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About Patrick7997

  • Rank
    Enthusiast (250+ posts)
  • Birthday 12/05/1963

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2004 Cadillac Escalade 6.0 HO Vin N
  • Engine
    6.0L OHV V8

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Pewaukee, Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Cadillacs, Harleys, Movies, Poker, XBox 360, books, Small Toy Breed Dogs, 2001 Eldorado ESC
  1. You state that you changed plugs, and air filter. Did you change spark plug wires??? Bad wire???
  2. Hey, the Escalade turned 100,000 miles today! Still running great. It could look better, it snowed yesterday, and it's filthy, but when clean, it still looks great too.
  3. Great to hear. My 04 Escalade is about to turn 100,000 miles. I bought it a little over 3 years ago, used, with 44,000 miles on it. I have done some routine stuff. Oil changes, differential fluid, trans fluid, radiator fluid, plugs & wires... The front diff was rebuilt under warranty when I first bought it. But really, the truck has been everything I hoped it would be when I bought it. It still looks great, runs great, rides great. If I need to go and do a job, it carries my toolboxes and gets me down a dirt access road. If I need to drive to Florida, load it up, it's comfy on a super long drive. Pick up people at the airport?? Perfect. For what I personally need a truck for, this truck does it all in style, and makes it look easy. My nitpicky complaints would be accessory related, really... the Factory NAV is wildly overrated. Nearly useless for me, unless you wanna just watch a moving map... Map Upgrade discs are outrageous... I'm baffled and disappointed that no GM engineers ever heard of an "IPod" when they spec'd the radio... (I mean, really??? If you could afford an Escalade, you probably have an IPhone/IPod Touch, right???). Those are nitpicky complaints though. The truck is great.
  4. Sorry Splitz, I've been away... I had a heart attack awhile ago, but I seem to be fine now. Went straight to the emergency room, and within minutes, straight to the cardiac cath lab... Now I'm like my own used luxury car... Throw a few parts at it, do a little work, good as new.... You're probably done by now, but I would say the front 4 were easy. An hour?? It was no biggie. The rear bank, it's all gonna depend on how long it takes to get the air valve out of there. When I got it out, I was beat. I went back the next morning and did the plugs, and put it back together. 2-3 hours for the back, unless you have a better way to do it than I did. Hard to say if I had seen the write up first... I spent so much time trying to figure out how to get those nuts off.... I am happy to report my car is running fine.
  5. Nice! Enjoy!
  6. Yeah, I have some input... Check the Purge line as BodybyFischer suggested.... One step at a time. Don't leap to conclusions.
  7. Alright, I was getting a P0410 code... Someobody thought they fixed it, and then the car sounded like a shop vac when you started it... And then the shop vac noise stopped, and the code came back. So, I guess I need an air pump.... Before I start, this car is a 2001 Eldorado. These pictures might or might not reflect your exact car. Here we go. First, jack up the car. Then, remove the driver's side front wheel. Then, remove the plastic guards inside the wheel well... The part you're looking for is drivers side front, forward of the wheel well, tucked in next to where the lower front bumper area comes back towards the tire... There it is. ] A closer look.[/IMG] This is the new part. See that thing on top, the little wing, with the bolt hole?? That's gonna be a pain. More on that later. ] That white thing is the air intake to the pump. We are looking at the bottom of the pump now, looking straight up.[/IMG] These two bolts here bolt into the side of the housing for the air pump. Now, pry off the while plastic intake. I broke some of the black plastic tabs, but the pump is going in the garbage, so no great loss there. Mine had a rubber hose on the intake, that ran up and behind the front headlight, and had a mesh "end" on it... I'm not sure if that's the newer water resistant deal or not. Whatever. Once that's off, remove the two bolts in the picture. Or, you could remove those last. Not sure which would be easier. Anyway, the next step is the bolt on the top. This is gonna be a problem. ] This is the bottom of the bolt you're trying to get. It's in a real tight spot. ] This is the top. Very very tight spot in there. Wrench barely reaches, and it's hard to move the wrench. The engineers who designed this stuff really