• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by CadVetteStang

  1. 18X10 wheels in all four corners with 275/40ZR18 tires. My search for a suitable performance wheel and tire package is finally over. I am finally satisfied. I lost just a little bit of steering, so I may add 1/2" hubcentric spacers with longer studs. It'll help fill up the fender lip overhang and will give me close to a full lock-to-lock turning ability.
  2. Shortly after getting the car in Oct of 2013, I started researching various tire and wheel combinations. My goal was to find a workable setup that I could use on the street as well as the autocross track. After making a few measurements and considering the planned brake upgrades, I establish the parameters I wanted to work with. Once I install the 12.75" front rotors, the 16" stock wheels will not fit. Therefore, 17" wheels are the minimum diameter I am looking for. Because of weight, I limited the maximum size to 20" (not to mention that 21" and larger wheels on the mid-sized Eldorado looks too Gangster for me. These are 20 X 8.5" wheels with 245/35 R20 tires. So far, it is the only 20" wheel that I like on the car. I don't want bling bling rims, I am after a light weight performance wheel that looks sporty. I will post more pics when I can. Thanks to Arch Street Pawnshop in Little Rock, AR for hosting a half day of wheel fitment tests and pictures. I learned a lot and now have a clear direction to shop for a winning combination.
  3. 18X10 wheels and 275/40 ZR18 tires on a 2002 Cadillac Eldorado. Now I have to work on the alignment.
  4. The rear suspension setup is very important for a FWD Autocross car. The stiffer the better almost to the point where it starts to make the car over steer. However, I need to find the balance between good handling and streetability because I drive this car 50 miles per day. I want a sports car ride, not a log truck ride. Here's a look at the stock suspension. However, there are a few things about this donor car that make it a rare a desirable find. To be continued.......
  5. I forgot to publish the pic in this thread of the wheel-to-suspension contact in the rear suspension. Look where the upper A-Arm makes contact with the inside of the rim.. There is an unused hole on each side in the same location that I made larger for the bolts to mount my suspension limiter. There was a straight line down to the lower A-Arm and a good place to mount it down there.
  6. More details about the new wheels and tires are covered in the thread dedicated to that subject. However, for those not following that forum, here are a few pics. 1. New wheel 18X10 with 275/40ZR18 tires rated at 168 MPH pictured with the stock 16X7 wheel with 225/60R16 tire. 2. In this picture, the stock tire is not inflated and was in a depression. It is not really shorter than the new tire except for tread depth. 3. New wheel/tire pictured with the 18X8.5 Bullitt wheel and 255/45ZR18 tire.
  7. Thank you for the data, Jim. Yes, my two desired sizes are: 275/40ZR18 which is almost the same as the 225/60R16 and the 285/40ZR18 which is almost the same as the 235/60R16, and 255/45ZR16 that I had been using. I've heard that some of these cars came with the 235/60R16. I went with the 275mm wide version because of price and it would be easier to fit under the front fenders.
  8. I modified the factory Monte Carlo Bar's openings as needed, and re-installed the struts. Looks good.
  9. I used SteelStick like bondo for the tower body work since it would be stronger. I then filed it down and shot some touchup paint onto the towers. It doesn't have to be perfect here. A "welded" look is fine.
  10. The brace plates will provide the strength that was lost by opening up the top of the strut towers for the camber/ caster improvement. However I can't deal with the ugly opening. I found some scrap aluminum with a beveled edgeedge, and cut & shaped it to be a trim ring.
  11. I shaved a little off of the new bumpstops with a bandsaw giving them slightly shorter height than the stock Caddy version to allow a bit more suspension travel. Then I reassembled the struts with the Cadillac billows in place. They fill up the narrower springs.
  12. Best I can tell with the car still on jackstands, the tires will not touch the inner fenders or the fender lip. I don't think the outboard sidewalls will rub against the inner fenders even on the lowered rear end. It's like the car was designed for this width and offset.
  13. The 275/40ZR18 tires arrived. Time to get them mounted and check for any possible fitment issues, then adjust the suspension accordingly.
