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About KHE

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    CaddyInfo Oldtimer

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  • Car Model and Year
    '93 FWB, '05 Deville, '04 Deville
  • Engine

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    West Michigan

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  1. Have you verified that the electronic level control fuse is good? If the fuse is good, check the suspension height sensor to make sure it is still connected to the control arm and the frame.
  2. It looks like there is an e-ring groove in the shaft but I don't see an e-ring to retain the green part.
  3. 10 PSI of fuel pressure is normal for a throttle body injected engine. Did you check the vacuum line from the MAP sensor? I think that is the one that runs from the MAP sensor down to the throttle body. Where it runs under the throttle body, there is a rubber coupler that can rot and leak and cause a severe driveability issue.
  4. Keeping the original coil as a backup is a good idea. Keep a positive attitude on the rear plugs - they might not be that bad - On the Northstar, the rear bank is no problem at all. The 4.5 shouldn't be that difficult to R&R the rear bank plugs.
  5. I did not hear the ABS pump running on my '05 Deville this morning when I left for work. Apparently, the later generation cars don't cycle the pump when moving at low speeds after startup so it looks like you need to do the barczy01 slam the brakes in the rain - although I think you could even do it on dry pavement and the ABS system would be activated.
  6. The coil is probably fine - the cause of the no-start was the button in distributor was gone. A new cap & rotor should solve the problem.
  7. Doesn't the ABS pump activate just as you shift out of park - a whirring sound that lasts a second or two? Part of the self-test of the system - it doesn't apply the brakes but it is definitely the pump running. My Fleetwood Brougham does that (and has since it was new) but I can't recall if either of my Devilles do it. I'll know tomorrow morning when I leave for work.
  8. The 2000 will have the transponder type key - no contacts or wires in the steering column to mess with.
  9. Are there any trouble codes stored in the diagnostics? A bad pickup coil on the distributor or rotted/corroded distributor wiring could also be the issue but the trouble codes would help. Have you checked for spark?
  10. The glowing catalytic converter points to a way too rich condition caused by unmetered fuel entering the mixture - either by a leaking injector or a fuel pressure regulator that has a torn diaphragm. If you remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and turn the key to on, check to see that no fuel is dripping out of the nipple on the fuel pressure regulator. If there is, replace the fuel pressure regulator. You can unclip the injectors from the throttle body injector (TBI) unit and repeat the same test - if fuel is leaking from the injector(s) then the injector(s) are bad. Another thought is there is a vacuum like that runs under the throttle body that can go bad with age. When it leaks, it will make the engine run very rough - just something to check.
  11. That indicates an actuator issue to me.
  12. It is probably an actuator issue considering the past history but you should verify the A/C: If the A/C lines to the evaporator are roughly the same temperature when the A/C is on, the system has a full charge. If the outlet line is warmer than the inlet line, the system is low on charge. Just a quick way to rule out a low refrigerant charge since a low refrigerant charge (that is not low enough to turn on the low refrigerant message) will exhibit warm air on one side and cool air on the other side.
  13. 2011 was the last year for the Northstar. That's exactly the reason I sent my '97 Seville to the junkyard when the engine block cracked three months ago. 20 years old and 220,000 miles - no way was I going to go through all the work of swapping the engine. The car would have had to have sentimental value to me or be in very good condition with low mileage to warrant all the work to R&R the engine.
  14. When Timeserts are used, the proper installation is to install the inserts in all 20 head bolt holes in the block. The Timesert kit comes with all the necessary tools to install the inserts. You will need to purchase the additional inserts - I think 10 are included in the kit. Regardless of the method you use, you're not going to have to remove the heads again - it's stronger then when it left the factory. Even if you did have to remove a head for some reason, the head bolt would spin in the insert - the inserts are swaged and Loctited to the block.