Jan Olsson

Kör du på 10W-30 olja vilken som helst av syntet, delsyntet eller mineral. Problemet är att i USA kostar mineral och syntet ungefär detsamma. I Sverige är det en faktor två på priset. Bilen klarar vilket som. En bil som har några år på nacken läcker däremot lite mindre med mineral eller delsyntet. Jag har för mig att du inte har rullföljarna på kammarna, kom väl -01 eller -02 och då ska du ha något som klarar av glidningen som uppstår och då dagens oljor är framtagna med dagens motorer i åtanke så är de också framtagna med rullföljare etc i åtanke. Som sagt, en nyare olja borde vara bättre men förutsättningarna ändras. Man gick från glidytor, fördelardrev och kugghjulspumpar och till dagens lösningar vilket innebär att dagens oljor inte har tillsatser på samma sätt som förr. Oljorna idag är naturligtvis mycket bättre än förr men de är också framtagna med dagens motorer i åtanke, inte gårdagens...Det innebär att du bör helgardera med en olja som är avsedd för långmilare och dieselmotorer. De har extra tillsatser för sånt. Jag handlar från oljemagasinet.se. Tyvärr hittar jag inte 10W-30 men jag hade tagit https://www.oljemagasinet.se/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2191&path=144_113&av=SAE%2010W-40|Viskositet Det är visserligen 10W-40 men det klarar den. Möjligen får du en något högre soppaförbrukning. Viktigast är rätt viskositet. Inte tunnare än 10W-30 men något tjockare går bra (inte 10W-50 eller nåt sånt bara!) Är oljan avsedd för långmilare och/eller diesel har den tillsatser som klarar skjuvning bra.

What he said 👆

If I ever win on lottery I'm going to get me a V16. Only two car manufacturers ever produced a V16 engine for a commercial vehicle, Cadillac and Marmon. Cadillac made two designs! The solution at the time to get smooth power delivery and few gear changes

A picture of my "new" Fleetline

Thanks Bruce!

Hi! I just wanted to re-introduce myself since it was a long time ago. I'm a male, 46 years old, with wife and a daughter, nine years old. I don't really consider myself to be one of the lucky guys in the world but I'm not a very social kind of person and that goes hand in hand. I have been unemployed the latest two recessions for a couple of years (in Sweden it is the last guy employed who is the first guy who gets sacked when a company needs to shrink their employee force) and have moved around quite a bit (in Sweden) just to keep myself occupied. You know the kind, the guy with few personal connections who has to take the job no one else in their right minds will take. Some organization theorists believe that there are three kinds of people, the guy who just tags along, the guy who likes to be in charge and me, the guy who likes to be the specialist. I'm working as a mechanical engineer (currently on a company producing labels and my department is manufacturing labeling machines with me as the head engineer). I develop all new equipment even if the whole department take credit from my achievements, especially if they weren’t involved in the process at all, like sales people, my boss etc. My wife is a nurse specialized in cancer treatment (half boss too). Anyway we had to commute so the time to do fun things like working on cars, write on forums etc. was limited. We live in a small town because we really don't want to live in a violent and criminal town like Malmoe (where I am working). The Covid-19 outbreak forced me to work from home which by the way suits me just fine since I can't stand half of the people on my department (not to mention being in Malmoe) I've been working as a mechanical engineer in almost 25 years and have NEVER been surrounded by so many freeloaders. I swear that if the management kicked half of the employees we couldn't tell the difference! As an example we had an inventory of the stock the other day, on guy was "sick", a girl aged about 25 complained about that she was not supposed to be there because it wasn't her job, and also complained about her nails being damaged from counting O-rings and washers. I told her to shut up and count how many spring turns there are on the spring and work instead of complaining. 😉 I've been on the Caddy info forum since 2002 and have owned an Eldorado (1988 year model with about 150k miles on in when sold, 50 k miles from my driving) a 1993 STS (with about 150 k on it when sold, 50 k miles from my driving) a 2002 STS (about 210 k miles on in when sold, 190 k from my driving) and am the happy owner of a 2012 CTS-V. The V currently has about 100 k on the odometer (70 k miles from me). Our family (daughter, wife and me) also like Jeeps. We have owned a 1990 Cherokee, a 2004 Wrangler and the latest one was bought last year. A 1999 Grand Cherokee. Of course people think that we are insane when we buy a 20 year old car with almost 200k on the odometer but I saw it as a recreational project. I always try to do as much as possible by myself when I work on our cars. No need to pay someone to damage or mistreat the car, I can do a better work for free. I only have access to a very small garage. Just enough space to change oil, brake pads and other small stuff. On the Jeep I've replaced all cooler lines and hoses, alternator, AC-compressor, radiators, brake pads and discs, brake booster, rear exhaust system, fan coupling, some sensors and electrical motors too. Payed the local shop to do the brake lines and rusted out door sills and some other small stuff. Now we have a 4wd in “daily drive condition” and a car that we use in terrain and all year around costing $0 in financing. Just got to fix the leaking valve gaskets and some minor stuff. We used it on a 3000 mile drive this vacation without the slightest problem. Now I thought it was the time to buy an older car. I bought a 1949 Chevrolet Fleetline in "daily driver" condition and I am planning to keep it in OEM condition. Unfortunately it is hard to get access to garages in Sweden and I'm searching for a garage to store it and work on it. I have the car stored by the seller at the moment and can go there to do minor work on the car but it is always better to have the car in the near vicinity than 30 miles away. I think it is in need of only smaller work. Adjusting valves, ignition and carburetor, get the clock and speedometer to work and other small stuff like that. Great car, but it is not a Cadillac. I figured that I already have a performance driver so it will be fun driving a Chevrolet anyway The car has an inline overhead valve six with about 90 bhp, three on a tree (first gear unsynchronized), no oil filter (option in the day) and an AM-radio, 6 Volt electrical system and vacuum wipers, no servo steering or servo brakes but it is solid running, no mechanical noises and reasonable rust free. I just love it

