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That car is using a GM / Saginaw steering column. Used forever from the late '60's till sometime in the '90's in GM vehicles. Not a common problem.....but a known problem that could happen. A worn out turn signal switch. Pretty much all the lamp wires have to go thru the turn signal switch to accommodate the turn signals and hazards function. If you search on Google you should be able to find out lots of info on worn out GM / Saginaw turn signal switches.

Saw this on another post with the same problem. "I tried 745K6, to have tension you need 735K6."

There are no switches in the door actuator. All the switches are in the door handle assembly. The door handle(s) will function fine manually. Another possible problem.....there is a rubber boot at the front of the door (of each door).... in between the door and the car body. Sometimes the wires can break inside.

The door lock actuator is the part that grabs the car body and keeps it shut. I think the switch(s) are inside the actual door handle. The attached picture shows the inside of a CTS exterior door handle....but I think the SRX is either identical or very similar.

The actual part is about $45-50 online. Couple of ways to do the repair on Youtube etc. One is remove the steering wheel and air bag. The other is remove the upper and lower shrouds. The GM service manual does it the second way.....remove the shrouds. No idea on the cost to do the repair. Appears to be about an hour to do.

Conflicting info.....my GM info shows the 2007 amp behind the left rear cargo area panel. Repair depends on the actual vehicle options. You will have to look at the RPO sticker. There are (2) different amps. With UQA premium sound. No programming needed. With UQS premium sound with subwoofer. Requires some programming to be done. Also......no chime modules like the old days. All the sounds come thru the radio. Door open, seat belt, turn signals etc.

It's the headlight stalk / turn signal switch assembly. It appears to be a semi common SRX problem.

They are kind of all over on Google. The system is known for creating water.....the secondary air pump and valves suffer accordingly from water damage. Don't know where you are.....I think the California cars actually have 2 different air pumps installed. Standard emission cars have 1 air pump installed.

Poking around some.......company is AP Exhaust Products. They seem to still be around and have a web site. https://apemissions.com/ Looks like other side is # 700230. So one side is 700229.....other side is 700230. Looks like the stock of 700230 is less. But all you need is one.. https://www.amazon.com/AP-Exhaust-Products-700230-Muffler/dp/B000CHNNC8 Or you might be able to contact AP Exhaust and buy just the tip or tips. You might want to offer to buy all the old tips they might have.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/354792143186?hash=item529b427952:g:ckwAAOSwRA1kZUqn&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8G2gVe5T6m8wnZCBDM8Ihgv%2F77GHgdmK9k7c7J2YLz9rNlew6qKyT0D4gugtR6y7SnQyCCKy52qo6yCHgHemqGFZpDstMAFAQr3uXBz%2BDXGcV34LrDl8HKUeSzutESlKBEARqplpcnUKRnkkhlwdaU%2BvMGZUn7JVhVWZGVx0yaU027Iy6z8zAg7ZVC%2Fjer%2BJV41sGizJSxNgmQkbUQ0eEE3%2FuONrmC4PpYgydqTj0iZhzQHRd16I3p3oTIoBt8nJ4V%2B1AVAoQ6xwA%2F28HEygnk97lbmXMDe3tZNyEm1rJ9dOkpLmp27D5qbF8jo6iwVw7g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMmNSr785i Also.....Just FYI.....Lots of BMWs just have press on tips. Very tight but are a press fit. You might be able to see some youtubes on it. You might have some luck there.

Ok...got it. How did you deal with the harness? Did you leave it dressed on the engine......or did you disconnect everything from the engine?

Another question.....Did you pull the engine/trans to install the studs?

I don't think that matters. But it is a clue.. Original GM cables are either stacked.....or molded together. The other picture shows the stacked version.....if the lead battery terminal spacer is left out....you can get odd electrical problems. It happens. This picture shows the positive cables molded together version.

Curious about the battery cable (s)..... Do you have the style where the two positive cables are stacked? Did you remember the lead spacer needed between the two? Or do you have the (2) cables molded into one joint style?

There are some Passkey related fuses in the trunk.....may be worth a look. See attached schematic. As for the key....There are 2 ways to reset it. One is using a Tech 2 scanner.....which you don't have. The other procedure is below.. Tools Required: None Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start). Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK). Important: The vehicle learns the password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle. Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the password). With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed (history DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles).

It's not so much the transmission that needs to be in park......it's the big PNP switch that has to be in 'park'. Anyway....at the theft relay....Pin B should have 12v + all the time. If not....blown fuse or fuseable link. Pin F should have 12v + during cranking. If not....blown fuse or fuseable link....or PNP switch bad or out out 'park' or 'neutral' position.....or bad ignition switch. If both of those test OK.....No ground signal is coming from the cluster.....likely a PASS key problem.

When you say you jumped the 'starter relay'.......do you mean you jumped the 'theft deterrent' relay in the schematic? The car needs to 'think' it's in park or neutral....the actual shifter is not a good indicator of what gear it is actually in. So if the shifter and cable got out of adjustment.....shifter might be in park....but car is really in reverse kind of thing....or the shifter might show reverse....and it's really in park. You might need a scan tool to verify actual gear vs what the shifter is showing.

Did you mess with the transmission shifter? The car has to be in park or neutral or it will do nothing. Maybe pinched wire or blown fuse. I did attach a schematic for the 1999 Deville.

LT1 engine? Different setup. It has a schrader valve. See attached picture....center right... It should be under a little black screw on cap

No port......Lots of '80-90s GM TBI systems lack a port. You have to open a metal fuel line and install a inline gauge. Pain to do when engine is hot etc.....but so it goes....you need a kit to do it. https://www.toolsunlimited.com/pdf/ToolsCat_74.pdf

My GM hard drive DVD service info only goes up to around 2011. I don't think GM issues service information DVDs to dealers anymore. GM does have the factory service information available online for a small fee. $22 for unlimited access for 3 days....all of GM dating back to 1998.....print out all you want.....Up to date service bulletins. Same exact information the dealerships use. Helm Inc and printed service manuals have gone the way of the buggy whip. https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions Scroll down to 'Service Information' and see 'General Motors Service Repair Manual Information'.

Are you using Dexcool or traditional green coolant? Dexcool can cause rusting in the air pockets on iron blocks. Long known problem. Personally I use the good old fashion green stuff in everything.

Please note the info about the dual flow thermostat. https://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/knowledgebase/article/1992-1996-corvette-technical-article-lt1-reverse-flow-cooling-system-526.html

Never worked on a LT1 pump. I think the cover comes right off and uses a o-ring. But I think the impeller is pressed on. But it may allow you to at least see if anything looks amiss. Lot's on Google and Google Images. Corvette...z28 etc.. It is a reverse flow pump.....so you might have to think about what the flow is doing... https://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/knowledgebase/article/1992-1996-corvette-technical-article-lt1-reverse-flow-cooling-system-526.html How does a lt1 water pump work? Coolant flows from the lower radiator hose into the water pump at the thermostat through the heads on the way to the block. The reverse flow pump acts as a vacuum pump in drawing the water out of the block. It then passes the thermostat and returns it to the radiator via the upper hose.

I don't think the pump is doing anything.....saw one of LT1 post where the impeller was just spinning on the shaft.