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Everything posted by BodybyFisher

  1. Problem: Fast idle, about 1,200 RPM in drive and 3,000 RPM in Neutral. Intermittently at first, first time was a surprise. Historically I know that on the pre-1996 Northstars, this is due to the ISC Motor or Idle Speed Control. Our friend and member @Barry94 did a terrific write-up back in 2005 that has always been helpful in understanding and diagnosing the ISC motor. This thread was a walk down memory lane for me. So many members I had gotten to know in this thread, that contributed so much to making caddyinfo the terrific resource it is, their help and knowledge is preserved in threads like this, I miss them all. My name in this thread is Scotty (retired). Barry's outstanding writeup is here: Removal of the ISC motor was a lot harder than I recall from 91 Seville. There are three nuts to remove it once the cruise control servo is removed, one of which is difficult to get at. If I had a throttle body to intake o-ring, I would have removed the throttle body to make it easier. Important TIP, never remove the throttle body without having a replacement o-ring on hand. Once you remove the throttle body, the rubber O-ring expands SOO much that it is unusable and cannot be reinstalled. The heat, fuel and oil must swell the rubber and as long as its contained, all is good, haha, but remove it and its like a Jack in the Box or Can of Snakes, bam, now too big to go back... don't ask me how I know that Here are the parts disassembled, it was terribly dirty, the grease was dried out and the unit was very worn out. No doubt this is either the original, or it has done its job well for a very long time. Other than being very worn, I didn't see anything that would have caused my high idle, the closed throttle contacts looked good and tested good with an ohm meter. But the commutator was worn very bad, it had sort of a valley worn into it from the brushes as seen here (bad photo, I know, sorry). This is an interesting motor in that the commutator is oriented as a disk or turntable that the brushes skate on verses the typical motors we are used to where the commutator is a rotating cylinder with the brushes from the sides. Badly worn washer/ring, grooved Stator and magnets. The 'bearing' at the bottom was dry and sticky. Two brush holes, note spring stuck in hole, I had hoped that this was my problem that the spring was not supplying adequate pressure given the commutator wear. In actuality, that might by the problem here, the commutator turntable was worn so badly that there was a groove, that groove causes the brush to apply less pressure as the spring is less compressed and the brush sticks out further causing less stability in the brush. I don't think this ISC is salvageable. Gears gummed up I didn't have a whole lot of hope that I could fix this unit given the wear and that I didn't find a problem besides the bad wear. This unit owes the owner nothing. But I cleaned it up really good, lubed it up and reassembled it. Getting that lower nut on is NO fun, good thing I have the dexterity of a brain surgeon but make sure you cover the area below the nut, if you drop the nut, kiss it goodbye, it ends up down by the steering rack lost forever (don't ask me how I know that its an M5 nut ) << hands of a surgeon? No good.. engine still racing today intermittantly. Ordered new one from Rockauto, arrives tomorrow. To be continued. Its time for a new camera
  2. Very odd that you didn't find anything. How did the alternator feel? Pay close attention to the AC compressor
  3. Buy a Balkamp block tester from NAPA it is $47. Follow the directions and do the test. The kit works very good and I have had mine for many years and did many tests.
  4. When my 02 Monte had a clogged cat, it had a P0420.
  5. Yes, P0420 catalyst system low efficiency You can check for car backpressure with this it screws into the o2 sensor port
  6. Looks like a beauty! Welcome back!
  7. @BravoSierra I edited the post above please re-read. New Galaxy S7 likes to change spelling to the wrong words
  8. Did you spin the A.C. hub? Key off! Have someone hold the breaker bar, someone you trust not to slip or let go and grab the hub with both hands and see if it rocks or has play. When that bearing begins to go bad it will cock and bind on the compressor itself. Look under the hood for a belt diagram. Take the belt off altogether, don't replace it yet until you find the problem as you could damage the new belt. Don't remove it unless there is a diagram, there should be one. When you install it start from the bottom and work up being sure that belt is in the pulley grooves. Use a broom stick cut to 4 feet to guide it onto the crank pulley. When the belt is off check each pulley for looseness,.roughness, binding. Check A.C. and alternator, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, air pump if you have one, steering, etc. If you want to listen, use a 3/4 inch hose about 3 feet long and carefully, CAREFULLY, place the end of the hose near every moving pulley and the other end by your ear. Work slow and safe, stay clear of moving parts, no loose clothes or strings or hair....
