Pontiacivan

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About Pontiacivan

  • Rank
    Observer (3-9 posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    GXP 2005
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. Rear disc breaks are usually adjusted by pumping the emergency/parking brake. They will self adjust to a certain point but the lever on the back of the caliper will ratchet out the piston when the pads wear past a certain point. It is relatively unlikey that a system with so much time and testing like ABS is causing the rear brakes to stop working unless they are stuck to begin with or there are problems with the wheel sensors ( possible poor quality aftermarket bearing replacement.) Also, if you never engage the emergency/parking brake, don't start today, it will like lock up the caliper. Have a mechanic or yourself ( if capable ) ensure that the lever will move and return by manually rotating it. You will likely need channel locks or vise grips to overcome the return spring pressure. If it doesn't spring back, you need a caliper.
  2. I know this is and old thread ( just realized I heave been replying to many older threads in my enthusiasm as a new member) but just in case anyone is serious about doing this in the future. As long as you know what engine your cams came from, and assuming they are correct for your heads, ( bucket lifters vs roller followers ) Madtuner.com will program your PCM with the factory fuel/ air map leaving everything else alone. They will even do a performance tune for said engine.The caveat is: the dealer will likely not knowingly do the cam install ( most won't let your provide your own parts ) , most mechanics will likely not do the cam install (unless you provide your own and " forget " to mention it. Make sure you bring the correct timing gears as well, yours may not be right for the cams ) and NEVER, EVER have the PCM reflashed by the dealer for any updates. It may also be illegal, depending on your state laws.
  3. Interestingly enough, this is one time I disagree with the personal responsibility philosophy. Brakes are kind of important and a rusted line rarely gives warning before it blows. It would make more sense for manufacturers to move the lines to a protected location or develop a superior rust resistant brake line. We have to consider more than just the average car owner, do we really expect the edelry to get down and wash the underside of their cars? Should they have to pay someone if they can't physically do it? Should this be a required question for new drivers on their written test for liscense? I accept the personal responsibility philosophy for many things but believe there is a definite expectation that a part so critical to the safe function of the vehicle be expected to withstand the elements. Pads and rotors wear, salt has very little impact on them,but a tube that carries hydraulic pressure shouldn't require periodic maintenance. What's next, personally inspecting the cables and safety locks in an elevator before you get on? Just my two cents.
  4. if you have the factory amp in your trunk, the good news is that there is and auxiliary input, typically brn/wht (left in ), dk grn/wht ( right in ) , blk/white ( common ground ) wrapped in a shield intended for XM/ CD changer/ digital radio. That are all the same set of wires. The bad news is that each of these devices has data lines to tell the head unit when you have them so that the option appears on the source display of the head. I have not figured out a way to add a data signal for an aftermarket device. Currently, I have an XM unit in my car, but I do not subscribe. I snipped the audio wires going to it ( ONLY the audio ) but left it plugged in, and connected a 1/8" jack to it. When I want to use my iPod, I select XM as my source and turn on my music. My vehicle is an 05 Bonneville GXP with Monsoon but yours should be similar due to your year and GMs excellent habit of maintaining continuity with wiring colors. Hope this helps. You could also buy an inexpensive 1/8" male to stereo rca adapter and simply see what happens if you hook up that way and put your car in gear. An accurate schematic might even provide you with the correct switch to bypass to keep the audio live when you are in gear, but that would have to be your personal descision since there may be a legal reason GM had to do this. Hope this helps
  5. If your reverse lights are stuck on and your mechanic has ruled out the range selector on the transmission and any mechanical reason, unplug your Onstar equipped mirror and see if they go out. The Onstar system receives a signal from the reverse lights to let the support person know if you are in reverse. I have seen the mirrors short out and back feed voltage to the lights. It doesn't matter if you subscribe to Onstar or not, this is an electrical issue.I can confirm this for 05-07 GM models with Onstar. Possibly other years, but I haven't physically seen this, so I can't say for sure. Swapping mirrors is the easiest fix.
  6. My experience is that each seat will have a separate module. Ideally the factory plugs should be in the harness, possibly hidden by that annoying sticky black tape, but I can't swear to it on a 2000.
  7. There are definitely better aftermarket subs. What you need to look for, though, is " dual coil " since the factory sub recieved both left and right signal from the head. This is not the best way to do a sub, but it's what you got. Sorry I can't tell you what the size is, had one but gave it away. I sincerely think it was a 10" though. An 8" is pretty small and a 12" seems to large for the rear deck, I think I would have remembered either of those sizes. You could get a rough idea by measuring the grill or taking a peek inside the trunk to see if you can drop it to measure.
  8. You can use a device called a " floating ground " to line level converter. Virtually any car audio supplier can provide you with one for cheap. The good ones have level controls to fine tune the output so you don't overdrive your amp.The floating ground thing is REALLY important , if you use a common ground adapter, and connect the negative speaker wires in a stock head together, you will make smoke. Hope this helps.
