Cadillac Jim

Forum software has an automatic editor that looks for "bad" words, or words that are not family-friendly four our young friends are just learning to read and practicing on the Internet. It turns them into whatever you like. This forum turns them into "*smurf*" which is as good as anything, I guess.

Actually, I think you had to *add* Howe's diesel treatment to the fuel.

I would just get the parts for the car (1996 Seville) by VIN. If the later replacements are round, so be it. If they hand you block aluminum, so be it.

Only a Cadillac can get away with that kind of pink and look GOOD! There was one near my town that I saw around, but it's not here anymore. If I see it again, I will get a photo.

What he said. If there are no Pnnnn codes, look at the throttle position sensor and the idle speed stepping motor.

Use the Pass Temp Up button with the main <Off> button that is the on/off button. Sorry for the confusion. I had only one model that worked that way, and the exact terminology of the buttons changes with the model and the year.

dstone: The first thing to do is to run the OBD codes. You can do it from the A/C buttons. With the key on, press <Off> and <Pass Warmer> together for a few seconds until all the dash lights come on like you just turned on the key, then release both buttons. The car's computer will poll each of the computer modules in the car and report their OBD trouble codes on the driver information center below the speedometer. Write them down and post them back here. The list will end with the prompt "PCM?" You can turn off the key, or press AUTO (push the A/C temperature knob in). If you miss a code, or want to re-run the codes to check your list, press <Off> and the code list will repeat.

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Hey, I keep that around in a text file: Resynchronizing the FOB If you are getting B3108 (Transmitter Synchronization Failure) you may need to resynchronize the fob. From the 1997 FSM, page 9K-5, the process or resynchronizing the RFA with your fob is: Press and hold the TRUNK button and within one second, press and hold the LOCK button. Continue to hold both buttons for approximately seven seconds and then release. If the transmitter was out of synchronization, it will now function properly. Programming the FOB If you are getting B2560 (RKE Message Validation Error) you may need to reprogram the fob. The FSM, page 9K-4, gives this procedure for programming the fobs. It begins with a warning that you *must* program both or you won't succeed in the programming, but my dealer did exactly that once, when I had a bad fob on warranty. But, I wouldn't try it. They say that if you have only one fob, program both fob 1 and fob 2 to it. If you find the other fob later, you can always reprogram so that the car responds to it. I'm going to assume that you have a Digital Cluster (the MPH in digits) and not an analog cluster (conventional needle speedometer with tachometer) because you have a Deville, and I don't think that any 1997 model year Deville used an analog cluster. If you do have an analog cluster, say so and I'll give the procedure for programming it. Here's the process for a digital cluster: 1 Press OFF and WARM on climate control panel simultaneously. The IPC will light all telltales, go blank, and then enter diagnostic mode. 2 Press FAN DOWN to scroll through system until RFA? is displayed, then press FAN UP. 3 Press FAN DOWN until RFA OVERRIDE is displayed, then press FAN UP. 4 NO OVRD RF S00 displayed, then press FAN UP. 5 When PGM FOB1 S01 is displayed, press WARM button, 99 will be displayed in left upper corner of IPC just below odometer. System is now ready to program transmitter. 1 Press and hold the TRUNK button on transmitter. 2 While holding TRUNK button press the LOCK button and hold for one second. 3 Hold both buttons for a total of three seconds. Locks cycle when programming is complete. 4 If transmitter is not programmed within 30 seconds after enering 99 override display, system will default and you must start at step 5 to continue. 6 To program transmitter 2, press FAN UP. Display will show PGM FOB2 S02. 7 Follw steps 5 and 6 to program transmitter. 8 Press RECIRC or RESET to EXIT the system.

The warranty has cash value. It's an insurance policy that covers failures and unplanned repairs. I don't want to give that up. I don't ever plan to do things that are likely to cause failures to my daily driver, warranty or no. It's a car for transportation, not racing. If I have a car for competition, that would be different. For one thing, I would never buy a warranty on a car that I intend to use in competition of any kind because to me that's silly wasted money that could better go into mods and enhancements. But, it's really nice to read about people who take cars just like mine and measure 500+ hp at the wheels, go 0-60 mph in 3.7 seconds, and go the quarter mile in 12.0 seconds at 120 mph. But I don't have to drop the pressure in my rear tires to 28 psi, raise the pressure in the fronts to 50 psi, an then go make time trials on a drag strip, I can simply enjoy my car, knowing that people here do that with exactly the same car. Then, they mod the intake, intercooler, and change the pulleys. Let the good times roll.

