OldCadTech

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Everything posted by OldCadTech

  1. Probably the most common is a defective blower module and then the blower motor itself. BUT, better to diagnose it and not throw parts at it.
  2. Is this the door "lock" signal wire? You may have to remove the door panel and connect directly to the wire at the actuator. @Cadillac Jim may be able to get a better location pinpoint and/or better circuit description from the FSM.
  3. OldCadTech

    robs

    Its asking you if you want to enter the PCM to look at the different parameters. If there is a code it will appear as P0300 for example. If you enter diagnostics and it goes directly to the PCM? there are no codes.
  4. OldCadTech

    i have a code on my 94eldarado PCM?

    Sorry, I'm not quite sure what the question is. PCM stands for Powertrain Control Module. What engine do you have? What is the code?
  5. First, check the trans fluid and make sure the TConverter fluid isn't mixed with the trans fluid. Second, I would check the main transmission harness & connector for pulled connectors or pinched wiring.
  6. Did you run the engine and observe the belt and pulley rotating? Could be the thermostat sticking or the bypass hose that goes to the coolant recovery/surge tank jar is restricted. The small hose that goes to the top of the coolant recovery jar can become restricted. When the engine is cool remove the recovery jar/radiator cap, smell the inside of the tank. Does it smell like exhaust? Make sure the coolant level with the engine cold, not running is about 2" below the bottom of the opening. Remove the 3/8" hose from the recovery jar and direct it towards the opening. Have someone start the engine and there should be full flow through the hose. If not you will need to remove the hose and remove the restriction. To fill the cooling system, be sure to use Dex-cool with a 50-50 solution of coolant and distilled water. You can use good, non-hard, drinkable water or use the premix solution. Could be something as simple as a defective recovery jar/surge tank cap not holding pressure. The cooling fans may not be coming on. If you don't find a "smoking gun" we'll have to get a lot more information on the symptoms
  7. Look at the rear of the front cylinder head and make sure the water pump drive belt is still good.
  8. Certainly sounds like the generator. It should maintain 13.6 or higher.
  9. You have the wiring to the starter to connect to.
  10. OldCadTech

    Battery revisited 2006 DTS

    The BCM is passenger side near the A pillar, slightly below and right of the glove box. I have done something similar with a Fluke 88 DVOM using the min max feature, but it is not a leave it on overnight kind of thing cuz the meter will auto - off. I have not used anything like what you have described though it sounds good in theory. I'm not sure how or what equipment would be needed to do that. Try to recall what happens the day before the vehicle would not start. Was it a lot of very short trips, long trips or was it a lot of accessory usage, such as defrost, a/c usage, blower motor running, night driving etc.. You will need a switch like the one above to do an accurate draw test though.
  11. OldCadTech

    Battery revisited 2006 DTS

    Probably a lucky guess... Did you have the charging system tested? If I recall, you had varying voltage during driving. Not uncommon for the generators to stop charging as KHE experienced.
  12. A little trick I use so the solder points don't end up in a clump is to stagger the solder joints a little, That way the wires fit back into the wire conduit a LOT better.
  13. OldCadTech

    Flasher relay

    @Will How did the switch replacement go? Did it work?
  14. OldCadTech

    Flasher relay

    We only did one that way, we had long wires and a 9V battery to light it off. Since it was my repair order, I got to light it off. which also meant if anything went wrong I got the blame too. We had a test track on the dealership lot which covered almost the whole city block. So we had lots of space.
  15. OldCadTech

    Flasher relay

    Me too. I don't recall what year it was but Cadillac recalled a bunch of air bags because they would deploy while driving with no crash or SDM activation. We installed replacement modules and we were directed to deploy the air bags, which consisted of a box that supplied a voltage to the connector and the air bag pointed to the sky would deploy. OF COURSE if you must know, an air bag used as a launching device will achieve a height of about 40-50 feet. That was roughly calculated by it exceeding the height of the nearest 3 story building by quite a bit.
  16. OldCadTech

    Flasher relay

    I should have been more clear. I mainly meant damaged connectors at the BCM from pulled wiring. The air bag deployment is a tremendous force, they purposely are directed at the windshield and create a lot of down force on that dash carrier assembly. You're correct the BCM is protected in the corner but also it sounded like that area was torn into during the accident.
  17. @KHE That was me. I pulled them out the top. The trouble is access to the lower brackets and exhaust etc.. requires some swivel sockets and access without a hoist would be a problem, not impossible but problematic. If you want to PM me I can give you my contact # easier to explain over the phone.
  18. OldCadTech

    Flasher relay

    I'm thinking, passenger side wiring damage at the A-pillar kick panel or damaged BCM. The bulkhead connector / pass-thru probably got pulled pretty hard. Body shop may have missed reconnecting a ground wire either the one that Logan referenced or the passenger side wiring harness to the rear.
  19. OldCadTech

    Flasher relay

    Wow! I really hope the multifunction switch is the problem. Again, how did you verify the switch was bad? Throwing parts at a problem until it is fixed or you run out of money is not diagnosis. On a vehicle that has had major damage and deployed the air bags, the multi-function switch would be at best a 40% chance of being defective IMO. The drivers air bag could possibly have damaged the column enough, or excessive driver contact during the accident, so I might give it a 50% chance. The DRL's should go out in park with the parking brake set. I wish you luck...
  20. Yes we did, thank you Kudos to @rockfangd he was definitely on track, good call.
  21. @rhdsts You shouldn't feel bad at all, and you didn't waste anyones time. Thursdays are a late night for me, so a little delay in getting back to you. To me it looks a lot like rodent damage. Do you have rodents in Australia? You know the small ones, not the ones with the big feet.. JK You did good, congratulations, fine job! I love a happy ending. Those connectors are easy to find, at least they are here anyway. There is a special tool to get the wire out of the connector and another special crimp tool as well. Not very expensive tools.
  22. OldCadTech

    Mailbag: rebuild windshield washer

    Looks like an aftermarket repair kit is only option. AutoZone, Parts Geek, CarID
  23. I was on the way to bed, then I thought - be sure to test the switch when the booster is fully charged or pressurized first, it should be an open circuit. Again, make the tests with the connectors disconnected. Okay, I'm going....