CadVetteStang

Registered
  • Content count

    215
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CadVetteStang

  1. I've been working on how and where to mount the Deville upper strut mounts. To get any noticeable gain in positive caster and negative camber, I had to modify the strut tower openings. This will require a 1/8" steel plate to be used as a reinforcement and to close the gap between the mount and the forward outboard section of the tower. This will also effect the ride height slightly. I discovered that if I slightly notched the outboard mounting hole, I could use two of the three extsting holes. The inboard is a slotted hole and the lineup is exactly at the back of the opening. This means that my left hand side and right hand side upper strut locations will mirror each other in alignment. After modifying the opening and verifying the desired mounting position by driving out one mounting stud and sliding the other two into the desired holes, I removed the mount and bolted it upside down on top of the tower and used it as a jig to drill the new hole. The mount touches the inboard wall and rear wall of the tower. There is room to slot the new hole for forward movement in alignment adjustments if desired. . I'm going to clean up the strut tower modification before I post a photo of the strut mount in its actual position because the unfinished mod looks very rough right now. NOTE: on the driver's side (shown) there is a black bracket that hangs over the top. I had to chisel off the bung that was welded in place underneath due to a clearance issue. I'll have to move that mounting hole to remount the bracket.
  2. The rear suspension setup is very important for a FWD Autocross car. The stiffer the better almost to the point where it starts to make the car over steer. However, I need to find the balance between good handling and streetability because I drive this car 50 miles per day. I want a sports car ride, not a log truck ride. Here's a look at the stock suspension. However, there are a few things about this donor car that make it a rare a desirable find. To be continued.......
  3. Thanks. I'm working on the front suspension right now (see that thread in this forum). I'll get back to body mods after I get the suspension build completed and address an oil leak that has gotten much worse while the car has been parked over the last year. However, I've also been planning the mods to make a Fiero wing adjustable and have bought a few things for it.
  4. Although this car is not being built as a show car, it will appear in many videos, some indie films, several hotrod parades, shows, online forums and hopefully a car magazine or two. I am not wanting anything wild or gaudy or that reeks with bad taste. I am aiming at a classic muscle car theme that is paired with some functionality (ram-air, adjustable wing, brake coolers and front spoiler (air dam). The stripes will be permanent as will most of the vinyl lettering, but the racing numbers, class letters, and sponsorship signs will be magnetic vinyl and will not be on the car for everyday use (too much of a cop magnet). The car will eventually be a deep red color, maybe a crimson or maroon. The paint I have is in very good shape so I will keep the car as a “blonde” for now (Champaign Gold); I just wish there were fewer door dings and scrapes). This is the stripe kit and ram-air, wing, spoiler look I like the most and (except for the placement of the side stripe) should work well with the Eldorado body lines. I love the adjustable Mach 1 wing; I just wish they were not so expensive. The chin spoiler would work well too as this Mach 1 is very close to the size of my Eldorado. This is better placement of the side stripe; note the bolt on hood scoop. I have mixed feelings about one like this. But I will have hood pins just like these: Here is the same paint job in Champaign Gold and will reflect the look I am after with the current color:
  5. SHAFT ADAPTER: A metal spacer I made to bridge the gap between the heights of the shorter Caddy mount and the longer GP mount.... If positioned below the upper mount (as the picture suggests in the previous post) the Caddy strut mount top would be in position relative to the GP mount and allow full use of the available coil spring area. The overall strut assembly would be approximately 1.25" shorter than the Eldorado strut when fully extended. The goal is to have the strut positioned in mid-travel when the car's weight is on the springs. Since the way that I am lowering the car not only involves a 1.25" shorter strut, but also a 1.25" raised suspension (by removing the bushings between the engine cradle (AKA "K-frame") and the body, the actual lowering the car will be a "body drop" in the front that does not effect suspension geometry except for the tie rod angle.(and I might be able to lower the rack to fix that if there is no exhaust system or swaybar clearance issue. This 1.25" body drop should not adversely impact the Eldorado's handling. I will discuss a more dramatic lowering of the car in the next post. Note: I added extra info in the previous post at the pictures.
