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Everything posted by OldCadTech

  1. The other thing I kept forgetting and was going to mention a long time ago before I got side-tracked on the E046 is that the emission test failure for NOX is more likely an EGR problem. Remove the egr valve and make sure the ports are clean and not restricted. The E046 and a restricted or plugged vacuum port could all be related as well. There are vacuum passages under the throttle body that are infamous for plugging also.... How's that for confusing the issue?
  2. You can get some vacuum hose and a "T" fitting and connect to 102 or, if the other ports above it are capped off remove the cap and install the vacuum gauge there. The gauge will fluctuate like the picture on the bottom row in the middle...
  3. That is a probability, but, due to the fact both of them indicated 0 cross counts, I'm thinking more likely a fuel injector problem or a vacuum leak. It could still be an O2 sensor but don't throw parts at it until you run out of money. If you have a vacuum gauge, install it and note whether the needle is steady or fluctuates, what is the reading at idle, how does the engine react if you snap the throttle, what is the reading and how does the needle react at a steady 2000 rpm? See the attachment...
  4. Good point, and definitely something to check for. This doesn't cause a parasitic draw. the cable corrosion causes resistance in the cable that prevents the battery from being fully charged, this lowers the battery's reserve capacity to a point where normal draw causes the battery to go dead. As an example, if the battery has a reserve capacity of 100, divide that by 4 = a max current draw of .25 or 250 milliamps. That same battery, now with a high resistance cable only has a reserve capacity of 50, divide that by 4 = a max draw of 12.5 or .125 amps or 125 milliamps. So a battery that could hold a charge for, lets say a week, now only lasts a couple of days.
  5. The one on the left under econ, it indicates the engine is running in closed loop. The flow chart wants to make sure the engine is running in closed loop before proceeding with the trouble tree. Basically, Open loop means the PCM is running on a block learn or a preset group of engine parameters and is ignoring the O2 sensors until they should be hot enough to operate correctly and the engine no longer needs a richer mixture, such as when the engine is cold. Closed loop is when the PCM is using the data from the O2 sensor to control fuel mixture. There are a LOT of variables such as block learn, long and short term fuel trim and integers. Way to much detail for a code like this. Please take note of the " Likely causes of an E046" in the FSM, you need to be certain that all these possible causes are RULED OUT before proceeding with the E046 trouble code flow chart. The FSM is assuming NONE of those conditions exist, otherwise the test is NOT valid.
  6. What was the status of the auto light on the A/C control panel? Cross counts are the number of times the sine wave signal ( in this case it is O2 sensor voltage ) crosses a base line voltage per second. The PCM uses this "count" to determine fuel/air mixture. For example a "lazy" or slow O2 sensor would not cross the base line a given number of times in that second. So, if the PCM wants to see the signal cross the base line 5 times a second and it is only crossing 2 times in a second, the PCM detects that as a problem. Looking at the flow chart it appears the PCM is looking for something above 3 for normal operation.
  7. Pulling the orifice will determine if it needs to be flushed anyway. Check it before you get another compressor...
  8. I love new tools, despite what women say YA CAN'T HAVE TOO MANY TOOLS
  9. Did you replace the orifice tube yet? If so, was it clean, somewhat plugged with debris or totally plugged?
  10. Some HARD to answer questions, and a lot of debate centers around the head gasket and head bolt issue. No vehicle, including Cadillac, is immune to head gasket problems. Any misuse or lack of maintenance can contribute to failures in any vehicle regardless of brand name or engine type. Statistically, there were some improvements in head gasket and head bolt design that improved the longevity, but those improvements still fall victim to poor maintenance. There are a LOT of HIGH mileage " virgin " N* engines out there still pounding the pavement. Dex-cool is an organic acid based coolant. Personally, I don't agree with the "recommended" change interval of Dex-cool. I feel that both "green" and Dex-cool should be changed at 30,000 miles, but I'm sure GM and a lot of other people don't care what I think. I suggest researching both types and forming your own opinion. They are an "awesome" engine. I have 2 and both average 25 mpg hwy and 20 local .
  11. Actually, what @barczy01 is saying is a pretty common practice. Two ounces was pretty close because it is hard to get an accurate measurement of the amount of oil removed from the system. What he is saying is to drain the new compressor and install only 2 ounces of oil in the new compressor. That way, if the system had a little too much oil in it the oil would then be close to the correct amount. Without having the R134 evacuation and charging station, that extracts the "freon" and separates the oil into a separate measured plastic container, both methods are a a lot more guesswork than precision measurement. I have done it the same way barczy01 has and it works fine. I've never had it be too little OR too much oil using either method. I simply prefer to measure the oil remaining in the old compressor and add that amount to the new compressor after draining the new compressor, especially if the A/C was NICE and cold before the compressor change. If it was okay but not very cold, then it probably had too much oil in it. Either oil "method" will work.... It's only a matter of preference.