should be in witness protection, for their own safety... Sigh. Anyway, this will take patience to get off, but I eventually got it. ] The pump is unbolted. I thought I'd never see that.... Remove the power plug there, and the air line. Pump will now be free. ] This is a view of the spot where that bolt was. Real hard to see, but with everything out of the way, maybe you get the idea. You'll be working almost totally blind back there, so if you can picture in your mind what we're trying to do here, that may help some. Put the air hose and the power plug onto the new pump. Get it into place, and START the two bolts from underneath, that were accessible. Don't tighten them, just get them like halfway, to hold the unit roughly in place. Then, you'll have to attach that bolt at the top. I had a helluva time starting that. My hand is too big to get back there. I ended up using pliers and fingertips and patience. If you had an assistant with a smaller hand, that might help. Anyway, once it's started, you can use the wrench again, and a ton of patience, to tighten that bolt. The wrench will barely move, so you need roughly 1 million small moves, like 3 clicks of a Gearwrench at a time. Take a break if you have to. It's a miserable long process. Eventually, it will be tight. Then go below, and tighten those two side bolts. Your white air intake cover plate will snap onto the bottom, with a lot of pressure. I'm guessing you don't want that falling off or coming loose, so make sure it's on, and it's good. ] Oh my, the new pump is in. Just like we knew what we were doing!!! Heh heh!! Next, clear the PCM codes. My air pump didn't want to start until I cleared the codes. Lot's of people have posted how to pull codes & clear codes from the dash, so we'll assume you know how to do that. Once I cleared the codes, it started and ran fine with no "check engine" or MIL lap lit. Success!!! I was half expecting my relay to be blown, but it wasn't. Yours might be though. Driver's side of the engine bay, right on top of the shock tower almost, there is a little fuse panel. If you remove that whole big piece of plastic, however, you will expose a much more extensive fuse block. Like this: ] The relay for this is marked "Air" I believe. It's the grey rectangle to the right of the blue rectangle. To check if the relay is any good: Remove that from it's little mount (slide it down deeper into the car. Mine was really tight), and unplug it. When you look in the end, you'll see 4 metal tabs. One is labeled "30". Connect a voltmeter to the "30" and the one opposite that one (like 6 and 12 O'Clock, opposite). Set your voltmeter to resistance, Ohms. It should, at this moment, be reading infinite ohms, like an open switch, or an open circuit. Take two leads from your battery (or any 12 volt source, really) and touch those to the 2 remaining pins. Like at 3 and 6 O'Clock. When they touch, the relay SHOULD click, and you should see the resistance on your Ohm meter drop to zero, or close to it. The click is the switch closing, and with the switch closed, you should HAVE continuity through those 2 pins. Thus, zero resistance. Or, to picture it another way, The relay flips the switch, which turns on the blower motor you just installed. If this is unclear, google "how to test a relay automotive", and several decent youtube clips will come up. My relay was good. It just wouldn't run that motor until I cleared codes. Which, I'm not gonna lie, did cause a few moments of panic. Maybe it'd be a good idea to plug 12 volts into your new motor first, and make sure it runs & works... Now, with a new motor in there, the shop vac sound is gone. Actually, it runs so quiet, I had to put my hand on it to be sure it was running at all. I got the motor on Amazon for around $120. They list it as a "fuel pump", but the part number matches the air pump. Within a few bucks of the Rock Auto price, except it's waaay easier to order from Amazon. There you go. Now you can bask in the smugness of having done it yourself and saved a ton of money. Good Luck!
  8. I realize this is a super old thread, so I apologize, but let me add this... I tried the Original poster's idea with no results. The only thing that worked for me was to: 1. open the bleeder 2. Push in HARD while you are turning the piston. Haaaarrdd. 3. When it turns, if you are pushing hard enough, a squirt of brake fluid will come out the bleeder, and the piston will go in some. 4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 until the piston is far enough in to get your new pads onto your new rotors. 5. When it's all back together, use your mighty vac to re-bleed as normal. Enjoy.