Hi I just wanted to chime in. I have had 2 engines with the Northstar engine and both achieved at least 360 k miles in total without problems. Regular coolant changes is the biggest contributing factor to keep the head gaskets happy according to the "guru", a guy working on GM perfomance division. Change every two years if Dex-Cool is the factory fill. Every year if it is the green stuff.

Hi I’m ni longer interrested in this item. Thanks anyway.

Hi all! I thought I would do a write up on what "problems" I have encountered over the years so far. Being that I drive about 25 k miles a year I have to do regular services more frequently of course, I also encounter problems more frequently than the average car owner will do. Bear in mind that I have owned Cadillacs and relied upon them as daily drivers since 2002 and am quite familiar with them and always do what work needs to be done by myself except from lately. This is because I have access to a very small garage and my rule of thumb is “if I can’t close the garage door after me when I am done wrenching for today, then I leave it to a trusted shop instead”. I also have limited possibilities to raise my car because of the tight space. My previous Cadillacs in order were: 1988 Eldorado (about 150 k miles on it when sold after 50k miles of my usage) 1993 STS (about 150k miles on it when sold after about 50k miles of my usage) 2002 STS (about 200k miles on it when sold after about 180k miles of my usage) Current daily driver 2012 CTS-V (almost 81 k miles on it and 53 k miles of my usage) Trying to rank them in regards of dependability is hard. Propably the Eldo was the best. But I guess it is comparing apples to oranges because of how different I drove that car compared to the others. I never did anything above the ordinary to the Eldo more than regular service but on the other side that car was not exactly a car seeing very high speeds and aggressive driving very often. I drove it fast, just not STS or CTS-V fast J Just a very nice car that by the way still is running with 165k miles on it. Of course there were small things that needed to be repaired, sticking e-brakes, leaking valve cover gaskets etc, but just minor stuff. Second best? I would say my 2002 STS. I drove that car HARD and the only regular thing I had to do was to change the front wheel hubs every 50k miles because they wore out. I also replaced catalytic converter, servo steering pump, crankshaft position sensors, rear brake calipers and the infamous intermediate shaft. Except from that just small things like fixing the driver side door lock. When I sold it it had the half case oil leak but it still ran like a champ. I recall that I have made several pages of notes on what I had done with it (the records followed the car when I sold it) but it was services and repairs for 180 k miles so I expect that list to be quite tall! After that I would say the 1993 STS. I bought it with burned exhaust valves on the no 1 cylinder and fixed that. The dampers for the RSS (road sensing suspension) needed replacement, EGR-valve, alternator and mufflers was replaced but besides that it was great. The “worst” car of them all is my 2012 CTS-V. Understand me right. This is a great car, probably the best of them all especially considered the usage it sees (seeing a lot of WOTs, hard cornering and hard braking) but this one I really want everything to work perfectly on and therefore it equals more fixing. There were things with the other cars that I never bothered to fix. The AC on the Eldo that was out of service when I bought it, the seat heaters on my 1993 STS and interior leather on the passenger seat, the half case oil leak on my 2002 STS for example. Simply because these faults at the time seemed