  6. Rebound Bumper: I had planned on re-using the Eldorado billows & rebound bushings so I didn't buy new ones for the rebuild kit. I didn't like the tall, soft Grand Prix bumper because it was 2.6" tall. It may have worked okay with the GP's poorly designed upper strut mount, but was going to limit too much travel with the beefier Deville design. (Note: the Grand Prix upper strut mounts are very tall, contain a lot of rubber and are designed so that will undulate before the strut shaft moves. When using stiffer springs and struts, GP owners install "anti-pogo washers" on the top of the mount- held in place by the nut- to lock the excessive rubber in place. I chose to use a well designed upper mount made for a heavier car and for a sport suspension.... Forget the bandaid.) However, when I disassembled the Caddy strut, I found that the bump stop was rotten and crumbling. I couldn't find the stops without buying the billows and didn't want to invest another $30 buying a set of two when I was sure something else stronger and cheaper was out there somewhere.... I explored at AutoZone with the help of someone who took an interest in the project and chose Radius arm bushings for an 80's F250 Ford Truck. I had to order them to get polyurethane. I wound up with 4 useable pieces (enough to build two racing Eldos) for half the price. The size and fit is PERFECT! Above: the Grand Prix strut shaft diameter is smaller than the Caddy strut shaft. The Ford F250 Radius arm bushing fits in such a way that there is no slack and no binding. It will remain at the shaft base during operation. It also fits within the Cadillac billows (larger diameter than the Grand Prix's) so that there is no interference. Below: this is a bottom view of the Deville upper strut mount with the upper spring seat in place. Below: here is the bumper's fit if the strut tries to bottom out. There is still room for the compressed billows to fit in the spring seat at the top. Below: the raised area of the bumber doesn't contact the upper mount, in light a bottom out scenario, but it does reach far enough through the strut bearing that it might make contact with the upper mount in a hard bottom out event provinding some crush protection to the spring seat by transfering part of the impact force directly to the mount (seen in background). Note the black adapter that I made for the strut shaft. It is 3/4" long. More about it in the next post.
  7. Thanks for the complement and the story. I was not able to edit my post to add that I use a 7" Dewalt abrasive blade from Lowe's that costs less than $10. I also pre-set the blade depth so it goes about 1/4" below the coil and does not touch the coil bellow.
  8. Video: cutting coil springs... I developed a fast and safe way to cut coil springs. The process takes only a few seconds and does not heat up the water to an instant boil when you submerge it. I installed a metal cutting blade on my 7.5" circular saw and stood the spring upright with a piece of 1×6 board that I tapped into place with a hammer. I then stand over it using my foot to secure the spring. This allows the quick transfer to the cooling water. The board also suspends the warm end of the spring above the bottom of the bucket to prevent melting at the touch if it does get hot and it puts the warm end deep into the cooler part of the water. The cut end of the spring can be handled quickly. The metal integrity of the spring is not damaged. The only drawback is that you can only cut one coil at a time, but the cuts are so easy that it is not a problem.
  9. Here is a side-by-side comparison of the factory Eldorado front coil spring and the Thunderbird IRS rear spring that will swapped in. The swap spring's dead coil and an additional half-coil were cut off prior to this photo. The Eldorado spring is a variable rate spring and I have not been able to find the actual factory rate range; however, stock replacement springs in the aftermarket world are rated 135 lbs. per inch. Same story on the Thunderbird factory springs that I got from salvage. Unknown exact factory rate, but the aftermarke replacements are 416 lbs. per inch. After cutting, they should be in the 500 lb. per inch range- but that is a guess. I left the variable rate coils at the top of the spring to preserve as much streetability as possible. The springs are tuned to work by different methods. The Eldorado FE1 soft ride spring is very tall and relies on a lot of pre-load to support the weight of the car. It can then "float" on the low spring rate. The Thunderbird spring will have little pre-load and will have a firm ride that is made tolerable by the top two coils.
  10. The LS4 FWD car's transmission is a heavy duty version of complete crap. When the drag racers turbocharge or supercharge one of them into the 600-900 hp range, they build a Caddy transmission. but the external Physical dimensions of the LS4 is smaller than the Northstar and it weighs about 150 lbs. less, so yeah. I'd have to cut the front springs a little to level it back down and the ride up front would get even more firm because of less engine mass to resist the existing spring force and dampening plus the added spring rate of the extra cut. It might call for a softer spring to replace it since a ride that is too harsh will skate out of turns when the road is not smooth. But since the Eldorado's nose is about 190 lbs. Heavier than the Grand Prix anyway, the weight would become more like the GP and I might be able to use lowering springs tuned for the GP. If I ever build a 93 base Eldorado with the 4.9, i'll be dealing with engine weight almost the same as the LS4, but would have to get the Northstar car's transmission because i'd add the 04-08 Grand Prix GTP supercharger to a custom intake like the guy did with the Fiero. And the Eldorado transmission from 85-93 is stressed out at 200 hp.... Yet, I can get a posi front end for those.... I actually want to build a 93 for short track autocross where 30-60 MPH is the norm and use my 02 for the faster pro-solo tracks and road racing where 80+ MPH is common. however, an LS4 Eldorado built with hot cam LS2 specs would be good in both types of events.
  11. I would like to, but I suspect that the market for that faded out 10 years ago. However, if I do work out an LS4 swap built with 585 hp LS2 specs and can retain all instrument functionality, the car will be dubbed the "Carson GT" and I might try to market the whole package at some crazy high price, LOL!
