Jan Olsson

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About Jan Olsson

  • Rank
    CaddyInfo Fan
  • Birthday 02/06/1974

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2012 CTS-V (wife has my 2002 STS)
  • Engine
    Supercharged 6.2L (LSA)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sweden
  • Interests
    Cars, engineering and economics

Recent Profile Visitors

8,412 profile views
  1. Finally! I've just returned home after a 690 mile drive to see and test the CTS-V. The STS averaged 19,9 mpg despite the fact that I drove mostly at 85+ mph! Still running strong after 190k miles! I bought the V and now they just have to fix some stuff before delivery. New brake pads and service the SIR-system. They will go through the car thoroughly and fix all faults they can find without cost. They will also get me the latest map data. The car needs to get a registry plate too and the Swedish department of transportation is behind and that process alone can take weeks (not very surprising)…. So I guess it will take a while before I get to drive my new darling. Obviously it is hard to comprehensively test drive the car in almost the middle of Stockholm but it ran smooth on bad roads and was extremely easy to drive. I found it easier to drive around town than my STS even. The Recaro seats were a perfect fit for me. Love the seat cooling too. I found some roads where I could test the performance and it is ridiculously fast even when not in sport mode...wham and I was going 75 mph! Braking and steering was in my tastes too. I tested all the functions I could find and everything seemed in order. The exterior is in very good shape, looks very well taken care of. The interior also except that the previous owner did not use the interior panel cloth that came with the car. Small scratches everywhere on the black panels on the center console and cup holder cover if you look carefully but I suppose that they can be changed. The V has 25 500 miles on the odometer and ran beautifully. So I payed the mandatory 20% up front and now the dealer will get the rest from my bank. Then I drove home in my STS which suddenly felt a little less compelling…The car comes with a 20k miles insurance (or a year, whichever comes first) and then my car insurance will deal with any repairs if something breaks down until the car has 75k miles on it. If I had purchased a V last year it would have been less expensive but since the Swedish crown is worthless compared to the dollar I expect that the price for a car like this will go up even more. If something comes up I’m covered with insurances and laws. Then again it is in reality up to the dealer if occurring problems will be taken care of since they now I have to fight them in court if them won’t agree to follow the law. But I am confident that they will live up to their good reputation if that would be the case. 30 years in business dealing with exclusive US cars
  2. It was scary. In any car with about 190k miles and 15 years on them one thinks "so this is perhaps it" when the car starts to act up and you see strange things. I have always driven the car as it is supposed to run. Hard but not abusive and 6500 rpm shifts at WOT at a daily basis. I think that if and when it breaks, I'll either fix it or garage it until I have the time and place to fix it. The V will have a ridiculous amount of power so in that perspective I’ll perhaps only use half throttle when I’m used to WOTs
  3. I just read the whole thread from the start. This is quite an adventure! I'm glad to hear that you seem to have a smooth running and beautiful Cadillac running. I have a 2002 STS with "only" 190k miles on it so I'm sure that the Northstar engine can run long if well maintained and with headgaskets fixed if they blow Did you ever open up the old engine? Many write about pulled head bolts. Just nit picking here, a blown gasket is a blown gasket but I think that the gasket blow and then that the bolts come loose. Not the other way around that would imply that either the thread material was weak to start with or that the thread locking compound failed or both. Since the Northstar engine has a die cast block the heads and gaskets sees more flexing and moving and this eventually causes the gaskets to blow. The same casting process probably also caused a different structural integrity in the block compared to a “regular” block. Perhaps a different alloy was used than in “regular” made blocks in order to enhance the overall casting progress. We have all seen and heard of aluminum in the head bolt threads but my belief is that it comes from when you loosen the head bolts (they loosen up really easy because of the high torque they are mounted with). What I am saying is that I’m confident that a properly done Time-serting is more than enough to get the car back in running order. As Logan mentions a lot of automakers use them so there is surely a need for them by design intent, not because of bad engineering… A cast iron engine or an aluminum engine with other loads on the heads, other clamping lengths on the screws, other running temperatures and applications and so on perhaps don’t need them. I’m just a bit tired of people saying it was a bad design or wrongly designed. Engineers can and do mistakes but this engine is also quite a different engine compared to the more common pushrod LSx V8s. Different engines and different designs need different solutions.
  4. This Saturday I'm going to Stockholm to look at the car, a 600+ mile trip but I’m sure the STS will work flawlessly J As expected something had gone wrong at the bank but now they seem back on track. I’ll look carefully and thoroughly at the car and examine it with a test drive on both city streets and freeways. Hopefully I’ll make a deal with the dealer but then I’ll still have to wait a couple of weeks more because more papers need to be turned, more stamps must be put in place, license plates ,insurance, taxes and so on. It is a very slow process over here to import a car. I have seen a couple of pictures and it does really look good.
  5. Yes! Hopefully no need for a rental car for a while now. The STS runs smooth, strong and silent as it is supposed to do again. There is only so much one can do to keep a car running. Regular service and the use of eyes, ears and the nose can go far in order to evaluate the car health besides the OBD system but electronics can go out without a warning. The STS has had a ticking sound for a while now which I was certain was just a tired valve lifter. But now it seems that is was probably arching that I was hearing because the car is purring just like a steam engine J
