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There are no switches in the door actuator. All the switches are in the door handle assembly. The door handle(s) will function fine manually. 
Another possible problem.....there is a rubber boot at the front of the door (of each door).... in between the door and the car body. Sometimes the wires can break inside. 

There are no switches in the door actuator. All the switches are in the door handle assembly. The door handle(s) will function fine manually. 
Another possible problem.....there is a rubber boot at the front of the door (of each door).... in between the door and the car body. Sometimes the wires can break inside. 

The door lock actuator is the part that grabs the car body and keeps it shut. 
I think the switch(s) are inside the actual door handle. The attached picture shows the inside of a CTS exterior door handle....but I think the SRX is either identical or very similar. 

Conflicting info.....my GM info shows the 2007 amp behind the left rear cargo area panel. 
Repair depends on the actual vehicle options. You will have to look at the RPO sticker. There are (2) different amps. 
With UQA premium sound. No programming needed. 
With UQS premium sound with subwoofer. Requires some programming to be done. 
 
Also......no chime modules like the old days. All the sounds come thru the radio. Door open, seat belt, turn signals etc.
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/354792143186?hash=item529b427952:g:ckwAAOSwRA1kZUqn&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8G2gVe5T6m8wnZCBDM8Ihgv%2F77GHgdmK9k7c7J2YLz9rNlew6qKyT0D4gugtR6y7SnQyCCKy52qo6yCHgHemqGFZpDstMAFAQr3uXBz%2BDXGcV34LrDl8HKUeSzutESlKBEARqplpcnUKRnkkhlwdaU%2BvMGZUn7JVhVWZGVx0yaU027Iy6z8zAg7ZVC%2Fjer%2BJV41sGizJSxNgmQkbUQ0eEE3%2FuONrmC4PpYgydqTj0iZhzQHRd16I3p3oTIoBt8nJ4V%2B1AVAoQ6xwA%2F28HEygnk97lbmXMDe3tZNyEm1rJ9dOkpLmp27D5qbF8jo6iwVw7g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMmNSr785i
 
 
 
 
Also.....Just FYI.....Lots of BMWs just have press on tips. Very tight but are a press fit. You might be able to see some youtubes on it. You might have some luck there.
 

It's not so much the transmission that needs to be in park......it's the big PNP switch that has to be in 'park'. 
Anyway....at the theft relay....Pin B should have 12v + all the time. If not....blown fuse or fuseable link. 
                                                Pin F should have 12v + during cranking. If not....blown fuse or fuseable link....or PNP switch bad or out out  'park' or 'neutral' position.....or bad ignition switch. 
 
If both of those test OK.....No ground signal is coming from the cluster.....likely a PASS key problem. 

Are you using Dexcool or traditional green coolant?
Dexcool can cause rusting in the air pockets on iron blocks. Long known problem. 
Personally I use the good old fashion green stuff in everything. 

Never worked on a LT1 pump. I think the cover comes right off and uses a o-ring. But I think the impeller is pressed on. But it may allow you to at least see if anything looks amiss.
Lot's on Google and Google Images. Corvette...z28 etc..
 
It is a reverse flow pump.....so you might have to think about what the flow is doing...
 
https://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/knowledgebase/article/1992-1996-corvette-technical-article-lt1-reverse-flow-cooling-system-526.html
  How does a lt1 water pump work?     Coolant flows from the lower radiator hose into the water pump at the thermostat through the heads on the way to the block. The reverse flow pump acts as a vacuum pump in drawing the water out of the block. It then passes the thermostat and returns it to the radiator via the upper hose.

I don't think the pump is doing anything.....saw one of LT1 post where the impeller was just spinning on the shaft. 

I would take a close look at the water pump impeller. Some pumps are actually using plastic ones. The pump could also be a counterfeit Gates.  
https://www.impalassforum.com/threads/water-pump-impeller.341985/

I would take a close look at the water pump impeller. Some pumps are actually using plastic ones. The pump could also be a counterfeit Gates.  
https://www.impalassforum.com/threads/water-pump-impeller.341985/

Couple of pics added.....
Gauge...not sure how accurate the description is....but likely pretty close. Gauge should stay at 12 o'clock. 
Front air baffles. Often damaged in front wrecks. Large lower panel and 2 side air baffles are needed or you can have overheating problems. # 4, 5, 6 and 15. 
Fans. Both should turn freely turned off....may be jammed or broken or missing. A real good scan tool can turn on/off the fans for testing (GM Tech2). This also verifies wiring, relays and fuses. 
Could have possible wire harness damage, blown fuses or blown fuse links. 
The Northstar is also known for pulled head bolts that causes overheating. But....being the car appears to have past front end damage....I would check all that before chasing head bolt issues. 
 

I've never worked on one......but I've heard of it......sounds like it may be a CPS problem.  The CPS is the power supply. 
Link to another site that may offer some hints...
https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/entire-dash-cluster-gone.195380/
 
That said.....if the fuses are ok......it may have blown a fusible link.
 

I've never worked on one......but I've heard of it......sounds like it may be a CPS problem.  The CPS is the power supply. 
Link to another site that may offer some hints...
https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/entire-dash-cluster-gone.195380/
 
That said.....if the fuses are ok......it may have blown a fusible link.
 

It does go thru the BCM. The BCMs can and do go bad. They'll do crazy stuff like turn on the hazards 30 minutes after the car is turned off. They do have to be programmed. 
 
