Cadillac Jim

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Everything posted by Cadillac Jim

  1. Flasher relay

    I take it from Logan's point made here, that the CHMSL is on the trunk lid on this model, not inside the rear window. Logan is a true authority on external lighting; note the links in his signature block. Unless you need the CHMSL to work for State Inspection, you might consider letting it go for now.
  2. Flasher relay

    The CHMSL is operated by a supply voltage from the BCM. It shares a fuse in the rear fuse block with the back-up lights labeled CHMSL/BCK-UP. It's possible that the stoplight switch or connections aren't working. Do your other stop lights work? The CHMSL in the schematic is a single LED but they are usually a bank of LEDs, and any of them out is a rare occurrence, particularly if they are inside the rear window and the assembly is not exposed to the elements. If none of the stop lights work I would look at the stop light switch and its wiring. At this point I'm convinced that there are scads of Bnnnn DTCs that we don't have.
  3. Flasher relay

    There are two illuminations in the hazard warning switch: the dashboard illumination, which is a bulb that is powered by the dimmed dashboard power and is part of the dash lighting, and an LED that turns on when the hazard warning lights are active. The bulb in the Hazard Warning Switch is powered by the dimmer power for the dashboard. It's brightness is controlled by the interior light dimming. If the car sees daylight in the dashboard ambient light sensor under the rearview mirror at the front center of the dashboard, the lights aren't dimmed. If you put a clipboard over that sensor and wait a few seconds, or at night, the dash and interior lights are dimmed, and you have a control near the headlight switch to control the amount of dimming. If that works, there is no reason that the hazard warning switch illumination should not work too. The LED, which is a lot brigher than the dashboard illumintion bulb, is in the same circuit as the signal to the BCM, a TN (probably tan) wire between the switch and the BCM. If it doesn't light, then either the hazard warnign switch is not connected to the BCM, or the BCM is not powering the switch circuit. Any connection between the hazard warning switch and anything else in the car is through the BCM logic. There is no physical connection between the hazard warning switch and anything other than the BCM (except the dashboard illumination bulb). EXCEPT: the tan wire is on the same conector as the turn signal wires to the BCM, C1, which is a 27-terminal GN (green) connector on the BCM. From my SI DVD: Untitled 1.rtf
  4. Flasher relay

    I see only one HI BEAM relay for both sides, but it powers two separate fuses, one fuse for each side. I do see a note on the schematic, "PCB relay," now that Logan points that out. The fact that it's not a throwaway means to me that it might be a "solid state relay" that uses a type of IGFET with an optical isolator, with the "coil" being an LED and the gate of the IGFET being controlled by a photocell. The LED and photocell are pieces of an opto-electric isolator. These relays are a lot more expensive than mechanical relays but they very rarely go bad. In any case, I would expect that any relay that they put on a non-serviceable PC board is not a go-to replacement item for a failure, like a mechanical relay in a socket. In other words, I think Logan has eliminated the headlight relay as a likely candidate for the problem with the high beams.
  5. Flasher relay

    The car is a 2006 DTS. There are several DTCs, and if Will's code reader shows BCM codes, the fact that there aren't any eliminates the problems that throw codes. Better to go through that and be sure where you are before you start taking things apart, than to change the smart stick, and then, if that doesn't fix it, to have to do it all anyway.
  6. Flasher relay

    That's a very good question, which is why I think checking the electrical things first, before you disable the air bags and pull the steering wheel, is a good idea. The FSM doesn't help me here and I don't have a car to look at handy, but it may be that the wiper stuff is in the stalk itself near the end, and the turn signals and headlight switch stuff is in the box at the base of the stalk. But I don't know. @OldCadTech or others like @BodybyFisher might know better; they have very likely changed the smart sticks on mid-2000's DTSs before.
  7. Flasher relay

    Good news! From the FSM, if you have a column shift, you only have one smart stick. AND, you can change it by just removing the covers on the steering column and removing two screws. Whoops, when I looked at removing the steering column covers, the first step is pulling the steering wheel. This requires that you also remove the tilt lever and the knee bolster. Removing the steering wheel begins with disabling the air bags and removing the air bag module. The air bag module basically contains a small bomb, and it's dangerous to mess with, so we must take this step very seriously. The air bag module is released by finding the access holes on either side of the steering wheel and using a tool to press release buttons in them. Even though the good news is that you don't have to mess with the steering position sensor and its calibration, the tilt and telescoping motors, etc. etc. etc., it's still a bit of a job. I would make sure that the multifunction switch is the problem with electrical testing before I did this job.
  8. Flasher relay

