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OldCadTech

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Everything posted by OldCadTech

  1. It's called a pinion input shaft seal. Maybe it is the picture quality but the shaft seal area and the bearing contact surface on the shaft looks very worn, so I doubt if a new seal would reseal that shaft anyway. When you see a new rack assembly for less than reman units they are usually knock-offs and are of poor quality. People don't sell GM "NEW" racks for less than reman. https://www.carid.com/2002-cadillac-deville-steering-parts/a1-cardone-hydraulic-rack-and-pinion-assembly-35547405.html
  2. Exactly --> or depending on cost + shipping..... You MIGHT be able to find an o-ring BUT, with the rack out like that it's not going to be worth the hassle, especially if it leaks someplace else after you get it back in the car. You can get some reman units pretty reasonable but your parts situation isn't normal either. If the rack has been operated with low fluid or dirty fluid it will fail soon anyway, my opinion is replace it now. Measure the old rack length and set the new one up as close to that same side to side length as you can. Be sure the rack is centered when you measure though. after the engine is back in the vehicle be sure to purge all the air out of the rack. To do this - have both front wheels off the ground, ENGINE OFF, fill the reservoir to the normal operating level, turn steering wheel slowly from lock to lock position 3 - 5 times watch the level in the reservoir and keep it "full", when bubbles stop, top off the reservoir again and start the engine. The fluid level in the reservoir will drop so top it off and repeat the lock to lock step above with the engine running.
  3. That IS the steering rack, A REAL PITA to change in the car but not on the floor like that picture shows. Get a rebuilt unit, NOT worth messing with the seals, even if they were available, which I doubt....
  4. I should move to Amsterdam and open a FOREIGN auto repair shop....Sounds like mechanics are easy to find, automotive technicians are very scarce there. Good luck !
  5. The Block IS aluminum.... May I suggest another mechanix No Heli-coils - they pull, then HG leaks again.
  6. He will wish he NEVER tried taking the rear head off in the car. Do Not stand too close to him when he tries it. I wouldn't even attempt it. Front head MAYBE rear head definitely NOT.... You at least need a hammer, vise grips, pliers, and 2 screwdrivers, and at least one adjustable wrench that must be awake before using
  7. It doesn't really matter as long as the block is good b-cuz you will be "overhauling" it anyway. It's nice to start with an engine that has fewer miles on it. The main thing is, you can work on the rebuild while the other engine is still in the vehicle and it is not tying up your mechanics rack. Offer them $300 for the engine. The Netherlands visit is on the bucket list along with Sweden, Norway and Switzerland but since there doesn't appear to be a vacation, let alone a "working" vacation in the foreseeable future, I think I'm going to miss the rebuild. Hmmm, was that an all expense paid trip with room and board? Yep, bad HG. You did the correct test As Logan mentioned it doesn't have to be a direct replacement, so shop around and see if you can find a "donor". If the "donor" engine runs make sure it is not gushing oil and that there are no abnormal noises. Do a compression test on all cylinders, for accurate results take all the spark plugs out and disable the fuel pump, injectors and coil packs. Write the results down for each cylinder, if one or two cylinders have low readings, put about a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder(s) and retest. You are looking for uniformity in the readings not necessarily high readings. There should be no more than 15 psi difference or 103 kPa? Lets see, travel = 2 days, 3-4 day rebuild, 1 day swap...... OH Darn! NVM, wouldn't have my tools
  8. Okay, color me "diehard", I read the whole thing. If my math is close you have about 160,000 miles on the vehicle. IF, it was my Cadillac, I would remove the engine, remove the heads, throw away all the head bolts & install Time-serts in the block. There is a kit for doing that ( @Logan ) has the expertise with Time-serts, wait for him to chime in. Replace the head gaskets, intake and plenum gaskets, radiator/surge tank cap, water pump, all the water pump crossover gaskets, thermostat, coolant hoses, heater hoses, remove the radiator and have it cleaned or replaced if needed, timing chains and chain followers, oil pump, rear main seal AND reseal the case halves. While I had the case halves off I would check the main and rod bearings and replace as necessary. Once I had it put back together I would drive it like I stole it and put it in my will for the grand-kids to drive when they got old enough. ALL the above is IF I was planning on keeping the vehicle for a LONG time. If it is time for the divorce, give her the used engine and hope she doesn't want child support. IF I was you, I would be tempted to buy the low mileage ( 100000 km = about 60000 miles ) engine and rebuild it as described above. then it would only be an engine swap for your mechanic to do. Limiting the long term parking in his garage and making him happier. @barczy01 is doing these repairs for a living, so he may have some tips, tricks, resources and invaluable advise as well. All this is assuming you have VERIFIED exhaust gases in the cooling system. You stated he told you Co2 which is carbon dioxide. I took this as a typo and that he really meant CO or Carbon Monoxide. Correct me if I'm wrong. There are a LOT of things that can make an engine overheat BUT if you have exhaust in the coolant it is time for the heart transplant.
