OldCadTech
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Everything posted by OldCadTech
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LOL I like your pic lots better IF I could have gotten ALL the pretty pictures on it would have been MORE appealing and explanatory. That is the case halves & oil pan in first photo, the second photo is the windage tray and the oil manifold. BUT now, I noticed, your picture has all that too... The therapy is WORKING -
I got maxed out on pic upload size, and I'm NOT paying photobuket a dime,,,,, Be sure to check the crank bearings, or simply plan on replacing them. I haven't taken one apart with "mileage" that didn't need new crank bearings. Cylinder Bore Taper - 0.100mm Max Cylinder Bore Out of round - 0.100mm Max Piston Clearance @ 41mm below Deck Face - 0.020-0.051mm
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Here are some pics, most of these are from a 99 Deville. Yours may be a little different but the basics are the same.
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In my opinion, you are better off rebuilding the one you have, so keep doing what you're doing. At least that way you know what's been done and if you trust the person working on the engine then you know or trust it was done correctly. Case halves IMO would be a must do. You may not need a vacation but maybe a therapy session would help I can get some cylinder specs together tonight
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Yes it is, basically grinding, only with a compound not with a stone. Do not do ANYTHING to new valves.
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Nothing like a new set of heads for an engine overhaul, and yes, that is a VERY good deal that @BodybyFisher arranged, BUT - I looked at those pics again and again. I still don't see anything wrong with those valves, Those intake seats look almost perfect from what I see, BUT I cant see the guides either. The Intake valve stem to guide clearance is 0.11mm ( Klepsteel to Klepsteelgeleider ) The Exhaust valve stem to guide clearance is 0.12mm ( Klepsteel to Klepsteelgeleider ) Measured at the top of the valve. The last 10mm at the bottom of the guide can be beyond limits and not affect normal valve operation. Yes, you are correct, the intake and exhaust valves are different sizes and thicknesses. The valve seat contact area (Klepzitting ) in the head is - 0.5mm minimum anything over that is good. Intake valve seat width is 0.450-0.850mm - measured at the valve face Exhaust valve seat width is 0.700-1.100mm - measured at the valve face If they are not within specs - you can hand lap the valves in being careful not to groove them. Look at the valve seat in the head, and the valve itself, if any of them have excessive burnt areas or obvious deformation buy the new heads.
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Are the valves bent? If they're bent they need to be replaced, If you're talking about the deposits on them, that's normal, clean the heads as @BodybyFisher suggested above.
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Timing Chain Replaced - Special Warranty
OldCadTech replied to AUSTINCTS1's topic in General Cadillac Forums
That is so cool. I'm sure @Logan will appreciate the shout. -
It could have insufficient pressure and exhibit the same symptoms. Sometimes the auto parts stores will have a pressure tester you can rent. I think you have to leave your first born and your wallet with them though
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@Dhen7181 do you know how to check for fuel pressure?
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Sometimes we can't see the forest for the trees. Nice out of the box suggestion
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LOL, GOOD THOUGHT !!!
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When it is running does it backfire or pop through the intake or exhaust?
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Definitely worth a try to do the reset as @BodybyFisher suggested. Disconnect both battery cables from the battery and touch the cable ends together to drain any residual voltage then reconnect.
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Yes that is one of the things that warrants a idle relearn but I don't think it will help because it will not stay running long enough for a test drive if I'm reading the post correctly.
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How many miles are on the engine? Has it had any major engine work? Any unusual engine noises? First, if you have a code reader, check for other codes and post all of them here. Possible causes: Mechanical timing fault (stretched timing chain or worn/damaged timing chain tensioner) Blocked oil passage Low oil level Faulty Intake ('A') Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Faulty Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor I'm thinking the timing chain follower/tensioner is probably worn. If there are no other codes, remove the front cover and check the chain. and timing mark positions with number 1 cylinder at top dead center.
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HaHa, sounds like my hours... Night ...
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Definitely not hearse or limo.. If you don't have blisters on your typing finger, keep searching Reman is what I would buy if it was me.
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I would do the Ac Delco or Cardone of those choices. Check out some other online sites and compare prices and shipping
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The refurbished or remanufactured units are the ones that people trade in. They completely disassemble them, throw away what they can't re-use and replace seals etc to make them "like new" again and they are considerably less money than new. Rebuilding one takes special tools and is best left to the companies that do it for a living. If you had to buy the replacement parts individually it would cost you more to rebuild one than to buy one new. They buy their parts in bulk and can do it for less.
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By the way, you do know not to let that steering wheel turn while the engine and steering rack is out of the vehicle - right? Damages the air bag clock spring in the column....
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It's called a pinion input shaft seal. Maybe it is the picture quality but the shaft seal area and the bearing contact surface on the shaft looks very worn, so I doubt if a new seal would reseal that shaft anyway. When you see a new rack assembly for less than reman units they are usually knock-offs and are of poor quality. People don't sell GM "NEW" racks for less than reman. https://www.carid.com/2002-cadillac-deville-steering-parts/a1-cardone-hydraulic-rack-and-pinion-assembly-35547405.html
