jcobz28

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About jcobz28

  • Rank
    Regular (100+ posts)
  • Birthday 01/01/1979

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2005 Cadillac SRX
  • Engine
    3.6L V6 VVT (LY7)

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    UIUCJCOB

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hoffman Estates, IL
  1. I recently sold my 2005 SRX and have the following items to sell. All prices include shipping within 48-states. If elsewhere, contact me for quote. Factory service manuals set - $115 shipped. This is the 3-volume set that GM wrote, 3,500 pages of detail, same as dealerships use. Retails for $305. Covers all engines and drivetrain configurations for 2005. Used, good condition. See: http://www.factoryrepairmanuals.com/2005-cadillac-srx-factory-service-manual-set-original-shop-repair/ J-tools needed for performing a timing chain replacement job. Camshaft retaining tool - $20 (holds cams in position while chains are removed so they don't rotate) Flywheel locker tool (bolts in-place of starter to hold flywheel while you remove the crankshaft balancer). $25 Valve-cover alignment tool (aligns valve covers with spark-plug tubes during cover re-install.) $20 Other parts: GM OEM harmonic balancer for 3.6L V6. New, never installed. $50 Pair of front stabilizer linkage bars (go between swaybar and front suspension) $20 shipped Rear hatch lock actuator assembly. Used but working. $15
  2. The circuit ties into the turn signals if I recall correctly, not the running lights. But if it is a turn signal that you have out, and you have replaced the bulb, and things still don't work, then it could be the problem. The turn signal sockets on these cars are also known for going bad, so visually inspect the contacts on your turn signal socket to make sure there are no burn marks or melted plastic in the housing. Flick the blinker on with the turn signal stalk and use a voltmeter to see what type of voltage you are getting at the bulb socket contacts. If you have less than +12v peak (it will alternate obviously... this is how it blinks) then you may have the same issue as I did. If so, just follow my diagnostic instructions above. Good luck. Electrical demons are no fun.
  3. Holy thread resurrection! I got those from KHE over 1 1/2 years ago and put them on my motor... he doesn't have them anymore! Look elsewhere. Try your local Cadillac dealer. Good luck!
  4. I had to "fix" a RSS sensor on my 96 SLS using the do-it-yourself diode and resistor method to feed back the correct voltage to the computer. Although the parts are like 10 cents, you can't find them at radio shack, and you have to order a 10 pack of each from digikey and deal with their handling and shipping charges. All said in done, it come out to like $15 for the 10 cent parts you need. So, I used two from each pack, and still have 8 diodes and 8 resistors left. Before I throw them in the garbage, I figured I would offer them up to other forum members for just $5 DOLLARS SHIPPED! For tech notes on the RS0060 code and details on the repair, see my thread here: CLICK HERE FOR THREAD First person to respond here that they want them and follow up with $5 paypal to jcobz28@hotmail.com gets them. If they don't sell in 1 week by Sept. 20th, 2008, they're going in the garbage!
  5. Tomorrow I am picking up another Caddy! It's a Diamond white '05 SRX, fully loaded with nav, bose, rear dvd, 3rd row, ultraview sunroof... I'm excited! Gonna go with the V6 this time around due to gas prices lately. Plus, I am not too fond of the N* motor after my last ownership experience! DIY timesert on 96 SLS... so not fun. Will post pics later! Glad to be back on the board. -jacob
  6. I'm looking into used SRX's and am having a very hard time getting all the options I want. Things like paint color and interior are most important since they are the costliest to change. One option I'm having a hard time finding in conjunction with other options I like is the factory navigation. Does anybody know if it is possible, and what is involved, with swapping in a nav unit, wiring, etc. into a non-nav SRX?