  9. What do you NOT have connected? I was dealing with RL work stuff, almost missed your post
  10. Is the alarm wiring connected with scotch locks, soldered or butt connectors? COMPLETELY disconnect the alarm power and ground circuits and reconnect the start wire (yellow I believe) then install the leds. BTW remove the resistor also. Do you still have the factory RKE fobs or is the alarm system replacing the keyless entry as well?
  11. That is NOT a normal alarm system install. What is the reserve capacity of the vehicle battery? Did you ever get a chance to read the PM, if not plz do...
  12. Okay, you got way ahead of me. I was wrong about the max parasitic draw value. I remembered it as the cold cranking amps divided by 4 BUT it is the reserve capacity of the battery divided by 4. You will need to check the battery reserve capacity ( in minutes ) divide that number by 4, that will be your max draw in mA. As an example if your battery has a reserve capacity of 150 minutes the max parasitic draw will be 37.5mA or 0.0375 Sorry for the BAD info
  13. Need to know for sure. Makes a BIG difference, take a pic of your meter for me...
  14. Where did you get that number from? That would be great, the lower the better, if that is in the service manual we'll go with that.
  15. You're welcome Are the fuses still out? IF you are still at 130mA, 130mA is acceptable, actually pretty good. If you are over 130mA don't go any farther let me know.. Start putting fuses back in BUT 1 at a time, start with the interior lamps fuse but wait until the system goes back to sleep and write down the draw so you have a record to go back to. STOP at the fuse that your module sleep state draw is over 200mA. don't go any farther, let me know... I sent you a PM, get back to me on that too plz.
  16. Okay, 1000mA = 1amp ---- 0.13a = 130mA ---- 0.03 = 30mA Where are you getting your amperage readings from? The battery or someplace else?
  17. What fuses are still in? What scale are you on that you converted 0.03 to 1000A? Or are you saying 1000mA? When you heard the relay clicking were there any LEDs flashing? I've re-read this post from start to last post and the topic that keeps coming back is the security system and the interior lamp circuit. I've installed enough security systems to know that they almost always use an interior lamp circuit and most people (including me) use the drivers footwell lamp for that signal to the alarm. I think you installed an LED bulb and strip. I'm not ruling out the security system yet... Your problems started if I remember correctly (without going back again) after the hydraulics were added AND you had the security system installed. That was the magical moment, is that correct? How is the hydraulic system activated? Is the pump mounted in the car also? Electrically powered momentary switches? Is the controller a console on the end of a cable or is it center console or dash mounted? I'm not entirely familiar with the system but I have a general knowledge of how hydraulics work. One of the fuses you pulled that made a lot of reduction in the amp draw was CCR - this is the Computer Command Ride, Is it safe to assume this went away when the hydraulics were added? How was this system disabled? You had an 8.8 amp draw when you "triggered" the BCM, that is HUGE ! How many batteries are mounted in the vehicle? I have a LOT of questions I know, but any vehicle and especially Cadillac is an array of separate systems interwoven in a complete package. If you modify one system it affects other systems. When you modify numerous systems or remove systems entirely then you have "created" something entirely different and the normal "text book" diagnostics no longer apply.
  18. This should be in the owners manual. If you don't have the manual, they are pretty cheap on EBAY. The fuse placements are in the owners manual as well. I don't recall the RWD Fleetwood having a fuse/relay center in the trunk BUT there are some Fleetwood owners on Caddyinfo that could answer that.
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