  9. Thanks for your kind words... I appreciate that.
  10. Now then, on to the rear bank. Should be the same as the front, right?? Right. It is, actaully. Except... There's your problem!!! That's an air valve, mounted over the top of the coil cartridge you have to get out. This is a real problem to get out. If you're tired, come back to this when you're fresh. It's a fun one. First off, the valve is mounted to a black metal plate. The metal plate is bolted to the engine with 3 bolts. Start by taking those out. 2 are up top, one is sort of down below the valve. Heh heh, lucky for me, the last person who did this left off the third bolt down below, so I didn't have to bother with that. Another view Another view. Once those 3 bolts are out, you can move this thing a little. Now, there is a steel line that comes into the valve from the right, or from the driver's side. It has a rubber fitting that connects to the valve. It looks like it should pull off, but it won't. On the back side of that line, you will see that there is a metal "tab" on the back of that line, and it is bolted down to the plate with a 10mm nut. Remove that nut, and then you can pull off the line from the valve. Now, you will be able to move the valve, a little bit. It is bolted to a steel line on the bottom, that leads down to the manifold. There are two nuts on the back, on a flange, that have to come off. You can try this leaning out over the engine bay, or you can put an old heavy moving blanket out over the engine, crawl out there, kneel on firm points of the engine (being very carefull at all times), and then at least work this thing with it right in front of you. I personally think kneeling on the engine was easier. You can remove those nuts with either a really stubby 10mm ratchet (1/4 inch), or you can try a gearwrench. That's a stubby ratchet there... That's a gearwrench attempt. The gearwrench wouldn't move on the left side (passenger) nut, so I went to the stubby ratchet. Which barely moved. I was getting like 1 click per attempt, so this is a long tedious process, taking those two bolts off. Move the valve around a little if you can. It won't move much, but a slight move can improve your angle, and restore some of your will to live... When you get those off. it will move. There's a little black plastic line on top of the valve, that pulls straight off, don't forget to do that before you get all excited and emerge from the engine bay with your prize.... Ha! It's off!!! I'm giddy with excitement... Never thought I'd see it come out. Here's the valve, free at last... This view of the bottom may help to see what was going on during that blind attempt to remove the two little nuts... It's got 2 threaded studs sticking out the bottom... Again, before you get too excited and start pulling out the coil pack, unplug this wire here, which is laying across the thing, and will be in the way if you don't. This again is the 1/4 inch drive, 10mm socket... A longer extension is a little easier. That extension is overkill. I don't have anything in between, sorry. And again, just like the first bank, remove the 8 bolts. The back side is not silver, it's all black. Other than that, it's identical. Unplug the pack and get it out of the way. Pack is out, the nearest boot is out. As you can see, it's identical to the other side. These plugs may be in tighter than the other. I dunno if it's because there's more heat on the backside, or if the previous installer got carried away. I dunno. But the two middle ones back here were REAL tight. So again, do all 4 of those, just like you did the front. This is doable leaning over the passenger side for the first three, and the driver's side for the last one. Drape the moving blanket, or an old towel, over the fender while you're doing this. Let's not scratch the mint Eldorado while we're doing this, eh?? And when you're done, re-assemble the whole mess. There it is, reassembled and back in place. (g** d***** piece of ****....) Sorry, muttering. My 97 ETC didn't have that. Plugs were much easier before some genius decided to put an air valve right there... Hey, light up the smoking product of your choice, grab your beverage of choice, have a seat, and bask in the warm smugness that is only enjoyed by someone who did it themselves and saved a bucket of cash...