  9. Just wanted to bring up a relatively old subject. I have a 2005 Pontiac GXP which I am tweaking beyond the mods that were available when it was new. I realize it's not a Cadillac, but with the Northstar engine, I believe I can be forgiven for posting here. Currently I have Madtuner.com PCM, K&N filter in a homemade cold air box ( properly sealed from the engine bay) , modified MAF intended for an LS1 engine, polyurethane sway bar links, Monroe coil shock conversion, ( ask me about my homemade ride height compressor solution.) a pair of higher flowing aftermarket cats with twin 2 1/2" factory shaped pipes, modified "Y" pipe and roll on 20" wheels. Still have the stock Helmholtz resonators but looking at mufflers and listening to YouTube sounds for the tone I want. I have been attempting to contact Comp Cams for a regrind, hoping to have one of the milder Ford 4.6 DOHC profiles or Ecotec profiles ( the Ecotec is very similarly the N*, including 1.68 follower ratio so they should be able to do a N*) ground on my cams. I have a set of all the factory cams from 00-05 for starting points, ( including a set of " rough idle " cams that were never replaced under warranty by the original cars owner ) depending on which profile gives them the most material to start with. Comp did the Wheel to Wheel cams back on the Tim the Tool Man days, but these cams are not quite what I am looking for in a DOHC. Also lobe profile technology has greatly improved in the time since these were done. I have been having trouble getting a response and 99-999-3 , custom grind part number, is no longer listed in the catalog, imterestinly, they still advertise custom cam grinding. CHRFAB says they can regrind 2nd gen cams and Elgin seems to have a pretty comprehensive regrind order form but I have always run Comp. Just seems to have worked out that way, so I trust their lobe philosophy, no other specific reason. If all else fails I will run some 03 L37 cams timed for performance instead of emissions. I doubt I will see any loss of low end since these cams are almost as small as the original LD8 profiles but have more lift due to the 1.68 ratio followers. I am also trying to find a junked Ford DOHC to see if their 1.8 follower will fit the N*. I have been trying to find the " raw " cam specs for an LH2 but no one seems to have spec'd them. I haven't been able to figure out how to retro- fit the heads and VVT to my LD8 but the cams themselves might have good numbers, I would probably need to pin the gears. Surprisingly, the bottleneck is not PCM programming but the oiling changes to the LH2 block. I suppose I could use the whole engine but I really don't want to try to fit a longitudal engine in a transverse installation. I'm not that good. I am also currently researching injector spray patterns so I can install injectors cable of handling the power increases. I have a " fair " budget, my car was " totaled in January but if I purchased it back for under $500 because it is such a good runner and the engine is worth more than the buy back. Using salvage yard parts and skipping the paint job for now ( I have tri-color Caddy white, holy crap it's expensive to get sprayed ) ,I am left with some unexpected coin and I can do a fair amount of fabrication so this is not really "pipe dreaming" . Contrary to some older information the Northstar is not " maxed out " from the factory. Checking factory cam specs show that the power level for my LD8 has remained the same as the original, even though I have the smallest cams ever used. You can't really make the cam smaller, keep the same power level and say the engine is at it's full potential. The real problem has always been the crossover pipe. At its smallest dimension it seems to be about 2" which means the L37's probably made different HP on the front and rear banks ( approximately 144 front and 156 rear ) . Using my test block/ trans and subframe, it seems I can just about squeeze a pair of 1 7/8" pipes side by side by using heat wrap and lowering the skid plate a negligible amount. This would allow a " real " 400 engine HP, which is fine for me, my target is slightly lower. Of course I would need the headers to be tri- y or 180 degree, since I have to make them anyway it really doesn't matter to me. The Fiero guys have been making sweet headers for years. I bought a U build box of header bends etc to make things easier. I am also looking for flow numbers for 2nd gen heads. I have heard the intakes flow better but the exhaust are " worse " ( as far as a DOHC having " bad " flowing ports. I don't think I will need porting on the intake but maybe extrude honing the exhaust. I won't know until I see the numbers and it is unlikely I can pop for flow testing. I have read most of the poppycock regarding the porting of N* heads and while I realize the info comes from a former GM engineer, it comes from a source that had little incentive to encourage the average car owner to do this. Additionally, if stock injectors were used, they were probably duty cycle beyond their intended max. I doubt the Shelby ran stock ports and injectors and nobody seems to complain about CHRFAB or BPE ported Northstar heads so no worries. Technology is also light years ahead of what could be accomplished back then. Finally, the 4t80e, I had wanted to swap in a 6t80e and enjoy the lower first gear ( possibly allowing a more radical camshaft) while maintaining the a similar final drive ratio in overdrive, with my 3.71s.( I don't mind a street car with poor manners ) and a better exhaust crossover situation. We all know that might not be so feasible until some 2014s show up in the salvage yards. One of the performance 4t65es would be ideal, but outside my budget. I have decided to stick with the 4t80e and install some of the newer 06-11 hard parts. If there was some way to swap the sun and planet gear tooth count, I could acheive a 4.16 ratio in the final drive to compensate for any stupidity I might suffer from cam selection. Small engines need RPM's and I love to hear my N* scream. Overdrive ratio would only jump from 2.52 to 2.83, hardly a deal breaker. Back in the day (TH350) we considered that a " fuel economy " ratio. I have access to a supplier of gears and such. There may just be an off the shelf solution, it will just take some time and careful measurements. Torque management is disabled on my tune and it spanks the tires nicely on the 1-2 shift. I have seen the original 305lbs/ft rating, which means it actually can handle at least 400 allowing for the standard engineering rule of 25% under rating for warranty purposes. Also, this rating was never updated as the factory made it's improvements. I was wondering if any one remembered the weak link that the guy ( Mark ? ) with the awesome turbo setup had, just in case I want to stock a spare. Sorry for the long post, but this is the place I think I can get my answers. I am a grownup, not a dreaming teenager, and my intended mods are more than possible for the average person who fabricates his/ her own parts on a regular basis. Thanks in advance for any tips, help or even critisisms. I realize this is old material, but it's what I have and what I want to mod.