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Found 23 results

  1. I've been working on cars since age 11 and was happy to be given a 1999 Deville from a guy at church. He'd given up on it. Body and interior are in excellent condition. More brand new parts than you can shake a stick at. Down to brass tacks... It's overheating. The guy that owned it before me got it up to 250F. He pulled over and killed the engine. From that point and without his knowledge, it blew out the freeze plug from the head. I was able to fix that. I've never had a car run 205F-225F and be considered normal. I need to know how to keep this from getting over 190F - even if I have to rig/modify it. New water pump and belt. I had helped him wire the fans direct with a switch so we could control the on/off, thinking, hopefully that this would force the engine to run at about 165F-185F. I do realize the whole concept behind a thermostat is so that the engine can get water heat at one point to allow you to have better heat within the car. In some respects, even better running performance. After doing some research on this forum, it looks like I'm going to have to invest in some pipe cleaners. I have flushed the cooling system and went so far as to take the guts out of the thermostat so I could still use the rubber ring to keep it from leaking. Noticed some oil loss but there is no water going into the oil nor is there any water coming out of the tailpipe. I look forward to any comments and advice. Thank you in advance. God bless! Billy
  2. Hey y'all. Fresh meat here. I’m looking for some advice on a 1998 Cadillac Eldorado that is for sale near me for $3500. The vehicle has just over 71000 miles on it, has one of the Northstar V8 engines in it, and actually looks in fairly good shape (see linked image). But, as a poor college student that needs his ramen noodle funds, I’ve done my research to see if there’s a reason for the low price tag on such a neat looking vehicle. And I found it, maybe, and I’ve had some second thoughts. I’ve been reading around on a couple different sites and forums about the vehicle, and a concern of mine has been consistent on nearly each place I’ve gone; oil consumption/burning. In my travels, I have read that the NSV8 engine likes to burn about a quart or so of oil every 1000-1500 miles, and some owners have experienced more than that. However, I have also read that the engine is a High Performance Engine, which would explain why the sexy beast likes to drink. I’ve also spoken to some friends, one of which who works for GM and another who has a brother who owned two Northstar engines, and they both warned me pretty strongly to avoid the car. But, while I appreciate their advice, I’d like some more, if possible. I’d like y’alls advice as to whether or not, based on my situation, if this car will light my pretty much already empty wallet ablaze, or if it’ll be a good life decision. I really like Cadillacs since they look pretty sleek, and I really like the big motor in the car, so I’m more than happy with buying it and dealing with the minor headaches if I have to. With that said, here’s some background info; The vehicle is being sold for $3500. For me, this isn’t bad. Technically, I won’t even be paying for it. If I were to go through with the vehicle, I’d essentially be trading my current car for it. The only thing I’d have to buy would be oil for an oil change and any other little things for the basic check-up I give all of my new cars (brakes, anti-freeze, wipers, tires, washer fluid, etc). As mentioned, I’m a college kiddo. I also don’t particularly have a steady job, but I can work if need be so money isn’t exactly a fleeting dream. Everything right now is going to gas for transport, food, and living expenses. So an expensive car will likely be resold in about a week of me getting it. I already have a safe, reliable, and fully-paid off vehicle. The car I have is a 2002 Monte Carlo that I purchased actually just a few months ago when my tank of a Buick finally decided to start giving me issues. The Monte runs well and the only problems I’ve had so far is some anti-freeze leaking, a little bodywork needing to be fastened back down, and hard shifting if I don’t work the throttle correctly. The Monte also only has around 120k miles on it and looks decent. My Buick had 185k on it when we got it four-five years ago and I just switched cars with it at 210k. From what I read, the Northstar is a high performance engine, so it’s oil consumption is much higher and the beast under the hood has some punch to it. However, while