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Everything posted by OldCadTech

  1. I have a 98 STS that needs the sockets as Logan stated, I prolonged the agony and bought a little time with dielectric grease because parts are so hard to come by where I live at the end of the world. BUT, they should be replaced
  2. I was referring to my 98 Seville, it is an electrically operated solenoid, relay and fuse controlled by the RIM. So, where did the vacuum hose go to?
  3. If you have a vacuum actuated release you can disregard my last post. In that post i was thinking the 97 Deville had the electric release setup like the 98. The most common problem in the vacuum system release is the shift selector vacuum switch which was usually located on the steering column. Follow the hose that is attached to the vacuum servo at the p-brake assembly, it should go to a vacuum switch mounted on the column or wherever. The ports in the switches don't always align properly preventing the vacuum servo from getting vacuum. I haven't had a 97 column down but the components should be the same. They may have even used the ignition switch on the column to supply power to a vacuum switch when the vehicle is shifted out of park, but there has to be some kind of a vacuum switch at the other end of that hose.
  4. If it is easier you can connect the vacuum gauge to that hose inside the car and reach over and start the engine. That way you can monitor the vacuum gauge as you start the engine. Some easy to understand interpretations of vacuum gauge readings; Normal This a normal reading—between 17 and 22 inches of mercury. Keep in mind, this reading is ideal for stock-cammed engines running at sea level. Higher elevations may cause slightly lower readings. For every 1,000 feet above sea level, you can expect the reading to be about one inch lower. You can also expect the readings to be lower for more aggressive cams. Steady Low/Extremely Low The gauge at left shows an extremely low reading, which holds fairly steady. This means the engine is producing less power and, therefore, less vacuum. Common causes of steady low reading are blowby due to worn piston rings or possibly late ignition or valve timing. An extremely low reading could also indicate an air leak at the intake manifold or throttle body. Steady Low/High Swing A regular swing between high and low readings often means a blown head gasket between two, side-by-side cylinders. To confirm, you’ll need to perform a compression test. Rapid Vibration at Idle If the needle vibrates rapidly between 14 and 20 inches of mercury, but then steadies as rpm increases, you may be dealing with worn valve guides. How fast the needle vibrates is telling of how many valve guides may be worn. Fluctuation Under Acceleration Conversely, if the gauge’s needle swings back and forth as the engine accelerates, your valve springs are probably too week for your engine. The swing on the gauge is usually anywhere from 10 to 22 inches of mercury, depending on the speed of the engine. Drastic Needle Drop With exhaust restriction, the vacuum gauge will often start in the normal range but will soon drop drastically as rpm is increased. You likely have a restriction somewhere within your exhaust system or a damage exhaust component. Abnormally High Reading Conversely, a choked or restricted air cleaner would result in a higher than normal reading, depending on how hard the engine works to pull in air. Normal/Low Pattern When the needle drops to a low reading, returns to normal, and then repeats the pattern at regular intervals, you’re likely looking at a burnt, sticking, or leaking valve. Often, a sticking valve will cause more sporadic drops during this pattern. (image from pakwheels.com) 4 or 5-Inch Fluctuation If you notice the needle slowly fluctuating between four or five inches, chances are you have an ignition-related issue. Check your spark plug gap as this condition often indicates too narrow of a gap. Also, check your distributor cap and wires. If none of these areas are the culprit, you may need to adjust your idle mixture. (courtesy of Holley Performance) 8 to 14-Inch Reading A steady low reading between eight and 14 inches of mercury is usually indicative of incorrect valve timing.
  5. Great, follow that hose back into the engine compartment and make sure it is not damaged, brittle, squishy or disconnected, It should connect to the throttle body.
  6. Look on the A.I.R. management valve bracket it may be mounted on that down low. I'll do some research, It may be mounted under the glove box, it's been a long time.
  7. It should be very similar if not exact.
  8. Make sure that the Manifold Absolute Pressure ( MAP ) sensor is plugged in and has a good source of vacuum. The MAP sensor is located on the right ( passenger ) side cylinder valve cover or on the firewall above the distributor I can't remember where. The picture is looking at the bottom, the top is flat. Notice there is a 3-wire connector and a vacuum hose connector...
