BSchlossmann

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About BSchlossmann

  • Rank
    Regular (100+ posts)
  • Birthday 10/17/1945

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    Eldorado 93 / DeVille DHS 2004
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Elgin, IL.
  1. It's been a few years since I have posted of this forum. Today, my wife accidently ran over a large stone, actually a small boulder, with our 2004 DeVille DHS. The stone punched a 2" x 3" hole in the oil pan. The car was only driven another 200 feet before she turned off the engine. I tried using the search feature on the forum, but it didn't get me pointed in the right direction. What I'm hoping for is a posting that someone may have given describing the steps required to replace the oil pan. I was also hoping to do this without having to pull the engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...
  2. Recently, while backing up in the dark, the rear senors on my 2004 DHS alarmed. I immediately hit the brakes, but not in time to hear a little crunch from the rear passinger tail light. I tail light still works properly but now there is a small whole in the red lens cover were it hit the mail box. The only replacement that I have found so far is to replace the whole assembly used at a cost of $180-$200, or new for $250+. My question is, does anyone know of a place were just the outside red lens cover could be purchased? I was able to remove the broken red lens cover and the only part number on it states "RH >PMMA-PC< 278 100" I tried googling this information but didn't come up with anything. Maybe someone else on this board had a similar experience and could share their information. Anyway, Merry CHRISTmas to all...
  3. Thanks for your response. After reading your response over several times, I'm still a little unsure about the signal line with the engine off, key on, engine cold. I'm reading 0.0 volts, yours stated value was 4.67 volts. The problem that I'm having is that every couple of weeks, upon cold start up, the engine will cough and sputter for a short time. At this point, increasing the RPM's for a few seconds seems to clear the problem. However, the check engine light will come on, and the two codes (P0107 & P1107) will be set. My elevation here in Elgin, IL. is just over 800 feet above sea level, and it's good to know that the 1.2 volts on the signal line at idle isn't out of line with the expected value.
  4. A couple of times the service engine light came on my 2004 Deville DHS. Codes were P0107 and P1107 both having to deal with the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor low voltage. The 3 wires to the map sensor were checked with a DVM. I had a good ground, and a good 5.0 volts. The signal line at idle was reading 1.2 volts, and as the throttle opens became less. I thought the idle voltage on the signal line should be higher, or closer to the 5 volts. With the engine off, ignition key on, I'm getting 0.0 volts on the signal line. I'm thinking that the MAP sensor needs to be replaced, but thought to first check with the members of this forum to ensure my diagnoses is correct. The vacuum lines were checked for a leak and they appear to be in good order. The vehicle is required to be taken in for an emissions test. Just prior to the test all codes were cleared. This caused the vehicle to be rejected for OBD readiness, a "NOT READY" was received for the evaporative control system, heated oxygen sensor and secondary air system monitors. The week prior, the vehicle was on a road trip of over 800 miles. It ran fine, with an average of 27.2 MPG. Does the engine have to go through several ignition cycles before the 3 monitors above respond properly as ready?
  5. Carefully inspect the wires to go to each injector. I had a pair that burned up on the #2 cylinder, and caused misfires on the entire front bank. This caused the SES light to set then to blink rapidly. Mind had more codes set than just the P0300.
  6. At 200k miles I cleaned the phenolic spacers including the mouse holes for the second time. This time I stuffed rags into the ports to prevent carbon from entering the valve area. Took extra care in vacuming before removing the rags. This time the engine started and ran fine. The first time at 100k I wasn't as careful and this is when it struggled upon start up. As I said earlier, every now and then, typically once a year, or very other year after WOT's the next start the engine it will run crappy for at few minutes and then it's fine. I was just wondering if anyone else had a similar experience.
  7. Just curious... On my 93 Eldo, after doing several WOT's on the same day. The next time I go to start the car it runs really lousy . Studders, coughs and shakes. It sounds like it's running on two or three cylinders. The first time this happened was the very first start after cleaning the Phenolic spacers. I attributed this conditioned to the carbon that was scraped out was getting hung up on the valves. The problem cleared after a few minutes. This problems typically occurs about once a year, and shortly after performing WOT's. The problem clears after a few minutes and then runs fine. I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience.
  8. I'm suspecting that Brandon254 is a troll of a different color?
  9. Not heard of on this forum. If you Google "Cadillac unexpected exceleration" you will get a few hits
  10. I have had the same problem with the P039 code on the 93 Eldo for some time. The setting on the P039 code seems to getting set more frequiently and at lower speeds. There appears to be no effect on the shifting of the trans. On the down side you loose torque converter lock up and this wastes about 10% of your mpg while driving at speeds greater than 45 mph.