some of you might use it to its full potential, I have an idea that I may not. I don’t really beat on my cars and if I do punch it, by god it’s for only about a quarter mile or so because I’ve already got my share of tickets. But, my commute is fairly short, and I have one other advantage; a motorcycle. So the engine might actually just fall right out from under my foot because of me not using it fully. My commute to and from school is about 20 miles of pretty much cruising at 50, so the distance I travel is pretty low. Even more, I only drive my car in bad and cold weather, as every other day I’m on the bike. Because of this, it actually takes quite a while for me to get any where near 1k miles on my car. I bought the Monte about two or three months ago and it’s only got about 200 miles more on the odometer. During the year, I travel about two to three times; once a year to Rochester, and once or twice out to Boston. From where I am, both places are about 150-200 miles out. And I only take the car if the weather looks potentially too rough for the motorcycle. So, TLDR; the Eldorado is going to be a bad weather/winter backup vehicle to my motorcycle. I won’t be putting a lot of miles onto it throughout the year and would be lucky to put 5k on it per year. I already have a reliable vehicle, so it’s not a ride-or-die situation for me, the vehicle is more of a “I WANT IT” sort of deal. However, if I get it and it guzzles oil on me, I don’t exactly have the funds to keep it in 100% good shape. 1 Quart every 1k miles should be manageable, but beyond that and HAHA there goes my ramen fund. I do have some mechanical know-how, so if there are big issues, I can generally figure it out. If I can’t, I’m not stubborn enough not to ask. With good instructions, I can figure most things out. SO THERE IT IS… I’m really hoping y’all can lend me your brains and advice with this. You guys are a lot more into Caddies than I am and I definitely think your advice will help me make the correct life decision. If you have any tips, hints, or advice, definitely let me know. Thanks everyone, I look forward to your responses. o7 --Saber
  3. I found a company that can reprogram the PCM in my 02 Eldorado, so now engine mods, swaps, tunes, cams, etc. are viable options. It's going to cost $2400-$2700 at a local shop specializing in the Northstar blown head gasket problem to have my engine repaired and oil leaks fixed depending upon how much I have them do to the car. They recommend upgrading to the head stud kit if I plan to add nitrous or a turbo: otherwise use the oversized bolts and inserts they keep in stock. The 4.4 superchargers are affordable in used condition. If they will bolt up in place of the stock 4.6 intake, then it's a no-brainer; we go supercharged. However, will the vacuum valve be enough to control the excessive boost pressures or do I have to use a computer and harness from the 4.4 to regulate it? If the 4.4 cams and/or heads will bolt up, then that is a possibility. However, I can buy a used low miles 4.4 supercharged motor for just over half of what it would cost to get my 4.6 repaired. I just don't know much about how the 4.4 SC motor is set up. Is it a coil-on-plug like mine? Will I have water pump relocation issues? How hard would it be to convert it to a transverse mount configuration? Are the nickle and dime parts and conversions going to cost over $1,000? Either way, the end result must be that my instrument cluster and climate control system functionality remains the same. I understand that the 4.4 is a much stronger block than the 4.6, but I also understand that the 4.6 can handle 1,000 h.p. I'd be happy with anything above 420 h.p. or close. Both options mentioned above would be cheaper than an LS4 swap and the N* would hold together longer than the LS. Decisions...... Who can give some good tech here; I'm stuck at the crossroads. Thanks Cody
  4. Hello folks I own a 1999 Cadillac Deville and I was told by my mechanic that I have a blown headgasket... We have tried using blue devil headgasket sealer which worked for about 1 day and then the overheating appeared again. I was quoted by my mechanic that the job to fix the engine would cost anywhere between 2500-5000 dollars depending on the severity of the damage. Coolant was replaced thermostat was replaced... unfortunately this did not fix the issue I rely on my Cadillac heavily for work and I need a inexpensive fix and fast one ASAP that will last me and not pillage my bank account so that I can continue working. if anyone has any advice on how and what I should do thanks...
