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KHE

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  1. Like
    KHE got a reaction from Bruce Nunnally in Key cannot be inserted into ignition - '04 Deville   
    It's fixed.  I could not remove the lock cylinder since I could not insert the key and the lock cylinder couldn't be rotated to depress the release pin.  That failure mode was not listed in the service manual... I could not find any information online other than a locksmith from Georgia who repaired the same issue on a 2001 Deville but the video did not include the method he used to remove the cylinder...  I called a locksmith because I did not want to risk causing any damage to the column.
    The locksmith confirmed there was a bent wafer in the furthest position in.  He removed the piece that has the two wings and worked it with a couple of picks and was able to remove it.  He replaced the bad wafer and re-installed it and started the engine.  I just need to re-assemble the covers, steering wheel, etc.
  2. Like
    KHE got a reaction from Bruce Nunnally in Key cannot be inserted into ignition - '04 Deville   
    The column is locked - I can't move the shift lever out of park as the key won't go all the way in to unlock the column.
    The column being locked presented a problem as I couldn't rotate the steering wheel to access the airbag release clips.  I was able to remove the lower column shroud and depress the lock pin with a right angle pick enough to rotate the steering wheel enough to access the airbag clips.  The center airbag is out and the steering wheel is ready to be pulled.  My puller is for the old style Saginaw columns that have threaded holes for the puller.  This one takes the type that uses j-bolts so it's off to one of the parts stores to borrow a puller.
    My plan is to get the lock cylinder out tonight and get a new one ordered tomorrow morning.  Even if I were to free the existing cylinder, my fear is that it would act up again at a more inconvenient location or distance from my house.
  3. Thanks
    KHE got a reaction from rockfangd in 2005 Deville Air Bag Light On   
    My '05 Deville had the airbag light on and a SDM B0101 CURRENT code.  It just happened one day a few weeks ago when I backed it out of the garage to wash it.  I store it winters and have put less than 1000 miles on it this driving season.
    The shop manual defined the code as "front impact sensor discard".  The manual concentrated on the SDM B0100 which is an opened sensor and there was not much information on the B0101 code.  I figured the sensor was shot but the retail price of the sensor is $220.00 - I decided to remove the sensor from my wife's 2004 Deville and install it in the '05 to see if the code went away.  The sensor is mounted on a crossmember behind the radiator - the splash shield needs to be removed to access the bolt.  It wouldn't budge so I abandoned the idea - if something went wrong and the sensor got damaged, I'd be buying two of them... 
    I decided to take the sensor out of my car and plug it into the '04 to see if the SDM B0101 code set on the '04.  No luck - I broke my T-30 torx driver socket.  I thought if I unplugged the sensor and the SDM B0101 changed to history and the SDM B0100 code set, there was a good chance the sensor was bad.  Sure enough that is what happened.
    I used to order parts from Brasington Cadillac in Florida - great prices and the parts were delivered to my door in three days.  They became Palm Chevrolet Cadillac and are now Davis Chevrolet Cadillac.  Long story short - they don't discount parts anymore.  I ordered one from gmpartsgiant.com for $159.00.  It arrived Monday and I immediately noticed  the screw was a left hand thread!  The service manual made no mention of that!  I attempted to remove the screw from the old sensor but it would not budge - even after removing the radiator support cover and spraying the exposed threads with penetrating oil.
    I then decided to drill out the screw using a 1/4" drill bit at a low speed to not work-harden the screw.  I got just past the bottom of the torx feature and very few chips would generate.  That screw was hard as rock.  I didn't have a cobalt drill bit so I kept drilling, keeping the drill bit lubed with cutting oil.  I got to a point where I was able to get a small cold chisel in there and gave it a whack with a ball peen hammer and the head popped off and I was able to remove the old sensor.  A cobalt drill would have made the job much easier.
    I lubed the screw that came with the new sensor with anti-seize and installed the new sensor and no more code/airbag light.
    I inspected the old sensor and could not see any cracks or any evidence of water intrusion.  I sawed it open and saw a small circuit board - something must've failed on the circuit board.
