Nohilow

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About Nohilow

  • Rank
    Participant (30+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2002 deville
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. R + R 'd my driver window regulator a few weeks ago and put it all back together as best as I could. Window regulator works fine. (Napa, approx. $80) Now, occasionally, when I open my door, (even the passenger door) my car alarm goes off, won't cancel with my pendant red button, but will go off when I put key in ignition. A message"theft attempted" shows up on my display. It doesn't seem to do it when I use the remote to open the door locks. I'm hoping that there is a "reset" somewhere to stop this, and will not require me to open up the panel again. Is there some connection I missed on the door? Gurus...do your stuff! signed...Hopeful
  2. Thanks, It is running quite well, and with the new gas, the smell is gone. Very glad the codes are not engine related...
  3. Thanks...the bad window refers to my driver door regulator which i am replacing this weekend...napa for $81. Every time I take off a door panel, I always worry about screwing up the clip or the panel in some way. The utube vid I saw made it appear that that should not be a problem. Perhaps the Cad clips are a better design? ....I'll find out this weekend! Rest of the procedure looked pretty straightforward and benefits from a better design. Love the protective panel instead of plastic sheet. Not sure why the rear seat temp is throwing a code. They seem to be working just fine. BTW, where is the best place to go for the codes?
  4. Thanks, I am not as worried about this since I emptied and refilled the tank. The strong odor was such a change that I immediately went tp the dark side and assumed the cat was bad. I've got a nice trip planned to stretch out her legs.
  5. Finally took the codes...and ran it down to near empty, then re-filled with name brand. Previous was Costco. Haven't noticed any smell...maybe the gas saved my *smurf*...:) But did show these "current" codes....and thankfully no "B0420" RFA B3109 IPM B0429 DDM B3832 DDM B1591 BodybyFisher: the link to the DTC codes, in your signature, for 1996 and above does not work...at least not for me!
  6. Noticed rotten eggs odor in garage after a drive... Please tell me there are aftermarket alternatives to a factory cat convertor... $2166.00 from Cadillac. Gulp. Internet search showed people dissatisfied with ones they purchased that were not dealer supplied. Is there an aftermarket one that others know will do the job?
  7. John,

    Hope you are finally getting some of this nice weather we are getting. It's about time,huh?

    hope I can pick your brain a little bit more....

    Drivers side window reg went out, from what I've read, "pop and drop"....

    Do you have any online recommendations for a place to get the window reg?

     

     

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. Nohilow

      Nohilow

      yeah, it's a crap shoot as to quality anymore,huh?

      I also got a call back from a company advertising here in PDX something along the lines of "power window doctor" a moblile outfit that comes to you to do it. Quoted me price of 279,00 for the job. parts and labor.

      I've looked at a utube that makes it eazy peazy, so all I am trying to do is find the cheapest. The utube vid had a link on it to also Purchase a win reg if you needed one. I called the guy this morning (he's in fla) and his charge for the reg was.....45.00 (shipped from fla!) I ;asked him about a warranty and he said  they are from China, "pretty good" and he felt they were reliable for a "few years"...maybe as many as 4! 

      thanks anyway....!

      Looks like some nice weather ahead the next few days...so...looks like a good time to change out a window regulator!

       

    3. OldCadTech

      OldCadTech

      I never have any luck with the China stuff... 

      Sunday is gonna be oil change day at home, for 2 of the cars, the Harley, the lawn mower and the generator. The generator gets the left-overs from the Mobil 1.