    That means that the computer isn't coming back with any failed tests. The car's computer performs hundreds of tests every few seconds and thousands whenever you drive the car, so that's good news. @OldCadTech, do you think that points a finger at the multifunction switch? @Will, I'll dive back into the FSM and see what the mechanicals in the steering column look like.
  9. Flasher relay

    Will: On my car (a 2011 CTS) the headlights are on the left smart stick and the wipers and turn signals are on the right smart-stick. I don't know if the mechanicals of the two are in the same assembly, but I suspect that they are. Your car is roomier and they may be separate. If you look on the steering column, you should be able to see if both sticks go into the same segment on the steering column; if they do, then it's the same assembly. There are lots of functions in the smart stick assembly. The usual situation when something breaks or wears out is for part of it to get out of joint and malfunction or quit working, and some or all of the rest to be OK. One thing that bothers me is that the turn signals are on their own lights in the front and the stoplights in the rear, while the high beams are on their own circuit. Logic in the BCM should not tie together the turn signals and the high beams. A mechanical problem in the steering column is the closest they get - except in the wiring, where they are on the same connectors. But, then, as you say, so are the wipers and other things that are on either smart stick. It's possible to get out a wiring diagram, remove the covers under the dash, and crawl up there with a voltmeter and check things out. But I'm hoping that your code reader and an OBD code can help save you from that chore, which, unless you have a very bright ten-year-old nearby that can crawl up there for you, is not something I would plan on for recreation. So, your point about the wipers gets me to the obvious: maybe you have two problems. If the no-bright-lights problem is it's own thing, the HI BEAM relay is probably the problem. For the turn signals, I would check fuses. The hazard warning switch has an LED that is turned on when it is on, so that's not likely a problem.
  10. Flasher relay

    I've been browsing through the FSM, which for me is a slow Java document on a DVD, and some of the things I have found: Intellibeam is apparently standard on the 2006 DTS. Intellibeam is implemented by adding the headlight sensor to the inside rear view mirror and additional software in the BCM and in the main computer, where the progammability options and such are displayed and stored on the touch screen. The headlights are operated by the BCM. All the controls go to the BCM, and all the indicator lights are operated by the BCM. There do not seem to be a lot of DTCs about the headlight control circuit. B2580, "Headlight High Beam Control Circuit," is one of them. Repair instructions are, after instructing the tech to check and fix DTC's in general, to check the relay, general power distribution, replace relays, fuses, and even the underhood fuse block as necessary, and, if the BCM doesn't successfully command the high beam relay, to replace the BCM. The tach, speedometer, and all the dash lights, including the turn signal arrows and the Intellibeam indicator, are operated through the car's network by the BCM. The instrument panel cluster is a computer module that is operated by the BCM through the car's network. I do NOT believe that the Intellibeam system will prevent the turn signals from operating, because safety demands that the turn signals work regardless of whether the headlights are on high beam or not. The turn signal switch just sends signals to the BCM. The BCM software does the blinking timing and operates the turn signals and stop lights. The only place where the high beams and turn signals are tied together is in the malfunction switch itself. The OBD codes may help us with determining that for sure. We need to do that before proceeding because changing that switch assembly is a big job and the parts aren't free. Found this GM page on Intellibeam:
  11. Flasher relay

