Cadillac Jim

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Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. The nominal rolling diameter of your 275/40ZR18 tires is 26.66 inches, which compares to the nominal rolling diameter of factory 225/60WR16 tires of 26.63 inches (actual published for factory Goodyears is 26.6 inches). The difference is negligible, meaning that diameter won't cause fitment issues and the standard gear rations for the 4T80E transmission (3.11, 3.4, 3.71) will work too. Any interference issues will come from width or large negative camber at highest suspension travel. Your new tires are about two inches wider than the stock tires. With the proper offset (the axis of the strut passing through the center of the patch on the front), that's about an inch less clearance inboard and outboard, which may be tight but certainly doable with possible minor mods of the fender liners. Nominal rolling diameter is width*(aspect/100)+(rim size), all converted to inches. (275*(40/100))/25.4+18=26.66.
  2. Power window control problem

    I think that this needs a new thread because it's another car and the diagnosis will be independent of the 2011 problem and solution. First, why doesn't the door open? Can you open it with the handles? Is is stuck, or is the mechanical mechanism stuck? It might make a difference if it's the right or left door. By "passenger" I think you mean the right door (my thinking is that both of them are passenger doors in the back seat, unless you drive your mother-in-law around). In the rear fuse block, there is a 10 Amp fuse marked RRDR MDL. You can try that first. If you are lucky, that just could be your only problem.
  3. Don't blame yourself. Apparently the RS00 was shipped to you in a mode that wouldn't work in your car, and the means of changing the mode to match what your instructions say dosen't seem to be available. The quote you gave for the email from Crimestoppers struck me as having inscrutable comments or possibly information not related to your questions or even the RS00. One thing you might consider is to email Crimestoppers again, with a very short question: "How do I get my RS00 into the mode of accepting three clicks on the GM factory remote 'Lock' button to start the car?" When they come back with something that you can't relate to, or can't figure out how to make things work, then, REPEAT THE QUESTION. As in "Yes, but, how do I get my RS00 into the mode of accepting three clicks on teh GM factory remote 'Lock' button to start the car?" If Crimestoppers has an open forum like Caddyinfo, find it and look for the answer there. If you don't find it, start your own topic there. Report back here and give a link to the thread.
  4. I believe that the instructions on changing the mode of the RS00 to 3 push is key. The instructions on entering the programming mode were for another Crimestoppers unit entirely and don't apply to the RS00; they apparently programmed the remote and the RS00 doesn't have a remote because it uses the car's remote. If the car starts with the key as always, the RS00 LED responds to inputs, then if the RS00 has its starter control wire hooked to the Escalade YEL, LT/GRN or PPL/WHT wire and puts power to that, the Escalade should crank. If the RS00 has its continue-to-run wire hooked to the Escalade PNK wire, and power to that is provided by the RS00 once the Start signal is recognized, the Escalade will continue to run once started. Checking the wiring by looking at the splices and connectors and checking the colors is good, but there is no substitute for a test light or voltmeter to make sure that the actual electrical connections are solid. Without the instructions to guide me on exactly how the RS00 is hooked to the Escalade, here is what I think might be a way to hook switched power wires from the RS00; you need to check (and correct if necessary) instructions from Crimestoppers for intstalling the RS00. The wires to the Fuse Block Left I/P connector C3 terminal A may be YEL to start, terminal C PNK to run; these wires run to the ignition switch. The wires on C1 are past the fuses and may be used; they are terminal A1 PNK and terminal D5 LT GRN. I have to wonder why the RS00 would be shipped in a mode that starts the car when you press Lock once on the remote. That clearly isn't a useful mode. Making it necessary for the installer to change the mode during installation is a huge barrier to DIY installation and doesn't seem to have a valid purpose except to discourage DIY installation. If so, getting through this last step is the key to being done with a successful installation
  5. Without going through the instructions in detail, I would ask if there is a pilot light or LED on the RS00, then getting it to light is the first step. If there is another that lights up or blinks when you press the Lock button on the remote, that is the second thing to look for. Or, a test light or voltmeter on the RS00 wire that connects to the GRY wire from the Escalade should blink when you press the Lock button on the remote. The last thing to check is the starter actuation. I don't have the RS00 instructions available, but looking at the starter schematic for your car, the most logical place to hook in an auxilary starter is either the LT GRN wire on C1 or PPL/WHT wire on C2 of the underhood fuse block. That wire has power from the car only when you turn the key to Start. If the car will start with the key, then putting power to that wire should start the car. There is one more connection, the RS00 must make for the engine to keep running without the key turned to RUN. I'm out of time tonight but I can find it on the schematics tomorrow. The critical wire is the one that lets the car start, the LT GRN or PPL/WHT wire.
  6. Interesting. They say the mode must be changed, but either don't tell you how or give you a way that won't work with the unit you're installing.
