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Found 31 results

  1. Hi all, First off I'm SO very happy I found this forum, I live in Amsterdam, The Netherlands and a Cadillac here is a bit of an Al Capone boat, no matter her age or model, most American cars are, but Cadillac.. that's only something from movies. BUT... I got myself about 1 year ago the real deal, a 2002 Deville in, I must say, mint condition, inside and out. No complaints exept for the radio that didnt do 'our' frequencies (or rather 50% of the fm frequencies, we use odd frequencies as well, the original radio only does even, or the other way around?). So replaced it with a nice pioneer digital radio with the proper interfaces to keep everything original. I love that car! In order to spoil her, I asked a friend mechanic to give it an overhaul, new fluids, new sparkplugs (they were ANCIENT), flush the coolant etc. First thing to pop was a coil, i guess it couldnt handle the new sparks, ordered a new one and all was fine. Until a few weeks later BOOM, it overheated. A quick look learned coolant was VERY low. Later I realised this was probably just an airbubble, as I started reading online about engine problems on the Deville. Yes, I am guilty as charged as not to bring it to a certified or at least experienced Cadillac shop, but keep in mind the closest one to find easilly is about 2.500miles from here: in the States, So from here on clouds drew over my Obamobile as it was commonly refered to last year (dont want to offend anyone, but I think it sounded better than 'Trumpette' as I heard someone called my baby ). In the weeks that follow things got from the temperature going thru half-way just a bit at a stoplight after a highway tour in the beginning, to sweaty and tensioned drives the past days as temperature is absolute iradic. CHECK COOLANT LEVEL was in my display ever since I bought her, so I decided to order a new reservoir with sensor so at least i could see what was going on and didnt have to check the level before a drive. That worked... for bit. Now I still check the level and fill her to the right level, close her up and start driving. About 2 minutes down the road the dash will tell me again to check the level. Here's what a typical drive now looks like for me: - I adjust the coolant if necessary, when cold the system is always under pressure. I assume that's normal. (is it?) Usually she agrees the level is ok for about 5, 6 minutes of drive (temperature raised about 1/4). - When I pull up for gas (also common on 4.6L engines i guess) and continue my drive, the level usually remains satisfactory to her, but not always. - I drive for good 20 minutes (Holland is not very big fortunately), when i dont meet any stoplights things should be good, when i need to stop, I keep my fingers crossed that dreaded needle wont go up. It goes down again as i proceed to drive. Than I stop the car and do my bussiness, so far, no problems. - I get back and halfway home, so that's about 10 minutes on the highway, temperature may go up to a level where i need to pull over and let the car cool, cuz I dont want the teperature to go in the red. Thusfar it happend to me one she told me she had turned off my a/c because her engine was hot. - When times are bad I may have to repeat those steps, when i dont rev above 2000rpm she thusfar remains fairly under control, but in the last 10 minutes to home i may have to pause 2 or 3 times to let her cool. The other day the last stop I made settled her mind, as temperature ran down to normal and as I parked she was happy as a if I had given her a box of chocolate.Temperature fine, no faults, she didnt even drain my gastank. - I go inside, do my 20 minutes of prayers and say my Hail Cadillac's and prepare for the next trip. So... My mechanic friend tested the coolant for illegal substances and we found that she's been smoking, as Co2 was found. Now you all know smoking weed is legal here but I never caught her doing any, so we came to the conclusion her head gasket was blown. So... what to do now? I have been reading and viewing youtube movies about horror stories on northstar engines, oh my, at times i get the feeling the Northstar engine is the absolute worst engine anybody ever built in the entire automobile history.. there's bolts that just pop out, entire blocks have cracks in it from front to end, they gobble up gaskets like there's no tomorrow and if you're lucky this all happens after about 10.000 miles of driving! Fortunately I know the People of The Internet have a way of over-exaggerating things and there are, so i understand 3 model northstar's, so probably it's not as bad as it looks. BUT... I need to repair my car. I love her too much to dispose of her because of this. Here's what we take into consideration given what we read and found reasonable to be true and our geographical location: - Parts for the Deville we can order online from rockauto, they are relatively inexpensive (particulary compared to european parts) and are here within 2 to 3 weeks, no problem. - The engine did at least 275.000km's up until today. - We can buy the same block at a junkyard, supposedly ran 100.000km, but we're never sure. It was a crash car so we can asume it's a fair engine for it's age and mileage. Still, it's 15 years old and did 100.000km's. It sells for say 1500 dollars. - We can buy a new longblock