    The first thing I would do is read the OBD codes. If your OnStar is active, you can push the black button and ask them to read the codes back to you. The last time I did that, they offered to e-mail me the codes. Not all codes are available through OnStar, but I think the safety-reatled codes are all available to OnStar. If your OnStar isn't active, Autozone and other auto parts outlets and service people offer OBD code reading services, just make sure that you are getting the BCM codes because some services just read the PCM codes. I'm new to the thread, altered by OldCadTech, so I'll start with 2006 DTS, no bright headlights. The 2006 FSM headlights schematic shows the bright lights controlled by a relay in the underhood fuse block. There is a HI BEAM relay and a LO BEAM relay, both controlled by the BCM. The BCM grounds a relay coil connector to click the relay. Power comes from a wire that goes off the chart, still in the underhood fuse block, so I will say for now that it goes to a MAXIFUSE, one of the 50-Amp fuses. I'll look up that schematic after I'm done with the headlights schematic. The HI BEAM relay provides power to two fuses. You have separate 10 Amp HI BEAM fuses for the left and right headlight. There are two 10 Amp LO BEAM fuses too. You have HID headlights for both high and low beams. Power from the fuses goes to the headlight high beam solenoid and ballast on both sides. Low beam goes to the ballast but no solenoid. From there things go to ground G104. From that, I would say that the muti-function switch, which has your passing lights (pull on the left lever, spring return) and high beam switch (push on the left lever and it moves to high beam position and stays until you pull it back), auto-dim, etc. are controlled by logic in the BCM, not relays in the headlights wiring. Since everything past the high beam relay is duplicated on both sides, it seems that whatever is preventing your high beams from coming on is most likely either the high beam relay or the logic in the BCM or something that affects the logic in the BCM, not in the headlights themselves. The OBD codes would make this clearer. If you have low beam but not high beam, I would find the high beam relay and put a stethoscope on it while someone turns on the key and pulls the multi-function switch to flash the high beams and see of the relay clicks. If it does, the relay contacts are bad. If it doesn't, the relay could still be bad but the BCM logic, or something that affects the BCM logic (like the multi-function switch) is the problem. The headlight switch, multi-function switch, and rear view mirrors are on a separate schematic. Everything goes to the BCM, which controls the headlights. There is a light sensor on the inside rear-view mirror in this schematic. The inside rear-view mirror is actually a module, and the mirror includes the sensor for the auto-dim feature. It talks to the BCM through the car's network, which on your car is the D-GN (probably dark green) wire. So, I would try replacing the high beam relay in the underhood fuse block; that's a $5 part. If that doesn't fix it, I would get the OBD codes and do a diagnosis before buying any more parts.
  12. Panamera Turbo or CTS-V?

    Tires aren't a problem anymore. The Michelin Pilot Sport Plus 3's that I have now wear like Michelins on the Eldorado, and cost a lot less than the originals; I didn't check the current price. I suspect that this holds for the 3rd generation as well as my old 556 hp 2nd generation CTS-V. From the article, I get the impression that the author of this article was a dissenting vote on the Business Insider car of the year selection, preferring the CTS-V.
  13. My DeVille Got Hit

    I would just say no on modifying the title in any way, particularly for something like a door dent.
  14. I love that aftermarket windshield sun shade. Those were quite the accessory in the sun belt during the 1940's and 1950's.
  15. It looks really great, even today. I wonder how that car would look with a spoiler...
  16. Vacuum Leak in Dash - 2002 ETC