  11. Hey, I managed to change the spark plugs in my 2001 Eldorado ESC. If you're interested, read on! First, remove the 2 13mm bolts that hold down the beauty cover, and get that out of the way. You don't need that in place for what we're about to do. Let's start with the front bank, and familiarize ourselves with what's going to happen. You're going to have to do this nearly blind on the backside, so lets start here. That's the front bank in front of you. Part of it is the "cartridge" with the 4 coil packs in it. This is a coil-on-plug arrangement, so there are no ignition wires. 1 less thing to buy. The wrench you see there is a 1/4 inch drive with a 10mm socket on it. There are 8 bolts to remove. You can see the 4 across in the middle there. There are 4 more down low, not visible in this picture. They are not directly below, but off sideways to the left a little bit. Also, you may as well remove the black plastic covering piece in the middle, that will just be in the way. You may have to pull the radiator hose towards you, slightly, to get it out of the way of the 4 lower bolts. Here we see I removed the black plastic cover piece there in the middle, and the coil pack cartridge is pulled up and out towards me, all 8 bolts removed. Note: you might have to pull out your oil dipstick, to get the cartridge out. I had to. Kept snagging on the yellow loop at the top, and I was afraid of damaging one or both items. Unplug the plug on the right if you want to, or just lay the cartridge carefully on top of the engine. Coil pack is out. You see 4 black circles, those are rubber boots. There are springs inside, which connect the metal tabls on the coils to the top of the spark plug. The one on the left is pulled out some. Use a needle nose pliers, get a decent grip, pull straight out towards you. Rubber boot is out. Hey, there's a spark plug! We're getting somewhere... Note on the boots: if one shows signs of carbon arcing or other damage, all 8 are supposed to be replaced. Mine looked great. I reused all 8. There's a new sparkplug. I'm going with NGK. Some people feel only the AC replacement should be used. These NGK's are Iridium, and available quite reasonably on Amazon. Cehck your gap with a feeler guage. Check your owners manual for the proper gap. Mine was listed as .050 in my owners manual. I am told they vary. Obviously (or maybe not), to feel for a .050 gap, there is no feeler for .050. So, put together a .030 and a .020, press them together, and use that. Do this GENTLY. Don't force it! These particular plugs were gapped too big out of the box. I had to make the gap smaller. To get the plugs out, I use this. You're gonna need an extension. The hole is deep. My fingers have zero chance of reaching down there. Put the socket in there, get it on the plug, and crank it out counter-clockwise. When placing the new plug, remove the wrench handle. Just use the extension. I have a rubber-cushioned spark plug wrench there, so press your new plug in, insert it into the hole, and then spin the handle with finger pressure only. Make darn sure you're not cross-threading this!!! Finger pressure should be sufficient. You should get a good feel of the plug threading in. When it bottoms, put a torque wrench handle on it and torque it to 15 pounds. Put a small dabe of dielectric grease at each end of the rubber boot, and press that back down into place. Hey, you did one! Now, do the other 3 on this side. Exactly the same. My car had these E3 things in it. So someone changed them once already, at some point. Very strange looking electrode on there. Never heard of E3. Once you have changed all 4 plugs, you can carefully put your coil cartridge back in place. Make sure everything is lined up, including the spring in the middle, that goes in the depression in the middle of the engine. Press down gently, it should go down smooth, nothing binding or anything. Replace the 8 10mm bolts you removed earlier... And don't forget to put your dipstick back in. Done! With that side. I'd like to tell you you're half done, but sadly, we're just getting started. I hit a post limit once, so I'm gonna continue in a reply....
  12. A few photos of my new ride... Not new obviously, but new to me...
  13. I too would very much like to hear from someone who has done it.... I've been gone for awhile, but since I started missing my 97 Eldo roughly ten seconds after I sold it, I finally re-acquired, and I now am the proud owner of a 2001 ESC. Dark green with a tan top. It needs some TLC and a good home, but it has a lot of basic goodness, and I am enjoying it, and getting a lot of nice compliments. And yes, I still have the Escalade, and I still love it. Anyways, back to the topic at hand... I don't see any "cake walk" whatsoever.... I'm not gonna lie, I'm baffled. I've pulled the 3 bolts... nothing's moving. I'm reviewing these steps... this seems a little vague... Raise the vehicle Remove the two nuts securing the outlet pipe to the exhaust manifold. Lower the vehicle Okay, so I gotta get under the car and remove 2 bolts?? That I didn't see coming... okay... Disconnect the bank 1 intermediate pipe/hose from the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve Which one is the intermediate pipe hose?? Is this the silver one, with the crimped on fitting on 1 side?? Does it just pull off from the air valve??? Guessing, don't know. If it is the silver one, does this lead to the pump I have to replace, because I have a P0410 code?? Just wondering.... Anyways, back to this. Remove the vacuum lines connected to the bank 1 AIR shut-off valve Which ones are the vacuum lines?? Are these the tiny black ones??? Do they just pull off??? Remove the three bolts securing the AIR shut-off valve to the engine I think I've done that.... Remove the AIR shut-off valve from the bank 1 AIR outlet pipe Remove from the outlet pipe?? There only seems to be 2 pipes... If I'm removing it from below, do I need to remove the upper part from the pipe??? I feel like I'm getting more confused the more I think about this... And I haven't even started drinking yet. I realize nobody works here, nobody owes me an answer, or anything. At the risk of sounding like the Original Poster, has anyone done this?? Any tips?? Any digital pics of this??? I did the front bank, so I get the concept of the coil pack cartridge, and the rubber things, and the 8 bolts, and all of that. I feel certain that if I could get the air valve off, I could get this done... Anyway, thanks very much.... Try not to flame me too badly...