    I thought I'd post this as there was very little information on the various forums about the B0101 code and certainly no mention that the mounting screw had left hand threads.  If anyone has to change out the sensor on their car, it is a left hand thread so turn it clockwise to remove it.  If it won't budge, buy a 1/4" cobalt drill bit and drill the head down to the body of the screw.  The cobalt drill bit will make the job much easier.
  4. Thanks
    KHE got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Struts and Shock again   
    Mike,
    Same here.
  5. Like
    KHE got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Struts and Shock again   
    Terrance,
     
    I'm not sure if it is still working - I sold the '96 SLS in the Fall of 2010.  Hopefully it's still working.  Further experimentation on a '97 STS showed a 4700 ohm resistor did the trick but that was an STS, not an STS and the systems are different.
    The '97 STS went to the junkyard in early 2017 (at 225,000 miles on the clock) due to a cracked water jacket on the engine block.  My current fleet is a '05 and '04 Deville plus the '93 Fleetwood Brougham that I have owned since it had 15 miles on the odometer.  The Fleetwood Brougham has always been reliable as are the Devilles - probably one of the reasons I've been absent from this discussion board for awhile.
  6. Like
    KHE got a reaction from Bruce Nunnally in Struts and Shock again   
    Terrance,
     
    I'm not sure if it is still working - I sold the '96 SLS in the Fall of 2010.  Hopefully it's still working.  Further experimentation on a '97 STS showed a 4700 ohm resistor did the trick but that was an STS, not an STS and the systems are different.
    The '97 STS went to the junkyard in early 2017 (at 225,000 miles on the clock) due to a cracked water jacket on the engine block.  My current fleet is a '05 and '04 Deville plus the '93 Fleetwood Brougham that I have owned since it had 15 miles on the odometer.  The Fleetwood Brougham has always been reliable as are the Devilles - probably one of the reasons I've been absent from this discussion board for awhile.
  7. Thanks
    KHE got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 1995 Fleetwood Interior lights always on??   
    Glad to help out.  The Fleetwood Broughams are great cars - they'll never build another car like them.
    I'd start at the trunk tamper switch - make sure the wire is not shorted out.
  8. Like
    KHE got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 1995 Fleetwood Interior lights always on??   
    The lights on the headliner are switched on and off by pushing the textured portion of the lens.
    The exact symptoms you are experiencing are outlined in the service manual: All courtesy lamps and roof rail lamps stay ON with ignition in RUN or 10 minutes with the key off.  The information below is from the 1993 shop manual - your car might be slightly different since it is a 1995 but I think the main differences were in the engine and transmission.
    Check: Circuits 156, 157, 158 and 159 for a short to ground.  Also check for shorted front door key tamper and rear deck lid tamper switches.  Circuit 158 is the black wire from the central control module (CCM) to the headlight switch.  The CCM is in the trunk behind the rear seat.  Circuit 157 is the grey wire between the CCM and the mini wedge switches in each of the four doors.  They control the DOOR AJAR light, illuminated entry, and the courtesy lights.
    Circuit 156 would be the white wire from each door key tamper switch and trunk key tamper switch to the door mini wedge switches.  Circuit 159 is a grey wire from the CCM to the door mini wedge switches.
    An easy way to isolate the problem is to unplug one switch at a time and see if the problem goes away.  Once you find the circuit that is causing the problem, you can then inspect the wires for a short to ground or substitute another switch to see if the switch is bad.
  9. Thanks
    KHE got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 1995 Fleetwood Interior lights always on??   
    When the battery is connected, do the lights remain off or do they come back on?
    There could be an issue with the switch on the dash or one of the switches in each door that causes the body control module to think there is a door open.  Is the "DOOR AJAR" light illuminated?
  10. Thanks
    KHE got a reaction from BodybyFisher in 2005 Cadillac STS door locks   
    Daddy Dave didn't state what model of 2005 Cadillac he has but reading the information from the owner's manual that were recently posted, I am guessing it is not a Deville.  The 2005 Deville/DHS/DTS were the last models that could display the codes on the information center.
    Can you post page 2-47?  It looks like there are customization settings for the locks that should fit his needs.
  11. Like
    KHE got a reaction from Vince Gonzales in setting the timing chain   
    You need to retract the hydraulic tensioners by moving the levers and compress the end. Then place a small nail in the hole on the levers to keep the tensioners retracted.