  5. More information and photo's of the condition he left the man's Cadillac in after Carroll dropped it off at the Princeton, Texas, Walmart: http://victimsoftimcarroll.blogspot.com/2017/05/tim-carroll-sued-in-collin-county.html
  6. Hey guys I have an 04 srx v8 northstar. I just purchased it with a known misfire #7. I through a set of filters and ngk plugs and coils at it and now I only have a soft skip at idle. It gives me cylI Der number 8. I changed the plug coil and injector to different cylinder and no change. Also did compression and that was good. I have 15inhg vac at idle and needle jumps a little with the skip. If I unplug number 8 it gets much worse of skip. Fuel pressure running is 60. I left gauge on for the day taped to windshield and one trip into store it had dropped down to 15 psi in 30min. But only that one time. I did intake gaskets also. When doing that I noticed a few different cylinders had new valve seats. Front of motor is dirty so I'm assuming awhile ago it broke chain and eat some valves. But last owner was great guy and he had it from 80k to 110k when I bought it and knows nothing of it. I had the car stall today when going from reverse to drive and it gave me a good misfire after p0300 and p0308 and also a p0019. Not sure where to go at this point.thanks in advance
  7. Hello everyone, 96 Cadillac Northstar 4.6L Symptoms high idle and constant revv So I pulled the Intake manifold and coolant started to leak out of the bolt hole(Closest to plug 8) under the intake. Picture included, the leak will stop with the bolt hand tight with the intake off. No Codes. I am wondering is this a head gasket or something else? Would sealant be a bad idea? PS Picture I grabbed from the internet. My car is not this dirty
  8. Hi - it has been a while. I have had very little time to think about car stuff lately - even Cadillac stuff. I got married, defended my PhD, got a job, bought a house (I finally have a garage ), and very recently became a father. I still have the '97 DeVille, but it is now in need of some major renovations. There is oil going into the coolant (luckily not the other way around), misfiring, increased fuel consumption, high carbon monoxide levels in the exhaust, coolant consumption and so on. I am guessing a blown head gasket - certainly not something "less bad" - either way the engine will have to come out of the car and be swapped or completely remanufactured. The car has 200000 miles on the odometer and the transaxle has shown some signs of aging, namely sporadically dropping and rising engine RPM:s when coasting in 3:rd gear (as if the transmission slipped, although only when coasting). Given the mileage and cost of R&R:ing the powertrain, I would change or have the transmission remanufactured as well if I did the engine, even if it was not showing any signs of strange behavior. At the moment, the car sits in my garage and I have not actively started planning for repairs. Although it would be way more complicated than anything I have ever done on the car before, I would still have liked to do the work myself, but there is simply no way I can see that happening in the foreseeable future since I will not have the time. I do not want a ten-year dismounted car project... Given that I live in Sweden, my options for remanufactured Northstar engines and transmissions are far more limited than for those of you that live in North America. I still do not know exactly what options are available. At least there is a shop that works on these cars in my area that I have used over the years for other things. Any thoughts, recommendations or ideas? /Jonas
  9. Get off the wagon people! I have been working on these cars for 20 PLUS years from the conception in 1993. I have not had any issues with timeserts let alone NORMS inserts and I am not the only one obviously using these inserts. They work period and with the thousand of head gaskets let alone hundred or so rebuilds i have done without any issues. LEAD DON'T FOLLOW....
