Cadillac Jim

Does the shift lever drive the shift valve in the proper position as shown in the shift indicator? The two missing pictures labeled Object Number 97542/97544 are below: Checking the other parts requires removal and disassembly of the transmission. If the external adjustments, fresh Dexron VI, etc. don't work for you then I would suggest that you commit to a transmission exchange or overhaul. If you do internal automatic transmission work yourself, perhaps someone else can step up here. I do suggest that you be prepared for clean, well lighted indoor workspace with a complete factory overhaul manual for the 4T80E before you start.

Is this with the front wheels off the ground and engine at idle? When the wheels are on the ground and you give it a bit of throttle in Reverse, does the car move forward? Does the car surge against the Park pawl when you give it a bit of throttle in Park? This is the FSM entry for "Forward motion in N: Checks Causes DEFINITION: Forward Motion in Neutral Forward Clutch Housing Feed hole plugged, inspect tower Forward Clutch Piston Jammed Forward Clutch Plates Seized or jammed Forward Clutch Springs Jammed Forward/Coast Clutch Support Hub Holes plugged Manual Valve Mispositioned or stuck Shift Linkage • Mispositioned • Disconnected The only do-it-in-the-driveway DIY check that is listed is to check the shift linkage. The FSM drawing of the cable attachment to the transmission: 1 - where the cable attaches to the transmission. This may be disconnected in your case. 2 - cable holder, with adjustment. The FSM adjustment process follows. Range Selector Lever Cable Adjustment Notice: Adjust the shift control cable only while the transaxle and the gear selector are in NEUTRAL. Failure to do so may cause mis-adjustment. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels. Remove the shift cable terminal from the transmission manual shaft lever pin. Pry on the shift cable terminal at the manual shaft lever pin with an appropriate tool. Prying or pulling up on any other part of the shift cable may result in damage to the shift cable . Fully lift the adjuster lock button. Ensure that the adjuster is free to move. Place the transmission manual shaft lever in (N) Neutral. In order to find (N) Neutral, rotate the lever fully counterclockwise to (P) Park, and then clockwise 2 clicks into (N) Neutral. Place the gear shifter inside the car to the (N) Neutral position. Use the transmission shift indicator on the console to find (N) Neutral. From under the hood, grasp the shift cable terminal and pull it toward the pin on the manual shaft lever. The shift cable adjuster spring should compress as the terminal is moved toward the pin. Attach the pin to the lever by pushing down carefully until it snaps. Do not pull the terminal beyond the pin and then push back. This action could move the shifter out of (N) Neutral. Press the adjuster lock button down flush with the adjuster body. Shift to (P) Park and release the parking brake while applying the service brake. Start the engine and assure all of the indicated gear positions match the vehicle response.

Do you have any OBD codes? Run the codes and post them here.

One last thing - check the routing of the serpentine belt to make sure that it isn't re-routed somehow.

First, I can't believe that you have no codes if the A/C clutch doesn't engage with the A/C on. If the PCM is preventing the A/C from engaging the compressor clutch, there will be a code that tells you why, such as refrigerant pressure or temperature problems. I'm not sure, but if the PCM thinks the compressor is running but the coolant pressure and temperature don't reflect that, you should get a code; someone more experienced in A/C service for your model will know for sure. Make sure that you are using a good code reader that provides Bnnn codes. I believe that OnStar will give you A/C codes but I'm not sure; you could call them and ask if they give you A/C codes. If you aren't sure, go to Autozone or another outfit that reads all your codes for free. Second, if you have a voltmeter or test light, you should be able to work a probe into the contact at the compressor DK GRN wire. If it reads volts when the compressor clutch is supposed to be engaged, the wire is OK. If the clutch doesn't engage when there is battery voltage on the DK GRN wire and the BLK/WH wire is grounded, the clutch is bad, or the safety A/C Pressure Temperature Switch inside the clutch is bad. AC/Delco replaces the clutch and compressor as a unit. But, watch for the belt slipping on the pulley as the cause of the compressor not turning. Third, the A/C compressor relay is a $4 throwaway part, like the fuel pump relay. Rock Auto sells that relay, AC/Delco, for $7.31 There is also a 15 Amp fuse in the underhood fuse block marked AC CLU. The relay is right there on the underhood fuse block and it is also marked AC CLU; there may be a legend on the inside of the cover over the fuse block that tells you which fuse/relay is AC CLU. While you are at it, check the ground BLK/WH wire coming from the compressor clutch for a good connection to ground (use your ohmmeter or a test light).