  12. Note 1: if a shorter strut is not desired, the KYB struts that I bought for my wife's 04 Grand Prix GT (FE2 suspension) is longer than the AC DELCO Comp G model (FE3 suspension). I'm not sure if that is a brand difference or if the GP's FE3 suspension is shorter. Note 2: the Cadillac FE1 option that my Eldorado came equipped with is the "soft ride" suspension, which by comparison is a softer ride than the Grand Prix FE1 suspension offered in it's base model, so even going from an Eldo FE1 to a GP FE1 is a slight performance improvement and would be a noticeable "sporty" ride improvement. The naturally aspirated Grand Prix GT came with their FE2 suspension tuned for a sporty ride feel, which would be 1 step more sporty than the Grand Prix base model and 2 steps more sporty than the Eldorado base model. The next step up in a sportier ride is the V8 Grand Prix GXP which came with the expensive Bilstein (FE4) struts and are cosidered by the Pontiac performance fans to be more luxurious and softer than the FE3 competition tuned suspension offered in the supercharged GTP and GTP Comp G cars. The Comp G has stiffer springs than the GTP and maybe a slightly larger sway bar, but the same front strut. I made sure to get the AC DELCO brand in order to properly duplicate the factory tune of the competition strut which is what the Pontiac performance fans do when building a Grand Prix for autocross. Note 3: the Grand Prix strut swaybar tab is welded to the back side of the strut tube unlike the Cadillac swaybar tab that wraps around the front. This will give be more tire clearance. Note 4: I may mount a tab extender to the backside of the GP strut if the end result has the swaybar end links leaning forward. I won't know for sure what length to make the extenders until I know how far rearward I can mount the top of the strut for a caster gain. Note 5: BMW's secret to making a front suspension handle well is to lean the struts rearward at the top so that the caster causes the tires to lean in during cornering effectively creating a variable negative camber effect. Note 6: the GP swaybar tab is higher up on the strut tube and is why the GP end links are longer. Due to strut angle, this is actually an improvement by bring the force closer to the center line of the spring giving a thinner swaybar the functionality of a thicker bar.
  13. Here's a side-by-side comparison of the Eldorado front strut and the Grand Prix Comp G strut. The GP strut is about 1.25" shorter than the Eldorado strut which is perfect for a slightly lowered car. Also, due to the way the upper Cadillac mount is different by design, I have to use a 3/4" spacer with it. I can install the spacer bellow and keep the 1.25" reduction, or above making a 2" length reduction. (more on that later).
  14. I had a significant budget increase since my original post for this thread, where I stated that I was going to use 12.75" rotors on the front. I also had 3 years of time to research the best-bang-for-the-buck options on getting the biggest, baddest, track-car stopping, car show attention getting combination possible. Over the last year, I was undecided between 4 piston Brembo and 2 piston C5 Corvette calipers. In the end, it was a cost issue made on the following grounds: 1. It was going to cost an extra $200 for the calipers. 2. I would have to buy wheel adapters to space my wheels outboard to continue using the Mustang Bullitt wheels ($150) or by different wheels ($500). 3. The car will be a daily driver spending less than 1% of it's driving time on a race course. 4. The C5 and C6 Corvette calipers have a proven track record of success in autocross and are a very popular upgrade for hotrods built on a budget. 5. I absolutely LOVE the looks of the Vette calipers with those embossed Corvette logos. 6. Kore3 Industries makes a bracket kit for the Grand Prix allowong to use C6 Z06 14" rotors and C5 (or C6 base) calipers. 7. I am able to substitute the almost identical and much cheaper Shelby GT500 rotor. 8. Other than the diameter of 2 bolt holes, the Kore3 bracket kit will fit my Eldorado. 9. I know of no other Eldorado (or FWD Cadillac of any kind that has ever used this combination; so in a car show, there is the originality and car crafting element. 10. The 2 piston caliper is better at managing even brake wear when any play is present in the bearings AND they are much easier to set up since they are a floating design on abatement brackets. I'm happy with this combo. If I ever build a track-only Eldorado, I might opt for the 4 piston Brembo, but for this street car, the combo will be enough for some winning autocross runs and a reliable, easy to maintain road car.
  15. I will be instaling 12.75" front disc brakes and 11.75" rear disc brakes on my 2002 Eldorado using OEM parts swapped in from other GM cars. This big brake upgrade is being done on a very tight budget so I will be using as many parts as possible from a local salvage yard. I will edit the follwing statement when I find out for sure the year of the factory upgrade: When the 1992 Eldorado and Seville first appeared, they had smaller disc brakes than the later models. I belive the front and rear discs were 10.75" or 10.9"... sometime around 1997, there was a factory upgrade and the rear brakes were 11.0" for FE1 cars slightly larger for FE3 cars (i think it was 11.4") and they were given 11.75" front discs. However, the lighter C4 Corvette had 12" front and rear brakes on the base model and 12.9" front brakes on the Z51 cars. I can put those Vette brakes on the car, but it would require more modifications. The 11.75" rear/12/75" front is an easy bolt-on swap. My journey begins in the salvage yard; to be continued.....