  10. I have. 1994 DeVille Concours and it recently turned 132,000 miles. I heard a clicking coming from the Idle air Control Valve after replacing it. I couldn't stop it so I decided to support my local dealer and dropped it off. They fixed the IAC valve and proceeded to flush my power steering system, this is where the trouble begins. I get a call from the dealer and the service advisor tells me he has bad news. "The car seriously overheated he tells me when the car is left idling for a while. I know you won't like this but your car suffered serious damage and may have warped one or both of the cylinder heads when your head gasket blew." He then asks for permission to start disassembling my engine so he can give me an estimate on the fix. I told him "no" , the car is not worth several thousands of dollars worth of work. In the beginning I had mentioned that the car seemed to be running hotter than normal, and what is considered normal? They did not test for carbon monoxide test until after the mechanic had "severely overheated your car". The dealer has decided not to charge me for the diagnostics and the power steering flush. My bill is about $700, why would they be so eager to eat that? The dealer tells me that the car "should" make it home and might be good for A year or two. They said that the blown head gasket isn't bad enough to keep me from driving the car. He suggested that I not drive through any deserts.. In my world a head gasket is either Blown or Not Blown, what is a blown engine to a dealer? 1.What do I do now? 2.Can a head gasket blow allowing combustion gases into the anti-freeze without oil in the antifreeze or antifreeze in the combustion chamber? 3. How bad is this problem? The dealer said I was lucky to go 132k miles without other problems. 4. How do you protect yourself from dealer mistakes? 5. Do I hire a lawyer or what? 6. Is there any fix for this problem? 7. I am a pretty good mechanic and have replaced heads before. Is there a particular place where these engines blow their head gaskets? 8. If I reduce the engine operating temperature by using a good water wetter and maybe a lower thermostat like a 185 and really good coolant. I would also use lower settings for the fan relay driver. 9. Should I try to fix the head gaskets or will they blow again? Any thought or ideas are absolutely welcome. I remember my original dealer telling me that the "Northstar" engines were designed to run hundreds of thousands of miles. As an engineer I believed the baloney as the engine looked good as was strong enough to push my 1994 Seville STS to a 14 second quarter mile. What when wrong? Why doesn't Cadillac protect their image? I bought the STS first and the DeVille second, they are both Northstars What do I do? Help me please!
  11. STS

    As I promised first patch of my Cadillacs photos: More to come...
  12. Hello all, I'm new here, Been with Bruce in Google+ circle for a while now, but never participated in any chats till today, and finally decided to create a Caddyinfo.com account. about me: Late 20s guy, Network engineer, Just got my master from DePaul University in IS-DBA, enthusiast photographer and all tech guy. always been a car enthusiast, Currently a proud owner of 09 STS4 1SG and 05 SRX4 base, Recently sold my "landboat" a beautiful 03 DeVille black on black with 185,000+ with near mint condition exterior, I do my own repairs almost all the time unless its the transmission then i'm completely useless, anyway, if you have a Google+ circle and want to add me please go ahead, I have created a circle for caddy owners a while back and it's slowly growing, if you want I can share that circle with you too. google.com/+mjkubba MJ
  13. I hope I am posting in the right spot. I have a 1997 Eldorado ETC, 108K miles. It had a crack in the radiator upper right side. I replaced the radiator and tstat, but, its still overheating after about 15 miles. I have flushed the block and new radiator, cooling fans work, pass over not plugged. I have run it with and with out tstat. I am at wits end. All I can come up with is the heater core (which shows on signs of leakage) It has also developed a good miss, I think I need to replace a couple coils, no biggie, unless it is related to this. Any help or advise is GREATLY appreciated.
  14. I am new to the forum, I bought the most beautiful 95 El Dorado with 126k on it. I got a great deal on it and assumed that it has a blown head gasket. I am continuing to get bubbles into the overflow tank and of course it overheats after a short while. I did run the exhaust gas test blue liquid at the radiator over flow tank for several minutes and it never turns yellow. I am going to try this test again to make sure i did not contaminate the test. I have read that someone said something about a purge tube or something regarding the bubbles. Not sure where that is, but i will locate it. I did pull plugs and run the car and it seems like the bubbles did slow down when a few of the plugs were pulled. But it just does not add up that i don't see exhaust gases in the dye test. Thankful, but just don't understand these amazing motors. I come to the experts asking for advice on this beautiful car.