  9. It's a good tool to have, you will love it for tough lug nuts and axle nuts.
  10. It is possible that your A.C. compressor hub bearing is shot and binds. Do not drive far till you confirm. Remove belt and rotate each accessory and feel for roughness and drag. I had an A.C. hub go bad, it makes racket and will smoke, squeal, and throw belts off. How does it sound?
  11. Direct a message at me if you are in a rush using the @ sign, like this and Ill see it faster, I get a message, do this >> @BodybyFisher The coils will discharge the battery quickly without the alternator. The symptoms make it sound like you lost a belt, I am surprised you didn't. It's rare for an alternator to seize but I suppose it's possible. Something caused your battery to drain
  12. @BravoSierra It is possible that an accessory seized, an idler wheel, alternator, ac compressor, steering, or tensioner. Check the battery voltage with your meter what is the volts? Recharge the battery with a portable charger back to full charge. Stay clear and have someone start the car and look, at the belt area for something seized. It may not turn over as an accessory is seized, look at lights to see if they dim but the engine doesn't turn. Do not hold key more than 5 seconds if lights dim and engine does NOT turn. If engine starts and there is a squeal locate it fast and turn engine off. Stay out of the line of the belt in case it breaks, do NOT hang your head over the belt!! Be careful, keep hands away
  13. Our fields overlap, I was an MAI commercial real estate appraiser for 25 years, appraised apartments, office buildings, malls, retail, land, industrial and other types. I taught cash flow analysis software at NUT. <<< example it should be NYU I am really disliking the continuous spell checking on my new galaxy S7, it insists it knows better.
  14. See this link, it has good info I have found Sonnax to have good info and tech reports
  15. Thank you, that Sonnax link was meant for another thread, but good that you.saved it, it's a good resource. What do you do for a living?
  16. I have found Sonnax to have good info and tech reports
  17. Thanks Kevin, I recall Logan commenting on the P1860 years ago. I need to save that someplace. They give my friend a hard time with the P0741 at every state inspection (NY). The slippage threshold for setting it is about 300 rpm based on my inspection of his code using a Tech2.
  18. I hope you all can see this you may not be able to, look at the ridiculous replies to this guys question
  19. Just trying to help a fellow caddy lover,.thank you, impressive work sir. You know I have joined a few Cadillac groups on Facebook and it's a raw free for all. Members insulting other members for their suggestions people in "Cadillac lovers" groups dumping on Cadillac, it is the wild west. Over The last 2 weeks I have tried to explain that everybody has different experiences but no suggestion should be criticized, and that it's brainstorming. I'll be paring down my group memberships, it's frustrating This thread is an example of everybody contributing to a final goal, Logan, brought up the ECM tap test and his experience. Brainstorming is powerful
  20. Put the plunger at the same length and you should do good. Once it's in you can check the gap. Given that these cars are getting older, I like to clean the connectors with electrical contact cleaner. You did a great diagnosis job, I am sure it will run terrific. I am sorry I didn't get to help you more, I am going through major life changes and my focus is elsewhere. That is why I lured @OldCadTech into this his expertise is a valuable asset to caddyinfo and I want to thank him. Can't wait to see the results
  21. Have you looked at the serpentine belt to see if it self destructed? Do you have a volt meter? @BravoSierra
  22. Yes! My 2002 Monte Carlo had It! Part replaced noise gone! Good catch Logan