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Found 8 results

  1. Hi all, First off I'm SO very happy I found this forum, I live in Amsterdam, The Netherlands and a Cadillac here is a bit of an Al Capone boat, no matter her age or model, most American cars are, but Cadillac.. that's only something from movies. BUT... I got myself about 1 year ago the real deal, a 2002 Deville in, I must say, mint condition, inside and out. No complaints exept for the radio that didnt do 'our' frequencies (or rather 50% of the fm frequencies, we use odd frequencies as well, the original radio only does even, or the other way around?). So replaced it with a nice pioneer digital radio with the proper interfaces to keep everything original. I love that car! In order to spoil her, I asked a friend mechanic to give it an overhaul, new fluids, new sparkplugs (they were ANCIENT), flush the coolant etc. First thing to pop was a coil, i guess it couldnt handle the new sparks, ordered a new one and all was fine. Until a few weeks later BOOM, it overheated. A quick look learned coolant was VERY low. Later I realised this was probably just an airbubble, as I started reading online about engine problems on the Deville. Yes, I am guilty as charged as not to bring it to a certified or at least experienced Cadillac shop, but keep in mind the closest one to find easilly is about 2.500miles from here: in the States, So from here on clouds drew over my Obamobile as it was commonly refered to last year (dont want to offend anyone, but I think it sounded better than 'Trumpette' as I heard someone called my baby ). In the weeks that follow things got from the temperature going thru half-way just a bit at a stoplight after a highway tour in the beginning, to sweaty and tensioned drives the past days as temperature is absolute iradic. CHECK COOLANT LEVEL was in my display ever since I bought her, so I decided to order a new reservoir with sensor so at least i could see what was going on and didnt have to check the level before a drive. That worked... for bit. Now I still check the level and fill her to the right level, close her up and start driving. About 2 minutes down the road the dash will tell me again to check the level. Here's what a typical drive now looks like for me: - I adjust the coolant if necessary, when cold the system is always under pressure. I assume that's normal. (is it?) Usually she agrees the level is ok for about 5, 6 minutes of drive (temperature raised about 1/4). - When I pull up for gas (also common on 4.6L engines i guess) and continue my drive, the level usually remains satisfactory to her, but not always. - I drive for good 20 minutes (Holland is not very big fortunately), when i dont meet any stoplights things should be good, when i need to stop, I keep my fingers crossed that dreaded needle wont go up. It goes down again as i proceed to drive. Than I stop the car and do my bussiness, so far, no problems. - I get back and halfway home, so that's about 10 minutes on the highway, temperature may go up to a level where i need to pull over and let the car cool, cuz I dont want the teperature to go in the red. Thusfar it happend to me one she told me she had turned off my a/c because her engine was hot. - When times are bad I may have to repeat those steps, when i dont rev above 2000rpm she thusfar remains fairly under control, but in the last 10 minutes to home i may have to pause 2 or 3 times to let her cool. The other day the last stop I made settled her mind, as temperature ran down to normal and as I parked she was happy as a if I had given her a box of chocolate.Temperature fine, no faults, she didnt even drain my gastank. - I go inside, do my 20 minutes of prayers and say my Hail Cadillac's and prepare for the next trip. So... My mechanic friend tested the coolant for illegal substances and we found that she's been smoking, as Co2 was found. Now you all know smoking weed is legal here but I never caught her doing any, so we came to the conclusion her head gasket was blown. So... what to do now? I have been reading and viewing youtube movies about horror stories on northstar engines, oh my, at times i get the feeling the Northstar engine is the absolute worst engine anybody ever built in the entire automobile history.. there's bolts that just pop out, entire blocks have cracks in it from front to end, they gobble up gaskets like there's no tomorrow and if you're lucky this all happens after about 10.000 miles of driving! Fortunately I know the People of The Internet have a way of over-exaggerating things and there are, so i understand 3 model northstar's, so probably it's not as bad as it looks. BUT... I need to repair my car. I love her too much to dispose of her because of this. Here's what we take into consideration given what we read and found reasonable to be true and our geographical location: - Parts for the Deville we can order online from rockauto, they are relatively inexpensive (particulary compared to european parts) and are here within 2 to 3 weeks, no problem. - The engine did at least 275.000km's up until today. - We can buy the same block at a junkyard, supposedly ran 100.000km, but we're never sure. It was a crash car so we can asume