I don't understand what the codes are that you would want to get with the radio. A new radio comes with interface connections as well as other wiring harness connections, and there are PROMs in the radio that the dealer tech uses the TECH II to store the VIN, the car's options, and other information that the radio's module needs to operate the radio and HVAC controls. Since this EPROM and its contents are security and theft prevention things, the bonded locksmith privileges/passwords for the Tech II are required to do this. Programming a new radio is just not a DIY job. One huge thing in your favor is that, for a trained tech, this is not rocket science. A good tech should be able to program the radio in 20 minutes or some such. Ask the dealer for an estimate for the work; if it's high, shop around. GM's dealer model is to have a lot of dealers so that consumers have a choice. Imports such as BMW, Mercedes, and a lot of other makes have a smaller number of dealers that each have a high volume of cars - but if you don't like what you hear from one, it may be difficult or impractical to talk to a second dealer, or a third. With a Cadillac, if you have a rare or difficult problem with your car, you have the option to find a dealer that is comfortable with the job.

Yeah, it's all true. But it's a powerful anti-theft deterrent, the perps knowing that if they steal your radio it won't ever work, and that if caught with it, it has the VIN inside it to support a nice charge of receiving stolen goods. I think it takes the bonded locksmith features of the Tech II to program modules from scratch. The dealer is best because the tech will have the peculiarities of your make, model, and module handy so that he knows that it needs to have the speaker option, phone, and OnStar options programmed in it too, not just the VIN.

When I bought my 1997 ETC new in late 1997, the radio had poor sensitivity, in that even some local stations would fade occasionally and out-of-town stations were unlistenable or just not strong enough to catch the tuner on "seek." After a few months, it just quit, and the dealer replaced it on warranty with an identical refurbished radio, which was (and still likely is) excellent in every way. It happens. In the 2008 CTS without nav, the radio and the HVAC controls are in the same module. Their testing/codes determined that this module is bad, apparently. The radio in all GM products is programmed with the VIN and the network probably has passwords that need to be negotiated. I don't know how to do this without a Tech II. Anyone? After-hookup procedures for aftermarket radio systems that talk to the car's network will help.

Don't give up if the fuses don't do it. We haven't checked the grounds and connectors yet. A dongle with BlueTooth with included laptop or cell phone application will do the trick. I use OBD Link from ScanTool: https://www.scantool.net/ The included software/app will do to get started. I use the pay version with the GM data add-on. The $80 package, with your existing laptop, will pay for itself in the first 45 minutes of dealer tech time.

I would start with these fuses: DISPLAY NAV MTR fuse, 10 Amp, Underhood fuse block RDO fuse, 15 Amp, Rear fuse block RADIO AMP fuse, 30 Amp, Rear fuse block RDO fuse, 15 Amp, Rear fuse block The rear fuse block is near the battery, through the door on the left side of the trunk against the wheel well. The same fuse, the 15 Amp RDO fuse, supplies power to the displays and to the radio; I listed it for both the display and the radio because it appears on both schematics i the FSM. If that doesn't fix it, I'll look up the locations of the grounds for the radio and post them here, but the next thing I would suggest is to look at the option sticker on the bottom of the spare tire cover and get the factory option numbers for your radio. I took a cell phone picture of that sticker for my car and used that to make a list of all the factory options for my car for future reference. The radio options are of the form U2A, where "A" is one or more of J, K, R, S, T, X, Y, and possibly others UQA or UAS, Bose speaker systems, if you have them. The OBD codes will tell a lot about what is going on. Autozone and others offer a free code reading service. Some of them just read the PCM codes and we need the Body codes to diagnose the radio problems, so ask about that when you go in. Without the OBD codes, all we have is a symptom list. Since the modules record the results of about 2,000 tests of just about everything in the car and store a device trouble code (DTC) when something fails a test, they are invaluable in diagnosing problems. Dealers rely on the OBD codes to provide support for your car.

My multiple threads involve my presence in multiple locations.

Multitasking, like, doing other things besides forums and the computer.