  15. This question is about a 1997 Cadillac DeVille with the 275 Hp version of the Northstar engine. As part of my regular inspection routine, I checked the coolant a few days ago, and it looked somewhat strange. Today, with a 200-mile trip since I first noticed the strange look of the coolant, i checked it again, and it looks like there is oil in the coolant. Not very much, but just a few drops visible in the surge tank, and a some traces of it on the plastic tab/ridge that sits right under the surge tank cap. - The coolant level has not changed, and the engine oil looks normal (light brown and clear). - The transmission fluid was clear and red. - All fluids smelled like they usually do. - The coolant system pressurizes like normal, and holds pressure like normal. - I check these things every now and then, so I have a pretty good idea of the normal state of things. Checking my radiator, I found that: - On the passenger's side, there are two unused connections in the side tank. - On the driver's side, there are two connections in the side tank that have narrow steel tubes going out of them. I could not see where they went from there. - In front of the radiator (and AC radiator) there was a small steel radiator comprising a steel tube that was bent twice (so as to form three parallel lines) and cooling fins (also steel) that were attached to the three parallel lines of steel tubing. I have not found any information on what this is, and I could not see where the lines went. In the 1997 FSM, I found the following conflicting information: Page 6-193, under Radiator Replacement: 8. Disconnect the engine oil cooler lines from the right radiator end tank. 9. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the left radiator end tank. Page 6-197, under Radiator Assembly: "... The right side end tank houses the transmission oil cooler. The let side end tank houses the engine oil cooler. ..." This was accompanied by a numbered illustration, which denoted the end tank cooler on the side with the drain plug, which is the driver's side, as the engine oil cooler, and the end tank cooler on the other side (passenger's side) as the transmission oil cooler (consistent with the text on the same page, but in conflict with the text on page 193). Some additional information: - I change my coolant with two-year intervals, with the last change almost two years ago (I plan on changing it by the end of summer). I always use DexCool plus deionized water and add two GM sealant tabs after draining the system (since I only drain and refill without flushing, some of the old coolant stays, hence only two pellets and the biannual change interval). - The engine operating temperature during my last 300 miles of driving (as well as the 80000 miles that I have driven before that) was normal (about 196 F when cruising, rising a bit when going from highway to city driving and falling a few degrees during WOT (I guess as a result of the increased coolant flow at the higher RPM)). - It is currently warm were I live, about 80 F, so the AC is running, but I have always seen the same engine temperature behavior whether it is 80 or -10 F outside. Always about 196 F when cruising, going up a bit when going from highway to city and going down a few degrees after WOT (has been the same for the nine years I have had the car). Some questions: - Do I have a transmission or engine oil cooler in my driver's side radiator end tank? - What is the small and simple cooler that sits in front of my radiator? - What could be possible causes for the oil in the coolant? - Is there a possibility that there is also coolant in the oil, but since coolant is heavier than oil, it sits at the bottom of the oil pan without causing any visible signs on the dipstick or under the oil filling cap? I guess that the oil pick up does not sit right at the very bottom of the pan, but slightly above it. I am asking this because if oil is pushed into the coolant system when the engine is on, coolant might be pushed in the other direction when the engine is switched off, since the cooling system remains pressurized for a while, while the oiling system looses pressure immediately when the engine is not running. Thanks in advance, Jonas
  16. Here's the deal, my 97 northstar has been getting hot and not sure what to do. Replaced the thermostat, did not get a flush kit but drained the system and ran a ton of water through it with a hose. It has been doing ok at highway speeds. I can drive like half an hour on the highway and then come to a stoplight and sit and the temp starts rising and my oil pressure light flashes off and on. Seems to overheat at a a stand still. on the other hand, i started it and let it idle for 30 minutes in the driveway and it was fine. Oil is not milky so I do not think this is related to head gasket problems. Now I am at a loss. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
  17. The Engine Surgery

    The Northstar in the 1997 Eldorado developed a compression problem in number 8. A leak-down test revealed that the intake valve is causing the problem. A Caddyinfo Supporter will pick up the car in a few days and pull the front head. What we do from there depends on exactly what we find. Expectations are that we will do a valve job and put it back together. Watch this space for developments. This is a collaborative DIY project with multiple Caddyinfo participants. As such, progress is subject to availability of time, and there will be deliberations and discussions that usually won't be publicly posted. Please be patient with this Topic.