    Have you located it yet?
  17. My DeVille Got Hit

    Thank you for getting back to us with the straight skinny, with all important detail. What I was thinking is that the Blue Book Wholesale value is what insurance companies use as a ceiling on compensation, and a salvage title reduces that to zero. What you are telling us is that for older cars in demand or as classics do have BBW value in CA and almost certainly elsewhere, which is news to me. What you say about actual value being better reflected by sources other than Blue Book Wholesale (which is said by Blue Book to be compiled from dealer sources for recent actual prices paid to individuals for similar make and model cars) is, of course, true. Note that BBW is intended as a measure of what to expect of an average sample offered to a dealer (possibly a used car dealer) as trade-in value, and that individual sale price is another number in the Blue Book prices for a car, as is Blue Book Retail, which is what you might expect to pay for the same car at a dealer as opposed to from an individual. But the main point remains mostly unscathed by facts: a salvage title on a 1996 Deville pretty much removes it from the financial spreadsheets of the insurance companies. And, asking to do that to a car for a rear door dent and paint work is unconscionable.
  18. I recall a friend from my high school who put a 1955 Chevy V8 in his 1949 Oldsmobile (huge fastback, as you recall) and it woudln't go over 110 mph or so because the rear wheels would come off the ground. I asked why the Olds V8 didn't run at least as good, and he said that the Chevy V8 was much faster. What I didn't know at the time was that the 1949 Olds V8 was 303 ci but only came with a two-barrel and was rated at 135 hp. The standard 1955 Chevy V8, 265 ci, was rated at 162 hp with the two-barrel, 180 hp with the four-barrel and dual exhausts (and probably different heads), and 195 hp with the "power pack" (4 barrel carb, cam, dual exhausts, very probably different heads and valve sizes). And, it was instantly recognized as tunable. The 1956 Corvette offered the 265 in 210 hp, 225 hp, and 240 hp. But that technology was available to the rich kids, none of whom I knew other than to recognize in the hallways at school.
  19. You are the expert on the requirements and design for your application, which, as I recall, is autocross/gymkhana contests. I would think that total agility contests like that would favor a level car, as you say. I qualify my opinion that the rake is for high speed stability as just that, an opinion. I based it initially on these points: My ETC came with the rake. The car was exactly on the ride height specifications in the FSM (with new tires) throughout its life. My ETC did not come with a spoiler. I don't believe that a factory RPO spoiler was available for the 1997 ETC. The owner's manual states "This car will go 150 mph." Car & Driver timed a 1997 ETC (I believe, it might have been an STS) at 145 mph on their home test track, which has a good straightaway but is not suitable for testing top speed of very fast cars. I'm not at all sure that the ETC body style would be stable above 120 mph without the rake; this is, of course, yet another opinion. The ETC/STS (VIN "9" cars) designed to run with the big dogs on the Autobahn, and the VIN "Y" cars were designed to keep up with traffic (up to 120 mph or 195 kph) . This is from the car trade mags of the time. The throttle response and stability at 100++ certainly supports real-world long-distance driving at those speeds, while dealing with similar-speed traffic and real-world roads that are designed to support such traffic. So says a friend. Now, if I had one to test, and had wheel height sensors available in real time with output available for recording, I could verify the utility of the rake in keeping reasonable weight on all four wheels at speed. Wheel height, with spring rate, translates into weight on the wheel, a point that is used in the PCM/PZM/BCM in traction control and electronic stability control.
  20. I think that the 1/4" rake is intentional for stability and downforce at very high speeds. You won't need it if you stay under about 120 mph. There may be some other benefits.
  21. My DeVille Got Hit

    Web search on "spray max 2k clear coat" turns up lots of sources. Here's Amazon photo that clicks through to their page, price $23 with shipping included (Prime members).
  22. My DeVille Got Hit

    Logan: Looks like you are presenting the Cadillac of solutions here. Thank you for that. I've never seen the activator built into the can and activated separately from the spray. There are lots of lesser solutions available at auto parts stores, hardware stores, hardware departments of Target and WalMart, etc. that offer two spray cans, one to use with a buffer or elbow grease, and a second one to renew the coating. The cans are available separately, and the instructions on the first can say to always use the second can and renew the UV protection, but often the second can is not even on the shelves. I see lots of cars with cataracts out there. I don't think that it's legal to drive at night when they get as bad as a lot of them that I've seen. I wonder if it's legal to drive in the rain, because of compliance with the "wipers on, headlights on" laws.
  23. My DeVille Got Hit

    The headlights on Cadillacs and many other cars are just fine until someone buffs off the hard outer coating. After about a year, they go cloudy. They can be buffed but until the coating is renewed, they will go cloudy again in a few months. The key is to be careful who washes your car, don't have it detailed with a shop that has a mouth-breather buff the car, and if it ever does happen to you, do the two-step treatment that includes renewing the coating. I've thought for years that a good way to get Mercedes, BMW, Lexus and Infiniti drivers to drive a Cadillac is to offer guaranteed headlight renewal. The coating takes time, so they need a loaner...
  24. My DeVille Got Hit

    If I could look at the car, I might be able to fix the oil burning problem. My ETC never burned a drop of oil until the dealer decided to do whatever it took to get me to trade the car. I got it down to a quart every 2000 miles by simply having it serviced somewhere else and using top-notch oil. The first oil change got it from a quart every 100 miles to a quart every 1000 miles, and after the second oil change it dropped to a quart every 2000 miles or better. I changed the oil every 6000 miles and never had to add oil anymore. Oil leaks are another matter. Torquing oil pan bolts is a good thing but you should use a snap-over torque wrench to be safe.