OldCadTech

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Everything posted by OldCadTech

  1. The A & D notes are at the RT front. The C note is at LT front. The F note is by the battery IIRC they were the "train sound" 4 note 120db system, or maybe I'm remembering the older vintage "eighties" version.
  2. Makes ya wanna get a rope!
  3. The sending units are a little infamous and very expensive so most people track mileage also. The unit/module is easy to replace if your 99 has the access in the trunk, otherwise the tank has to come down, then they're not so easy. Sometimes, the baffle in the tank breaks loose and interferes with the float operation. If the baffle is loose, the fuel tank will need to be replaced. With the fuel module out of the tank grab the plastic baffle and if you can move it, the tank will need replacing. You can "test" to determine if the baffle is loose by hitting the bottom of the fuel tank in several different places with the heel of your hand. If you hear a rattle type noise the baffle is probably loose. Do this at about the 200 mile mark from a full tank otherwise there will be too much fuel in the tank. This test is only about 80% accurate so don't buy the tank until you verify it physically first.
  4. The frayed wire is the starter cable, you should tape it with electrical tape and put it back in the conduit, or replace it. The P0404 is most likely the stall. If the EGR valve is open or partially open when it is trying to idle it will run extremely rough and/or stall. But the ignition module and crank sensors can cause the symptoms also. Diagnosis should always start at the lowest numbered code. The spark plug wires look original and are due for replacement on mileage alone, if original, the spark plugs are also due for replacement. I would clear all the codes, replace the spark plug wires and spark plugs and see what codes return.
  5. First we need to find out if there are any codes. Hold the off & warmer buttons down on the climate control panel until the WOW display illuminates then the display will have ALL CODES? push the warmer (yes) write down all the codes and post them here. It may be easier to video the display with a cell phone because they go by pretty fast.
  6. Absolutely will not hurt to flush the transmission. If the debris is rag material and it is in the valve body, only way to remove the debris will be to take the valve body down and clean the valves
  7. Thanks @barczy01 ! Sorry @jcmorse563, That's why I wanted to wait.... Now we both know...
  8. Probably loose belts or worn belts. When it runs for a while they heat up and expand and the noise goes away. I would put new belts on and see how it sounds before blaming any components.
  9. It is a pretty easy job. Great time to clean the throttle body while you're in the "mood".
  10. The basic engine is the same. The ignition system is different so the valve covers would need to be swapped and the EGR and coolant crossover. Wait for @barczy01 to chime in, he does this stuff for a living.
  11. Those are both battery disconnect codes, disregard them.
  12. That is the PCM but you still need to get it out of the way. I was thinking the cover opened from passenger side to drivers side but it opens from front to back. Move the harness and you should be able to open the lid.
  13. Not without a memory refresher. I've slept since then.... Got Pics? I'm thinking it snaps in place or there was one screw holding it in but I'm not positive...
  14. Since you have the PC1644, I would physically check circuit 464 tan wire with a black tracer from the PCM to the EBTCM at PCM connector terminal #27 & EBTCM connector terminal #34. Check it for continuity if you have a DVOM and make sure the terminal is not loose in the connector and it is clean, corrosion free. Use dielectric grease on that terminal when reconnecting the PCM & EBTCM.
  15. I'll do a little research on the circuits and see if anything jumps out at me tomorrow.
  16. PC1644 - Delivered torque output circuit - history. When you get a chance do the battery disconnect I described above and let me know if anything reacts differently.
