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Car Model and Year

Found 12 results

  1. I have a 2005 Deville. Jiffy lube says it has a front main seal leak. Any ideas what it will cost to fix. Labor rates run $100-$150/hour.
  2. Heyo everyone, Im 18 and going to college. I have grown up in a life sheltered from nice things, so when I got my first job at 16 I made sure to save to buy nice things. And viola I found a 92 cadillac deville touring. Beautiful car. Honestly a dream car type of feeling. Bought it from a local owner who sold it “for a friend.” So before I talk about what’s wrong with the car and everything, I gotta say the actual circumstances is more screwed than the car, so that’s honestly the advice I’m asking for. I’m super new to this realm of conversation. So I bought it from this guy for $3,200 a few days ago. Bit pricey but mileage was low and he held it for me for a few days while I got my bank situated. and he said it just needed an oil change. I took it for a test drive and it sounded like a tick, but again he said it has just been sitting there and needs fresh gas and oil, as well as filters and whatnot. Tuneup stuff shouldn’t be too bad. Well first problem is he didn’t give me a door key, and I ended up triggering an alarm every time I opened the door until i went to a locksmith the day after. Let it slide cause I’m chill Then yesterday took it to the shop for oil change to see if the ticking would stop. They gave me a service report saying I need two distributor caps and a rotor, all new spark plugs and wire set, air filter, maybe a suspension joint or something. Ok and then they said the tires were cracking, and they could be a safety hazard. then they said the ticking may be a lifter problem. That’s not cool. I’m not good with cars but I’m good at research and a lifter job is not a joke! $2k professional job and if I did it myself i would have to do it correctly, which I’m hearing is not as easy as grandmas pie. And a set of tires is notoriously $600, and that’s not including the alignment I might need to get. i conclude I’m completely jipped with this deal. I ask the guy who sold it to me to talk to his friend to see if he’ll help me cause I’m now in a rock and a hard place as a young person. had my job close down around Christmas too so I don’t have income. I just asked for about one thousand to compensate for the broke crap in the car. He basically said he gave the money to his friend but he’ll see what he can do. I know a friend of his and this friend’s social media was filled with them buying crap and throwing a party tonight? Basically indicates that this may just be a big ole fashioned scam Im so sorry for the length bare with me. Almost done. I basically go on Monday to get the tires done for safety reasons. The thing is registered and whatnot. My big dilemma is: what the hell do I do? I have 2.7k left in the bank for now until I get a job again. Is this worth it if you were in my position? Do I retry for another car and try to sell the one I own or do I suck it up and invest in the caddy? The past few days tell me nothing about how it may do in the future, but all I know is I probably got taken advantage of again im new to Cadillacs and cars in general. I really need some help in weighing pros and cons of spending so much on the car. It’s a lot of money for me, and the economy my age group is entering is so ruthless, so I just don’t know where to begin. Thank you everyone who took the time to read.
  3. Hey there, I'm new here. Last year I inherited a 1999 Deville with only 23,000 miles on the clock. Although many of its 21 year old features are still working a few of them are not. Case in point my A/C. Now I've tried everything, no ACM codes in diagnostics modes, no clutch click when jumping the relay, and I was going to try the voltage at the clutch but I can't seem to find where the harness plugs into it. It definitely has refrigerant, but I'm about a pound shy since I can't get the clutch to engage to suck the rest of it in.
