area310dude
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No snide! It was meant as a compliment, you taught me a lot here and I really, really appreciate it. If I was in Washington State, there is a beer and a pizza slice (with your name on it) I would like to give you! Personally I couldn't find that much on the WWW about BLM and INT, so whatever you have to say on the subject, I would absorb like a sponge. Especially with your tremendous background of knowledge and experience. sorry for the misunderstanding. -
It's okay to post a thesis here, professor! Most us on this forum must certainly be amateurs like me, so only good can result from sharing the knowledge. Maybe we could post some of this Block Learn info in a reference or 'sticky' part of the website. I found some great website information that includes exactly what you said about Block Learn (BLM) and Integrator (INT) values: http://carprogrammer.com/Z28/PCM/FAQ/How GM Electronic Fuel Injection Works.htm (incomplete, but still helpful) http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/BLMINT.html (about the Buick Regal, but still a very good and intuitive article) I think maybe my earlier posting of the BLM and INT values doesn't help much because that is only just one 'Cell' situation where the Eldorado is idling at a fixed low RPM and low airflow. The bottom line is that the rest of the 15 Cells (out of the total 16) are probably trying to correct a too-lean condition on the left bank of the engine, and not succeeding very well? Please correct me if I'm saying anything incorrect.
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I read in the FSM that 128 is the optimal value for codes ED36 thru ED39. Since both the Left and Right B/Ls are below 128 (122 and 104 respectively) doesn't this indicate that both banks are too rich as sensed by the O2 sensors and they are trying to run lean?
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Hi I'm delaying the O-ring carburetor spray test a bit until the fuel injector additive in my gas tank burns down a bit more. In the meantime could you tell me what the values below might indicate in relation to my E046 dilemma? These are the diagnostic values just at idle. I figure any extra evidence to share with you might help solve the puzzle. ED36 Left Fuel Integrator 128 ED37 Right Fuel Integrator 128 ED38 Left Block Learn Fuel 122 ED 39 Right Block Learn Fuel 104 The numbers tend to jump around a bit with the exception of the 104 Right B/L number that stays steady.
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Ok thanks, that sounds like an easy check, I'll try it. I had another funny thought about the left/right bank fueling difference: Since I haven't had a smog test yet to see if my NOx has reduced since cleaning the EGR system and replacing the EGR valve, could it be possible that the maybe the left bank is NOT TOO LEAN, but just fine? Because maybe the right bank is burning TOO RICH, caused by a faulty injector on the right bank that is dripping extra fuel? I included a picture of the old left and right O2 sensors below, can you conclude something from that? And also, I should mention that the 'Service Engine Soon' light from the E046 code has always been intermittent, not constant, and always throwing the SES light when the engine is hot, usually when I get home after a long trip and the car is idling in the driveway. The SES light is always off with E046 as a 'history' when I start it from a cold condition. When the E046 code and 'Service Engine Soon' light comes on as 'current', I can also detect a faint rotten egg smell from the exhaust. Isn't rotten egg smell an indicator of burning the fuel too rich? Can we make some conclusions about these extra pieces of evidence I have provided?
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Hi OldCadTech and Cadillac guys It's been a long time since I last posted, but in that time I replaced both O2 sensors, the EGR valve, cleaned out the throttle body and EGR tubes, added fuel injector cleaner, but unfortunately the E046 'Left to Right Bank Fueling Difference' code came back just the same! I think I did learn something that could be an important clue though. When I removed the right bank O2 sensor, it was very black and sooty, but the old left bank O2 sensor was very clean looking, with no black stuff at all. Obviously the right bank cylinders are combusting much richer than the lean left bank. Maybe I should look for a non-working fuel injector(s) on the left bank, causing a lean condition? Running too lean causes excessive NOx and smog test failures too, right?
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OldCadTech reacted to a post in a topic:
Understanding Fault Tree for E046 PCM Code
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Ok thanks, fellas. I have a lot of work to do in the next week or two, I guess. I will let you all know if I am able to get rid of the E046 code and also pass the smog test. I think threads posted here are much more useful when we can read about how to successfully solve particular problems and trouble codes seen on the cars. If the original posters just disappear at the end of a thread, we never know if a certain approach was successful or not.
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Okay, I can see that a complete EGR system check is really essential to passing a smog test with low NOx. I will definitely put that on the agenda, and check if the EGR solenoid is working well too. As well as cleaning out the throttle body and the EGR tubes. Since the previous vacuum gauge testing seemed to eliminate a fuel injector problem or a vacuum leak, should I also plan to replace the two O2 sensors in order to eliminate the E046 code and help improve my chances of passing the smog test? Remember I was getting some extended lengths of time with zero (0) cross count readings on the right and left O2 sensors? I got a lot of things on my plate with the old Eldorado I plan to take care of, but for the immediate future I think I had best try to pass that darned smog test first and make my car street-legal ! thanks very much for your great advice so far, OldCadTech
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Hi, I am able to squeeze up the diaphrapgm on the EGR, but the engine keeps running with only a slight reduction in speed. I'm thinking this EGR is no good and needs replacement (together with a new gasket).
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At idle, there is some rapid waver that is plus or minus maybe 0.20 " Hg about the 18.5 " Hg reading. The wavering is less than a quarter inch in either direction, in other words. If that waver is acceptable, the Normal engine picture seems to be what I'm seeing.
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it took a while to locate the right attachment for the big nipple # 91 (brake booster hose fitting) but I finally did it, and here are the results: At a coolant temperature of 207 deg F, after 20 minutes of warming up 1) Vacuum at idle (650 rpm) was a fairly steady 18.5 " Hg 2) Vacuum at 2000 rpm was 21.5 " Hg 3) Vacuum with snapping throttle to about 2000 rpm caused the needle to fall to zero, then quickly jump up to 23 " Hg then go back to the idle vacuum of 18.5" Hg
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Would connecting the vacuum gauge to the # 91 fitting also require a 'T' connection to tap into the line? sorry for the rookie questions
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Hi, I dug around in the garage and discovered I have a Sun brand vacuum gauge that looks very similar to the black one in your picture. Is it okay to simply push the end of the rubber vacuum hose onto the nipple located at 102 ? The hose isn't threaded, it looks like yours.
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Sounds like a good comprehensive plan! So it looks like I should start with checking the vacuum in the throttle body first, correct? I'm almost sure the end of my vacuum gauge is threaded. Is using a 'T' connection my only option? How would I block off the open end of the T, please?
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ok 'scuse my ignorance, I have a vacuum gauge in my toolbox, where would I attach it on the 4.9 liter? And which vacuum condition would indicate a fuel injector problem?