for roughly 4500,- dollars plus the little extra's you'll always end up needing. But it also needs shipment and it's gonna be taxed when it comes here. That means it's gonna be roughly 7500,- - We can refurbish the entire engine, that would set me back roughly 2500,- dollars. It would mean the engine would be as good as new. - We can replace the headgasket, a bit of belting, maybe a waterpump and small things only and pray there's nothing else we find. This shoud be doable for about 750,- - In any case the engine needs to be removed from and refitted to the car. One internet video tells us we should be looking at about 80 hours of work, maybe it's 40. My friend mechanic doesnt charge me top dollar but he dont work for free either. Plus during the entire time the car is under construction his garage will be occupied with Cadillac. Now I wouldnt mind that as its a Cadillac, but he does. Now after this all, I come back to my original question: now what!? What should I do? Are all my troubles coming from the headgasket? What's up with those 'pallets' everybody talks about that should be mixed with the coolant? What happens if you dont use those, will you exhaust leaks to your coolant by any chance? To go short do I NEED to replace the HG in order to solve my problems, would anybody say there is a chance I might still have the same problems when the repairs are done because i may have missed a very essential issue in maintanance somewhere? And what option of repair would you recommend? Go for the lower mileage block or instead for an overhaul of the original block? Is my block a 'good' one, or one that will spit out the bolts because of some crazy threading? the newer block or the original, would i still want to replace those bolts and use those mysterious 'inserts' or is there a better option and is it necessary? Can anybody realistically say how much time it would take to take out the engine and put it back in? And is this truly the only sensible way of repairing the HG? Ordering a new block is about the only thing I am willing to eliminate, but I am also willing to add buying an overhauled engine from the states, given the price is reasonable and shipment can be aranged, but will I have a no doubt about it excellent condition block, as warranty doesnt mean anything to me, I simply cant just send it back to have a look at it, simple as that. So than, for the diehards that took the time to read all this, my gratitude, I'm sorry for my bad English, it's hopefully more understandable than when I would have written it in Dutch, yet, my apologies, I wish you all happy and safe driving and if you can spare me any hints or tips, I'm very much looking forward to them and I'd be happy to add any information when I forgot some. Thanks in advance, greetings from Amsterdam and be well! Ron PS: My VIN has a '9' in the engine type digit.
  2. My 1982 coupe Deville started bogging out like it's not getting enough fuel or it like chokes itself out. After trying to start it up it would not start. So I changed the spark plugs and wires and car started up again, only to die off after a couple of seconds. So I figured I wasn't getting fuel. So I changed the fuel filter and it started but it runs really rough and shakes terrible. Shut the car off and I noticed smoke out the passenger side window. I looked under the car to see where smoke was coming from and the catalytic converter was glowing red and very hot? Don't know where to begin in fixing my car. Can someone please help
  3. Hello all, I have not made a post on this site before. I hope this thread works here because I can't find a "For Sale" Forum here. I have a 2002 DeVille DHS for sale. It really is only a parts car at this point. The only thing of value is the Engine. Here is the info on the car that I know. 250,000 Mile (Read below about recent engine work) Beige/Gold in Color with the Simulated Soft top Transmission was replaced at about 150K miles but it is throwing the P0741 Code and has recently started slipping. Would trust to drive anywhere.(have dealer ticket showing work done) Head Gaskets replaced in Feb 2016 with only 5K miles put on car since then. (Have Dealer Ticket showing work) Engine leaks oil from Oil Level Sensor and Rear Main Engine is Strong with no hint of bottom end knock Body panels all in good shape with only the occasional door dings. Other items I know are bad: Needs front Struts (does not have ride control on front), Bad front passenger bearing, Bad Driver side CV shaft, Check engine light is on showing the P0741, code for Idle Air Pump, MAF Sensor performance, and Fuel Guage not working. Climate control mode door does not work. The car left me stranded while traveling for work and is currently setting off of Interstate 79 between Erie and Pittsburgh. I live in the Eastern Panhandle of WV. I don't feel like the car is worth me towing back home. Looking to see if anyone in Western PA has a need for a parts car. Engine is solid and would be a good donor for a car with a bad engine. I am pretty sure the car is worth more than what the nearest salvage yard is willing to give me for it. Thanks
  4. Rear relay boxes

    Hello I have a base 97 deville and simply need to know what each of the relays in the trunk control I have one small relay center behind the passenger rear seat and bother larger on the back of the drier rear seat ?