From the GM service manual....2008 SRX. 
"Ground is applied at all times at G200 to the turn signal/multifunction switch. The turn signal lamps may only be activated with the ignition switch in the ON or START position. When the turn signal/multifunction switch is placed in either the TURN RIGHT or TURN LEFT position, ground is applied to the body control module (BCM) through either the right turn or left turn signal switch signal circuit. The BCM then applies a pulsating voltage to the front and rear turn signal lamps through there respective voltage supply circuits. Ground for the left and right front turn signal lamp is supplied at G104. Ground for the rear turn signal lamps is supplied at G402 for the left and G401 for the right."
 
Can also be a bad IPC. 
"Turn Signal Indicators Malfunction
Ignition ON, with a scan tool perform the Display Test for the instrument panel cluster (IPC) and observe the turn signal lamp indicators.
⇒ If the turn signal lamp indicators illuminate during the test, replace the BCM. 
⇒ If the turn signal lamp indicators do not illuminate during the test or remain illuminated at all times, replace the IPC." 
 

It does go thru the BCM. The BCMs can and do go bad. They'll do crazy stuff like turn on the hazards 30 minutes after the car is turned off. They do have to be programmed. 
 
From the GM service manual....2008 SRX. 
"Ground is applied at all times at G200 to the turn signal/multifunction switch. The turn signal lamps may only be activated with the ignition switch in the ON or START position. When the turn signal/multifunction switch is placed in either the TURN RIGHT or TURN LEFT position, ground is applied to the body control module (BCM) through either the right turn or left turn signal switch signal circuit. The BCM then applies a pulsating voltage to the front and rear turn signal lamps through there respective voltage supply circuits. Ground for the left and right front turn signal lamp is supplied at G104. Ground for the rear turn signal lamps is supplied at G402 for the left and G401 for the right."
 
Can also be a bad IPC. 
"Turn Signal Indicators Malfunction
Ignition ON, with a scan tool perform the Display Test for the instrument panel cluster (IPC) and observe the turn signal lamp indicators.
⇒ If the turn signal lamp indicators illuminate during the test, replace the BCM. 
⇒ If the turn signal lamp indicators do not illuminate during the test or remain illuminated at all times, replace the IPC." 
 

Expensive system to repair. GM did issue a bulletin on ways to turn off the message. 
Of course......GM says this should only be done after replacing the struts...(ok...wink, wink...) And it does mention 1991 Eldorado about 1/2 way down the article. 
https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/trouble-shooter-april-2006/
 
And some info on the ALDL showing pin IDs. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ALDL

Expensive system to repair. GM did issue a bulletin on ways to turn off the message. 
Of course......GM says this should only be done after replacing the struts...(ok...wink, wink...) And it does mention 1991 Eldorado about 1/2 way down the article. 
https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/trouble-shooter-april-2006/
 
And some info on the ALDL showing pin IDs. 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ALDL

Been a while since messing with one....
The message (36) is just a dash board message to tell you the system needs to be checked. To get the code(s) you have to go to the actual CCR module and flash out the codes on the error lamp. 
Something that age I'm not going to replace anything. '92 and later cars with CCC had a way to turn off the system by changing some settings in the cluster or installing a relay (depending on year). Not sure about a 1991. 
 

Well yeah.....it looks like something is missing. That's why I mentioned I was not familiar with that mount style. 
Is that a actual picture of your strut? Surely it would be noisy. Have you looked at the other side?
Looks like some type of press fit that failed.....hence the locked strut theory. 
I don't have any GM service info for the 2019. There are some exploded views on Google pictures.  
Anyway......certainly looks like some parts are missing. I attached a couple of pictures of what's listed as a strut for a 2019 XTS. Also a pic of what I think it's suppose to look like. 
 
Also.....there are a few posts on Google about the struts locking up on the XTS......kinda like the GM SUVs.  
 
 


 

The FWD vehicles using this engine......yeah.....drop the cradle. 
The GM dealership service info shows it either way for RWD '09 CTS......in the car and out of the car. 
Update........came across a pic of the job being done with the engine / trans / cradle in a CTS. 
Don't know what the book time is to do the job.....but 11 hours seems kinda light. 

Looked around for a month for a used tire changer. No real luck......used ones are overpriced, discontinued or ready for the scrap heap. 
Also the newer units can do the larger tires. 
Great bang for the $. A new Derek Weaver tire changer. 
Video is not me. But same unit. 
 
 

Looked around for a month for a used tire changer. No real luck......used ones are overpriced, discontinued or ready for the scrap heap. 
Also the newer units can do the larger tires. 
Great bang for the $. A new Derek Weaver tire changer. 
Video is not me. But same unit. 
 
 

Wow.....I'm about to pull the trigger and buy the wheel mounting machine too. Be done with those fools at the tire stores. 
Now 3 cars........all 3 riding better than they ever have! 
So 12 wheels so far. Couple of interesting things....
1 bent wheel. Bad enough I will have to replace or repair it before putting new rubber on. It's on the back for now. 
2 wheels that had no weight at all. No witness tape marks or anything. Of course they are good now with weight. 
 
Lengthy review of the stuff by someone else (not me).....great pics. 
 https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/at-home-tire-machines-my-experience-with-derek-wea/170332/page1/
 

Been put off by local sloppy wheel balances for years......they simply are not doing it right....
Firestone....Discount Tire....
"We'll put our best new guy on it.".....yikes..
It cannot be done correctly in one or two 90 second spins. You really need about 20-30 minutes per wheel to get them right.
Firestone finally pissed me off. Needed one BMW TPMS sensor installed on a single wheel....had the wheel off the car....had the new OEM sensor in hand....."Sorry....We only put our TPMS sensors in." 
 
Sooo......purchased a wheel balancer. So far....2 cars now driving perfect at highway speeds....A BMW and a Chevrolet.
 
https://www.derekweaver.com/rodders-garage/wheel-balancers/weaver-w-937-40-wheel-balancer/ny 
 
Any questions let us know. Excellent product.