expensive to repair compared to the relative use I would have from the repairs. Now I got a thicker wallet and thus can be more picky about what I accept and not. This list of what is done to the car is from my memory, I’ll have to double check with my notes later on to see if I have missed something. I bought the car with about 28 k miles on it and now it has done almost 81 k miles. Oil and filter changes when the OLM tells me to (with recommended weight and type of oil) goes without saying A new set of tires now and then, Studded winter tires lasts two seasons. Summer tires lasts one. (It is just as I expected. High speed rated tires wear faster than regular tires and my driving style doesn’t exactly prolong life expectancy J Front brake pads lasts a year, rear about two. Front pads wear uneven at winter time because of the amount of dirt from the road quickly gathers on the brake caliper and inhibits brake action on the outer pads. I thought about using less expensive brake pads at winter time but am reluctant to use them because I am afraid they will crack the rotors more easily. Exhange of coolant and rear axle fluid Front discs, a set a year (blame my driving habits, because I do J) And now a list of repairs/services out of the ordinary: Supercharger replacement due to abnormal noise (free of charge) Left catalytic converter replacement. Beats me what could have caused it to fail. Fuel trim values follows left and right cylinder bank very well which in turn does not point to vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks or injector problems. I did however change the plugs just after I bought it because there were a slight miss. I guess that this slight miss caused the problem to begin with. Time will tell. Signal horn replacement Trunk lid gas springs replacement Multi-function lever replacement Alarm modules failed (motion sensor and inclination sensor shortly after) Front wheel hub replacement I also have an annoying sound during warm up also. Can’t hear it when the car is cold or warm, it seems to manifest itself just above 70F or so and goes away when the engine gets warmer. My guess is either the alternator or servo steering pump. Over all I am very happy with it. It has tremendous power and stopping power, excellent road holding abilities, is extremely easy to drive (though it can scare the crap out of you, for instance wheel spin at 100 mph on a rainy road is no problem to achieve) and is fairly easy to work on when it comes to service at least. I don’t trust garages however. I know that I could have done the work better if I only had the space and the right tools. Screws and nuts overtightened, parts mounted the wrong way, shortcuts and wrong parts and fluids is just what you can expect, even at the trusted garages sometimes if you aren’t watching them like a hawk. I had to let the garage change the cat and the wheel hubs. Since we don’t have more than one car in the household I didn’t have time and space to do the converter. I really tried and tried the hubs but had to give up and it was a bit more shameful to me because I have always changed bearing hubs myself. L The shop had to remove the steering knuckle in order to press them out. But I will be prepared the next time. Found a tool called the hub grappler on the internet that I think will do the trick.

No one? Reasons I'm not buying from them directly: They have a $100 order minimum for international shipping No Visa or Master Card allowed (Bank wire transfer, really. It is 2018) and an additional $40 fee for bank transfers. Add on that shipping costs, 25% VAT on the entire sum and propably 10-15% taes on top of that and it becomes a REALLY expensive disc for me. I would guess about $250 for a $60 DVD...