  17. Are there any other codes? Specifically, any U codes? List ALL the codes, no matter how unrelated they seem. The Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) simultaneously control the traction control. The EBCM sends a Requested Torque message via a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to the PCM. The signal should be at 90 percent when traction control is not active and at lower values during traction control activations. If the "DELIVERED TORQUE" input is lost the EBTCM will set DTC 73. The PCM monitors the serial data line to see if the traction control has been disabled by the EBTCM. If it has, the PCM will not set DTC P1571. If the "REQUESTED TORQUE" input is lost, the PCM monitors the serial data line to See if the traction control has been disabled by the EBTCM. If not, the PCM sets DTC P1571 and communicates this to the EBTCM, via serial data. The EBTCM will then Set DTC 73. DTC 73 may set if either the "REQUESTED TORQUE" or "DELIVERED TORQUE" circuits are shorted to ground, shorted to voltage or open. DTC 73 may also be set if the ignition switch is improperly parked between "OFF" and "RUN," or if the Rear Console Blower Motor Control Slide Lever is left in the "ON" position prior to turning the ignition from "RUN" to "OFF." If either of these conditions set DTC 73 then replace the EBTCM. Since this is a serial data line communication, I would disconnect both battery terminals and touch the disconnected cable ends together to clear all the modules. It may or may not correct the problem but what you should look for is a change in how the EBTCM reacts. If it goes back to the intermittent coming on and going off it would be a serial data line comm problem, which can get scary expensive to diagnose. If there is no change in how the traction light responds I would replace the EBTCM, mainly because it is one of the "BUG-INFECTED" ones. The diagnostics for the '96 Eldo EBTCM required a pin-out box and the Tech1, so you are not going to be able to perform any meaningful circuit continuity or resistance checks without them. That pretty much limits diagnosis to visual wiring checks and connector faults such as loose pin contacts, broken or partially broken wiring at pin connectors. CAUTION: DO NOT probe/puncture module wiring insulation with test light leads or DVOM leads.
  18. The short answer is "no" it would not be worthwhile. Unless you spend $800-$1000 for a Tech2 you will only be able to read the generic OBD2 codes. You will not be able to communicate with the other modules.
  19. No, I worked at a dealership. Sorry, it was a little bit of work lingo. I worked what they called heavy line / A/C which is engine and running gear and air conditioning repair. I'm not sure it is still available but GM had a product called "top engine cleaner" which we used to clean carbon from the engine and I have used it to fix vehicles with your symptoms. It is a lot cheaper and easier than disassembly of the engine. It is easy to use, BUT some people would get worried for their engine if they were watching and/or listening. Check you-tube, maybe someone has posted a video. I will say, for it to be effective make sure the engine is at operating temp and let it set for the recommended time ( 15 mins I think )... then rev it up like you stole it, but do not exceed rpm limits, use quick throttle snaps do not hold the engine at high idles. I've used the top engine cleaner more times than I can count and NEVER had a flare up. If it's used correctly you should be fine. I still don't remember any concerns with the Olds engine either. I'm thinking he was giving a personal opinion.
  20. Yes, they are permanently deleted, BUT if the problem still exists they may reset immediately or if the ignition key is cycled. The battery disconnect and touching the disconnected terminals together, clears all codes, resets all modules and drains any capacitors or keep alive memory. It is a "fast" way to make sure everything is "powered down", or the alternative, "long" way, is to wait a minimum of 30 minutes, and then reconnect the battery. When time is money, no tech wants to wait 30 minutes for a module to power down. No, a code reader or even the older Driver Information Center or DIC, can only detect current codes or history codes that have not met the ignition cycle count needed to clear automatically. So.. when you start the vehicle If a previous fault did not reoccur and the auto clear is set at 30 ignition cycles ( an ignition cycle is much more than simply turning the key off and back on - ( that is an ignition key cycle )) it does not clear but it gets "marked" as a history code.
  21. This is a key fob..... AlsoKnownAs --- Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Takes a CR2032 battery - By The Way - Easy Peasy to change
  22. Bill, Hard to say, but if you were running it hard to ... You may have loosened a chunk of carbon and it got stuck in the valve port and is keeping the valve from closing. I would do top engine cleaner and hopefully it will dissolve it. You can rent a bore scope and look into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, prior to doing the top engine clean. I'm almost positive 87 RWD Brougham had the 305 engine, so I'm not sure the tech had all his ducks in a row when he made that statement. I was working on the line in 87 and I don't recall a lot of problems with the RWD Broughams at all..