it's a fair engine for it's age and mileage. Still, it's 15 years old and did 100.000km's. It sells for say 1500 dollars. - We can buy a new longblock for roughly 4500,- dollars plus the little extra's you'll always end up needing. But it also needs shipment and it's gonna be taxed when it comes here. That means it's gonna be roughly 7500,- - We can refurbish the entire engine, that would set me back roughly 2500,- dollars. It would mean the engine would be as good as new. - We can replace the headgasket, a bit of belting, maybe a waterpump and small things only and pray there's nothing else we find. This shoud be doable for about 750,- - In any case the engine needs to be removed from and refitted to the car. One internet video tells us we should be looking at about 80 hours of work, maybe it's 40. My friend mechanic doesnt charge me top dollar but he dont work for free either. Plus during the entire time the car is under construction his garage will be occupied with Cadillac. Now I wouldnt mind that as its a Cadillac, but he does. Now after this all, I come back to my original question: now what!? What should I do? Are all my troubles coming from the headgasket? What's up with those 'pallets' everybody talks about that should be mixed with the coolant? What happens if you dont use those, will you exhaust leaks to your coolant by any chance? To go short do I NEED to replace the HG in order to solve my problems, would anybody say there is a chance I might still have the same problems when the repairs are done because i may have missed a very essential issue in maintanance somewhere? And what option of repair would you recommend? Go for the lower mileage block or instead for an overhaul of the original block? Is my block a 'good' one, or one that will spit out the bolts because of some crazy threading? the newer block or the original, would i still want to replace those bolts and use those mysterious 'inserts' or is there a better option and is it necessary? Can anybody realistically say how much time it would take to take out the engine and put it back in? And is this truly the only sensible way of repairing the HG? Ordering a new block is about the only thing I am willing to eliminate, but I am also willing to add buying an overhauled engine from the states, given the price is reasonable and shipment can be aranged, but will I have a no doubt about it excellent condition block, as warranty doesnt mean anything to me, I simply cant just send it back to have a look at it, simple as that. So than, for the diehards that took the time to read all this, my gratitude, I'm sorry for my bad English, it's hopefully more understandable than when I would have written it in Dutch, yet, my apologies, I wish you all happy and safe driving and if you can spare me any hints or tips, I'm very much looking forward to them and I'd be happy to add any information when I forgot some. Thanks in advance, greetings from Amsterdam and be well! Ron PS: My VIN has a '9' in the engine type digit.
  2. Hello everyone, 96 Cadillac Northstar 4.6L Symptoms high idle and constant revv So I pulled the Intake manifold and coolant started to leak out of the bolt hole(Closest to plug 8) under the intake. Picture included, the leak will stop with the bolt hand tight with the intake off. No Codes. I am wondering is this a head gasket or something else? Would sealant be a bad idea? PS Picture I grabbed from the internet. My car is not this dirty
  3. I have a 98 Deville with a 4.6L v8 northstar. About a week ago, my car overheated. Let it cool down and turns out, all my water was gone! So, I found out that once the car gets up to running temp, pressure is pushing water out of the overflow tube, (there is only one reservoir with a tube right by the cap) untill there is no water left! Checked my oil, it's clean so I'm hoping it's not a faulty head gasket. But I think its weird that water is just coming right back out? Somebody please help me.. This car is the love of my life, but if I'm looking at over $3,000 in labor cause of a HG I think it's time to say goodbye. So someone please give me some good news!!! Also, it's not the thermostat. Just replaced that today.
  4. I have a 1996 Cadillac DeVille Concour Sedan with a 4.6 Liter 8 Cylinder Northstar Engine that has 74,389 miles on it. Recently, it started leaking coolant approximately under the front center of the car. I applied a product called BARS LEAKS RADIATOR HEAVY DUTY LEAKS additive and it worked for about two months. The problem arised again recently and I did the same thing but the results was unsuccessful. The tank had become half filled with these pellets and now the coolant is leaking at a much faster rate then before. I was wondering if there is a way to replace the leading tube on the bottom to keep the cost down or if I have to replace the entire system all together? I have low a/c compressor readings when I try to turn the fan on to keep it from overheating while I'm driving but that fails. The highest temperature ever recorded while driving is 258°. It still purrs like a cat without any engine noise but I noticed that more coolant LEAKS out when it's in idle. Can someone Please help me? I don't want to have to sell HER.
