Logan

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About Logan

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    Logan Diagnostic

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  • Car Model and Year
    Fake DTS, 2010 MINI S, 2010 MINI JCW
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Franklin, TN

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  1. I'm not quite sure what you are asking.. Here are a couple of 1987 Allantes from eBay.....each has a VIN # listed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Cadillac-Allante/142416964119?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D44883%26meid%3D76d0995a5e0041a699d025fb0c720af3%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D152593249982 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Cadillac-Allante-Loaded/152593249982?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D44883%26meid%3D76d0995a5e0041a699d025fb0c720af3%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D152593249982
  2. As for actuators....there are 3 may be 4 different ones. They do have a direct impact on outlet temperature. Typically the gears crack and slip on the motors.
  3. This has been going on for years.....cold passenger side....warm drivers side....no codes set. Car is low on Freon. It's even talked about in the service manual.....'The A/C system is under charged but not enough to show a difference in low or high side pressures'. As for the service manual....it mentions 2-3 degrees....figure more like 10-15 degrees difference. There will be no 'low freon' codes....AC gauges will read perfectly normal pressures.
  4. Don't know much about them...I've never seen one....but there are some GM radios with a MD system....also known as Mini Disc. A failed format. CD-Rs and MP3 players pretty much killed it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MiniDisc
  5. Tennessee silencer? How about a Tennessee Buick?.....picture taken in front of a Kroger about a month ago....middle TN area....Bed full of empty beer cans and empty beer cartons.
  6. By far....the most common TimeSert tool we rent is for the Toyota 2.4L block. Very common on that engine to have pulled head bolts. It is interesting to note: Both the Toyota block and most Northstars (thru 2003) use the same size head bolt thread. M11 x 1.5. They both use the same TimeSert 11155 insert. It is also interesting to note it is most often the 3 rear head bolts that pull on the Toyota block. Lots of info on Google about pulled Toyota 2.4L head bolts. Toyota has walked away from the problem. The big difference....is on the Toyota...the repair is doable with the engine in the car. Quite a bit room to do the repairs effectively. The repair can be done by most shade tree mechanics with limited direction.
  7. Here is one place we know of. Don't see any Deville ones on first glance. You may have to dig around some... https://www.darspoilers.com/collections/cadillac-spoilers We still get calls about the Eldo third brake lights for these.
  8. The ESC module is behind the rear seat. Did find a couple of pics for the 2002 with F55. #1 in third pic is the ESC.
  9. For @OldCadTech.....it was suggested to him to go eyeball the ABS unit. Being mounted low, wet and outside and is known for long term wiring issues...it might be the best place to look first just to verify nothing obvious is wrong with the wiring in that area causing a odd network issue. The ABS unit is down low in front of the left side frame rail.
  10. A GM Tech 2 is the diagnostic scan tool used by GM dealers. Most GM service manual diagnostic flow charts are geared toward (1)...you are a GM dealer. And (2)...you have a GM Tech 2 scan tool. So...with out a GM Tech 2. All the GM service manual information is kind of useless.
  11. If it really is a network problem....a bunch of modules will have to be checked. My guess is the 'short to volt' code is really a failed module....but which one? You really need a Tech 2 to go by the service manual procedure. It assumes the Tech 2 will be unable to communicate while the fault is present. It could be any of these modules on the network: PCM EBTCM Radio Cluster CCP MMM Heater and AC programmer Cell phone Memory seat module SDM CVRSS Radio amp RIM RFA PZM These 15 modules are kinda located all over the car. I will mention....the EBTCM (aka as the ABS unit..) is mounted low and outside of the car and is subject to moisture / wiring problems over the long haul. It may be worth taking a quick look to inspect it for any obvious condition first.
  12. Bunch of codes for the air bag SDM. The 'cc' codes don't match anything in the service manual except 1301. The 1301 code is the best clue. 'Serial data line class 2 shorted to voltage'. Somewhere there could be a nick in the harness....shorting to voltage somehow....dragging the network down. And that's if it's not a false code. Good luck...could be anywhere...or... could be a internal failure in one of the modules on the network. It would be tough to have a GMC dealer walk up and figure it out. It's new to them too. Both pics are from the SDM diagnostics code list in the GM service manual.
  13. Depending on if it is the Auxiliary power outlet or the cigar lighter. Cigar lighter fuse is in the underhood fuse block C/LTR1 Aux power outlet underhood fuse block C/LTR2 There is also a fuse in the rear fuse block called 'cigar' fuse.
  14. There were several TSBs for the clunk. One had you use a different grease..it came in a repair kit....that proved to be a short lived solution. On mine...I replace the shaft with a used one. There is a newer shaft available....not sure if it still available or not. Here is a copy of one of the TSBs from Google related to the clunk. Not sure if it's the latest one. It was a common issue at the time and it certainly was not just a Cadillac and Pontiac problem. Looking at the TSB....it says the newer design is a double D.....pretty sure my noisy one was a double D design....be sure to check to see if there is a newer bulletin. This one is dated 2006. TSB#06-02-35-010 - (05/09/2006) Quote: Models: 2001-2004 Cadillac Seville -- with RPO JL4 2001-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2000-2005 Pontiac Bonneville Attention: This bulletin ONLY applies to the above listed vehicles. All other cars with a similar condition should refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-001G. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle while driving during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once for every 360° of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel. Cause This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise. Diagnostic Tip Important: This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern. Engineering Investigation shows that numerous steering gears have been misdiagnosed and replaced. The investigations shows that if the technician incorrectly diagnoses the steering gear as the cause of the noise and/or clunk during replacement of the steering gear, the technician may stroke and/or cycle the I-shaft, distributing the original grease in the I-shaft. This distribution of the original I-shaft grease temporarily may eliminate the I-shaft clunk so that the technician believes the noise and/or clunk is corrected with the steering gear replacement and returns the vehicle to the customer. After the customer drives the vehicles for several miles and dissipates the original grease, the noise may return. Attempt to duplicate the customer's concern and isolate the I-shaft by following the procedure below: Locate a large area (parking lot) where the vehicle can be turned in a tight circle. Turn the steering wheel to the right and/or left all the way to the steering lock, then off the steering lock a 1/4 turn. Drive the vehicle approximately 5 km/h (3 mph) in a circle, preferably over rough pavement or seams on the road surface. If a clunk is felt in the steering wheel, the MOST likely cause is the I-shaft - not the steering gear. Continue with the correction. Correction Important: The replacement steering intermediate shaft is physically different in appearance than the original. However, the vehicle's ride performance will not be affected. Replace the original concentric style steering shaft with P/N 26068295, a Double "D" design. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in SI.