  7. The key phrase is "The RS00 does not allow for programming remotes". I was wondering why you wanted to do that but not having read all the instructions for the RS00, I didn't question that. I didn't know that you were trying to use the RS00 in a mode other than the "lock three times" way the instructions talk about. If you somehow got the RS00 into another mode, you need to get it back to operating as intended for your 2002 Escalade, apparently "option 17." The only wire that the RS00 needs to "see" is the solid gray wire to the dirver's door lock actuator. I don't know what the "lock wire in the truck cab" is, or why they mention it. Apparently another unit can program a factory GM remote that has a "start the car" button to operate it. But not the RS00. This is a good thing, because your existing remote probably doesn't have a "start the car" button. Even if it does, the RS00 is designed so that you don't need to use it. The solution to your problem is to use the RS00 in Option 17 mode and install it as per the instructions, using the "lock three times" signal from your existing remote to get the RS00 to start the 2002 Escalade.
  8. If the remotes work including the unlock and Valet functions, and pressing the Valet button 5 times in rapid succession doesn't work, then either the Crimestoppers unit is bad or the wiring is bad. If you have a volt/ohm meter or even just a test light, you can check some things pretty easily. Looking at the GM wiring, these things are pretty constant with year and model: Solid black always means ground. If you find a solid black wire that isn't grounded, you need to check the ground. Solid red always means "always hot" meaning it should have 12 Volts on it even when the key is off. Solid pink always means "hot in start and run." In your car, the solid gray wire is the driver's door unlock actuator signal. This signal operates the auto-start feature. Apparently (check the Crimestoppers instrucionts) the BRN wire coming out of the Body Junction Box (or, Relay Block-Body) (terminal H in connector C6) is the power for the interior parking lights, and is flashed when you press the Valet button. Look in the Crimestoppers manual and identify the Valet signal wire, and check it with a meter or test light to make sure that the Crimestoppers unit is getting the signal when you press the Valet button. This is probalby what the Crimestoppers people will tell you to do.
  9. Unless some of your Escalade wiring is not working because of the previous aftermarket installation, then your Crimestoppers unit isn't working. I would check the battery in the remote before I gave up. And, I would call Crimestoppers before I went to a tech. Amazon lists $150.00 for installation and whoever takes it on is likely to ask more, in part because botched installations are often more trouble than starting fresh even if the problem is a bad connection at a wiring splice; although your work doesn't sound like a botched instillation, that is the first thing that will cross the mind when you go in with customer-installed-not-working electronics. You can also look at the connectors. A common problem with new installations is a pin in a connector pushed into the connector so that the contacts don't quite touch.
  10. You're pressing the Valet button 5 times in rapid succession? If you are, and nothing's happening, I would re-check all the wiring. Look at the instructions and the colors of the wires on both the Crimestoppers and the Escalade sides of each connection. If everything is OK with the wiring, check the battery in the remote. If you still can't get the first step to work, call the Help line for Crimestoppers.
  11. Where, exactly, do things stop working as in the video and instructions? What step are you on? What doesn't happen that is supposed to happen?
  12. Are you using the step-by-step instructions that I posted above? Which step is failing, or stopping you?
  13. What, exactly, is stopping you from getting into the programming mode?
  14. I found a page-by-page manual on and found this" I don't have a list of the 28 programmable options handy. The Crimestoppers web site doesn't seem to have a downloadable PDF manual but they do have a page with videos, including one for programming your unit, that seems compatible with the instrucitons: Scroll down and there are three videos linked at the bottom of the page. One of them is "Programming your remote."
  15. What are you trying to get into the programming mode, the car, or the remote starter? If you are using an remote that works, you don't need to program the car for it again. I looked online to try to identify your unit and get the installation manual. I believe that this is a Crimestoppers RS00-G5 unit. If it's another unit, please get the make and model off the box and post it here.
  16. So, they will use performance measurements to determine restrictor and rev limiter specs so that nobody dominates. Run the tests on bias-ply mud tires.
  17. Keep us posted here. Inquiring minds want to know! And, dialogue during the process of the job, if it runs overnight, can bring up information that can help speed things up for you, and help others that are thinking about the same job and turn up this thread in an Internet search.
  18. Follow the written instructions. Use the solid gray wire in the 2002 Escalade/EXT wiring harness for the actuator signal.
  19. I just checked the 2002 EXT FSM and looked at the schematic for the power door lock actuators, and it seems to be exactly the same as the diagram that I posted for the Escalde on January 6. I think it's the same file on the SI DVD. The PDF file at your link is mostly color photos of connectors with arrows to wires that identify their purpose. From what Logan says, there was a change in the wiring between the 2002 and 2003 model years and the diagrams in the PDF say that the same photos and diagrams apply for all years; this may be true (the PDF file info doesn't address the details that you get in wiring diagrams, just connector wire colors) but I would be careful about using the PDF diagrams from any source outside GM without verifying them against schematics for your car, regardless of model year.
