JimD

Don't waste any memory space on the 4.7K in a F55. The resistor will vaporize the instant the key hits ON.

The 4.7K Ohm resistor will absolutely not trick the suspension control module on a F55 (Magnaride) equipped vehicle. If someone will bring a functional F55 equipped Cadillac to my driveway for an hour or two, I might be able to come up with a range of resistor values that will work.

With the exception of Louisiana.

The is only one camshaft position sensor. You have several modules reporting code B1327 which translates to "Vehicle system voltage below 9.0 volts". B1327 exists because 9 Volts is a critical voltage level for the internal operation of some (most?) modules. When the system voltage drops below 9 Volts, various modules can and will set codes that are false. In other words, your code list contains errors. Unless you have already done so, diagnosis of B1327 is your first step. Failed battery, discharged battery, failing alternator are a few possibilities. Then you can clear all the codes and take a test drive. When/if the engine stalls, immediately pull off the road without starting the engine and display the codes again. Report all "P" codes here.

Mink oil is not a liquid. Mink oil is a paste that liquifies at body temperature (as in when applying by hand). The most beneficial ingredient in Mink oil is lanolin; the females in your life will love it. To answer your question, a high end shoe retailer should stock Mink oil. Or a shoe/leather repair shop (if you can find one of those).

The original poster's question was answered in post #2.

The AC output could not be used for anything that was designed to operate on 60 Hz. The AC output frequency is going to vary with alternator speed. The alternator output would not be much more than 20 Volts AC. The transformer would step that up to whatever voltage the windshield was designed to operate with. Which raises the question of the physical construction of that transformer. An inductive load (like a transformer) operates at peak efficiency at a specific frequency. But here we have a transformer that will see a wide range of frequencies due to changes in engine speed. I think I know why that heated windshield design did not survive very long as an option.

It does help satisfy my curiosity. Thank you. Very different as far as the external connections are concerned I would say. That is the only example I know of where an automobile accessory is using alternating current from the charging system. In addition to the "normal" direct current output of course.

Not quite. I looked at all 13 posts and did not see a schematic diagram that satisified my curiocity. As usual, the 'opinions' were amusing.

Can someone post a copy of the wiring diagram for an early '90s model alternator and/or heated windshield. I am really curious about this transformer business.

That would be your call. But I would never put 5W anthing oil in a pre 2000 Northstar. Not even if I lived in Barrow, Alaska.

Two thoughts. For your 2002 roller cam-follower engine, Starburst 5W-30 oil is equal to the job. For your 1994 and my 1998 engines, today's Starburst oils are a little short of the zinc (and other things) that were present in oils of the '90s. I do my own oil changes and my solution is to use four quarts of Rotella or Delvac 15W-40 plus three quarts of Starburst 10W-30. The final oil viscosity is approximately 12.8W-35.7. It works for me at 200,000+ miles.

Not even.

No, no, Mike. That "bullet" is the pivot point. Think about what happens when the cam lobe forces the rocker arm down.

Not called a lifter but I would have to look thru the posts from you-know-who to find the name. It's nothing more or less than a stationary pivot point for the rocker. Aftermarket oil additives serve no functional purpose in modern (Starburst} engine oils and are not permitted within 100 yards of my vehicle.

These look like rockers (and rollers) to me.....

You really need to nail down the source of the noise. There is no history of valve train noise with these engines. What you might be hearing is a failing bearing in the water pump belt tensioner idler pulley. Check that end of the engine as the source of the noise. No reason to be timid about the Northstar; it's just another four stroke internal combustion heat machine.

I know I'm late for the party, but "overheating" issues have been beaten to death in this and other Cadillac forums. One question: Are the plastic close-off panels at the top of the condenser/radiator and the bottom from the rear of the bumper cover to the front of the engine cradle in place? The reason I ask is because you said "mainly highway driving". Ram air flow control at highway speeds is important and the close-off panels handle that function.

What follows is opinion only. Based on many years and miles of Northstar operation and maintenace. Water pump cartridges do not fail to pump water; the O rings fail and create (very slow) coolant leaks. Sometimes an O ring leak can be seen on and under the drive pulley shaft and sometimes road draft removes all the evidence. Thermostat failure?? Not in my Northstar experience. Aftermarket cooling system flush chemicals are not for me. While distiiled water and Dexcool is the recommended coolant mix, tap water and Dexcool is a very close 2nd. Universal coolants do not promise to deliver the corrosion inhibitor chemistry included in DexCool labeled products. You measured 99% water in the cooling system? The coolant is sure enough going somewhere that GM did not intend and shame on the owner for adding water.

There are no block drain fittings. The best you can do is remove the bottom trim panel and them remove the drain plug from LH side radiator end panel. A 3/4" socket will fit on the radiator drain plug. To get even close to a 100% coolant change will require draining the radiator 2 or 3 or more times. Why are you replacing the water pump (cartridge) and thermostat?

This is the first time in more than seven years lurking here and cadillacforums.com that anyone has even suggested that a chain "might" break. Even the folks who propagate second and third hand "wisdom" regarding Northstar head gaskets don't speak ill of the timing chains. Common problem indeed!

I am a long time advocate of Mink oil for leather conditioning. All leather products!! The trick is to allow the fabric to absorb the Mink oil for as long as possible; 48 hours is good, 96 hours is better, and xxx hours is even better. IF the fabric appears 'wet' when you cannot wait any longer, simply wipe off the unabsorbed oil with a dry towel. No harm done. A word about cleaning prior to conditioning: my policy is to use only cleaning products I would use on my own skin (Woolite detergent) .

I have no experience with Jake at Northstar Performance. But I have been watching his threads on the other Cadillac board for more than one year and have not seen a negative comment on his services. Take the final diagnostic steps and confirm gasket failure (a head failure is rare). That is going to be a costly proposition. I drive to the general area in Ontario where Jake is located and his shop is approximately 1,125 miles from my driveway in Coweta County. My route is through Cincinnatti, Columbus, Cleveland and Buffalo. At least one night on the road each way plus several nights in London waiting for Jake to do the job. Do not leave the country without a passport! Take a long hard look at shipping; but I can't give you any idea what kind of hassle to expect getting the car in and out of Canada via a commercial trucking company. Keep us informed; I'll bet there are others considering have Jake do the job.

Just a nit-picking little side bar here. The key FOB is not the item being "programmed". The programming exercise provides an opportunity for the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) module in the vehicle to recognize the data stream being transmitted by the key FOB.