  4. First some history, and an apology to purists. I have a '37 LaSalle (5019, 4-door touring sedan) that had already been modified when I bought it. The body and most of the interior were intact and all original but the chassis and drivetrain had long since been removed. In their place was a 2X4 frame with 1970 Chevelle front and rear frame clips. There was no engine or transmission. I'm keeping the body stock, with all that beautiful trim, etc, no chopping or anything like that, also retaining the original dash, which is also beautiful. Beyond that, however, I'm doing something pretty different. I'm using the engine and automatic overdrive from a 2004 GMC Envoy. It's a DOHC inline six and is a nod to my first car, a '63 Chevy, which had an inline 6. For the seats, I'm using the white leather from a 2001 Deville. For those who are upset about my modifications, I apologize, however, I think of my project as giving life and love to a car that had been already modified and then abandoned. This LaSalle is now back on the road in a limited fashion. It runs but is far from finished. So I bought a 2001 DeVille with a bad motor so I could harvest the interior. I ended up taking the wiring harness and all the computer modules except the PCM and I stripped all the pieces and parts and modules out of the doors as well because who knows what I might need someday... As you may imagine, there have been several twists in this project. The current one, which is the point of this post is this. I'd like to hook up the seat heaters. My question is this: Do I need to hook up the dash integration module and/or the rear integration module for the heaters to work? My guess is that at least one of them needs to be active but I haven't found a definitive answer. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help! Thanks, Mike
  5. I'm experiencing a crank, but no start on my 1996 Cadillac Deville. The car was running previously and it stalled in traffic out of nowhere to which it would no longer start again, I was able to get it towed back home. I checked the fuel pressure when turning the key to the ON position, not START and it goes up to 10psi and then drops to zero within about a second. I am also not receiving any DTC codes pointing me to any issues. From my research I found that 3 of the main problems could be the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, or the fuel filter. I am looking for some help and some tips to help me further my investigation into pinpoint what the actual problem could be. Any ideas?
  6. I have a 96 Cadillac Deville that is overheating and blowing white smoke out of the tail pipe as well as spitting water out of the tail pipe. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Has new water pump, new thermostat, no leak, etc.
  7. I have a 1999 Deville with 31k miles on it. The car is in pretty much new condition. Not a single issue with it... Except that I'm now having an intermittent starting issue. Yesterday I was forced to replace a fuse for the radio. I inadvertently pulled the "Batt1" fuse in the engine bay area while trying to find the blown fuse for the radio. Long story short I found the right location in the trunk and replaced the blow fuse and all is well with the radio. NOW when you insert the key into the ignition it has a solid traction control light. The PRND321 lights are flashing, I have a slow steady chime and a message saying service traction control system and service security system message that says car might not restart. Here is the kicker... If I take the Batt1 fuse out and put it back in, the car will start perfect! After driving the car for a little bit then parking and getting back it, the car says the same message and won't let me start. If I pull the fuse and put it back in, boom! The car starts fine. What on earth could be causing this?? Thanks in advance.
  8. Hello and thank you in advance for any help anyone can offer. I recently bought a 1997 Cadillac DeVille. It is a little bit of a fixer upper but definitely a great for car for my son once he is able to get his license. At first i had no issues with brakes but last weekend traction control and ABS light came on after hearing ABS pump cycle. Previously I noticed sometimes when driving if I hit a dip brake light would come on but go away usually few seconds later. Brakes never felt off and car stopped fine.. When i pulled the codes it came back with C1255. I was hoping that maybe a brake flush would help since fluid was pretty dark. To my horror the brake fluid was a dark green, never seen that in a car before that wasn't sitting in a field for years, and had some air in the lines that I was able to bleed out. Fluid now is pretty clear but when I start car in the morning I still hear the ABS pump turn on and off several times and then the traction control light and ABS light come on still. Not sure if not is normal but when ABS pump comes on it is pretty loud. When i first purchased car I never heard ABS pump come on and never had any codes related to brake system. From my research the EBCM need to be reflowed with solder but I am curious if maybe the pump itself is bad. Any information is appreciated and hopefully someone can point me in a good direction.
  9. Hello! I have a 1990 Cadillac Deville, 4.5L V8 PFI, 75,068 Miles. Today I was driving and all of a sudden the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on and both the Fuel In Tank and Electronic Climate Control read outs started showing a “d”. (See pictures in links below). https://i.imgur.com/urkMrQF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jnIw9xU.jpg https://i.imgur.com/VXwOqxk.jpg Gallery On top of this the Air conditioning fan started blowing air from the dash, not hot or cold, just ambient temperature air and I can’t change the Climate Control or see the fuel level anymore. When I got home I unhooked the battery to reset it then turned the ignition on without starting the car and pressed “Off” and “Warm” on the climate control so see if I could get a code it looked like a code flashed (to fast for me to read), then it read 000 and would blink over to .7.0 occasionally. I replaced some vacuum hoses that were kind of bridle as well as replaced the o-ring that goes between the air filter housing and the carburetor since it was cracked. I hooked the battery back up and the dash read-outs still showed “d”, SERVICE ENGINE SOON light, and the air was still blowing from the dash. I called around and neither Auto Zone or O’rilleys has the OBD 1 connector to scan the older (pre 1996) cars. The car runs great so it’s hard to trouble shoot whats going on, and I cant find anything at all online about this specific problem. Any ideas or suggestions?
