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two2go

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Everything posted by two2go

  1. two2go
    I took our Jag to a new-to-me shop to see about the driveline noise. As I suspected, the problem is the extension housing. The shaft and bearing are going bad. They found a replacement being shipped from out of state. This shop handles classic and muscle cars and seem competent. Looking forward to getting it fixed.
  2. two2go
    Here's a shot of the front suspension. Lookie, lookie, I was wrong again (have to keep my quota). There is an anti-roll bar in all its metallic glory. So this is Chevette, right? I thought I saw a picture of Bruce's front set-up to compare, but couldn't find it now. I must say, GM had a pretty sophisticated suspension and driveline setup for an economy car. Roll bars front and rear. I don't remember Chevettes ever being considered handlers or sporty. But the narrow 13" bias ply tires would have killed a lot of the sport.
  3. two2go
    Yeah, probably the wiser choice. I just can't control my bargain grabber instincts.
  4. two2go
    Light bulb on! I think I see the reason for the diff. extension. Leaf springs keep the axle from twisting around the wheel axis in reaction to wheel power torque (except on 600hp dragsters), but coil springs won't. So, the rigid extension from the differential to a forward pivot point to control torque.
  5. two2go
    Another item. My Duke starts and runs OK, but could be better. I have tweaked the electric choke some, but starting and cold idle could be better. I have to goose the throttle continuously to keep the engine from stalling when cold, but the idle is plenty fast when warmed up good. I ran a couple of doses of strong fuel system cleaner through, which helped some. I suspect the carb could use a redo. No telling if the floats or anything else inside is set right or gummed up. I am following this carburetor on eBay. As much as I can tell from the pictures, it looks identical to mine. It's claimed to be rebuilt, but not much else to go on. What does anyone think? I have ordered some Chevette service manuals, but won't have them in time to consult if I want to grab this for what seems to be a pretty good price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/201089805046?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  6. two2go
    When I dig into my driveline issue more, I wil evaluate the stabilizer bar (why none or add one?).
  7. two2go
    One other thought. If you did get tires and wheels from the UK, I think you can get the VAT refunded. However, the freight has got to be pretty significant.
  8. two2go
    Wow, you are really working the "little gray cells" on this one. Personally, I would not go a whole lot bigger in overall tire diameter. You may close your fender gap a bit, but you are also increasing height off the ground. Somewhere, you posted that you were concerned about ground clearance underneath. I would seriously consider if there is a way you can lower the car a bit on the suspension. Another consideration is that while you want 6 wheels to have 2 for your side mounts, you don't need the same tires in there (unless you are going to dispose of the covers). Remember, the rim of an 18" wheel will be hidden behind the side mount cover, which may or may not matter to you. The tires won't show, so you could use a compact spare-type tire on those. Doubt you would ever need them, and you can always call Hagerty road coverage to rescue you. I don't have a spare tire for my motorhome and I have driven it 40k miles around the US and Canada, just relying on my emergency road service as a backup. So save money on the spares. I feel your pain on the cost of some of these options. Buying six 22.5" tires for the motorhome stung the budget a bit.
  9. two2go
    So Texas Jim, can you (or somebody) explain why GM would use this driveline design in a small low-powered car like the Chevette? I am talking about the extension tube from the differential which puts the rear-most U-joint more forward pretty much in a fixed position rather than having the U-joint at the differential and moving up and down with the axle? The whole rear end design with coil springs and trailing links and panhard rod, etc., would seem to be more complicated and expensive for a supposedly cheap-O car.
  10. two2go
    I found a couple of Chevette forums and have been reading through lots of posts. It looks like that bearing at the front end of the differential extension is actually held by a solid rubber "donut" (the rubber cushion in the drawing). I guess the design was to provide a bit of cushion for driveline lash and vibration. That's what we are going to explore when I can get the car into the shop. I also ordered a couple of shop manuals on eBay that hopefully will provide more insight.
  11. two2go
    Just for consideration, the 185 HR(80) 15 tire is 7.4" section width, 26.5 dia., 5-6.5 rim width recommended. The 205/70x15 is 8.2 width, 26.3 dia. 5.5-7.5 wide recommended. Are yours presently 205/70x14? They would be 8.3, 25.4, 5-7". Bob
  12. two2go
    The circle opening of my spare mount housings is exactly the same diameter as my 15" wheels rims to the edge. BTW, I did see some original SS100 front fenders (all aluminum I suppose) on eBay for $1995 each. Probably not a logical way to dispense with my side mounts. Oh, the 19" in painted silver would be cool stock looking though.
  13. two2go
    Bruce, when selecting your wheels and tires, don't forget about your side mount spare housings. If you are going to use them with the mounted tire inside, there is only so much room in there. If your want a big OD or section width tire, you may need to use a smaller tire for the spares. Also, will a 16" or larger wheel work with the OD of the opening of the outer cover shell? When I opened up my spare mount housings, I found two pretty sorry 205-70x15 tires that looked like junk yard rejects. They barely fit inside and it was difficult to refit the shell halves together with the ring and get those tiny screws back in. When I put new tires on, I kept the best two of the 195-75x15 running tires for spares. They fit inside the mount housings better, and I think they probably were designed around the 195 size. I wanted to dispense with the housings and just have the bare spare tires mounted to the sides because I was still looking for a more pure look, but my wife (the real car owner) vetoed that idea. Bob
  14. two2go
    Hmmm. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-WIRE-WHEEL-ADAPTERS-4-PIECE-SET-/251524421836?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a900618cc&vxp=mtr What could you do with those? Sorry, I just got my new high speed internet working (finally) after returning home from AZ and I've got some time on my hands...
  15. two2go
    Forgot to add my bit on tires. I went to narrow 165-80x15 VW Beetle tires because Wal Mart had them readily available for only $59 each, and they actually turned out to be an inch less in OD, so I lost 1/2" clearance and increased the fender gap a bit, but it's not noticeable. I have now discovered Coker Tire who has classic auto tires. The 185-80x15 Vredestein tire is the same OD as the original Duke 195-75x15 whitewalls that I had. You can also get original 6.70 x 15 tires if you can deal with bias ply tires instead of radials. Those would really be skinny and tall for a 15 incher.
  16. two2go
    If you want to mess around with modifying your hubs to splined hubs, you could assemble a set of British wheels like below because they always seem to be available. Don't know how ambitious you are and if you have a good patient mechanic or machinist. Direct bolt-ons with not much different offset would be the least painful. Bolt pattern adapters add width, which is why that one picture I posted of the Duke with Model A wheels seemed to look odd. You don't want your wheels to be outside of the fender line for proper proportions. Hope I'm not messing your thinking up too much. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Matching-Wire-Spoke-Wheels-15x5-Jaguar-British-Italian-Aston-Martin-/231224873087?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d613907f&vxp=mtr
  17. two2go
    The Brits have some> http://www.europaspares.com/mechanical/wheel-nuts-accessories/bolt-on-wire-wheels-chrome-5-1-2-x-15-4-stud-ford-108mm-inc-nuts-key-spanner.html Did you find this site? They look similar to some of your examples above, but the price doesn't seem so high. I believe they are in CA> http://www.ogrimsdirect.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=S16X7
  18. two2go
    Interesting about the trike wheels. Might be something to pursue. I saw these on eBay that aren't a bad look. These would fit either of our cars, but only 4 available. I assume you want 6. http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Wheels-Rims-4x100-4x108-Lancer-Neon-Scion-Aerio-Corolla-Yaris-Golf-Jetta-/171300883527?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item27e2540c47&vxp=mtr Actually, after looking at several SS100 variations, I wish just a little that I did not have the side mounts and just had a rear deck bare spare instead. IMHO, that is the more authentic look. I originally thought the side mounts had that elegant look, and they do get attention. Just not real SS100. Anybody have a set of plain fenders? It will be interesting to see what you find. Bob
  19. two2go
    I just looked under the car and compared it to the picture. It's all there, coil springs (not leafs), but minus the anti-roll bar. No roll bar at front either, but I haven't noticed any negatives to that. The car corners like a slot car racer. I suppose the spring rates, low C/G, and light weight work in favor. There is a healthy Panhard rod from the differential to the driver's side frame. I seem to be mistaken about the attachment of the differential extension. There is a frame cross member and the extension support bracket looks like it is bolted to that. When it warms up (we're having late winter), I will jack the Jag up and take some pictures. Maybe somebody can help me identify the front end assembly too. The assembly manual talks about using the Ford (I suppose Pinto or Mustang2) front end. But as near as I can measure, my wheel bolt pattern is 4 x 100mm, and that was the Chevette pattern. That would make more sense (Chevette front end) because how would they put the smaller bolt pattern on a Ford front, unless the whole caliper and hub is interchangeable?