  5. There are times when a project loses its luster, becomes too much of a burden to finish, the build time has stretched out too long or the owner has added up the total costs involved and decided it isn’t worth it. Such is the case with this ’55 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. Roger Jetter purchased the rough failed remains. He’d been working on a ’48 Cadillac Sedanet but decided this hardtop could be finished in less time http://dailyrubber.com/one-mans-junk-another-mans-treasure-custom-55-cadillac-coupe-deville/
  6. 1962 Cadillac Restoration

    Junk Box Mike Calvert 1962 Cadillac DeVille Restoration Started in 2015; Lulu lived in a friends barn for 19 years. After a couple of years working on making her mine and getting her home, Its time to start the real work!
  7. Hi Folks, My name is Jim, I'm happy to be a new member of the Caddy lovers club! I'm 54, been a caddy lover since my teens when my dad got his 4th or 5th caddy. In my 20s He came across a beautiful late 60s red convertible with a white leather interior which he slapped some plates on & let me take her for a ride to have my tooth pulled. He neglected/forgot to tell me the brakes were non existent brakes (master cylinder) so I used the emergency brake, made it to the dentist & home! Ever since that & my dad's subsequent Cadillacs I've been hooked on em. I've had 3 or 4 Devilles & I currently own a 97 I've had for 3 years. It has 214,000 miles on it. It was not well maintained, unfortunately. Most Cadillacs are big, solid built cars that have great comfort, quality motors & I feel safe having my wife drive one with our kids in the car. That was a funny post about trading the Caddy in for a Daewoo! I have a 2002 Nubiro that's a piece of, you know. That topic post was from 2004 I think. Anyways here's my situation. My 97 Deville 4.6 Nothstar Y is bubbling over 251-260 degrees. I have leaks in the pressure tank & have ordered a new one. My question to you experts out there is the leaking tank enough to cause overheating due to loss of pressure? I am not a mechanic though I can remove & replace parts, swap motors, etc. but I'm not a cooling system guru! I am concerned it may be a head gasket issue. I checked the exauste pipe, no moisture. Oil & coolant are clean, purge pipe open, water pump ok(replaced last year & removed cover to check), new stat, good hoses. I have not been able to perform a pressure test not have I checked for combustion gases yet. I think it's the pressure tank leak (at the filler neck & at the purge hose) causing overheating & certainly loss of coolant? Can you guys help me out please? Thank you!!
  8. I have a 1990 Deville 4.5L 4D sedan I picked up about a week ago, the car has been garaged most of its life and the mileage just rolled over 101,000. Before I picked up this car I know it had been sitting outside a garage for about 6-9 months, and was filled with bee's. Just before I picked up the car they replaced the distributor, spark plugs and plug wires, replaced the main gasket on the bottom of the transmission, changed the tranny oil, charged the battery, and topped off the other fluids. I have run a few oz of seafoam through the brake booster vacuum line to help clear out the cylinders and what not. The the car runs very rough still, it has a very rough idle from cold start and has very little power at low RPMS. Occasionally while at speed it seems to have power at low RPM's, not too often. It had about 5 gallons of 6 month old gas in it when I picked it up, I added some gas treatment to extend the shelf life of the gas, and filled it up with new gasoline. I think im currently getting about 8 mpg with the way its running, half town half freeway driving. The body and interior are in great shape, and for only 101k miles on it I feel like I can breathe some life into this car and bring it up shape. I pulled the codes off the diagnostics on the console and got as follows: ..e. E30 E32 E52 E98 ..f. F47 .f.f. F47. I looked up a code index and didnt really know what they all meant, maybe you could give me some pointers. I may be American, but this car is Foreign to me. on top of it running very rough It seems to have some electrical problems, The drivers windows doesnt move, and the other 3 windows will only roll down but they will not roll up without gently pulling on them and guiding them up while you hold the button down. It seems to have some electrical drain somewhere, like all the components are getting enough juice. Even the cigarette lighter can only seem to get the lighter to heat up half way. I have disconnected the stereo, as I was told that was draining the battery and it might kill the battery over night. Im new to the forum and was hoping to get some pointers here, thanks!
