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JohnnyG

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Everything posted by JohnnyG

  1. Jan, Does anybody in the Cadillac Club over there need a water pump belt for a Northstar? I have a leftover GATES (US/made in Mexico) Part Number K030245 Micro-V that is brand new, never used. Would gladly mail it to you for free if you PM me.

    Looks like former part number may be 3PK625.

    I no longer need it since my purchase of a MB E350 4matic.

    John

    1. Jan Olsson

      Jan Olsson

      Hi!

      I'm sure that the belt will come to good use. I suggest that you post in the Swedish sub-forum about it since I made a promise that I'll never make a post there again. I did not agree to the Cadillac Club Sweden way of doing things (they feel that it is their forum) and was also tired of the attitude of far to many posters there. For a couple of years I was the moderator over there and discovered that they are nothing like the helpful and eager to learn bunch found in the American forum...

    2. JohnnyG

      JohnnyG

      Sorry to hear that Jan. If you personally don't need the belt, I will offer it for free on the normal forum. As you note, just trying to be helpful.

    3. Jan Olsson

      Jan Olsson

      I don't have any use for it but I'm sure that your help will be appreciated!

  2. Yes, I'm going to let it go, but in re-reading the quote from the manual, it doesn't even make sense. It should read: 1. Push in on the front of the seat cushion and pull up and out to remove. Why would it say "Lift up..." and then say "pull up" later in the same sentence? Something must have been lost in translation. I hate errors like this!
  3. In this case the GM Service manual is incorrect. Much like airmike says, my '99 STS was the same way. You must push in (toward the trunk) on the lower edge of the seat cushion to disengage the hooks (yes, they are there) from the wire loops that protrude down from the seat cusion edge. I'd post a picture, but with any luck I won't need to pull that darn thing for another 5 years.
  4. Nope, doesn't work that way on my car. In fact, I had a short pry bar under the front lip of the seat HOPING it would come out. I don't think I'd want the seat to come loose that easily, in an accident I can see it hitting the back of the front seats and who knows where it would end up from there. Anyway, for those that have the properly secured rear seat (and I've seen at least one post on this board asking for help) this is the way to go. The new battery seems to have fixed my issues, so I'm ready to head south again!
  5. After 5 years of ownership, and some pretty rough service (the car sits for 6 months at a time) my battery bit the dust. Just refused to hold a charge. I thought I'd pull the back seat and check the connections but found it nearly impossible to do, probably since it's never been out before. After struggling with it for a bit, I came upon a solution to help me push in on the bottom edge of the back seat. I moved the front seats all the way forward, and made a short piece of 2X4 just long enough to reach from the lower lip of the rear seat to the hard plastic "base" of the front seats. I wrapped the 2X4 in a terry towel to help protect the leather, then started moving the front seats back. This helped me push in on the rear seat lower lip just enough to get the catches released and the seat removed. Take it slow so as not to damage the seat motors, as the motors were just about to stall, but it worked like a charm. $125.00 for a new battery and a few hours later, it's ready for the road again! (At least I hope it is, time will tell!)
  6. My first Caddy was a 1965 SDV, but my second was a 1969 SDV. Yes, it had four doors, but still kept the fender skirts. In that car, I was able to swap out the AM/FM (station seeking) radio for a QUADRAPHONIC 8 track player! I still miss that car, which was a dark maroon color with black interior, just beautiful! That one was also traded for a 1974 SDV Calais, light blue (no vinyl top, blue cloth interior). It never really had the same appeal that the '69 had. AND, I can still live without XM Radio and OnStar.
  7. I'd say that's about all it can be. The roof is never designed for a water tight fit, they all rely on the drains to keep water from accumulating in the gutter under the roof. Don't use air to blow them out, you can blow the drain line off the drain fitting. Use weedeater string and work carefully, starting from under the car if possible.
  8. However, I do still have a can of Johnson's Paste Floor Wax (yeah, I do stuff like that.) that I'll let go cheap! It works on cars too..
  9. Yeah, I remember Blue Coral. I was about 18 when I first tried to get it off of my '62 Impala. I decided right then that I never wanted to own another can! NXT for me any day
  10. The sticker under the hood of my '99 says nothing about plug gap. It tells me what coolant to use, and to add the sealant tabs (3), and what the colors of the different "gizmos" mean (fluids), but no plug gap info. Another sticker, way back under the hood and attached to it, tells about vacuum hose routing and the major component layout, but no plug gap info there either. This is a "9" engine, STS
  11. Actually, the point of my post was NOT to sell you pads or rotors from this site. I know that may be hard to understand in this day and age. However, if you click on the "Technical" tab, you may learn a little more about your problem and figure out a way to avoid a recurrence.
  12. Well, it sounds like you are pretty level headed and open to the fact that what you have heard for all these years may actually have NO basis in fact whatsoever. There are people that believe there is NO SUCH THING as a warped rotor, and some of what you say in your post sounds like you have actually figured that out for yourself! That's pretty amazing to me...very perceptive. Here is a link that might confirm what you suspect and help you get the brake performance that you are looking for. http://www.stoptech.com/ As for me, I'll stay with the Bendix Titanium, for my money it's a good choice. You, on the other hand, need to find some rotors. Stay away from the Chinese junk, too thin to absorb the heat and can only be refinished once.
  13. My money is on a stuck chain tesioner. I remember from a year or two ago, that Guru said that the tensioners are actuated by oil pressure. In other words, oil pressure forces them out against the chains, but a ratcheting mechanism keeps the out there until the next startup. Anyway, this is a low oil flow area, due to the nature of the design, and a stuck tesioner can happen. Unfortunately, being a low flow area, the chances of Marvel Mystery Oil, or any other solvent freeing it up are slim to none. As to the brakes, unless you drive the car really hard, like racing hard, I'd be looking for some stuck calipers. Brown stains and heat stress cracks do not develop normally under normal driving conditions. Well, sometimes brown stains do, but not on the rotors. Last, I've installed to Bendix Titanium pads on the front of my '99 STS. All the parts and connectors were included for about $50.00 less than the dealer supplied Delco parts. To date, about 6 months of use has shown them to be superior in cleanliness and stopping ability (no brake dust). Nothing but good things to report about them at this time. Longevity could be an issue...I'll let you know after I put about 50,000 miles on them!
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