  14. Time to finish the strut modifications: I didn't like the weak-looking 5/16" studs in the upper strut mounts and they were too short to reach through the strut tower brace plate, tower, and thick fender washers planned for the installation. I hammered out the studs and used a 3/8" bit, bought grade 8 bolts of the desired length and went to my dad's house for some tack welding.
  15. To get the rear wheels to clear the rear suspension, I made a suspension limiter from wire rope to prevent the last inch of travel. That kept the upper A-Arm from contacting the inner lip of the rear wheel. I didn't take pics because its just temporary. The permanent fix will be to buy shorter rear shocks when they need replacing.
  16. I made simple brackets for the wheel sensor wire and brake hose with some flat aluminum stock. They will blend in when painted. I also trimmed the brackets as needed.
  17. The inboard angel of the struts set by the increase in negative camber then offset by camber adjustment bolts in the upper hole helps the new wheels clear the strut without spacers.
  18. As mentioned in my wheels and tires thread, the inner beauty lip of the factory Ford Bullitt style wheels made the inner diameter too small to clear the new breaks.. My project was put on hold until I could get new 18" wheels that would clear them. I was able to get a set of four 18X10's on clearance. All future pics in this thread that show a wheel are with the new wheels that have a 7.15" backspace. Any that include tires will be of 275/40ZR18's that I also got a good deal on.
  19. On the rear, when the suspension is fully extended, the upper A-Arm makes contact with the inside of the wheel rim and the tire clearance would be tight by the shock tower. I need about 1/4" more clearance. I have three options: 1. 1/4" wheel spacer. 2. Shorter shocks 3. Suspension limiter For now, I'm going to go with an adjustable suspension limiter. Later on, I will replace the shocks with the same brand and model- just an 1" to 1- 1/2" shorter.
  20. As a bonus, I now have room for Brembo brakes if I should choose a future upgrade over the C5 calipers.
  21. I don't know if these wheels would clear the factory strut wothout doing the same upper mount inboard move with upper camber bolt outboard move like I did, but I know that it worked beautifully with the Grand Prix struts. I have about the same room that 05-18 Mustang owners have who run the same spec 10" wide wheel up front. I could mount 275's or 285's without rubbing:
  22. The wheels arrived fast (and during a rain storm). Two were damaged, but OE WHEELS took care of me today without hesitation and put a replacement order in the works. These are pictures that I took during the rain and on the following day.
  23. I bought the C5 Corvette caliper on 14" C6 rotor hybrid bracket kit for W-body/ N-body cars from Kore3. It is zinc coated and comes with spacers and mounting bolts. Cost is $115. Tobin Knighton was my sales/tech rep and he is great to work with. The kit allows you to install C5 (or C6 base) calipers and JL9 abutment brackets on Grand Prix ( or other W-bodies) and use the 355MM C6 Z06 rotor. The only hiccup for me was that the kit was originally designed for the N-body cars and has 12MM spindle mounting holes. Kore3 was willing to enlarge the holes to the W-body 14MM size and re-zinc the brackets for $20 more ($10 without re-zinc), but I opted to save the money and do the holes myself on a drill press. Also, Tobin swapped in the 14MM mounting hardware at no extra cost so there will be nothing I have to replace after the bolt hole modification. I am pretty sure that I have Tobin convinced to produce future production runs with the 14MM holes because of more demand for W-body cars. We even talked about me waiting a few weeks for the next scheduled production run and getting them with the 14MM holes but I opted to buy the in-stock set. I also did a lot of research and chose to order 14" Mustang Shelby GT500 rotors instead of the C6 Corvette version. They are much cheaper and don't have the retarded cross-drilled holes that only work with Asbestos pads of the 60's. I found them on eBay for $68 in a 2 pack set w/ free shipping. Cheapest C5 caliper/w bracket set I found was the Power Stop rebuilds from Rock Auto. With core charges included, I was only out about $160 total for the pair after shipping, and they still have the factory raised CORVETTE logo (unlike the AUTOZONE units which were much more expensive and had the lettering ground off). I also got some shimmed semi metallic pads from Rock Auto for $8.50 + $6 shipping. This puts me at $360 total so far for the upgrade and all I have left to deal with are the hoses. For info about the big brakes, see that thread in this forum. Here is what an Eldorado looks like with 14" front brakes: