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Found 23 results

  1. Could use some help/advice on diagnosing an E046 trouble code for a '92 Eldorado with the 4.9 liter engine. I also failed my last smog check because of excessive NOx, btw. I'm thinking the two things are related. E046 is the the 'Left to Right Bank Fueling Difference' that will produce a Service Engine Soon light. My E046 is the single current code but the SES only comes on intermittently. My due diligence of Googling other people's experience with the E046 on this and other forums has been a bit disappointing. Many of the E046 complainers don't seem to use a Factory Service Manual for diagnosis, and most of the E046 threads I've seen have the guys replacing O2 sensors and fuel injection parts without really taking a more scientific approach (i.e. not throwing parts at the problem and hoping it will go away). Apparently the O2 sensors can be bad and produce an E046 without spitting out a more O2-specific trouble code. Anyway, the fault tree for E046 can be found on my attachment IMG_0379.jpg with some more info on E046 found in attachment IMG_0385.jpg Going through the steps of the tree, I am witnessing the ED35 (Right O2 sensor cross count) bouncing around from 0 to a high of 34, while the ED34 (Left O2 sensor cross count) varying between 0 to a high of about 24. These values do not seem to linearly increase as the car accelerates or travels at a higher rate of speed. Even just idling in Park in my driveway can produce non-zero cross counts. What should I do now? I have seen previous posts with differing opinions, e.g. the actual numerical value doesn't matter, it's the frequency of the numbers changing, the 0 value is no good, a high number is better, etc. and so forth. Some previous posters don't seem to have a really good grasp of what 'cross count' really means (me included). I'm taking an educated guess that if the cross count reading is '5' as an example, this means the O2 sensor is dictating 5 changes per second from a rich to a lean burn. Is that correct? So I have many more questions than answers, is there somebody out there that can help me with this dilemma? I feel that just blindly replacing O2 sensors as historically been done might be my last resort otherwise. Thanks, cadillac fellas.
  2. The rear suspension setup is very important for a FWD Autocross car. The stiffer the better almost to the point where it starts to make the car over steer. However, I need to find the balance between good handling and streetability because I drive this car 50 miles per day. I want a sports car ride, not a log truck ride. Here's a look at the stock suspension. However, there are a few things about this donor car that make it a rare a desirable find. To be continued.......
  3. Hey y'all. Fresh meat here. I’m looking for some advice on a 1998 Cadillac Eldorado that is for sale near me for $3500. The vehicle has just over 71000 miles on it, has one of the Northstar V8 engines in it, and actually looks in fairly good shape (see linked image). But, as a poor college student that needs his ramen noodle funds, I’ve done my research to see if there’s a reason for the low price tag on such a neat looking vehicle. And I found it, maybe, and I’ve had some second thoughts. I’ve been reading around on a couple different sites and forums about the vehicle, and a concern of mine has been consistent on nearly each place I’ve gone; oil consumption/burning. In my travels, I have read that the NSV8 engine likes to burn about a quart or so of oil every 1000-1500 miles, and some owners have experienced more than that. However, I have also read that the engine is a High Performance Engine, which would explain why the sexy beast likes to drink. I’ve also spoken to some friends, one of which who works for GM and another who has a brother who owned two Northstar engines, and they both warned me pretty strongly to avoid the car. But, while I appreciate their advice, I’d like some more, if possible. I’d like y’alls advice as to whether or not, based on my situation, if this car will light my pretty much already empty wallet ablaze, or if it’ll be a good life decision. I really like Cadillacs since they look pretty sleek, and I really like the big motor in the car, so I’m more than happy with buying it and dealing with the minor headaches if I have to. With that said, here’s some background info; The vehicle is being sold for $3500. For me, this isn’t bad. Technically, I won’t even be paying for it. If I were to go through with the vehicle, I’d essentially be trading my current car for it. The only thing I’d