twigs76

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About twigs76

  • Rank
    Observer (3-9 posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    1997 SLS
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. Dude, Definately the actuator. Take the glove box out and you will see a small metal shaft coming from the air box that is threaded on the end and connected to a little white plastic arm by a clip that it snaps into. This is what contols the blend door for the passenger side. The actuator is the little black control box that controls the little white plastic arm. Either replace the actuator or until you replace it you can rig it to blow cold by uncliping the metal shaft from the white clip and sliding the shaft from right to left into the air box until it stops and the securing it ( i.e. zip ties)this will close of the heat on the passenger side until you get a replacement actuator. Same thing happened to me on vacation on my 97 SLS. I temporarely fixed it until I could get back home, order and replace it.
  2. You are right johnny, it is taking a month of Sunday's to get the kit from Northstar Performance. It impossibleto get someone on the phone and Jake took over a week just to return my phone call. I sure hope these bolts are worth putting up with the total lack of service on Northstar Performance's part. The Pony Express could've delivered these twice buy now, and I live in Texas. lol.
  3. Hey johnny, Have you finished your car yet? If so , I was just wondering how it turned out. Just ordered my head studs from northstar performance on friday. Hope it doesn't take a month to get them. Jake indicated that it was going to ship the following monday, I hope he can back it up.
  4. Thanks, though I am sure it is a head gasket. It steams like a steam locomotive. As for the cold damp mornings, I live in the Texes Panhandle and can't remember the last time we had a damp anything, lol. Have not driven it but from the previous owners house to mine. As for the info on the rear head I plan to use the bolt kit from northstar performance. So I gather you do feel it would be possible to do it in the car? Northstar Performance sells studs - with studs, you cannot do the repair with the engine in the car as you would not be able to get the rear head over the studs for installation without hitting the firewall - there is not enough clearance. With Timeserts and new head bolts, it is possible to do the repair with the engine in the car but I would never try it. There are so many fasteners that are at wierd angles, it is easier to pull the engine and work on it while it is on an engine stand. In fact, once you remove the heads, timing chains, etc., you're 20 mins away from pulling the block anyway and it makes it so much easier to work on with the engine on a stand. You will also want to re-seal the lower end with is not possible with the engine in the car unless you remove the transmission. The machining process generates a LOT of aluminum shavings - you do not want any of that getting into the oil passages. Pulling the engine from the top has its difficulties - there is a bolt that attaches a brace to the rear head that is an absolute SOB to get back on... The brace runs inbetween the pipes of the rear exhaust manifold. Thanks for the help. I am in the process of securing a location with a car lift so that engine removal from underneath will be possible. hopefully with a little luck it will be possible. If not, I guess that I will have to take the long road. One again I appreciate your helpfullness on the subject.
  5. Thanks, though I am sure it is a head gasket. It steams like a steam locomotive. As for the cold damp mornings, I live in the Texes Panhandle and can't remember the last time we had a damp anything, lol. Have not driven it but from the previous owners house to mine. As for the info on the rear head I plan to use the bolt kit from northstar performance. So I gather you do feel it would be possible to do it in the car?
  6. Thanks, Good looking car.
  7. Thank you for your input.
  8. Just bought a 97' SLS with 60,000 miles on for $1000.00. Very nice condition with the exception that I am 100% sure a head gasket has failed due to the steam coming from the exhaust. I have already purchased a complete gasket set. After reading several threads from this forum I am going to wait until I find out if and how many head bolt threads have failed. If I find that there has been a failure I have decided to purchase the suregrip head bolt kit from NorthStar Performance. I guess my biggest question is about engine removal. Is it necessary? If so is it possible to remove engine from the top, or is it easier to remove the engine from the bottom. Also, if there is anyone who has used the suregrip bolt kit from NorthStar perfomance, any input would be appreciated on this subject as well.