Hi all! I'm hoping that someone can help me get a navigation DVD for my wife's 2002 STS. I have found the european DVD at a US company and if I could order it through you I would save a lot of money and time. The DVD; https://www.smcautoparts.com/Cadillac-Navigation-System-Map-Disc-for-Europe-p/10389457-env001.htm I use PayPal and will of course pay you in advance if you would like to help me on this matter. I don't care that the DVD is old. We almost never build new roads in Sweden anyway

Like when female drivers uses their cellphones, eats their breakfast and are doing their makeup while ignoring the right hand rule through the entire little town where I live

Multiasking? I guess that's one kind of multitasking

No need to be worried just yet. When I fixed some burned exhaust valves on my 1993 STS I used Time-Serts because a lot of the thread material came out with the bolts. No bolts were loose I might add. Some believe that the threads give up and causes the gaskets to blow. I believe the other way round. The gasket gives up and with enough time maybe a thread or two gives up because of excessive movement and forces in the area of the failed gasket.That phenomenom would show itself with bolts so loose that you hardly have to turn them loose which is hard to separate from the fact that they all require litte effort to loose even when they are clamping as they are supposed to do. Long story short, I don't believe that there are many cases where the bolts actually has loosened themselves. I believe the most damage done to the threads is when you loosen them. In your case the original threads may be fine enough to be used as is. How was the old bolts looking? Nice and clean or gunked with aluminium debris?

There is a lot of information about Time-Serts in the archives but in short they are needed when you have to replace the head gaskets. The reason is that the threads most likely will be ruined to some extent when you loosen the head bolts which are tightened very hard (and that was done to get as much clamping force as possible from that particular bolt). Other parts of the engine requires a lot less force to keep the parts together but this is a very tough spot whith a lot of thermocycling (when the engine heatens up and gets cold again after use) and the need to ensure that the gaskets seal at all times. No need to have them installed in factory but when you do a head gasket job you'll likely get problems again because the threads are weakened. Heli-coils are designed for repairing steel threads and won't work in aluminium threads exposed to high dynamical loads. Time-Serts are a threaded bushing that will replace the original thread. The reason they are used in some engines and not in others could be debated for years. But a combination of expected temperatures, safety factor against failing, material choises, clamping lengts, gasket thickness, gasket materials number of bolts and method to cast the block all contributes to the design and need to use Time-Serts.

Congratulations! That was a really nice work and I'm sure that it will work fine from now on. I really hope that you used Time-Serts for the heads? I understand the concerns about thread integrity lifted previously in this post but I think they are non-existent in this case. Time-Serts is what is recommended to repair failing threads on certain highly dynamically loaded points. For instance in head thread repairs, where the screws see a high dynamical load variation, mostly stemming from the warming and cooling of the engine. A Heli-coil would "creep" out with time and cause head gasket leaks. But a thread repair kit makes it possible to use the OEM screw size. In this case it really doesn't matter what size of thread you use. If you "oversize" the original thread to a M8 instead of M6 all the old material from the original M6 thread will be removed (as long as the holes are not deformed too much). On this particular spot I would say that the load variation that the screw "sees" is about zero because this particular joint works as a friction joint. The small amount of load variations the intermediate sprocket shaft sees does not transfer to the screws. They only see the clamping force that prevents the entire assembly to move away. Then there is the fact that you always try to make a screw joint as long and as small as possible to get as high clamping safety factor as possible. But I don't think it is a problem here either.