have to buy would be oil for an oil change and any other little things for the basic check-up I give all of my new cars (brakes, anti-freeze, wipers, tires, washer fluid, etc). As mentioned, I’m a college kiddo. I also don’t particularly have a steady job, but I can work if need be so money isn’t exactly a fleeting dream. Everything right now is going to gas for transport, food, and living expenses. So an expensive car will likely be resold in about a week of me getting it. I already have a safe, reliable, and fully-paid off vehicle. The car I have is a 2002 Monte Carlo that I purchased actually just a few months ago when my tank of a Buick finally decided to start giving me issues. The Monte runs well and the only problems I’ve had so far is some anti-freeze leaking, a little bodywork needing to be fastened back down, and hard shifting if I don’t work the throttle correctly. The Monte also only has around 120k miles on it and looks decent. My Buick had 185k on it when we got it four-five years ago and I just switched cars with it at 210k. From what I read, the Northstar is a high performance engine, so it’s oil consumption is much higher and the beast under the hood has some punch to it. However, while some of you might use it to its full potential, I have an idea that I may not. I don’t really beat on my cars and if I do punch it, by god it’s for only about a quarter mile or so because I’ve already got my share of tickets. But, my commute is fairly short, and I have one other advantage; a motorcycle. So the engine might actually just fall right out from under my foot because of me not using it fully. My commute to and from school is about 20 miles of pretty much cruising at 50, so the distance I travel is pretty low. Even more, I only drive my car in bad and cold weather, as every other day I’m on the bike. Because of this, it actually takes quite a while for me to get any where near 1k miles on my car. I bought the Monte about two or three months ago and it’s only got about 200 miles more on the odometer. During the year, I travel about two to three times; once a year to Rochester, and once or twice out to Boston. From where I am, both places are about 150-200 miles out. And I only take the car if the weather looks potentially too rough for the motorcycle. So, TLDR; the Eldorado is going to be a bad weather/winter backup vehicle to my motorcycle. I won’t be putting a lot of miles onto it throughout the year and would be lucky to put 5k on it per year. I already have a reliable vehicle, so it’s not a ride-or-die situation for me, the vehicle is more of a “I WANT IT” sort of deal. However, if I get it and it guzzles oil on me, I don’t exactly have the funds to keep it in 100% good shape. 1 Quart every 1k miles should be manageable, but beyond that and HAHA there goes my ramen fund. I do have some mechanical know-how, so if there are big issues, I can generally figure it out. If I can’t, I’m not stubborn enough not to ask. With good instructions, I can figure most things out. SO THERE IT IS… I’m really hoping y’all can lend me your brains and advice with this. You guys are a lot more into Caddies than I am and I definitely think your advice will help me make the correct life decision. If you have any tips, hints, or advice, definitely let me know. Thanks everyone, I look forward to your responses. o7 --Saber
  4. I found a company that can reprogram the PCM in my 02 Eldorado, so now engine mods, swaps, tunes, cams, etc. are viable options. It's going to cost $2400-$2700 at a local shop specializing in the Northstar blown head gasket problem to have my engine repaired and oil leaks fixed depending upon how much I have them do to the car. They recommend upgrading to the head stud kit if I plan to add nitrous or a turbo: otherwise use the oversized bolts and inserts they keep in stock. The 4.4 superchargers are affordable in used condition. If they will bolt up in place of the stock 4.6 intake, then it's a no-brainer; we go supercharged. However, will the vacuum valve be enough to control the excessive boost pressures or do I have to use a computer and harness from the 4.4 to regulate it? If the 4.4 cams and/or heads will bolt up, then that is a possibility. However, I can buy a used low miles 4.4 supercharged motor for just over half of what it would cost to get my 4.6 repaired. I just don't know much about how the 4.4 SC motor is set up. Is it a coil-on-plug like mine? Will I have water pump relocation issues? How hard would it be to convert it to a transverse mount configuration? Are the nickle and dime parts and conversions going to cost over $1,000? Either way, the end result must be that my instrument cluster and climate control system functionality remains the same. I understand that the 4.4 is a much stronger block than the 4.6, but I also understand that the 4.6 can handle 1,000 h.p. I'd be happy with anything above 420 h.p. or close. Both options mentioned above would be cheaper than an LS4 swap and the N* would hold together longer than the LS. Decisions...... Who can give some good tech here; I'm stuck at the crossroads. Thanks Cody