Sorry, I forgot. Too much multiasking.

OK. With the codes, we can zero in on fuses, relays, fans, or wiring.

Jan - Kris has not pulled the heads. He pulled the idler wheel mount for the cam chain idler on the front of the engine. Apparently previous work had not tightened these bolts properly and they had worked loose, to the point that the cam chain idler jammed and locked up the cam chain, which ripped the idler mount off the front of the block. Kris: The Timesert inserts are for the bottoms of the head bolt holes. The factory uses threads directly in the aluminum, with threadlock and sealant that makes the head bolts hard to break loose to remove the heads. Usually the aluminum threads are not re-usable. GM recommends Timsert steel inserts for the head bolt holes. Once these steel inserts are in place, you can re-use them if the heads need to be removed. The stock head bolts work with these inserts. You still should use new head bolts when you put the heads back on the block.

If the timing chain problem is fully solved and we are off to other things, then, yes, we should have another topic.

Sure. Reset the codes, drive it for a day or two, then dump the codes and post them here.

The B2711 tells you the problem detected by the car's theft prevention system. The message on the DIC is a result of that problem. I would start by getting a new key made either at the dealer or at an Ace Hardware that matches the chip resistance in your key. If that doesn't do it, you will need to look at the contacts in the ignition lock. You can troubleshot the interior lights problem by monitoring the B2472 code while you check fuses. First, try making sure that both fuses are good and see if the code goes to HISTORY. If so, and the fuses don't blow again, you are done. First, disconnect both CIG LTR 1 and CIG LTR 2 fuses and see if that fixes the problem, i.e. the B2472 code goes to HISTORY and doesn't go back to CURRENT over a day or two. If so, the problem is with one of the cigar lighter circuits, probably something in the cigar lighter itself, like a gum wrapper or a dime. If it is a cigar lighter, be sure that you find all of them. The Deville with center console (floor shift) has one there, under the radio, one in the front, and one in the rear in the center console, all on CIG LTR 1 fuse. Without the floor center console, it has one in the front, probably in the dashboard. The CIG LTR 2 fuse is for the cigar lighters in the rear doors. If it's not in the cigar lighters, close all the doors and see if the B2472 goes to CURRENT. If so, the short is in the courtesy lights. If not, check the vanity mirror lights first, then all the bulbs in the cabin. A short is probably a broken bulb. You really need a factory shop manual to get this car in shape and maintain it. I'm using the one that I bought when I originally bought my 1997 ETC in October 1997. You can get one on eBay at a reasonable price. I wouldn't worry about the network codes for now so long as they are HISTORY and the module involved is communicating with the rest of the car. Sometimes when modules are using the network a lot the message-passing clashes, like people talking over each other on the phone, and you get a network code that immediately goes to HISTORY. When you get the real problems worked out, then, if you have a persistent network code, we can look for that; it's usually a loose or bad connection (or broken wire) in the network circuit, which uses PPL wires.

PCM P1645 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Solenoid Control Circuit IPC B2711 PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key NO ACM CODES NO SDM CODES NO TCS CODES PZM B0533 Fuel Sensor Open/Shorted To B+ B1552 Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error B1558 BCM EPROM Checksum Error B1971 Inadvertent Power B1983 Device Power Circuit Low B2471 Interior Lamp Fault B2472 Low Beam Fault CURRENT U1128 Loss of Communications with IRC IRC B1771 Cassette tape slow U1255 Invalid or Missing Data for Network Control U1064 Loss of Communications with DIM NO RFA CODES MSM B2116 Rear Vertical Sensor Failed NO MMM CODES The B2472 CURRENT indicates that an interior lamp may be shorted. That would explain the loss of interior lights and the cigar lighters. The rest of the codes are familiar from last time (I didn't check) but are all HISTORY, indicating that they are intermittent things. Some are puzzling, like the B1771, which shouldn't reappear unless you tried to play a casette. There are several Uxxxx codes, indicating that there is a problem with the car's network. The B2711 happens when the contacts to the chip in the key starts to go bad. Eventually you will not be able to start the car. Sometimes a new key is all it takes to fix it, sometimes the steering column needs to be taken apart and the contacts inside replaced. I would prioritize the problems and attack them one at a time.