  5. This question is about a 1997 Cadillac DeVille with the 275 Hp version of the Northstar engine. As part of my regular inspection routine, I checked the coolant a few days ago, and it looked somewhat strange. Today, with a 200-mile trip since I first noticed the strange look of the coolant, i checked it again, and it looks like there is oil in the coolant. Not very much, but just a few drops visible in the surge tank, and a some traces of it on the plastic tab/ridge that sits right under the surge tank cap. - The coolant level has not changed, and the engine oil looks normal (light brown and clear). - The transmission fluid was clear and red. - All fluids smelled like they usually do. - The coolant system pressurizes like normal, and holds pressure like normal. - I check these things every now and then, so I have a pretty good idea of the normal state of things. Checking my radiator, I found that: - On the passenger's side, there are two unused connections in the side tank. - On the driver's side, there are two connections in the side tank that have narrow steel tubes going out of them. I could not see where they went from there. - In front of the radiator (and AC radiator) there was a small steel radiator comprising a steel tube that was bent twice (so as to form three parallel lines) and cooling fins (also steel) that were attached to the three parallel lines of steel tubing. I have not found any information on what this is, and I could not see where the lines went. In the 1997 FSM, I found the following conflicting information: Page 6-193, under Radiator Replacement: 8. Disconnect the engine oil cooler lines from the right radiator end tank. 9. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the left radiator end tank. Page 6-197, under Radiator Assembly: "... The right side end tank houses the transmission oil cooler. The let side end tank houses the engine oil cooler. ..." This was accompanied by a numbered illustration, which denoted the end tank cooler on the side with the drain plug, which is the driver's side, as the engine oil cooler, and the end tank cooler on the other side (passenger's side) as the transmission oil cooler (consistent with the text on the same page, but in conflict with the text on page 193). Some additional information: - I change my coolant with two-year intervals, with the last change almost two years ago (I plan on changing it by the end of summer). I always use DexCool plus deionized water and add two GM sealant tabs after draining the system (since I only drain and refill without flushing, some of the old coolant stays, hence only two pellets and the biannual change interval). - The engine operating temperature during my last 300 miles of driving (as well as the 80000 miles that I have driven before that) was normal (about 196 F when cruising, rising a bit when going from highway to city driving and falling a few degrees during WOT (I guess as a result of the increased coolant flow at the higher RPM)). - It is currently warm were I live, about 80 F, so the AC is running, but I have always seen the same engine temperature behavior whether it is 80 or -10 F outside. Always about 196 F when cruising, going up a bit when going from highway to city and going down a few degrees after WOT (has been the same for the nine years I have had the car). Some questions: - Do I have a transmission or engine oil cooler in my driver's side radiator end tank? - What is the small and simple cooler that sits in front of my radiator? - What could be possible causes for the oil in the coolant? - Is there a possibility that there is also coolant in the oil, but since coolant is heavier than oil, it sits at the bottom of the oil pan without causing any visible signs on the dipstick or under the oil filling cap? I guess that the oil pick up does not sit right at the very bottom of the pan, but slightly above it. I am asking this because if oil is pushed into the coolant system when the engine is on, coolant might be pushed in the other direction when the engine is switched off, since the cooling system remains pressurized for a while, while the oiling system looses pressure immediately when the engine is not running. Thanks in advance, Jonas
  6. 96 Seville STS just stopped while driving. Although I have been having some overheating problems, had just put in some Orange coolant, the temperature (gage) was only 1/4 past the normal temperature when the car just died while driving around town. Fan was on. The fuel pump seems like it has no pressure in the fuel rail. Please tell me how to check it with a meter.
  7. I just brought a '97 D'elegance yesterday for $1,000 in Maryland. It overheats almost immediately. Every time I drive it the temperature shoots up pretty fast around 244F in about 5-10 minutes or so. What did I get myself into? I think I got got. Oh well. What are some fixes? I dumped $135, for a battery, $240 for MDTags, $10 for tool kit to put in battery and tags, $ 368 for 1st and last months insurance. As well as the $1,000 for the car. I'm felling stubborn. I want to make it work. I refuse to just have wasted almost $2,000 in less than 24hrs!
  8. Hello folks, I have a 95 Deville 4.9L that has sprung a nasty coolant leak. It pours out from beneath the engine near the crankshaft. The radiator will empty out in about 2 minutes. Any thoughts on what could break in that area? I had recently bypassed the A/C compressor with a shorter belt... maybe caused increased pressure and ruptured a hose or pipe? Thanks for any input!