  5. More information and photo's of the condition he left the man's Cadillac in after Carroll dropped it off at the Princeton, Texas, Walmart: http://victimsoftimcarroll.blogspot.com/2017/05/tim-carroll-sued-in-collin-county.html
  6. Hello everyone, 96 Cadillac Northstar 4.6L Symptoms high idle and constant revv So I pulled the Intake manifold and coolant started to leak out of the bolt hole(Closest to plug 8) under the intake. Picture included, the leak will stop with the bolt hand tight with the intake off. No Codes. I am wondering is this a head gasket or something else? Would sealant be a bad idea? PS Picture I grabbed from the internet. My car is not this dirty
  7. I want to thank everyone on this forum for the many responses I have received in ONE day regarding my car search. Specifically, I am considering a 1985 Seville (serial numbers over 3000) as a daily driver (perhaps a commute once a week) and otherwise a weekend cruiser and garage beauty. My concern is the HT 4100 and the fact that the Carfax indicates less than 200-300 miles on the car per year. It's a low miler - 50K- and has the original engine. I've learned about using 15w oil, or maybe 20w, or some say only 10w - and most seem to think the coolant tabs aren't needed. I didn't see them at my local auto parts store, so maybe it's okay not to need them. I like the Seville style. My concern is not only the proper maintenance for this engine but also the fact it has been driven so lightly over the 31 years that if I begin a commute 90 miles highway round trip one morning the gaskets, as old as they are and everything else, might leak. The radiator and thermostat were replaced on this car in 2014. Makes me wonder if overheating occurred, and that's a concern, too. I'm still considering the car. And I'm checking the huge 77 Eldorado too. But I'm not as excited about it as I am a Seville. ? Thank you for being very helpful to me. I appreciate all of you - and this forum - very much! caddyfan16
  8. 1953 Cadillac Eldorado

    Cool Convertible Cars Thursdays Where we feature a Convertible Car each Thursday. 1953 Cadillac ElDorado
  9. Hi all. I am contemplating letting go of my eldorado. It is a great car. I needed something more suited for my daily driver so I bought something different. I have put alot of hard work into this car to make it up to my standards. It is a 2001 Pearl white ESC. Shale interior 140k miles. Clean title Here is a list of what I have done in the last year New Remy alternator, belt, battery, tensioner. Radiator (had cracks in the inlet tank) replaced coolant. All motor mounts including struts intake gaskets and everything related serviced complete tuneup consisting of remy coil packs delco plugs, and new COP ends Front hub assemblies, swaybar links, pads and rotors Rear knuckle bushings, pads and rotors, ELC compressor and dryer I replaced both door panels. Both I have repaired and hold fine. New are no longer available. I removed the seats and scrubbed the carpet. All leather gets treated with mink oil. Nice and plush. I installed the oem 12 disc changer. replaced the power antenna Everything works properly except the gas gauge (it reads inaccurate under half a tank) Heated seats are quite nice, also has memory feature . Has theft deterrent with factory alarm. A/C blows ice cold. Rear console blower seems a little slow, (probably never got used) I will be honest the car has some dents and dings from previous owner but is completely functional. Rust is extremely minimal. Well undercoated. One minor rust spot above right rear tire (very minor surface) I also have some extra parts that I can let go with it. Asking price is 2,500 firm. I am sure that is a completely reasonable price for what it is. Anyone that knows me well knows just how meticulous I am. I would absolutely not sell something that has a major issue. I drove this car everyday (about 100 miles a day) until I bought the car I am driving now. the check engine light is off and has been off. NYSI is good til next year. I figured I would post it here before offering it anywhere else. I thank you all for taking the time to read this.