  12. I can't see the brand name or the model number, and the numbers and settings are hard to read cuz I can't enlarge the pic enough. Post the make and model numbers and I'll look the manual up online and see if it will work. It looks like it should anyway.
  13. Is it auto-ranging? If it is, it should be fine.
  14. Looks like you're using it on 10A scale which is where it should be to start then switched to 2A scale when the reading is under 2 amps, it should be on 2m - (milii-amp scale) for the final reading. it's best to use a draw-switch but wait for approximately 10-15 minutes for the final readings.
  15. Pag-150 and Pag-46 are designators of oil viscosity. For example if I mix Mobil 1 10-30 and Mobil 1 10-40 do I need to flush the engine? Probably not. If you are more comfortable with a match, then ask Auto Zone if they have one with Pag-46, If it was mine. I would drain the oil from the new compressor and install the amount of Pag-46 to match what was taken out of the old compressor.
  16. I need to know how you are doing the parasitic load test. What scale are you using on the DVOM? Divide the reserve capacity of the battery by 4 to get the max allowed parasitic draw, for a battery that is in good health and fully charged.
  17. I'm not sure what path the mechanic was leading you down, but I think it went into the rabbit hole. Disconnect the drivers seat heater at the heating element connection. and let it power down completely. Sometimes simply doing the test "wakes" it up. A 2.2 amp draw is quite a bit. It is like leaving a light on. If the vehicle sat for a week and still started it didn't have a 2.2 amp draw. Are you sure you were powered down when you got that reading? RIM is Rear Integration Module, which controls a LOT of circuits. I'll do some research, but .56 amp draw is a lot closer to where you want to be than 2.2 amps .
  18. The memory seat module controls the heated seat ground too. Disconnect the heated seat connectors and retest for current draw with the seat module still connected. The mirrors and fuel door release may use the same ground circuit, not sure at this point without checking the circuit diagram.
  19. Found this https://www.carid.com/2005-cadillac-sts-performance-sway-bars/
  20. John, No link or pic Are you referring to a rear sway bar?
  21. It's called auto mechanics, we understand, cuz we've been there.
  22. @BodybyFisher No, the PCM monitors eng coolant temp. It will turn on the cooling fans and vary the speed of the fans accordingly. If it sees the coolant temp continue to rise it will command hi speed for both fans, if the coolant temp still continues to rise it will turn the engine temp light on and set the code. The PCM assumes the fans are running, there is no feed-back circuit.
  23. Thank You BBF I have appointments this am and office time but at first glance the PCM controls the fans and fan speed thru the relay grounds and a potentiometer in the PCM. I had a much different cooling fan diagram in mind. SO, the previous post, except for the fan tests themselves won't work. You will have to test at the relays. More on that later but check the red wire at the relay for power it should be HOT at all times, so you can check it with key off. Be sure to check the PCM BLUE and CLEAR connectors & the 50 amp cooling fan fuse first.
  24. That's right, forgot about that, sorry. You know I go to sleep & ........ It is a method to test the fans without scraping or burning your knuckles. The PCM commands the fans on with the A/C on... But since yours is out of refrigerant that won't work. Make sure that the relays are all connected. There are 3 relays mounted on the bottom of the core support. You can swap with a known good one. They are notorious for failing. To test the fan, you can run a (+) & (-) to the fan motor. You can get a connector from the junk yard or make up one yourself with some same gauge wire. OR you can remove the fans and test them, that is a PITA tho. To verify that the PCM is controlling the fan, you can try disconnecting the connector at the fan motor and connect a wire to the ground wire at each of the connectors, but you have to plug the connector back in because the PCM controls the ground for the cooling fan. So you will have a wire running from the connector up to where you can access it when the engine is hot. I don't recall if the cooling fan hot side was hot all the time with the key on but you can test that when you disconnect the connector. Run the engine at idle, when the coolant temp indicates 225 or higher and if the fan is not running, touch the test lead ( momentarily ) to a good ground. Did you check the PCM connectors? Makes me wonder a little about the PCM after the A/D code. Did you clear the codes and see if any codes came back? I think @BodybyFisher has a FSM for 96, so he may have a schematic...