Barry94

If I did it correctly, the diagram should appear here in this post. Crude hand drawn, however gets the job done.

Thanks BodybyFisher for the notification. I sent Terrence the circuit diagram. Barry

Hi Vince, just happened to check in and saw your post. Here is the text of the information. I don't see any way to attach the diagram, send me a message (IM) with your email address and I will forward the .jpg. (Can you still do an IM in this site?) Thanks, Barry ==================================================================================== There are SEVERAL things that can cause the "Service Ride Control" message to be displayed. You first need to be absolutely sure what component is causing the fault. Error S060 & S061 have nothing to do with the struts. It only involves the position sensor. These position sensors fail frequently. They are expensive to replace. Both my front position sensors failed on my '94. I could not give GM $500.00 each for $25.00 worth of sensors. So I "bypassed" the sensor to keep the computer "happy".. If you check out the wiring and also see if the actuator arm is still connected, and it still sets a code, then likely your sensor has failed. The following is a procedure to bypass a failed position sensor. There are three wires to the sensor. Each sensor has a "supply" voltage, usually 8V DC. Each sensor has a ground wire. Each sensor has a "signal" output back to the computer. When the signal goes outside of it's operating range (Operating Range 0 - 5V), the computer will report a fault with that sensor. The front position sensors work on an output signal of 0 - 5V, where 2.5V is the "normal" output for the sensor when you are driving normal on a flat road. What you need to do is to provide a constant 2.5v voltage to the "signal" line of the sensor. The computer will think you're driving on flat level road. (forever) You do this by removing the sensor from the car and removing the clear "filler" that covers the circuit card in the sensor. I used a sharpened popsicle stick. (Didn't want to destroy anything by using a metal object) Expose the three wires entering the sensor.(On the front Position sensors, Purple=8V, Black=Ground, Orange=Signal back to the computer. Cut them from the circuit card. Attach one end of a 220 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor to the Purple=8V wire. Attach the other end of the resistor to the Orange=Signal wire. Also attach a Zener Diode (2.5V rating) to the Orange=Signal wire, and the other end to Black=ground. (Resistor & Zener Diode available from a electronics store, eg. Radio Shack) This will provide a constant 2.5V reference to the computer. (After you have tested it.) Seal up the sensor with lots of RTV to provide a water/weather tight area of the repair. The computer will never complain again about the sensor. If you are looking for an "easy" fix, then perhaps this is not it. It is however a very inexpensive fix. You do need a little understanding of soldering wires.

Hi Ken, I sent you the information. If you have any questions, please ask. Barry

Good to hear that solved your problem. I had hoped that posting that information might help someone someday. Barry

Thanks Kger2 for managing the pictures, and also thanks Bruce for doing that as well. This site has given me such great information. Normally when I have a problem, I just go ahead and fix it. This time I remembered the camera. Posting this repair is the least I can do to help others on this site. Barry

ISC Out

ISC Apart

Location of Points

ISC Apart

I haven't posted anything technical for some time now. Dare I mention how well the STS has been working for the past few years. During the past few days my idle had become very erratic. The idle was ranging from 700 - 3000 rpm. The engine would speed up and down while in park and also while driving and slowing to down, just about the time you wanted to stop, it would rev and you needed to be quick on the brake. I suspected the ISC was the problem. I entered the Onboard Diagnostics and set it to monitor the Throttle Position Switch (P172) Sure enough, without the throttle depressed, the switch was intermittently switching from Lo to Hi. (With no pressure on the throttle it should remain Lo) Description of ISC. When the throttle is released it depresses the plunger on the ISC, this closes a switch in the ISC to signal the computer that the throttle has been released and to go to the idle mode. If the switch is not closed when the throttle is released, then the engine "hunts" and doesn't know what to do, hence the ranging of rpms. I removed the ISC module. Three 8mm nuts (stainless), don't loose the lock washers. Note: Remove the two nuts on the shift cable bracket and move the cable to the side to gain better access to the bottom nut on the ISC. On the ISC module remove the three studs holding it together. Once separated, you will see a set of points off to the side. This is the switch. I used a small folded piece of 2000 grit sandpaper and placed it between the points, then manually closed the points and gave them a rub with the sand paper. Then, after, gave them a shot of contact cleaner. I cleaned and greased all the gears, then reassembled the unit. I installed the ISC and it worked fine. I suspect dirt or some foreign material had gotten on the point contact surface causing intermittent contact. The point gap and actuation seemed fine. Not sure how to attach multiple pictures to a single post. If only one shows, see following posts. Barry

Hi, Maydog was kind enough to post the information on his site. Here is the link. http://maydog.dyndns.org/www/struts/ If you have any questions, I'll try to help. Barry

Britt, This seems to be a very common failure for Caddy's. - You asked if the mechanic may have over extended the sensor. The rod/actuator is not really attached to the sensor. If you disconnect the rod and remove the boot, the rod will fall out of the sensor. That kind of answers another question. - Is the rod attached to a variable resistor. No, the rod just enters the sensor with no physical connection to the sensor. Although it is sealed in this area, I believe there is a coil and that the rod actually is used to change the inductance of that coil. I spent a fair bit of time trying to repair one of my sensors. The circuit card consists if IC's and some tiny resistors and Caps. Since my sensor was intermittent, I could bench test it with it working as well as not working. I simply got frustrated trying to understand the circuit. That's when I decided to bypass the sensors completely. I even tried contacting the company that manufactured these sensors. That was a waste of time. At the time they were sueing GM over some issues. GM should be sueing them over these crappy sensors. Anyway, we can bypass them and eliminate the S060,61 failure codes. Barry

You have mail. Thanks for hosting this information. Barry

A few years ago both my front position sensors failed. (a year apart). S060 & S061 errors. I took them apart and had no success in repairing them. I developed a circuit to replace the sensors. Parts cost about $ 5.00 If you are interested, drop me an email and I'll send you the instructions. It's been working for a few years now with no problems. Barry