  14. Alrighty... I just replaced the fluid in my front diff.... and took a few pictures. If anyone would like to see how I did it, read on. (moderators, if this is in the wrong section, I humbly apologize) Again, vehicle is a 2004 Escalade AWD, with 44,000 miles on it. Before we start, let's note that I drove the front of the Escalade onto a set of ramps, and then jacked up the rear by the trailer hitch, and placed 2 jack stands under the rear area, to put the truck up in the air and level. I'm not that small, and I was able to crawl around under there with no problems. If you're gonna do the transfer case and the rear diff, it helps to have the truck up in the air. For just the front diff, it's doable on level ground. Let's start with the front differential: This is the drivers side of your front diff. Camera is being held near the drivers side front tire, shooting towards the passenger front tire.. looking across the front axle area, if you will. You see two bolts there. The top one is bigger, it's a 15mm bolt. That is your FILL plug. The bottom one, the smaller one, is your DRAIN plug. Always remove the FILL plug first, as shown here. (Don't drain it and find out the fill is stuck... that's no good.) Fill plug is out, came out no problem. Now we remove the drain plug with a 13mm wrench. You're going to have your pan ready underneath this, because when this comes out, fluid will be draining.... the fluid will be shooting towards you a little, so factor that in your pan placement... Fluid is draining... nice. So far, so good. That drain plug is a magnetic plug, and hopefully you can see, there is a lot of material stuck on there.... Drain plug wiped off... lotsa stuff there. Hopefully, I did this in time. Honestly, if I had an Escalade with 25k or more miles, I would go downstairs and change that front diff fluid RIGHT NOW. Now. You're still sitting there.... get moving! Joking. Okay, moving along.... let's assume the draining is complete. Replace your drain plug, the 13mm magnetic one. This is what we're going to use to refill the case. It's a little pumper, I have placed the correct length of hose on the pickup side, to go into a Mobil 1 75w90 bottle... I will put the long hose into the fill hole, and them pump the thing until fluid starts coming out the fill hole, indicating that the case is full to the plug hole... I've had that pump forever, I believe I initially purchased it at a marine dealer, and used it to fill up lower unit gear cases on outboard motors... Like so. Ready to go. Here we see I have started pumping, the fluid is flowing up the hose and into the case. When it's full, replace the FILL bolt, the 15mm one, and you're done. you know it's full when fluid starts coming out the fill hole. It took me around 2.5 quarts of 75w90 to fill it back up. An approximate number, there is probably some slight line loss with my long fill tube... Post Script note: I originally did this job last year. Shortly thereafter, I was still hearing whining in the front diff. The dealer stood behind it, and rebuilt the front diff, for free, which was pretty sweet. Now, it is May of 09. I have put 16,000 miles on the truck since then. I just did this service again this morning, and the magnetic plug again had a lot of material on there, lots of metal, and the fluid was toast. My personal service interval on this front diff is 15k, from here on out. This is an easy job, and cheap, if you do it yourself. I would strongly suggest you do it. I also used Mobil One 75w140 SUV formula fluid to replace the fluid this time. Hopefully that will help. Good luck!
  15. I guess I see your point about the car being under warranty.... You pretty much have to let them do the oil changes, otherwise they are free to claim that "The owner was doing his own oil changes, and screwed it up." Or, they could claim you WEREN'T doing the oil changes, I suppose.... These warranties give me a headache, just thinking about them....