  20. two2go
    THE PROBLEM. So, I have mentioned a developing driveline noise. I have driven the Jag about 600 miles since we got it. I once ran it on the freeway at 60-65 mph, but mostly drive it around town, up to 45-50. I have worked all the initial issues and it starts and runs pretty well. But there is an increasing grinding noise coming from underneath in the differential or drive shaft area. I had the joints checked and a mechanic changed the diff. fluid and checked out the axle and bearings and said everything seemed OK. Still no help, so got another opinion. The last shop took the differential housing extension off and sent it to a driveline specialty shop, but they sent it back with little explanation other than they couldn't fix it. The Chevette had this rear configuration... There is this rigid extension from the differential housing. My car does not have what looks to be a mounting bracket shown by the red arrow, so it would seem the assembly may not be mounted as it should be. I think the problem may be in the area circled where there is a bearing that may be going out and causing the grinding noise. Here is a cross-section of the extension... Where they show the rubber cushion, the car builder put in what looks like spray foam that is semi-rigid. I am thinking that lacking the center support and perhaps proper protection and/or retention of the bearing might be at issue here. As soon as we get some decent weather (snowing today on Mother's day--Springtime in the Rockies!!!), I have lined up another mechanic who has looked at these pictures and believes he can make it right. Fortunately, the previous two did not even charge me for their fair time even though they turned out to be fishing expeditions. Hope third time is a charm. Anyone ever come across a rear axle set-up like this? Really, lots of the mechanics now weren't even born when Chevettes were build.
  21. two2go
    Thinking about getting a pair of plus fours and knicker stockings to go with my black narrow shoes. What else? White shirt, vest, tweed cap, and driving goggles.
  22. two2go
    I have a 4-speed manual transmission, so CR put in a Volkswagen pedal set (beetle or bus?). There is very little foot space down there so I have to drive wearing my narrow opera pumps or some booties my wife knit for me. My running shoes are just too wide to avoid hitting two pedals at a time. There is a plethora of defroster hoses (4 outlets), but the heater is nice for top-down driving in our typically cool climate.
  23. two2go
    Choices, choices. Are you going for the classic look with narrower tires or a statement with wider tires in case you up your engine output? Looks like your options are pretty expensive. Are there any wire wheel cover options that you could use with a larger diameter wheel size? I suppose overall OD is an issue because you will be implementing higher gearing with a bigger OD. My 165-80-15 OD is withing a fraction inch of the original 195's that were on the car. The original Jag silver wheels looked pretty neat but probably would be hard to duplicate. Here is one replica I saw with Model A wire wheels. Doesn't seem quite proportional to me and the wheel to fender gap is still pretty big. Must have had to replace the hubs or use adapters. Maybe if they had been painted silver, it would look better? I pulled a page from the Dayton wheel catalog, but I don't know if they make the bolt pattern. My wheels might have been made by Dayton--not sure. I have the two-ear knock-offs. They mount via a bolt from the back of the wheel through a big fender washer that jam fits in the center opening. Good luck on your quest.
  24. two2go
    I had to refinish the dash because the original varnish was peeling. Bruce, I don't know of a dash plate that you asked about. There is an auxiliary panel below the dash for the radio and heater/defrost controls. 1. Before (a) You can see some of the frost corrosion on the steering wheel. Extra fine steel wool and polishing compound and it looks acceptable now though not up to concours quality. Good enough for the casual eye and for me. 2. Before ( I spent many hours sanding the dash in place because I was too lazy (and ignorant about disconnecting everything) with a catch cloth in my lap until I got down to bare wood and fine finish sanding and steel wool polish. I just used Johnson's paste wax for the final treatment. Looks great on the walnut veneer. 3. Final result. I really didn't want a radio and it didn't work anyway, but I needed to keep the aux. panel for the heat controls, and the Realistic AM/FM cassette unit was kind of old school looking. So I kept the face plate and controls for now but there is empty space behind. Don't have to worry about some fool stealing the radio 'cause there ain't none.
  25. two2go
    Bruce, if you look at my rear quarter and car show pix, those are without the chrome edge trim strips. I can try to get a better shot later.
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