  18. Hello. My 1994 Eldorado ETC (4.6 Northstar) was showing a CEL and throwing P094, P095 and P076 codes. I replaced the A and B solenoids, reset the codes and test drove. The P094 and P095 codes are gone and have stayed gone. However, the CEL came back on almost immediately and the P076 code is still there. The car will not shift into third or fourth. It shifts only from first to second. HOWEVER, if I clear the PCM codes and leave the diagnostic function engaged, the car shifts fine. When I take it out of diagnostic mode (pressing defrost) the car immediately goes back into second. I have the pressure solenoid and will put it in, but I got to thinking that there may be an electrical issue I am missing since I can apparently override the "malfunctioning" pressure solenoid by leaving the diagnostic mode engaged. Anyone have any clues? Many thanks in advance!
  19. Just letting you guys know I am here still doing HG repair on Cadillac Northstar engines, and overhauls too. I am located in the NE part of Indianapolis, IN and have an EBAY ad under northstar head gasket repair. I have done hundreds of these engine in my 20 year career and have had no issues period! I have 75 references from yesterday to 4 years ago, from Indianapolis to NY, OK, TX. 1800 is my price with a 18 month/UNLIMITED MILE warranty . Thanks Brad Barczy http://www.b-and-b-automotive.com/
  20. Hello, I have a 2001 DeVille for sale with only 57k miles. Northstar V8, cloth seats, all four heated and back only heated seats, electric everything, On-star ready. Great car but I would like to see it go to someone who appreciates Cadillacs. I live in San Diego and will not ship the car but it is ready to be any distance if you want to pick it up yourself. Asking $6950 You can email me with any questions or to get more photos: Dnesselroth@hotmail.com
  21. There are oxygen sensors that control the fuel delivery and there are those that check catalytic converter function. I sometimes get the engine light turn on when it is cold, with codes that tell me that the heating is not working properly in the O2 sensors (PCM 0135 and 0155). Those codes are for the O2 sensors in the manifolds (one for each cylinder bank). I am now about to replace those two O2 sensors, and I have two questions: What is the difference between AFS109 and AFS125? Both have the following (identical) description on Rockauto: SENSOR,HTD OXY(POSN 1) IN EXH MANIFOLD/CROSSOVER. They have different prices. Is there any reason to replace the other two O2 sensors (one on each side of the catalytic converter)? Even if they were a bit "tired", that should still not effect engine performance in any way, correct? Only the two in the manifolds are involved in the closed-loop engine control, right?
  22. I just brought a '97 D'elegance yesterday for $1,000 in Maryland. It overheats almost immediately. Every time I drive it the temperature shoots up pretty fast around 244F in about 5-10 minutes or so. What did I get myself into? I think I got got. Oh well. What are some fixes? I dumped $135, for a battery, $240 for MDTags, $10 for tool kit to put in battery and tags, $ 368 for 1st and last months insurance. As well as the $1,000 for the car. I'm felling stubborn. I want to make it work. I refuse to just have wasted almost $2,000 in less than 24hrs!
  23. Im the guy who purchase a beautiful 99 black STS in Denver that had a horrible knock due to the previous owner not caring the car. Well, get this. I found a beautiful actually brand new (2,100) miles on a "9" Northstar. Bought the beauty from a the service guy at Don Massey Cadillac, got it for only 1,100.00. It was still in the crate. Had it hauled down to my mechanic a GM mechanic for installation. The engine is a 2001 and asked my friend and service manager at Rickenbaugh Cadillac if 2001 "9" would fit in a 99. He called me back and said it would. Great. I get a call from my mechanic and he informs me that the engine is good and all, but its for a 2001 DTS and he cannot put it in. He said it matches exactly except an area behind the oil pan. The old engine is out, the new isnt installed and I suppose I'll have to sell the 2,100 mile engine and TRY and find a northstar that will fit. ARGH! Does anyone have an idea that would help me with my problem?? Signed, Yikes.