  6. It is less expensive and faster to order them from Rock-Auto than to buy them in Sweden and hopefully I'll get them on Thursday. In the mean while I’ll drive a rental car. My insurance company gracefully let me have one for seven days to a cost of only ¼ of what It normally would cost. A car like this, an Opel Corsa, costs about $70…a day! 0-60 in forever and 4000 rpms at 60 mph, truly an ugly, noisy and overall repulsive automobile: 90bhp 5 speed manual 0-60 in 13 secs genuine plastic interior cloth seats darn near impossible to adjust to a comfortable sitting position funny looking ridiculous driving behavior A colleague of mine said "What was that thing you were driving? Aren't you ashamed?" "Well yes, that is why I was driving it so fast! Otherwise someone might have seen me" I had one two days the last week. On day two the car started to act funny, I guess that me trying to make it perform at "peak level" if you can call 0-60 in 13 secs for a peak took its toll on it
  7. That just why I'm worried. All that dust is in just one spark plug well, the one with the defect plug. The other ones are clean. I would think that the rubber boots that provides connection between plugs and the ignition module keep dust away from the outside on this vintage. So my conclusion is that the residue comes from the exhaust gases leaking through the loose plug. Well I'll change the plugs and keep my fingers crossed!
  8. Ahh. I'm so frustrated. Everything and everyone in this country are working at snail speed. Darn communists with a strong urge to control and “correct” whatever does not need to be controlled, at snail speed, except when it is time to collect the taxes... I have to pay custom charges and VAT a week before I get my package. There’s just a lot of bureaucrats shuffling papers and stamping documents wherever you look. Whenever I order something from the states I can see that it takes a day or two for the package to arrive from US to Denmark. Then for no apparent reason it takes a week from Malmö in Sweden to here…less than 40 miles away. Sometimes it can take weeks. And how long can it possibly take for a Swedish bank to figure out if I'm allowed for a loan or not? In this country one does not live on his wages. Everyone here in the southern of Sweden says “that’s not where the money comes from” and pat themselves on their shoulders. We pay about 2/3 of our wages in taxes. Either they have inherited money or their parents have saved money for twenty years or so and gave it to their children. Then they take their money and buy an overpriced apartment or house and keep it for a couple of years and sell it with a big profit and can suddenly call themselves millionaires if they have been fortunate enough to live in a desirable part of the country! Me on the other side have no inheritance, no saved money from parents (I was the one lending THEM money) and grew up in the only part of Sweden where the population has fallen continuously the last hundred years. Needless to say I have not made a fortune just by moving from one place to another. Now I have the largest wages I have ever had, but the bank apparently needs to think this over…Over a week ago I made an inquiry and still have no response. And how long can it take to transport a car from Germany to here. I can drive there and be there in less than a half day, how can it take a couple of weeks to get the CTS-V over here!
  9. Thanks. I changed the plugs in 2014 so I would say that the "low maintenance" part won't apply here... I drive a lot and the plugs have about 75K miles on them. I am quite contrary rather particular about the maintenance and replaced the rear valve cover gasket a couple of months ago. Everything looked clean on the inside of the plug wells, but since it wasn’t time for the plugs just yet I decided to let them be. The other wells on the same bank looks relatively clean and nice, it is just this one that was all grey inside. My theory is that the loose plug let exhaust gases, soot and water vapor slip by and that is what caused the mess. Well Murphy always seem to apply to me. My -93 STS had burned exhaust valves on the rear bank, then again it is the one that is running the hottest.
  10. I’m just worried about all that fine powder residue I discovered. Black soot would be alright with me but grey metallic dust? I'm probably worrying for nothing. I guess it comes from the defect plug since the grey dust only was present at the top of the spark plug recess. On the bottom there were black soot as expected since the plug was loose. To be sure I'll give my wife the car
  11. I started a new thread about this topic "2002 STS with P0300 hopefully solved". I started at the rear cylinder bank because it seems like trouble arises in tight spots. Problem found and with new plugs the STS will hopefully perform as it should. Very strange though. Plug loose, center terminal had come off and the outer electrode was clean off. Scary.
  12. As I mentioned in another thread "Finally time fo another car", my STS suddenly developed a miss. I just returned from the garage and won't have to search no further... As you can see the spark plug has a broken electrode and the center terminal had separated from the spark plug. I've decided to replace them all and also buy a torque wrench more accurate than the one I used since the spark plug also was loose. Hopefully the problems stems from the plug and not from something else. I.e. I'm only curing the symptoms. There were a lot of residues inside the spark plug well. At the bottom nearest the combustion chamber mostly black soot as expected with a loose plug. Higher up, closer to the ignition control module, there were mostly a grey residue. I discovered that it was magnetic and hopefully it comes from the plug itself when it was disintegrating, if not I have problems…. I’ll order new plugs and will get my hands on a torque wrench that better fits my needs. I don’t want the plugs to come loose and I surely don’t want to ruin the aluminum threads. It seems like my preventative measure to use a torque wrench for the plugs did bite me in the behind.
  13. No wires on a 2002 STS but thanks anyway!
  14. I also noticed that the miss seems to go away after I let it idle with the hood open (trying to figure out if it was at the front or the rear bank). I miss the cylinder balance test that you could run from the instrumentation that I could use on my previous -93 STS. Well I don't want to ruin this thread so I keep you guys posted on the progress after this weekend in another topic
  15. I changed the rear coil pack ten years ago so it might just be time again. Well I have saved some old spark plugs that I know work and will test with them this weekend. The miss only shows when the engine is warm and that sounds like a bad coil to me too unfortunately.