  9. Hi guys - its been a few months, but I'm having another issue that to me, seems odd, and I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this? I've got an 02 Deville, and the driver's side, front window goes down fine, but when I try to raise the window, it goes VERY slowly for 5 or 6 seconds, and then speeds up to normal speed. I obviously assumed that the motor was getting tired and that it was straining when the most torque was needed, however we've had some rain over the past week, and I've noticed that the window raises at normal speed whenever it rains. As soon as it dries up, it goes back to creeping its way up, and when it again rains, it again works fine. I then thought that maybe the seals were too tight or something, and tried holding back the weather-strips to see if the window would raise normally, but no, it wouldn't. Is there any reason that a motor would work properly when its raining out?? Thanks
  10. Hello, I have a 1997 Deville, 84k miles, beautiful car. It ran great on the test drive, but after getting it home, and sitting overnight, it didn't want to start the next morning. After cranking for awhile, it eventually, and reluctantly started, and ran great after warmup. I did notice that the exhaust seemed VERY rich. I have since replaced the plugs, wires, added seafoam to the gas tank twice, and it has more power, and runs GREAT after starting, however it still doesn't want to start right away after sitting overnight, but will restart just fine once it's been running, or after the initial start. I wondered if, before putting lots of new parts in hoping to correct the starting problem, the coils could be at fault, or, maybe more likely could the ignition control module be bad? Or should I consider something else could be at fault? By the way, the service engine soon light does work, however is not illuminated....but before I did the tune up, it did come on momentarily (twice) before I did the tune up and added the seafoam. Any advice would be helpful, I love this car! Thank you!
  11. Hello , my 99 el dorado recently ran hot at 77000 miles. I don't know how hot and don't know a lot about engines but believe the head gaskets blown , coolant can be seen in the oil . I was told that I could replace the engine with the engine out of my 03 deville that has been deemed un fixable due to electronic problems . It would crank but not stay cranked . The engines are the same so I am told but does anyone know of any other reasons or problems I am going to run into trying to swap these engines ? any advice much appreciated . Thanks !
  12. Hello, I Recently bought a Cadillac deville from a private party and everything was working fine (well except the gas indicator. it wld appear full all the time and out of nowhere the car shut down from running out of gas, but thats another issue for later though) So later on today, in about 4 hrs to be exact, i have to drive 5.2 hrs, so i went to fill up on gas, and as soon as im done pumping and start the car, i get the "Service stability sys" warning and my "ABS" "BRAKE" & "TRACTION CONTROL" lights come and stay on. So I parked and shut down the car, read the little booklet that came with it, turned the car back on since it told me to try that and the message was still there. So i looked online and found a forum that somewhat talked about my issue and it told me to look up the codes and so i did and here's what i got: - ABS : C1214 Current : C1248 Current - IPM : B0419 History : B0429 Current : B1004 History - IRC : U1064 History : U1016 History - PCM : P0463 History : P1617 History - RIM : C0658 History - SDM : B0041 Current If you know anything about this please let me know as soon as possible how to fix it or at least let me know if i should take this trip or not.