  20. Good to point that out, for the browsers out there; those outnumber the posters by 100 to 1 or better. I don't follow platforms other than the E/K and D, and the CTS, and didn't know where the breaks are in designs.
  21. The diagram and information that I gave are from the FSM for the 2002 Escalade, as provided from the 2011 GM SI DVD 02#2. That doesn't guarantee that it is 100% accurate; nothing is perfect. But it is specific to the 2002 Escalade and I believe that it can be relied upon for that model. OTOH, don't try to use the door actuator wiring diagram I posted abvove for information on other model years...
  22. P500 is the wiring conduit to the driver's door, and you probably want to make your splice to the gray wire closer to the left instrument panel fuse block. The "Fuse Block Left - I/P" is under the dash above the OBD II connector. I don't have an Escalade but since it's a fuse block, you should be able to have reasonably easy access to it.
  23. From the Amazon blurb, the gray wire they are talking about is probably the door lock actuator line. Hitting the factory fob "lock" button puts power to that wire, and three hits is apparently what actuates the starter actuation logic in your accessory. I've attached the schematic that shows the gray wire, which is the one to the driver's door; it's GRY . Others that could work are any of the GRY/BLK wires that lock the other doors and tailgate, but I suspect that personalization of your car's options could affect these doors - possibly not the locking signals but certainly the unlocking signals.
  24. Any engine revision for the Corvette will likely include a horsepower increase. To do that you will need a higher redline and improved breathing, which requires revamping the intake, ports and valves, and exhaust designs. The ECM, cam, fuel injection intake rams, heads, valves, and the exhaust back to the mufflers will not be interchangeable with those of the 6.2 liter engines. If they keep the deck height, the engine weight will be about the same or a little less due to weight savings in the crankshaft. A vibration-free, free-breathing, high-revving engine with a level torque curve can be a real treat to drive with either manual or automatic transmission. The all-aluminum new LT 6.2 liter is a very light engine, only a couple of pounds heavier than the Northstar 4.6 liter, so the weight of the 5.5 liter shouldn't be out of line for its size. And, any difference in weight will not drive chassis tuning is needed for the new engines. Changes in the engine characteristics, of course, will drive chassis tuning, gearing, and driving techniques, all of which seem to have survived the initial learning curve in great style.
  25. I finally did find something on the 5.5 liter. Yes, all the DPi Cadillacs are running the 5.5 liter engine now. The principal difference between it and the 6.2 liter is the stroke, 52 mm, down 10 mm from the older engine. The simplest way to do this is to use a new crankshaft, 5 mm longer rods, and the same deck height. New cam, intake and exhaust tuning, and port shaping in the heads, with a higher red line, can keep the horsepower about the same and spread the torque curve over 13% wider RPM range, making the car easier to drive and even harder to beat. Note that maximum theoretical breathing is proportional to RPM, but engine stresses and vibrations are proportional to the square of the RPM. The pistons, rods, and crankshaft must be about 27% stronger to provide the same reliability margins with 13% higher operating RPM. The amazing thing about this engine, like the previous versions, is how they get the horseower with an OHV engine and not a DOHC configuration. With OHV, not only do you have vibration modes in spring-loaded roller tappets, pushrods, and dual valve springs, but there are mechanical restrictions on port angles and valve/port placement that are relieved with a DOHC arrangement. Then, you have the interesting complexity of VVC with a single camshaft axis in the lifter valley as opposed to separate intake and exhaust camshafts. But you are relived of the multiple issues of three cam chains and an idler sprocket. By using longer rods and a shorter stroke, piston stresses and higher order engine vibration is less than it would be if you dropped the deck height and shortened the rods by scaling the whole engine down. And, you get to keep the intake geometry; the old intakes will fit, and you can simply re-tune for higher RPM. The penalty is, of course, weight. This could be an exceptionally smooth engine for its output. Whenever you re-cast the crank and cams, you have a clean sheet of paper on going to single plane crankshaft and the firing order. Going to a single-plane crankshaft drastically reduces the rotating mass but there is a huge increase in second-order vibration, which is canceled in a dual-plane crankshaft V8; this is the reason that Cadillac went to a dual-plane crank V8 for 1924 and no one has produced a single-plane crank V8 for road and street use since then. The huge crank support strength that is necessary to contain secondary vibrations in a dual plane crank V8 is not the same as that required to hold together a single-plane crank V8, but I suppose that a new design would not be necessary. The motor and transmission supports would be quite different, though. For racing only? I would consider a single-plane crank. Put rubber biscuits in the driver's seat and steering linkage.