  10. No, not that kind of help, more like a psychiatrist....... Yesterday I picked up another Baby Cadillac! 1990 Eldo Biarritz. Triple white. In need of some TLC but basically solid an well taken care of. Originally exported to Saudi Arabia and later shipped to Sweden. Looks nice standing next to my -90 Seville. BTW Is it still possible to get interior part for a 1990 in the US? The left door needs a new inside. White whit black rug insert at the bottom.
  11. 01 eldorado windows

    Hi all. Hope someone can give me some ideas. Let me start by reminding that the eldos do not have frames around the door windows. If the blower is running I cant close the door right. The window doesn't hit right where it is supposed to. It hits the block toward the front of the window and makes a nasty noise. I have to either shut the car off or shut off the blower. It must be the pressure causes the window to push out when I try to shut the door. It also does it sometimes without even having the car on. It is incredibly annoying and embarassing to have to keep opening and carefully trying to close the door, In the spring and summer I can tolerate it ok but I cannot in the winter. Reason being is that I cannot roll down the window when it is frozen, and I know all too well what happens when you try to. I am afraid of breaking the window, or the block on the body, or damaging the door panel more than it already is. Before I tear into the door is there something I should know about this setup? I must say this car has me quite irritated, It still shakes, it still burns excessive oil, and the doors. I would give anything to have another 96 Deville. Thanks all in advance I must also add that when the door shuts ok the window seats fine and there is no wind noise.
  12. Hi all. My new eldo is so quiet that the little things bug me. Anyway my windows rattle in the doors when they are down. I typically love to drive with the windows all the way down when it is nice, especially being not having frames around the windows. I was wondering if there is a guide track in the door at the front and back of the window like the traditional doors? I know they like to rot on the traditional doors so maybe these have the same issue. Thanks
  13. Not low on coolant. The norm for the last 6 months has been just above halfway on the temp gauge due to crank sensor issues and a check engine light. Also now low on Freon so computer shuts AC off and gives me a text message on the dash.... No problems when driving at any speed above 20 MPH. However, when sitting in a drive thru line, the temp gauge begins to rise. It has not overheated yet, but it had been 3/4 to the red mark (where I either shut it down or start driving ) I listened for the fan motor, but don't hear it running. However it does seem to turn at a slower speed. It it a simple, the main fan motor is bad - fix it, issue, or is there a slow speed or other sensor issue that may be going on? I don't have the money to just start changing parts till I get the right one. I need to nail it on the first try. And to be sure, which motor is the non AC motor?
  14. Hi all. I am looking to part out my 1996 Cadillac Deville gold wreath package. The car has been wonderful to me but the rust has gotten the best of it and the torque convertor is gone. prices are very reasonable. Interior parts are in very good shape. switches are good. Anything you might need just throw me a message and I will let you know if I have it. I also have some parts from my 1996 eldorado, including black sun visors Dual type. roof console(astroroof one) Climate control unit. U1L stereo. and information system unit. Center shifter trim with heated seat switch. plastic. Prices are negotiable. Thanks for listing
  15. 1969 Cadillac Eldorado - $16800 (Rowlett) condition: excellent 1969 Cadillac Eldorado odometer: 101000 automatic transmission title : clean Up for sale is my classic 1969 Cadillac Eldorado finished in sapphire blue metallic, white vinyl top and blue leather interior. This car is in great condition, inside and out. The car is sitting on 101,000 miles, the last 2,600 or so since 1996. Mechanically this car is excellent. Considering its 4,700 pound curb weight its handling is tight, its acceleration strong and its shifting smooth. It steers straight down the road without wandering and corners pretty flat considering its land yacht proportions. You'll feel like a movie star, one finger maneuvering the three spoke steering wheel up to the valet stand. If you're in the mood you can mash down hard on the gas pedal like Mad Men and that big 472 cubic inch 375 horse power motor will smoke the front tires through at least the first two of the three speeds of its turbo hydromatic transmission. That should be no surprise with an astounding 525 foot pounds of torque available at 3,000 rpm. The four wheel power disk brakes will haul this behemoth down without locking up or pulling one way or the other. Read the full description: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4479477599.html What a great write-up, and complete photo set. This is a good example of how to post your vehicle for sale.