  10. I have a 1996 deville that idle highs at around 2200-3000 RPM when sitting park and when it is in drive it can reach about 30 mph without me pressing the gas. I've changed the following parts and still doing the same thing. vehicle does not misfire or idle rough and starts up immediately. I am stumped. -changed TPS -changed MAF SENSOR -changed IDLE AIR CONTROL SENSOR -changed INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS -changed EVAP PURGE SOLENOID
  11. Hello. Quick question for anyone who could let me know... I own a 1997 eldorado sedan cadi. And it was in perfect condition. Only 54,000 miles on it. Someone side swiped my car in the middle of the night. The drivers side has bad damage all the way down. I need to replace the door on the outside. The inside still works. So would a deville 1997 door work? Let me know if you know please.
  12. Hi all, First off I'm SO very happy I found this forum, I live in Amsterdam, The Netherlands and a Cadillac here is a bit of an Al Capone boat, no matter her age or model, most American cars are, but Cadillac.. that's only something from movies. BUT... I got myself about 1 year ago the real deal, a 2002 Deville in, I must say, mint condition, inside and out. No complaints exept for the radio that didnt do 'our' frequencies (or rather 50% of the fm frequencies, we use odd frequencies as well, the original radio only does even, or the other way around?). So replaced it with a nice pioneer digital radio with the proper interfaces to keep everything original. I love that car! In order to spoil her, I asked a friend mechanic to give it an overhaul, new fluids, new sparkplugs (they were ANCIENT), flush the coolant etc. First thing to pop was a coil, i guess it couldnt handle the new sparks, ordered a new one and all was fine. Until a few weeks later BOOM, it overheated. A quick look learned coolant was VERY low. Later I realised this was probably just an airbubble, as I started reading online about engine problems on the Deville. Yes, I am guilty as charged as not to bring it to a certified or at least experienced Cadillac shop, but keep in mind the closest one to find easilly is about 2.500miles from here: in the States, So from here on clouds drew over my Obamobile as it was commonly refered to last year (dont want to offend anyone, but I think it sounded better than 'Trumpette' as I heard someone called my baby ). In the weeks that follow things got from the temperature going thru half-way just a bit at a stoplight after a highway tour in the beginning, to sweaty and tensioned drives the past days as temperature is absolute iradic. CHECK COOLANT LEVEL was in my display ever since I bought her, so I decided to order a new reservoir with sensor so at least i could see what was going on and didnt have to check the level before a drive. That worked... for bit. Now I still check the level and fill her to the right level, close her up and start driving. About 2 minutes down the road the dash will tell me again to check the level. Here's what a typical drive now looks like for me: - I adjust the coolant if necessary, when cold the system is always under pressure. I assume that's normal. (is it?) Usually she agrees the level is ok for about 5, 6 minutes of drive (temperature raised about 1/4). - When I pull up for gas (also common on 4.6L engines i guess) and continue my drive, the level usually remains satisfactory to her, but not always. - I drive for good 20 minutes (Holland is not very big fortunately), when i dont meet any stoplights things should be good, when i need to stop, I keep my fingers crossed that dreaded needle wont go up. It goes down again as i proceed to drive. Than I stop the car and do my bussiness, so far, no problems. - I get back and halfway home, so that's about 10 minutes on the highway, temperature may go up to a level where i need to pull over and let the car cool, cuz I dont want the teperature to go in the red. Thusfar it happend to me one she told me she had turned off my a/c because her engine was hot. - When times are bad I may have to repeat those steps, when i dont rev above 2000rpm she thusfar remains fairly under control, but in the last 10 minutes to home i may have to pause 2 or 3 times to let her cool. The other day the last stop I made settled her mind, as temperature ran down to normal and as I parked she was happy as a if I had given her a box of chocolate.Temperature fine, no faults, she didnt even drain my gastank. - I go inside, do my 20 minutes of prayers and say my Hail Cadillac's and