Yes. when the A/C is ON, the fans should run on low speed continuously. How about a fresh list of OBD codes?

Sounds like the inadvertent power is down. The two fuses to check are the 10 Amp MIRROR fuse and the 50 Amp INDVERT Maxifuse, both in the underhood fuse/relay block. The underhood fuse/relay block is under a plastic cover in front of the strut tower on the driver's side. There is a relay, the INADVERTENT POWER relay, also in the underhood fuse/relay block. I would wonder why a fuse blew, particularly the 50 Amp INDVERT Maxifuse. The Maxifuse replaces fusible links that were used to protect main or high power circuits in older cars and when one of those blows, there us usually a big short circuit somewhere. Now, how DID you solve that last problem, about the cooling fans and the long DTC list?

Congratulations. This story went from a mountain to a molehill and ended with a cruise. Report back after a week or two. Remember break-in precautions! Do we have an award for people who achieve things of this magnitude?

Don't panic at this list: PCM P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset P1258 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - above 268°F - Protection Mode Active P1645 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Solenoid Control Circuit IPC B1552 Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error B2710 PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet B2711 PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key B2750 PASSKey Data Communication Failure B2781 Wrong Resistor After Good ACM B1348 Very Low A/C Refrigerant Pressure SDM B1147 Driver Side Air Bag System Malfunction B1148 Passenger Side Air Bag System Malfunction B1161 Lamp Circuit Failure NO TCS CODES PZM B0533 Fuel Sensor Open/Shorted To B+ B1552 Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error B1558 BCM EPROM Checksum Error B1971 Inadvertent Power B1972 Low Power Driver Fault B1981 Battery Voltage Low B2471 Interior Lamp Fault CURRENT U1128 Loss of Communications with IRC IRC B1171 Internal SDM Failure U1255 Class 2 Communication Malfunction (Serial Data Line Malfunction) U1064 Loss of Communications with DIM NO RFA CODES MSM B2109 Lumbar Aft Switch Failed B2115 Recline Sensor Failed B2116 Rear Vertical Sensor Failed B2117 Horizontal Sensor Failed B2118 Front Vertical Sensor Failed B2119 Lumbar Forward/Aft Sensor Failed B0856 Battery 2 Out of Range B1982 Device Power Circuit High B1656 EEPROM Write Error NO MMM CODES Since ALL of these codes except B2471 Interior Lamp Fault are HISTORY, and you show all the codes for low battery voltage (bold emphasis above), you probably have had battery voltage below 8 or 9 Volts while starting the car recently. You should check the battery and cables, put it on a charger overnight, and reset the codes (see more on this below). Then you drive the car and see which codes come back. If a huge number come back, have the battery checked and make sure that you have a good, fully charged battery and reset the codes. You can reset the codes using the diagnostic mode by continuing past the "CODES?" prompt until you see "RESET CODES?" and the press FAN UP for YES. This has to be done for each module. You can disconnect the battery negative terminal, which will reset nearly all codes, but this will in turn set P0603 and B1552. The only code you can count on is the CURRENT code, B2471 Interior Lamp Fault. The FSM says to check the 10 Amp (red) INT LPS FUSE in the engine compartment fuse/relay center, and the courtesy relay in the trunk compartment relay center #2. That said, I don't see any fan codes.

Just now saw the post. The problem does seem well in-hand. I do agree with BBF and others that you need to work with the dealer that you trust or another mechanic. And, the first thing I would do if the car was mine is get another oil sending unit and ask the service tech to change it with an oil change, which I would schedule as soon as I had the oil sending unit in my hand.

We can continue to work with you on the teardown and diagnosis. You can use the old idler sprocket mounting bracket as a template to make sure that the holes are configured so that the new bolts are centered in the holes and hold the new idler sprocket mounting bracket firmly. This engine has VVT controlled by the ECM so a tiny bit of variation in the position of the holes won't make a measurable difference. Other problems in the heads, etc. will take time but since you are doing the work yourself the cost isn't too high. You have a fine car, so I would keep working on the engine. While the teardown is in progress, you can look online for a recycling yard in Poland, Germany, and other nearby areas that will ship to you. We have some people in Sweden that are active here and they may have some advice on recycling yards and the SRX. Anyone know the year range for full compatibility with the 2006 LH2 Northstar?