  9. Sounds to me that the cat is plugged and there is not enough engine vacuum. If you have a vacuum gauge, install it and check the vacuum when it is running.
  10. Is it a vacuum servo or a solenoid?
  11. The diagnosis for the P-brake release requires a scan tool to command the release solenoid on/off. Can your scan tool do that? The FSM checks for power/amperage through the fuse, the relay, the solenoid and the RIM. There are also visual checks for corrosion at the fuse and relay.
  12. The spark plugs are easy, even easier with a double swivel spark plug socket by Snap-on, Mac, Matco, Craftsman, Mickey Mouse etc..
  13. The button should come with the Distributor cap and/or the coil.
  14. There Must have been some serious arcing going on inside the cap. Replace the cap, rotor & coil.
  15. The button is gone! Burnt off or in the distributor someplace. Ohm test the coil, replace the button and you should be ready to drive. After looking at the coil again replace it regardless if it is good or not. There should have been a rubber washer too.
  16. The wheel tubs are kind of a PITA to take out. When I was at the dealership we NEVER bent anything but we did have a saying, "calibrate for clearance & adjust for accessibility". Depending upon how much the A/C line is blocking the bolt, they can usually be "calibrated". If the line is blocking TOO much to be calibrated, it might be easier to have the refrigerant removed, disconnect the line from the A/C compressor, repair the oil filter adapter leak, then have the A/C recharged when you're all done and have verified that the leak is fixed. The engine will run and the A/C compressor will not be harmed. The electronics will keep the compressor safe.
  17. Could be wrong but I think it is accessed from below. Although the wheel well access sounds good. Do you have the wheel tub removed? What are the "road blocks" you are experiencing? Are you positive the adapter seals are leaking and not the pressure switch? 1) Remove the left engine mount bracket 2) Disconnect the engine oil cooler lines from the adapter, if equipped. 3) Disconnect the electrical connector from the engine oil pressure switch. Remove the oil filter. Someone may have a more detailed step by step or more experience with the rear wheel drive STS.
  18. Please explain Are you trying to access it from above? Is something in the way?
  19. Since it is VERY difficult to try to diagnose a noise long distance, try to post a cell phone video with audio or take it to a repair shop and have them listen to it.
  20. I have had a lot of ignition modules go bad. The button on the coils burn AND the coils are also prone to failure. The FSM will guide you through the ohm checks. The FSM will be worth its weight in gold.
  21. Starting fluid is mostly ether, heptane and propane. Brake and carb cleaners are usually a mix of toulene, methanol, acetone and MEK. Starting fluid is much more volatile but it will vaporize better in colder weather. My opinion is starting fluids can pre-ignite easily and have a tendency to "pool" easily. WD and brake cleaners, carb cleaners are slower burning. I personally don't like that heavy "knock" sound when using starting fluids. But you know what they say about opinions.....
  22. Use the WD or brake clean first, starting fluid only as a last resort. Starting fluid can cause problems. Hmmm, any possibility you have bad fuel? That's about the time the problem started. Is that correct? Talk to the gas station and ask if they have had any other people complain. If the engine runs on the WD or brake clean, pull the fuel filter and see if it is restricted.
  23. There are several things to check. 2) It was not uncommon for the fuel gauge to be inaccurate. If the fuel gauge indicates 1/2 to 1/4 put about 5 gals of fuel in it and try starting it. The baffles would also break loose in the fuel tank and cause the fuel gauge float to stick. 3) With the inlet removed from the throttle body, have someone crank the engine while you spray a shot of brake clean or WD-40 into the throttle body. If it starts on the brake clean or WD, the fuel pump would be at the top of the list to check. If it runs, It will also eliminate PCM and ignition problems. 1) Since I know you have a FSM, follow the diagnostic tree for cranks will not start. Yea I know its out of sequence but do the EASY stuff first. But nothing wrong with starting here.