  13. I have. 1994 DeVille Concours and it recently turned 132,000 miles. I heard a clicking coming from the Idle air Control Valve after replacing it. I couldn't stop it so I decided to support my local dealer and dropped it off. They fixed the IAC valve and proceeded to flush my power steering system, this is where the trouble begins. I get a call from the dealer and the service advisor tells me he has bad news. "The car seriously overheated he tells me when the car is left idling for a while. I know you won't like this but your car suffered serious damage and may have warped one or both of the cylinder heads when your head gasket blew." He then asks for permission to start disassembling my engine so he can give me an estimate on the fix. I told him "no" , the car is not worth several thousands of dollars worth of work. In the beginning I had mentioned that the car seemed to be running hotter than normal, and what is considered normal? They did not test for carbon monoxide test until after the mechanic had "severely overheated your car". The dealer has decided not to charge me for the diagnostics and the power steering flush. My bill is about $700, why would they be so eager to eat that? The dealer tells me that the car "should" make it home and might be good for A year or two. They said that the blown head gasket isn't bad enough to keep me from driving the car. He suggested that I not drive through any deserts.. In my world a head gasket is either Blown or Not Blown, what is a blown engine to a dealer? 1.What do I do now? 2.Can a head gasket blow allowing combustion gases into the anti-freeze without oil in the antifreeze or antifreeze in the combustion chamber? 3. How bad is this problem? The dealer said I was lucky to go 132k miles without other problems. 4. How do you protect yourself from dealer mistakes? 5. Do I hire a lawyer or what? 6. Is there any fix for this problem? 7. I am a pretty good mechanic and have replaced heads before. Is there a particular place where these engines blow their head gaskets? 8. If I reduce the engine operating temperature by using a good water wetter and maybe a lower thermostat like a 185 and really good coolant. I would also use lower settings for the fan relay driver. 9. Should I try to fix the head gaskets or will they blow again? Any thought or ideas are absolutely welcome. I remember my original dealer telling me that the "Northstar" engines were designed to run hundreds of thousands of miles. As an engineer I believed the baloney as the engine looked good as was strong enough to push my 1994 Seville STS to a 14 second quarter mile. What when wrong? Why doesn't Cadillac protect their image? I bought the STS first and the DeVille second, they are both Northstars What do I do? Help me please!
  14. I have a 2003 cadillac deville dts battery not charging came on display drove car for 3 days thinking it would correct itself, Dash light come and go randomly, PCM? Car finally died 3 days later after dash lights started dancing and dash went black/dead. Took car to autozone they said it was a bad battery i knew it was the alternator bought a new battery and an alternator from o'rileys. Changed alternator car is running good. Heres the thing drl's not on/working when they used to automatically come on any other time. Anytime i turn my lights, turn signals or ac on car stalls and dies. Brake lights function normally. only issue is when i try those 3 features the car dies. So i cant drive at night only daytime. I have not made any changes that require power to the car. Only mods i have done are replace door speaker(not component) and ran the blown rear DVC sub lines to 2 SVC 10' pyle subs. No after market deck or amp. ANy help is appreciated. There have been no major issues with the car and it has 135k on it I recently did a round trip to new orleans. Ryan
  15. Hello Caddy Enthusiats!!!! I would like to keep things short and simple. My question today is what part(s) should be replaced based on the DTC codes that are pulled from my car? I have a 95 DeVille Concours. The codes are as follows: P035 P036 P039 P040 S010 S011 S012 S015 S016 S017 S021 S022 S025 S027 S030 S031 S035 S037 S044 S051 S060 S061 Any input would be greatly appreciated and I would like to thank everybody in advance for their suggestions. Thanx!!!
  16. Ok just found out my pretty 1985 coupe DeVille almost mint condition now has a blown head gasket. I did research and found out these 4100 v8 motors are known for this problem. My issue now is that I don't know what price to sell it for. I bypassed the heater core so it's going to need that. The power windows have issues with going up and down and of course the head gasket. It has 125,000 miles on it, was running great. Transmission has no problem,the body and Interior of the car is beautiful absolutely no rust. Its a good solid car it just needs those things fixed or possibly if you find a motor to drop in it would be better. I would but I can't afford to do it. I wanna try and get as much out of it as I can as well as see it go to a good home. I'm only the third owner. The guy I bought it from got it from his mother who bought it brand new in 85 I'm just wondering how much I should sell it for or what I would get out of it. I don't wanna scrap it. Please help me out here guys!
  17. I have a 98 Deville with a 4.6L v8 northstar. About a week ago, my car overheated. Let it cool down and turns out, all my water was gone! So, I found out that once the car gets up to running temp, pressure is pushing water out of the overflow tube, (there is only one reservoir with a tube right by the cap) untill there is no water left! Checked my oil, it's clean so I'm hoping it's not a faulty head gasket. But I think its weird that water is just coming right back out? Somebody please help me.. This car is the love of my life, but if I'm looking at over $3,000 in labor cause of a HG I think it's time to say goodbye. So someone please give me some good news!!! Also, it's not the thermostat. Just replaced that today.