prepare for the next trip. So... My mechanic friend tested the coolant for illegal substances and we found that she's been smoking, as Co2 was found. Now you all know smoking weed is legal here but I never caught her doing any, so we came to the conclusion her head gasket was blown. So... what to do now? I have been reading and viewing youtube movies about horror stories on northstar engines, oh my, at times i get the feeling the Northstar engine is the absolute worst engine anybody ever built in the entire automobile history.. there's bolts that just pop out, entire blocks have cracks in it from front to end, they gobble up gaskets like there's no tomorrow and if you're lucky this all happens after about 10.000 miles of driving! Fortunately I know the People of The Internet have a way of over-exaggerating things and there are, so i understand 3 model northstar's, so probably it's not as bad as it looks. BUT... I need to repair my car. I love her too much to dispose of her because of this. Here's what we take into consideration given what we read and found reasonable to be true and our geographical location: - Parts for the Deville we can order online from rockauto, they are relatively inexpensive (particulary compared to european parts) and are here within 2 to 3 weeks, no problem. - The engine did at least 275.000km's up until today. - We can buy the same block at a junkyard, supposedly ran 100.000km, but we're never sure. It was a crash car so we can asume it's a fair engine for it's age and mileage. Still, it's 15 years old and did 100.000km's. It sells for say 1500 dollars. - We can buy a new longblock for roughly 4500,- dollars plus the little extra's you'll always end up needing. But it also needs shipment and it's gonna be taxed when it comes here. That means it's gonna be roughly 7500,- - We can refurbish the entire engine, that would set me back roughly 2500,- dollars. It would mean the engine would be as good as new. - We can replace the headgasket, a bit of belting, maybe a waterpump and small things only and pray there's nothing else we find. This shoud be doable for about 750,- - In any case the engine needs to be removed from and refitted to the car. One internet video tells us we should be looking at about 80 hours of work, maybe it's 40. My friend mechanic doesnt charge me top dollar but he dont work for free either. Plus during the entire time the car is under construction his garage will be occupied with Cadillac. Now I wouldnt mind that as its a Cadillac, but he does. Now after this all, I come back to my original question: now what!? What should I do? Are all my troubles coming from the headgasket? What's up with those 'pallets' everybody talks about that should be mixed with the coolant? What happens if you dont use those, will you exhaust leaks to your coolant by any chance? To go short do I NEED to replace the HG in order to solve my problems, would anybody say there is a chance I might still have the same problems when the repairs are done because i may have missed a very essential issue in maintanance somewhere? And what option of repair would you recommend? Go for the lower mileage block or instead for an overhaul of the original block? Is my block a 'good' one, or one that will spit out the bolts because of some crazy threading? the newer block or the original, would i still want to replace those bolts and use those mysterious 'inserts' or is there a better option and is it necessary? Can anybody realistically say how much time it would take to take out the engine and put it back in? And is this truly the only sensible way of repairing the HG? Ordering a new block is about the only thing I am willing to eliminate, but I am also willing to add buying an overhauled engine from the states, given the price is reasonable and shipment can be aranged, but will I have a no doubt about it excellent condition block, as warranty doesnt mean anything to me, I simply cant just send it back to have a look at it, simple as that. So than, for the diehards that took the time to read all this, my gratitude, I'm sorry for my bad English, it's hopefully more understandable than when I would have written it in Dutch, yet, my apologies, I wish you all happy and safe driving and if you can spare me any hints or tips, I'm very much looking forward to them and I'd be happy to add any information when I forgot some. Thanks in advance, greetings from Amsterdam and be well! Ron PS: My VIN has a '9' in the engine type digit.
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