  16. Hi um ive been having trouble with my beautiful black 96 cadillac eldorado.. one day after coming home from the gym. I was getting ready to leave again but my car immediately shut off after ignition.. this has happened before since ive had battery issues but I fixed that so it came as a surprise.. I cranked it once more and boom I heard a loud knock.. cranked it again and nothin.. the car wouldn't stay on.. I replaced the fuel filter checked the fuel pump psi even the ignition switch which a mechanic swore was the issue.. and wanted to charge me $500 with labor and parts for the ignition switch.. however I contacted my personal lock smith and he told me that was impossible the car wouldnt even turn on if it was the switch.. so now im here thinking about what it could be.. the "Car may not start" warning has always been on since I got the car.. it never gave me no problems.. ive had the car 5 years.. the emissions system warning however did start flashing a couple months prior and it would go away so I ignored it.. I came across another forum with a guy that owned an ETC he took his to the Dealer to replace the Nylon fuel rail with a steel fuel rail.. his car was up and running.. they told him to get a new regulator and an oil change bc fuel may have leaked into the oil.. any help?? To keep it short the car turns on for a few seconds and shuts off immediately after especially when pressing the pedal.. appreciate any hel thx
  17. Mine is a 95 Cadillac Eldorado has 30,000 miles on it. Clean! one question, my brake lights work fine. But the other day I got stopped by a dumb *smurf* cop who said they were out, keep in mind it was bright as day outside at this time. So I was like ok. When I went into my garage, being it's dark in my garage, my automatic lights turned. I got out of my car and what do you know! My brake lights are on! And when pressed on the brake pedal they get brighter as well. When I backed out of the garage in the daylight of course the automatic lights turned off, but this time I pressed to button for my lights to come on and STILL..my brake lights work! So the reason for me writing this is to ask if anyone knows that the feature for the tail light brake lights to not be on during the daylight and only the brake light in the back window to be on during daylight is a feature thats normal? Like is it a feature that Cadillac made to save energy?
  18. I hope I am posting in the right spot. I have a 1997 Eldorado ETC, 108K miles. It had a crack in the radiator upper right side. I replaced the radiator and tstat, but, its still overheating after about 15 miles. I have flushed the block and new radiator, cooling fans work, pass over not plugged. I have run it with and with out tstat. I am at wits end. All I can come up with is the heater core (which shows on signs of leakage) It has also developed a good miss, I think I need to replace a couple coils, no biggie, unless it is related to this. Any help or advise is GREATLY appreciated.