  7. Warren - I would like to buy one of these Q-ray bracelets from you right away. I am always looking for more power on my car! Please give me your address, and I will immediately forward a money order to you. The only thing is, my money order will be for $1,560,222 (THE SUM OF ONE MILLION FIVE-HUNDRED AND SIXTY THOUSAND TWO HUNDRED AND TWENTY TWO DOLLARS US). I was fortunate to have inherited this generous sum from my uncle, the great music artist Johnny Cash, who passed away recently, and left me this inheritance. I will sign over the money order to your name, and upon receipt, you can keep HALF in due considereation of this MAGIC "Q-ray" bracelet guaranteed to provide my SLS with 17 more horse powers. I will need you to deposit the remaining half into my paypal account, which information I will provide to you at that time. Please contact me regarding this urgent message by Caddyinfo.com PM. Thank you.
  8. This is just one more ebay spin on the old Intake Air Sensor "trick". All you get for $10 is a resistor, one that can be purchased at Radio Shack for less than 10cents. 10,000% markup is a good profit margin. All this does is wire into the IAT circuit. The IAT sensor reports to the computer, and the air temp value is used in PCM calculations to determine things like ignition timing and fuel injector pulsewidth (how much fuel is injected). Where the vehicle operates on the timing map table is partially influenced upon IAT, including many other parameters. This "chip" you are buying, is just a resistor that tricks the PCM into thinking that it is ALWAYS cold outside. This skews the PCM more towards a portion of the timing map that has more timing advance (i.e. more power), and to run a little leaner (i.e better fuel economy & power) for less emissions during cold starts. In theory, the chip should work. However, realistic gains are likely more like this: up to MAYBE 1 hp undetectable change in fuel economy The bottom line is it is a scam. Similar ebay scams have been around for years. Also, this PCM "tuning" is totally uncontrolled. You are not truly tuning each cell of the timing/advance/rpm map for maximum performance, or adjusting air:fuel ratios in a controllable manner. It just kind of blindly skews everything to be slightly more lean, slightly more timing, and hopes to achieve better performance. The bottom line is don't waste your time with this joke! Go get a K&N air filter or something else outrageously priced that will actually make SOME difference.
  9. This is the cheapest kit I know of: Click here. Easy to install. Just don't expect much.
  10. Vern - great news! Glad to hear it's running normal. I know it was a long road and pain, but thing of how much MONEY you saved doing it yourself and going with the AT&E rebuild versus a new part + dealer install!! Bigt54 - the main thing I'm saying is... odds are if the EBTCM has already been replaced several times, that it is highly unlikely that you got all bad replacement units. Of course it's possible, but I would place my money on the problem laying elsewhere at this point. Did you check out that connector near the drivers shock tower I told you about? Have you run any of the FSM diagnostics checking voltate/shorts/grounds? Don't take the dealers word!! Could have been some lazy nut-job reading your codes and just said, "yep. TC0073, that means bad EBTCM", and never spent the time properly going through the decision tree in the FSM. If you do NOTHING else, please just do this for me. With the ignition @ accesory on position, measure the voltage between battery ground, and "Pin J" on that connector. Pin J SHOULD be +12v (or system voltage), and it is part of circuit 242 which provides power to the EBTCM off of a Maxifuse. If you are reading less than system voltage, that circuit is your problem! Let me know what you find.
  11. You're in luck. I'm running a P0741 repair special at my home garage in Hoffman Estates this month! $300 + parts I just did my ISS sensor (P0717) on '96 SLS. Turned out perfect! The TCC solenoid is even less work, as you don't need to remove the intermediate plate to get to the input shaft.
  12. BodybyFischer - I like this avatar MUCH better than the Hillary Clinton one. That one made me barf. This one make me... umm.... *smurf*
  13. Most memorable moment... starting it for the first time after doing my own timesert job. I figured it would either purr like a kitten, or clank like cans when the valves hit the pistons from getting the timing chain wrong. IT PURRED!
  14. I have 4 people looking at the car this weekend! So hopefully I can sell you those manuals very soon. Cross your fingers for me! That's GREAT (in a weird way) to hear the EBTCM has an internal fault. I mean, at least it is definitively justified that going through all that work to pull the unit was required. Ya, dealer prices are a joke. 1 small module worth like 30% of the car's value... no thanks! Hope the rebuild cost comes in reasonable. Keep in touch! -Jacob
  15. What was the diagnosis on the EBTCM repair?