  11. I Googled "Cadillac "Service fuel system"" and received to following information. Hope this helps... Is your Caddy stalling out and not re-starting with a Service Fuel System Message? Getting a DTC PCM0231?.... It's a good chance your fuel pump relay contacts have loosened up. Follow these repair instructions: Background: STS quit and I would get the "SERVICE FUEL SYSTEM" message on the DIC. With PCM0231 code. "Fuel pump relay low voltage". This happened once before and I had replaced the Fuel Pump Relay with a NEW OEM unit from GM. Worked fine for a couple months, then it started to quit again. Upon hooking up a fuel gauge, I was getting 48- 43 PSI with key on... no start.. It start up and run till I hit the FP relay with my hand/ or jiggled it a bit, car would stall and quit, fuel pressure reading drops to 0... I'd turn the Key off.. then back on and I still got 0... If you are getting 43-45 psi on 1st key on....I doubt the fuel pump is the problem!! A bad pump will not show 45 PSI, plus if you had a fuel system leak, it would drop more than 5 PSI.....after a few minutes. Please do this first before replacing that pump!!! I'd hate you see you fork over $170+ only to find out that was not the problem!! Quote: From ewill3rd:The contact must be tight or the current won't flow. That is a fairly high powered circuit, the current flowing through that connection over time can heat up the metal and cause it to relax making the connection loose. This might leave you with a good cold start but when the heat builds up it will loosen like a bi-metal strip. I usually use a male connector as shown in the second photo to check the "tension" of the female. If you can get a male terminal and check each female you'll "feel" the one that is not tight enough. Compare the "drag" as you pull the male terminal back out. If you find one that is loose, that is the one you need to replace or repair. I hope this makes sense. The fuel pump circuits are the worst place for this due to the high current used and the terminals are just slightly too small to handle it over a really really long time. Here is what I had to do: (Seville SLS STS Version) * Disconnect battery * Locate the Fuel Pump Relay (Forward (engine) compartment, drivers side junction block). * Remove the electrical center cover * Disengage the sub-terminal block containing the fuel pump/AC relay from the main block. (disengage 4 clips at bottom - pull up) * Remove the FP relay. * Remove the blue terminal locking clip on the side of the sub block. * Using a Terminal release tool, Release the female FP relay terminal pins from the sub block.(Release/repair & re-install one at a time to prevent mis-locating pins) * Bend the clips in the pins toward the opposite side to decrease the gap. (Release/repair & re-install one at a time to prevent mis-locating pins) * Re-insert terminal pins into the sub-block. (Release/repair & re-install one at a time to prevent mis-locating pins) * reinstall blue locking clip. * Reinstall sub block assy. to the main block. * Using mini-pliers, very slightly twist each one of the male pins on the FP relay. * Re-install relay. Re-connect Battery. * Turn key to run, check for fuel pressure. * Start car. * Re-install electrical center cover. * Enjoy the Cadillac!!! In addition to the above, using a test light I checked for power at the heavy pink wire at key turn on to ensure power delivery before starting the above repair. Most likely you can not see a loose contact(s).. I strongly urge you to hit/ jiggle the FP relay the next time you get it started... If it quits or the Fuel pressure drops, I'm willing to bet it's the FP relay contacts
  12. What has worked well in the past for me is spray carburator cleaner.
  13. With having no power what so ever, I would take a volt meter and check the voltage across the battery and then check the positive side of the battery to a ground anywhere on the engine or frame. It sounds as though you either have a bad ground or a poor power connection. As previously recommended, take the connections off the battery and give them a good cleaning. There also exists a possibilty that one or both of these cables a corroded out from the inside. This means that from the outside it looks good but can't carry any current. Lastly, have the squirrels decided to take up residence in your engine compartment and choose the cable(s) for a snack.
  14. Besides cleaning your EGR valve you may want to decarbon the engine. The 93/94 4.6L engines have phanolic spacers between the intake manifold and the heads. They should be cleaned every 100k miles. This is also referred to as de-carboning the engine. Remove the 4 bolts in the top cover and raise up the intake manifold on the passinger side just enough to insert a 2X4 to hold it up out of the way. The spacers lift out easily. Plug the intake ports in the head with rags while doing the scraping and then vaccuum thoroughly. Then do the same thing on the other head. Becareful not to raise up the manifold any more than necessary, you don't want to bend the fuel lines. Be sure to scrap out the mouse holes in the heads, the little "V" notch. This cleaning should improve your gas mileage by 10%.
  15. Perform a search on 1287, and you will come up with 2 entries in the archives. Read both entries. Since you just had your brake worked on there is a possibility that the brake pad wear sensor weren't re-installed properly or it's the steering sensor. Below is the response from KHE... The steering position sensor is at the base of the steering column according to the shop manual. That should be at or near the firewall but I didn't have enough time to verify that. If the steering sensor is bad, that is why you're getting the service stability system message. The brake pad sensor message is either one of two three things: 1) someone knocked the plug loose when they were R&Ring the rotors. 2) the pads are worn out. 3) The pads were replaced and new sensors were not used.