  18. Hi all. I am looking to part out my 1996 Cadillac Deville gold wreath package. The car has been wonderful to me but the rust has gotten the best of it and the torque convertor is gone. prices are very reasonable. Interior parts are in very good shape. switches are good. Anything you might need just throw me a message and I will let you know if I have it. I also have some parts from my 1996 eldorado, including black sun visors Dual type. roof console(astroroof one) Climate control unit. U1L stereo. and information system unit. Center shifter trim with heated seat switch. plastic. Prices are negotiable. Thanks for listing
  19. Hello all, I'm new here, Been with Bruce in Google+ circle for a while now, but never participated in any chats till today, and finally decided to create a Caddyinfo.com account. about me: Late 20s guy, Network engineer, Just got my master from DePaul University in IS-DBA, enthusiast photographer and all tech guy. always been a car enthusiast, Currently a proud owner of 09 STS4 1SG and 05 SRX4 base, Recently sold my "landboat" a beautiful 03 DeVille black on black with 185,000+ with near mint condition exterior, I do my own repairs almost all the time unless its the transmission then i'm completely useless, anyway, if you have a Google+ circle and want to add me please go ahead, I have created a circle for caddy owners a while back and it's slowly growing, if you want I can share that circle with you too. google.com/+mjkubba MJ
  20. My 96 Deville keeps overheating.. I've tested the heads for leaks.. passed. changed the tstat twice. put new radiator hoses. flushed the radiator and the engine. This has been over the corse of 3 weeks. everytime i change a part or add new fluid she runs fine for two days an then will not cool down. fans work properly, no leaks. When it runs hot the hoses are full af fluid and tight as if there is no circulation hense the change of the tstat.. like i said, ran fine for 2 days and did the same thing. tried flushing the system thinking there was a clog but again, after i was done she ran fine for a day and a half an overheated again. Tomorrow I'm suppose to change the water pump?? Any advise before i start this procedure? Pls? Jay.. bka.. rotwyla. thanks in advance.
  21. Hi! Im new on here and need help. My cadi has been running fine until recently, hence the reason im on here asking for help. It all started when I was on a long drive when I found that the car decided to loose power. I did a tune up and after everything has been changed, decided to stall when I would start her up. Never happened before. Well a week later, as im driving on the freeway at 70 mph, she decides to lose power. While going to the shoulder she turns off on me. After I put her in park, she cranks but no start. At first, I thought it was something like the fuel sensor or pump, but when I did a diagnostic, she came back with e41, e52, and e55. The e41 has been fixed, so as I went to reset the codes, the e55 remained and she is doing the same thing. Can anyone give me an insight on what it can be??
  22. 2005 Suspension question

    I have a base model 2005 Deville that I have recently acquired. The car is in great mechanical shape but I have questioned the suspension on it. When I first start the car I hear the suspension in the back doing its thing, but I have noticed that when there are people in the back or the trunk is full the car sags. Shouldn't the ride height remain the same no matter what? I guess I am comparing it to a Lincoln Town Car air suspension, are they the same or different? Any info is appreciated. Thank you.
  23. My son just bought his first car, 87 Deville Sedan. Motor and Transmission sound, Interior very good (needs a new headliner). Body very good, no rust, one 'crunch' driver-side rear roof-side area (hard to describe, lol) nothing some bondo can't repair, some faded paint areas. He only paid $600. The major issue is NONE of the windows will roll down. Previous owner says he replaced the motor on drivers side, didn't work. We have checked the breaker it is fine (switched the breaker with the horn breaker, horn still blows) It seems odd to me that all motors would be bad at same time, and if previous owner did replace motor, seems that would rule out the problem. Is there a relay somewhere, if so, anyone know where? A picture would be great as I'm more a visual learner or a step-by-step instruction as I'm pretty much car illiterate, lol Any help would be greatly appreciated!! (this mommy really likes this car and would love to see it restored )
  24. Since Sweden is a US car loving country I would like to notify you about the fact that I'm selling my beautiful 1978 Coupe DeVille. It's in great technical condition. Please contact me on jerryleelewis2@gmail.com for more info. Best regards,
  25. Hello, I have a 2001 DeVille for sale with only 57k miles. Northstar V8, cloth seats, all four heated and back only heated seats, electric everything, On-star ready. Great car but I would like to see it go to someone who appreciates Cadillacs. I live in San Diego and will not ship the car but it is ready to be any distance if you want to pick it up yourself. Asking $6950 You can email me with any questions or to get more photos: Dnesselroth@hotmail.com