      All that happens AFTER I do some honey-dos of course :)

       

    4. Nohilow

      Nohilow

      ....they never end, but I like the honey, so.....:P

  8. Problem Resolved! My recliner problem has been put on the back burner till I was able to get some health issues in order. Finally, made a few local inquiries and after receiving some good reviews on a local Auto Upholstery shop I took it in and left it with them. They had a line on another similar seat that we could scavenge for parts if necessary, and would give it a look over. The next day they called and said they had taken the seat out and checked all the electrical items and they were functioning correctly, so they shined up everything that needed shining and reassembled. Seat works like it is supposed to. I was ready for a big headache and once again the Caddy Gods shone down their light of mercy upon me. Thanks for all your input!
  9. I am scheduled for a diagnosis. Don't know how indepth that will be...it's a chevy dealer. I assume the part is going to be a pulled part and unavailable thru GM network? So...don't know how involved they want to be with installation on a questionable, NOT GM OEM part. We'll see. A solid recommendation to a trusted garage they may know of would be enough for me to put it off till they can see me. BUT...I am also getting all the info together that I would need to do it myself. Old eyes, knees, etc will be time consuming factors for me, but mechanically I feel up to it. ONe question...are all the air bag connectors this yellow color you speak of? Is that the color assigned to them? If there are a bunch of connectors under the dash when I tear into it, I would prefer being guided by simple colors than trying to decipher these confusing B&W line drawn diagrams I am seeing online... Another question...does the Cadillac service manual that I cannot seem to find online (yet) have in-depth instructions for a procedure like this? I'm not talking about Hayne's or Chiltons...I mean the real deal...GM/Cadillac stuff. Thanks for your time! ...and... Merry Christmas! BTW, OldCadTech...I'm in Portland. Are you east or west wash.state? Your signature echoes my union's (Pipefitter's) motto: "Do it right the first time."
  10. So, digging a bit deeper into the process of removing the seat, and along with Bruce's warning to disengage the air bags, do I have to do all the under dash unconnecting all the front air bags OR can I just disconnect the BATTERY so there is no power distributed to all these items? A procedure I read started with removing the SIR fuse under the back seat, then proceded to have me go under the dash and disconnect the front and pass. air bags. Is this really necessary if the Battery is out of the loop? It warned that removing the battery and then working on the airbags was a potential for all kinds of problems...not sure why this would be an issue if put back correctly, but just looking for some validation to this warning. Also, since the back is fully reclined, will that keep me from getting to the bolts I have to loosen to remove the tracks? this is much more complicated than taking out the seats in my old '66 ford.... Procedure I read was from a site called JustAnswer. Seems they sell you the information specific to your prob. But past problems of other people are on the site to read, which is where I got the SIR information and the directions to disconnect the airbags under the dash. Does anyone have an opinion about JustANSwer site?
  11. Already tried that. Seems locked. It will be a problem laid back like it is till I get it at least looked at. There are no shortages of track and motor assemblies available online, so my question needing to be answered is whether the it is a simple R&R of the seat out of the car, then the track off of the seat and then reverse procedure. I am hesitant to attempt it if the seat upholstery has to be unstitched, or taken apart to put the new arms that support the back INTO the back. They must insert themselves a fair amount of way up the seatback, so I wonder what the anchoring/bolting details are like. I do not want to mess up the seat. It is like new.....just doesn't work...lol!
  12. BTW...Where is the airbag in my SEAT? Always assumed they were surrounding, not supporting me...
  13. Looking online, I see used tracks with motors that appear to be available at a decent price. It appears to also be the part that has the motor for the back section to recline. I would rather replace the mechanism rather than the whole seat at the risk of not matching the appearance of my original seat. Has anyone R & R'd the seat , and replaced this track/motor assembly? Bruce has mentioned the need to disable the airbags and paying attention to the seat belt tightening affair.
  14. So, you think the entire seat will have to be replaced? They won't be able to replace a mechanism or part?
  15. Oh no! Trouble in Paradise...(2002 Deville base) Returning my wife home from the hospital after a back procedure, the back of the passenger seat failed to return to it's upright position on command...all other power mechanisms for the seat work. I am assuming my wife didn't try to remove her weight from the seatback as she pressed the control and her body's weight stripped a gear or burnt a contact...or....? Any ideas? I have an appointment with a tech at the local GM/chev service on Monday following Christmas. (great time to have difficulties, huh?) I trust they will be able to diagnose it, but the question REALLY comes down to access to the parts necessary to fix...ARE they readily available from Cad/GM/Chev...or is it a search for a junked seat mechanism? Parts available ANYWHERE?