Ah, this is something I never heard of: the Magnuson-Moss Act. The Wikipedia article (see the link) is a quick and interesting read. I was far too conservative with the ETC while it was in warranty. Only after it was out of warranty a couple of years did it grow a low-restriction cat, Borlas, Sylvania Silverlight headlights, and lots of other little things. The law was passed in 1975, a time when CP/M 8080 and Z80 based computer vendors were selling branded memory, floppies, HDs, and other upgrades and peripherals at exorbitant prices. Apple still does that when they can with Macs, although I get upgrades for my wife's Mac from Newegg, quite probably thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Act. Lots of vendors of cars and other consumer goods talk like the only parts that will work are theirs, still today. I do recall hearing of warranty issues in the 1950's and 1960's with car's warranties being contested if an oil filter was a Fram, not a Motorcraft/Mopar/AC-Delco or whatever. Even then it didn't stick but it's expensive to fight. Then, I'm clear on my differential, A/C compressor, alternator, and engine/transmission if I get Borlas. In fact, I think that the dealers sell Borlas; I may ask, although I don't know where I would get them or have them installed. Some parts, like the intercooler pump and the bolt-on heat exchanger, are clearly in the exempt domain defined in the Magnuson-Moss Act because they can't cause a failure outside the pump itself because the PCM will simply shut down the boost if the IAT2 gets too high. I don't think that anyone would have a very strong case arguing that a TCU caused a transmission failure, unless it can be shown that it deliberately let the transmission slip for extended periods while under load, did bang-bang shifts that exceeded internal stress limits, overstressed pump pressures, or some other obvious issue not likely seen in a TCU intended for street cars. Most transmission failures are caused by age/wear, defective parts like sprags, pumps and seals, poor maintenance like running with low or out-of-spec fluid, or abuse such as towing or shifting into gear at high RPM. I don't think that re-tuning a factory PCM could cause a failure if its base software and limits are sound, as is the case with GM PCMs and most other manufacturer's internally designed parts. Exceptions are PCMs that allow reprogramming and use of parameters outside the safety range of the engine and transmission, like changing the spark map with the knock sensor disabled, which I don't think is allowable, even with the V-series. I would want a definitive reading on that, though, before I had my PCM reprogrammed by a tuner. Changing the chip, or the ROM, though, is another story. My thinking is that I can drive the car for a couple of years and get to the end of the manufacturer's warranty, then I am free as a bird. Also, I will have a lot better idea of the car's capabilities and limitations, and also on what is out there. Right now, I think the biggest limitation on the car is the tires, and the simplest improvements will be in the intercooler. I especially like Bruce's new find, the fellow who puts the A/C evaporator in the intercooler. But, I would want a whole separate A/C for that - yes, two A/C compressors and condensors, one for the cabin and one for the intercooler. Perhaps, like the A/C compressor clutch letting go under full throttle, the freon can be re-routed under full throttle, but I like 45 F air in the intake all the time, and I like my A/C too.

TJ - if you have one set of parts to drive and another set to put on to have the car worked on, this basically puts you in the position of being accused of fraud if you have a warranty claim. Even if you are using an aftermarket PCM or TCM and you put in a claim when a wheel cracks or the serpentine belt, alternator, A/C compressor, etc. fails, you can lose the warranty and more. So, not for me, no BS, no games, not with this car. If I can afford a car that I can lose, I'll make a hot rod out of it and take it to the strip, etc. I have drawn a bead on a Borla system. They offer a cat-back, but they say that it's for "off-road" use only. Perhaps I should call them and ask them what they mean by that, because the main blurb has all the right words for a street setup, such as "no resonance in the cabin" that would not be appropriate for an off-road only system. Perhaps they mean "barely legal and your wife/husband won't like it" or "when you nail it, everybody knows for two blocks" or some such. My thinking is that intercooler mods that improve efficiency, like a better pump an a more efficient bolt-on heat exchanger, etc. won't affect reliability and thus shouldn't affect warranty, and Bruce has gotten great advantage out of some of these things and plans more.

No, AFAIK the car is stone cold stock. I'm not doing anything that will void the powertrain warranty until it expires. If I had the money to make a hot-rod out of a used CTS-V and the room to house one appropriately, I would consider that for such a car. But this car is my daily driver and our principal household vehicle for everything from road trips to groceries and errands, and I do want the warranty that I paid for with the car, no games, no BS. On the other hand, if a better intercooler pump, Borla exhaust sytem, or some such improves things without voiding the warranty, I'm interested.

