the entire engine, that would set me back roughly 2500,- dollars. It would mean the engine would be as good as new. - We can replace the headgasket, a bit of belting, maybe a waterpump and small things only and pray there's nothing else we find. This shoud be doable for about 750,- - In any case the engine needs to be removed from and refitted to the car. One internet video tells us we should be looking at about 80 hours of work, maybe it's 40. My friend mechanic doesnt charge me top dollar but he dont work for free either. Plus during the entire time the car is under construction his garage will be occupied with Cadillac. Now I wouldnt mind that as its a Cadillac, but he does. Now after this all, I come back to my original question: now what!? What should I do? Are all my troubles coming from the headgasket? What's up with those 'pallets' everybody talks about that should be mixed with the coolant? What happens if you dont use those, will you exhaust leaks to your coolant by any chance? To go short do I NEED to replace the HG in order to solve my problems, would anybody say there is a chance I might still have the same problems when the repairs are done because i may have missed a very essential issue in maintanance somewhere? And what option of repair would you recommend? Go for the lower mileage block or instead for an overhaul of the original block? Is my block a 'good' one, or one that will spit out the bolts because of some crazy threading? the newer block or the original, would i still want to replace those bolts and use those mysterious 'inserts' or is there a better option and is it necessary? Can anybody realistically say how much time it would take to take out the engine and put it back in? And is this truly the only sensible way of repairing the HG? Ordering a new block is about the only thing I am willing to eliminate, but I am also willing to add buying an overhauled engine from the states, given the price is reasonable and shipment can be aranged, but will I have a no doubt about it excellent condition block, as warranty doesnt mean anything to me, I simply cant just send it back to have a look at it, simple as that. So than, for the diehards that took the time to read all this, my gratitude, I'm sorry for my bad English, it's hopefully more understandable than when I would have written it in Dutch, yet, my apologies, I wish you all happy and safe driving and if you can spare me any hints or tips, I'm very much looking forward to them and I'd be happy to add any information when I forgot some. Thanks in advance, greetings from Amsterdam and be well! Ron PS: My VIN has a '9' in the engine type digit.
  3. Have to give a shout-out to all the Cadillac Northstar owners who trust me to do great work and keeping me busy! Also to Bruce with the boat motor project that takes up the whole shop
  4. Finishing up a engine rebuild for a customer in NC. I had one more engine arrive for a head gasket and a lower reseal from MI. Thanks again for your support guys.
  5. I just want to introduce myself again my name is Brad Barczy owner of B & B Automotive LLC located in Indianapolis, IN. I have been working on Cadillac's and the Northstar powertrain since 1993 to present so 20 plus years, in business since March 2010. Along with the Cadillac head gasket repair, I also overhaul the 4T80E transmission and repair the P741, P1860 codes. I do install studs from CCC and rebuild these engines with a 18 month/ unlimited warranty on overheat. Its a one stop shop for me engines, engine overhauls, transmissions, HVAC, suspension, I do what I can to help people. I have been noticing a lot of cars with chemicals in the cooling system such as Thermagasket, Blue Devil, K & W block sealer and massive amounts of stop leak. These chemicals only make the job worse by taking out radiators, heater cores, excessive cleaning of cylinder walls where they crystalize in the webbing in the cylinders. These chemicals don't help period and if they do its only a band-aid on an ax wound. Put the money towards the repair of the car the correct way! My work is guaranteed for 18 month/unlimited miles and the price is 1800-2000 with studs being extra. Drilling of the block for inserts or studs, resealing the lower bearing case and thoroughly cleaning of all parts. Any questions please call or email me and I will get back to you ASAP and I will do what I can to help you guys out in here. Thanks again http://www.b-and-b-automotive.com 317-796-7857
  6. I hope I am posting in the right spot. I have a 1997 Eldorado ETC, 108K miles. It had a crack in the radiator upper right side. I replaced the radiator and tstat, but, its still overheating after about 15 miles. I have flushed the block and new radiator, cooling fans work, pass over not plugged. I have run it with and with out tstat. I am at wits end. All I can come up with is the heater core (which shows on signs of leakage) It has also developed a good miss, I think I need to replace a couple coils, no biggie, unless it is related to this. Any help or advise is GREATLY appreciated.
  7. I have a 1996 STS. 173K miles. The engine is solid, and over the last year I started having overheating issues. My mechanic said I had air in my system. So he bled the cooling system. He was working hard on bleeding the system. Too hard I felt. These cars are supposed to be self bleeding. So I was suspicious. We replaced the thermostat, twice. Car still ran hotter than it should. In stop and go traffic it would run up to 250--with the blower on full blast!! And going up hill it would actually hit red if I didn't turn the blower on. Long story short, after replacing the thermostat, checking the purge line repeatedly, replacing the water pump, my car still ran hotter than it should. One day I read about the heater core busting and coolant showing on the floor of another car. So I asked my mechanic to check out my heater core. We saw a little drip underneath the car, but there was nothing on my floor board. I told him to replace it anyway. Once that was replaced, the cooling system is running tip top! And when he go inside the dashboard and saw the core, he told me it was leaking. Now, my car never goes past the 195-220 mark in normal conditions. In traffic, without the blower on, it doesn't go past the 235 mark, and usually doesn't quote hit the 235 mark. In severe traffic, stop and go, and sitting, it doesn't go past 240ish - no blower on. I am writing this, because I expected to see coolant on the passenger side floor with a bad heater core. The fact is, your core could be compromised and not show signs, and that could be the cause of your overheating. Anyone with overheating issues, solid engine and cant solve their problems, take a look at your core. Adios