  16. Removed the Ponies via sanding disc and added Caddy shields..... Better?
  17. As much as I like those Pony Mustang emblems, they just don't look like they belong on the Eldorado..... I ordered some Caddy logo lenses and ground the ponies off of the stock center caps. if I remember correctly, the lenses came with either 56MM or 64MM size options. However, I could only find the black ones in 56MM (which is why I needed to use the OEM Mustang caps due to their tapered shape. I had to trim a hair's width off of them to get them to fit. ... There..... Much better..
  18. Shortly after getting the car in Oct of 2013, I started researching various tire and wheel combinations. My goal was to find a workable setup that I could use on the street as well as the autocross track. After making a few measurements and considering the planned brake upgrades, I establish the parameters I wanted to work with. Once I install the 12.75" front rotors, the 16" stock wheels will not fit. Therefore, 17" wheels are the minimum diameter I am looking for. Because of weight, I limited the maximum size to 20" (not to mention that 21" and larger wheels on the mid-sized Eldorado looks too Gangster for me. These are 20 X 8.5" wheels with 245/35 R20 tires. So far, it is the only 20" wheel that I like on the car. I don't want bling bling rims, I am after a light weight performance wheel that looks sporty. I will post more pics when I can. Thanks to Arch Street Pawnshop in Little Rock, AR for hosting a half day of wheel fitment tests and pictures. I learned a lot and now have a clear direction to shop for a winning combination.
  19. For reference, here is a pic of the factory Eldorado strut in the front strut tower. That giant coil is over 7" in diameter. If I was to use the Eldorado/Seville FE3 "sport" springs, there would not be much room to reposition the mount for camber/adjustments. However, at this time, I see no reason that the Grand Prix strut could not be mated with the stock Eldorado spring and mount if desired, since the bottom of the Eldorado spring is very close in size to the Grand Prix spring.
  20. I marked the stock location of the strut shaft nut with tape putting it "in the crosshairs". To obtain success in gaining positive caster and negative camber, the new strut shaft will have to be located within the rear inboard quadrant of the crosshairs. I removed the front struts.... Looking at the strut tower from bellow, you can see the large flat circular area that I have to work with. I'll disassemble one of the salvage Deville strut mounts and drive out the studs so that it becomes a jig to locate the new mounting holes.
  21. I removed the factory strut tower brace. Note that one of its mounting bolts is also an upper strut mount bolt that protrudes through a slotted hole. Its rearward mount is a stud that is pressed in from bellow. I will not be using the factory mounting holes and this slotted hole presents a small challenge since there would not be enough surface to press in a stud. I'd like to avoid a bolt from the bottom side if possible because it will be hard to reach from bellow..... I THINK I have some hardware onhand to solve this, but I want to find my new mounting locations for the strut first.
  22. One forgotten detail about the REAR rotor size increase (which has z direct implication to the upcoming front brake mod... The repositioning of the caliper on the driver's side caused the brake hose to be pulled tight when the suspension was fully extended. To remedy this, I used a brass fitting that I found in my tool box and a longer bolt that I also had. The fitting had an inner diameter that fit the bolt without slack and the outer diameter was large enough to be a good foundation for the brake hose bracket. This homemade spacer returned enough length to the hose that it no longer made contact with the frame during full suspension extension. On the front, I'll be able to use the Eldorado brake hoses with the 14" rotors by making a spacer for the hose bracket that attaches the middle of it to the strut. (see picture of the FRONT strut brake hose bracket bellow)
  23. Perfection! Exactly what I wanted! The fenders are level with the top of the tires! This is now slightly lower than the front and as I bring the front down an inch or so, it will be level and low- but not too low. Now, I can go to work on the front.
  24. On the TOP SIDE, there is a "coil stop" that fits a factory diameter spring where I am pointing in the photo. My spring is too large to fit fully in the factory pocket and you can see from paint rubs where it locates. Just counterclockwise to the factory coil stop is an impression that functions the same way with my larger coils. Although these springs work well, if I ever change them, I will use factory diameter springs. In order to get the rates I was shopping for, however, I would have had to buy expensive 79-04 Mustang lowering springs and cut to fit. These Dakota truck sport springs were an easy and cheap experiment that taught me a lot in what rates to use for the Eldorado IRS. No regrets here.
  25. The shape of the A-arm and the larger than stock diameter of the spring prevent a conventional doughnut-shapped isolator, so I chose to use 3/4" heater hose over the bottom coil and an extra piece as a pad inboard. Note that with the extra cut, I was able to avoid wrapping the coil around the outer end of the arm and allowed the coil to rest against the center locator.