    Turn the crank until the timing marks on the crank and intermediate sprocket are pointing at each other. It may take up to seven turns of the crank to get them to line up. Lock the crankshaft in place.
    Loosen the bolts retaining the cam sprockets. Set the cams with the timing marks 90 degrees to the head surface. Use a small machinist's square to help you get it to 90 degrees.
    Install the cam timing chains in the proper order as called out in the shop manual - remember LH and RH designation is with the engine in a longitudnal position (as in a RWD car) and viewed from the driver's seat. Looking at the timing chains, it will be opposite.
    When installing the chains, you'll need to remove the sprocket to get the chain over the sprocket, then bolt up the sprocket. Leave the slack in the chain to interface with the tensioner. The opposite side should be taut. I was going to upload a picture but I don't see that as an option on the editor.
  12. Thanks
    KHE got a reaction from BodybyFisher in Kent Moore Kit for oil consumption (j45076) tool   
    I did the ring cleaning procedure in a '97 STS I used to have.  There is no need for the Kent Moore tool.  The key is to let the top engine cleaner sit in the cylinders as long as possible.  It took me a couple of days - jacked up the rear of the car as high as I could to get the rear cylinders closer to level.  Poured in the TEC through the spark plug holes.  Let it sit for 24 hours, then lowered the rear and jacked up the front of the car, repeated the TEC injection and let it sit for another 24 hours.
    Once the fronts were done, I used a MityVac vacuum pump to such as much of the TEC out of the cylinders as I could.  I disabled the ignition and with all eight spark plugs removed, cranked the engine until the TEC quit spewing out of the spark plug holes.
    Next, change the engine oil as it will have a fair amount of TEC in it that seeps past the rings.
    Start the engine and go for a drive.  Hammer it and it will smoke like crazy for a few miles until all the TEC burns off.  Then change the oil again after a couple hundred miles.
    That procedure seemed to reduce the oil consumption but it's been so long ago I can't really remember.  The TEC is not cheap and you'll need several containers of it to do the job.
    The Rotella 10W-30 is a great oil for these engines.
    I do not miss the pre-2000 Northstars with respect to oil consumption.  I have a 2004 Deville and a 2005 Deville and it is very rare to have to add any oil between oil changes.
  13. Like
    KHE got a reaction from sonjaab in Stabilizer for decaying dashboard   
    I use a windshield deflector when my cars are parked outside (when I'm at work) and that has kept the dash like new on my cars.
    Armor all does have a low gloss formula so it won't give the glare on the windshield. You might try talking to an automotive trim shop - one they may have some idea on what to apply to halt the degradation of the vinyl.
  14. Like
    KHE got a reaction from babylon_nl in 2002 Deville Headgasket leak - Now what?   
    The Northstar head bolts are not torque to yield bolts.  They have a microencapsulated threadlocker that acts as an anti-seize and locks them into place.  There is no practical way of applying it in the field and there is not a substitute, so the procedure is to replace the head bolts.
    Glad to help.  If you go to Timesert's website and look up the manufacturer's specific kits, in the Bigsert kit description, it actually says "for use when a Heilicoil pulls out" or something to that effect.
  15. Like
    KHE got a reaction from Bruce Nunnally in 2007 cadillac dts 4.6 y   
    It is very likely that some of the valves are bent if the chain fell off.  Very unusual failure.
  16. Like
    KHE got a reaction from Cache in 2004 Deville shifter moves freely; does not change the gear.   
    Not a problem - No need to go underneath the car - open the hood and look between the master cylinder reservoir and the EGR valve (then look straight doen) and you'll see the shift cable.
  17. Like
    KHE got a reaction from Cache in 2004 Deville shifter moves freely; does not change the gear.   
    It sounds like the shift cable has dislodged from the shift mechanicm or the transmission or is somehow damaged. The easiest thing to check is the transmission end - you will see the gear position switch on top of the transmission and the shift cable attaches to a bell crank bracket via a ball/socket connection. Check to see if that is connected and observe it while a helper moves the gearshift elver. If the bracket on the switch does not move, you know the problem is in the column at the cable attachment point. If the switch bracket does move, the problem is internal to the transmission.
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