  19. Here's the deal, my 97 northstar has been getting hot and not sure what to do. Replaced the thermostat, did not get a flush kit but drained the system and ran a ton of water through it with a hose. It has been doing ok at highway speeds. I can drive like half an hour on the highway and then come to a stoplight and sit and the temp starts rising and my oil pressure light flashes off and on. Seems to overheat at a a stand still. on the other hand, i started it and let it idle for 30 minutes in the driveway and it was fine. Oil is not milky so I do not think this is related to head gasket problems. Now I am at a loss. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
  20. It was a car that gave very literal meaning to "crushing the competition." Horsepower drove the 1960s while conspicuous consumption pushed the 1970s to new physical limits. Stand at the front corner of a Cadillac Eldorado and gaze - forever - down its long flanks and you'll get the picture. There's no end in sight and no boundaries that Cadillac wasn't prepared to push. Read More: http://www.newsday.com/classifieds/cars/cadillac-eldorado-an-oversized-car-was-an-oversized-hit-1.5277350
  21. Comparing Cars

    I've driven the CTS-V for only four days now. I drove the 1997 ETC for fifteen and a half years. I had a Corvette in the mists of antiquity and have had some contact with them since. I spent some time in Dallas recently and Bruce showed me around his STS-V. Thus I have some thoughts about the things that are very similar and very different about the cars. The CTS-V is a hard-core world-class GT car. The ride is quite serviceable for a daily driver, and my wife loves the ride. That was a bit of a concern for me because a lot of people that aren't inclined to performance machinery would rather ride in a Deville with weak shocks for that silky smooth ride. But the handling and responsiveness are world class, too. Layered over it all is a top-line Cadillac and all that this implies. It has umpteen-way power seats with warmer *and* cooler; there are HVAC vents into the seats and backs of the front seats. The climate control is as good as anything I've ever experienced, as is the Bose speakers and multimedia radio. The nav system is also top-notch. It has voice commands for the nav system, the Bluetooth, and of course the OnStar. It has a back-up camera. And, it has a lateral acceleration meter that is available on the DIC that I wish that I had discovered before I got into the mountain twisties in Tennessee. The STS-V is very similar to the CTS-V. The STS and CTS share the Sigma platform, as can be inferred from the side-by-side photos. The CTS-V has a 6.2 liter pushrod V8 while the STS-V has a 4.4 liter DOHC V8. With Bruce's tweaks to his STS-V, any practical differences in performance seem minor in my limited experience with both cars. The STS-V is a street car first and foremost, as compared to the CTS-V's commitment to road race track performance, and the STS-V has a better ride. It also has a few high-end features such as the heads-up display that aren't available on the CTS-V. A Corvette, with its lower center of gravity, lower weight, better balance, and lower moment of inertia relative to weight about any axis, will have better responsiveness and higher limits on handling stresses than any sedan or GT car. And, it won't ride any worse than the CTS-V. In fact, a lot of suspension technology is shared between the supercharged Corvettes, the CTS-V, and the ZL-1 Camaro. But on a road course, a Corvette will have the advantage. This doesn't explain why Cadillac owns the Pirelli World Challenge GT Manufacturer's Championship when the competition in the GT class includes Corvettes and Vipers. The ETC is dated, but its FE3 suspension with fresh OEM electronic shocks and struts with ultra-high-performance all-season tires it is the other side of the STS-V. Without a supercharger, it is only 300 hp, so it is in a different class than the V-series cars. It's ride is a tad better than that of the STS-V but it's higher center-of-gravity its handling can't compare with that of the STS-V or CTS-V. What it does have that the CTS-V and STS-V don't is on-board OBD II code readouts and limited control of module-operated options such as selecting DIC readouts, programming fobs, and other functions that require a trip to a dealer and a hookup with a Tech II in 2006 and later models. It has a rain sensor that controls the interval wiper mode, while the later models have a wider range of interval selection without a rain sensor. And while its handling and power don't match up to those of the V-series cars, it is more than a match for most modern sport sedans. It's not a bad idea to master an STS or ETC before you get behind the wheel of a V-series car. Your comments are welcome.
  22. What are my options for finding chrome trim for my cloth top 2002 Eldorado ETC? There is a piece of trim that starts at the rear side window and goes around and beneath the rear window to the other rear side window. I thinking of selling the vehicle and thought I'd fix it if not cost prohibitive?
  23. When going down the road at operating temperatures, while giving just a small amount of gas the engine seems to stumble or missfire, and sometimes even will completely stall after you take your foot off the pedal. When I unplug the EGR valve it works fine, but when I plug it back in the troubles come back. Already tried replacing the EGR valve but it had no effect. Any suggestions? (Besides just leaving it unplugged) 94 Caddy Eldorado Touring, Northstar 4.6L