1) Använd inte enbart stora bokstäver EFTERSOM DET BETRAKTAS SOM OARTIGT ATT SKRIKA 2) Använd gärna ett rättstavningsprogram. Jag bryr mig inte om perfekt grammatisk svenska men någorlunda vettiga meningsuppbyggnader med interpunktioner gör posten trevlig och lättläst för oss som vill ta del av informationen. Dålig svenska visar på bristande respekt för oss som läser och förringar också dig som postar. Dåligt eller uselt skrivna poster gör att man som läsare tappar intresset och endast fokuserar på det dåliga språket. 3) Skicka endast PM till mig då någon bryter mot reglerna eller har andra forumrelaterade problem. Jag kommer inte att svara på några andra PM. 4) Om ni inte angett i er "avatar" vilken bil ni har, ange det då i posten för att vi ska kunna hjälpa till med rätt information. 5) Ange ärende i titeln. T.ex. "Farthållaren funkar inte" till skillnad från "HJÄLP jag har bråttom". Vem har inte bråttom liksom? Det här är ett entusiastforum till skillnad från kostnadsfri 24/7 support. Ange också i posten vad du gjort hittills med bilen som kan åstadkommit felet, eller vad du gjort för att försöka avhjälpa det. Nämn också vilka koder du plockat fram och om de var history eller current. 6) Använd sökfunktionen så vi slipper svara på samma frågor om och om igen.

Det är min uppfattning med. Alltså, gå in via caddyinfo.com så funkar det i alla lägen. Det är oerhört sällsynt med problem på caddyinfo.com medan det däremot verkar vara mycket problem om man tar omvägen via cadillacclub.se:s sida.

Hur har du kommit fram till att du behöver en ny stötdämpare fram? 15-20000 mil ska du kunna köra om du har CVRSS. En livstid om du har Magna-ride (sålänge tätningarna får hållas smorda och kolvstången inte rostar p.g.a. långtidsavställning och salt) Har du en varning om "Service Ride Control" ? och en tillhörande felkod är felet nästan alltid elektriskt betingat.

Eftersom du har en -99:a har du sista året utan rullföljare på kammarna. Nu har man under årens lopp (1993-1999) kompenserat grundkonstruktionen med andra ytbehandlingar etc. för att motverka effekterna av de minskade ZDDP-halterna. API servicegrad SJ fanns då din bil tillverkades och därför klarar din bil av den klassningen, däremot vet jag inte hur pass stor skillnad det är mot dagens SN (eller den lite äldre SM) som finns på hyllorna idag. Konventionellt sett är en SN-olja bättre än en SM-olja som är bättre än SJ-olja. Problemet är som sagt att man bara tittar på testning med dagens motorteknik. Minimumhalter av ZDDP är inget man bryr sig om i API-klassningen. Därför rekommenderar jag dig att använda en SJ-olja eller en olja avsedd för både bensin och dieselmotorer eftersom de oljorna har större halter ZDDP eller motsvarande för att motverka slitage. Castrol GTX 15W-40 High Mileage exempelvis

Nej. Jag vill inte lägga de pengarna på att testa.

Yes. Åtminstone en är såld. CTS-V ska inte säljas i Europa däremot, Europeerna vill inte ha hög effekt

Det man betalar för är ju oftast utvecklingskostnaden, inte materialet. Är det något som är gjort i förhållandevis få ex blir det ju dyrare än om det är en del till en bil i Volkswagenkoncernen t.ex. där samma del finns i samtliga modeller. Det är ju ett känt faktum att man skulle få betala 5 gånger så mycket för en bil om man byggde den av reservdelar, men vi får anta att priserna täcker upp utveckling och förbättring av mindre lyckade konstruktioner, återförsäljarnät, support etc. Självklart tar man sig för huvet då man ser en dyr del och tänker att "hur kan den kosta så här mycket?" men då glömmer man att den faktiskt ska konstrueras och produceras. Jämfört med andra märken står sig Cadillacs totalekonomi bra. Devillen var ett år det fordonet som hade "lowest true cost to own" i en test av motsvarande fordon. Då räknade man inte med några svenska ockerpriser dock.

www.rockauto.com där man med fördel väljer delar från AC-Delco som brukar vara OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) för de flesta delar. Suverän service och billiga delar. Moms och tullavgifter tillkommer dock. Billigare än hos vilken svensk butik som helst www.cadillac-parts-dealer.com där du får fatt i OEM. Dyrare och längre leveranstid men fortfarande billigare än om du köper från Klintberg & Way här i Sverige... Klintberg & Way i fall av yttersta nöd och då bara när det gäller enkla och billiga saker eftersom de kryddar räkningarna friskt.