I'll be watching. I'm interested in intake/intercooler items that won't void powertrain warranty.

What do you offer for the CTS-V?

I've ridden in Bruce's STS-V and there is no audible supercharger whine unless he invokes boost. The volume of the whine increases with boost. At loudest, it's noticable but not obtrusive, and is quite impressive, which is why Bruce, and I, like it. If you have the stereo on, it won't interfere with the music, although I assure you that if you are invoking boost, your attention will be on the road and the rapidly changing situation, not the radio.

There you go, 500+ hp is low-hanging fruit.

Our Host and Fearless Leader has an STS-V and had done wonders with it. His blog is linked from the main page: http://caddyinfo.com Here's his first blog on this car, about a year ago: http://caddyinfo.com/wordpress/caddyinfo-cadillac-articles/current-cadillac/ Here's Bruce's own board on his 2008 STS-V: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showforum=89 Bruce has done some intercooler and intake mods, and has achieved major gains without compromising reliability. I've ridden in his car and got a CTS-V the same day, and his car drives very much like mine. I'm sure he will be along shortly.

No, it's a a fitting going into the crossover near the thermostat housing, and it has a hose on it. The hose goes to a metal hose that goes under the beauty cover and emerges near the surge tank, where another 3/8" rubber hose connects it to the surge tank. A quick way to check it while the engine is cold is to disconnect the hose at the surge tank and start the car. Coolant should come out the hose freely, but not squirt. If it doesn't, or just drips, the fitting at the crossover is probably clogged.

PCM CURRENT P0135 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1 P1189 Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Switch Circuit P1258 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - above 268°F - Protection Mode Active P1599 Engine Stall or Near Stall Detected ACM B1350 Engine Coolant Over-Temperature SDM B1163 Loss of Serial Data-No Lamp Response U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC U1255 Class 2 Communication Malfunction (Serial Data Line Malfunction) B1327 Vehicle system voltage below 9.0 volts TCS CURRENT C1242 Pump Motor Circuit Open C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled C1255 EBCM Internal Malfunction (ABS/TCS Disabled) IRC B1983 Device Power Circuit Low RFA B3108 Transmitter Synchronization Failure U1300 Class 2 Short to Ground

I don't know the value of the resistor but I think the units you are giving for your resistors is incomplete. Fore example, the "4.7 resistor" leaves me wondering if it is a 4.7K Ohm resistor (4700 Ohms) or a 4.7 Ohm resistor. If the instructions that came with the shock said to use a 2.2K Ohm resistor, the color code should be red-red-red-gold.

Any word about crate engines? That could have been true for the time it happened to Z15 too, even if they were listed, because the network might have been out-of-stock. On an old, low-volume assembly, that can mean a wait of a few months. That happened to me in 2006 when I was rear-ended by a Honda, which scratched my bumper cover, ruined the left bumper shock absorber, and wiped out my exhaust system behind the rear Y, including the tips on the left side. The tips come with the mufflers for the 1997 ETC and the mufflers were out-of-stock at GM, with an estimated wait time of 90 days. That's why it had 2007 STS tips from that time forward.

I found no hits on Snopes for "Oldsmobile" or "Crankshaft" and hits on "Diesel" were not related. I did a web search on "Oldsmobile broken crankshaft" and found only one guy in Chile who put together a home-brew hot-rod Olds 4-4-2 with a bow-tie 350 and somehow the damper wheel bolt stripped out and the damper wheel caught on the frame or whatever and the key gouged a spiral on the crankshaft tip. I couldn't find anything on anyone breaking a crankshaft on *any* car. The guy might have lost the damper wheel and the end of the crankshaft was damaged, like the poor dude in Chile. I've heard of that happening on cars that did not have the damper wheel properly torqued. If the bolt is over-torqued on some cars, the bolt will fail and the damper will come off, and the keyway may be damaged while the damper is loose. If the bolt is under-torqued it can loosen or come out with the same result, only slower and thus more likelihood of keyway damage. 40 years ago I heard that it is possible for an early Chevrolet 235.5 cid straight six (1949-1953 model years) to break the crank between numbers two and three on a standard shift if the damper wheel is broken or frozen up. Apparently a Powerglide torque converter provides enough damping to keep this from happening, or maybe just the standard shift people would wind them up enough to scatter the motor. But I never heard of one that had done it.

Rock Auto lists a selection with prices varying from $20 to $121 each, with the zinger being AC/Delco. Standard Motor Products offers OEM quality at value prices of a lot of items and offers them for $34.