winterset

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Everything posted by winterset

  1. A few years ago, we had a member here diagnose the drain to a bad battery cable. A tiny pin hole in the shielding caused the copper wire to corrode, turn green, and cause battery drain. Not sure how. My suggestion is to check both the + and -. Cables for damage.
  2. Try opening up the hood at night, and look under the hood for any flashes. I agree that this might all be solved with new plugs and wires. Did the problem go away when it was dry out, then it rained, and the problem came back?
  3. I purchased a new fob with the remote start button for $23 on eBay. Unlike the ones that came with the new car, this one is painted black aluminum, and not plastic. I followed the procedure of turning the emergency door key 5 times to bring up the key programming menu to add fob 3. Although the fob now works to open doors, and start the car, the remote start button does not function. At least I have a replacement fob.
  4. I can purchase a pair of new oem fobs with the remote start option for as little as $60 on eBay. The remote start kit which is 2 fobs with the remote start button in a box along with what I understand is a code costs $225 on eBay. My question is what exactly is on that piece of paper that makes the fobs so expensive? Is it the same code for all cars, or is it a paper unique to the fobs in the box? I bought my ats new, and at the time of sale the remote start option was verbally $175 which I agreed to, but when I went back a month later, the salesman who I bought the car from had left, and the price ballooned to $450 i am thinking of buying a single fob on eBay for $30, and programming the car to accept the fob, and see if the remote option was already programmed into my car. Maybe that's why it was supposed to be so cheap at the time of purchase - that is it was already programmed for the option. I understand that the car is delivered with the option turned off, but maybe the dealer already programmed it. My car was shipped from another out of state dealer because of the unique color, and options on the ats4 2.0t
  5. I don't think mine leaks, but it either seeps or consumes the ~quart every 1000mi. I drive it very little, and it has been parked mostly inside a garage bay since 2004. The garage floor is still pretty clean under there and I am glad because it was a new house. I think whatever does leak ends up in the alternator though. Although I was able to charge up my AC recently, replacing the seal is purposly being put off till I feel better. I figure adding a fresh quart or three between oil changes has its benefits. I drive about 2000 miles a year except when I took the fl trip, I drove 3000 or 4000 miles that year. I might try a bottle of snake oil next topping off. I would never think of having the engine torn apart to fix my mild issue, as I believe an oil supplement will work. The cam seal will have to wait for me though, but maybe the snake oil will help there a little.
  6. I get 1000 miles per quart. I am not sure if it is mostly leaking or burning out. I perform only mild WOT's due to engine age. I might have a leak at the cam shaft bearing? Behind the harmonic balance?. I believe it was mentioned that it is also a common leak point. in either case, in NOV 2015 with about 110k, I drove nonstop from NY to Miami FL without any issue. I must admit that I do a slight pressure wash on the underside of the engine every 2 years or so. I do not like the smell or thought of bringing a oily engine into the garage bay.
  7. My 1996 deville is about to get its first ac service ever. The last 3 years or so, the system required 1 can of 134a to get running again. I have the tools to vacuum out the system to 0, and all the gauges to perform a refill to specs. Do any of the ac experts on here have any advice or anything else I should do? I take a while to do things, but I like to have lots of time to plan and order any additional parts, etc. btw, what are the specs? How many small cans do I need? Any oil? Should I put dye in just in case I developed a leak? Replace any known parts that break after 20 years of use? (Sensors and not compressors). THANKS?
  8. The 36 degrees is for a short bit on a really hot sunny day with the fan speed on low. Most of the time it is about 42 degrees with the fan on low. With the fan speed on auto, the temp is in the mid lower 40's. I understand that sun sensor on the dash controls how cold to set the air. But it's good to know that it can get that cold if it gets hot outside. I recall hearing that charging up an AC is an art. The investment in this set of low end but good quality tools was well worth the money.
  9. Back in April, I used my vaccum pump and gauges to pull -30 on the system. I let it sit overnight, and no leaks. I then added dye to the system, and as KHE mentioned added 2lbs of 134a. I also used my thermometer probe to monitor the temperature from the vents. So far, the system is working great, and On a hot day, I see temps blowing out of the vents at 36 degrees. I have not connected the gauges up to check the levels of refrigerant, or checked for leaks with my uv flashlight, as I didn't realize how hidden up in the engine the ac compressor was! vaccuum pump and gauges from eBay $79 with free shipping digital ac vent thermometer from eBay $2.00 uv flashlight from eBay $3.00 the dye I got from advanced auto, and it was the can with the ac charge adapter $9.00 the 3 cans of refrigerant cost me ~$18.00 hopefully this charge lasts me 20 years, but with a 20 year old system that was never serviced, I am doubtful. But at least I have the tools to keep it in service.
  10. I am looking at this as an engine concern. Is there coolant in the radiator surge tank (coolant should be about 2 or 3 inches from the top) Does your engine temperature needle ever move? Did this happen suddenly? I am thinking an air pocket from a clogged purge line? One of the symptoms when air is in the coolant is no heat. I just do not understand why the engine temp gauge is at noon from a cold car start. btw, making sure you know to only open the surge tank cap when cold because that is pressurized from the radiator.
  11. From what I understand if you only have the one code, then it is the seals, and this method would not solve anything. but if you have both codes together, then the Solenoid is most likely the cause.
  12. I remember your handle. There are some YouTube videos out there with ways to fix this.
  13. The purple wire is the data line. Check for splices that might be shorting out. Also, any work done recently like a radio, or alarm.
  14. For the oil flicker, if the sensor does not fix it, you can try a bottle of motor honey. Both fixed my flicker that I was plagued with for over 5 years. Once solved, it never came back, and that was about 3 years of having a flicker free car. i wonder if a brake fluid drain and fill from each caliper would help free up the pump?
  15. We were getting a camera error which locked up the hvac, radio, and onstar when present. Then the screen had touch dead spots which prevented some hvac controls, and onstar. Volume touch was not working correctly. Dealer called back, and said he had to order a new unit, and will take 3 days to repair. We have a loaner with Apple car play, and we love it. Wish the 2014 could have been upgraded with that option via software.
  16. Sorry the new wheels did not fix the vibration. Based on the title, I thought you were doing a brake job - and putting shoes on the rear calipers I would have liked to see the photos.
  17. Oops. Yes, I do not have my 2014 ATS4 2.0T in my profile. it is my daughters car. I was looking at getting the remote start for her. I was supposed to get the option for $175 but since I picked up the car Christmas Eve, no one was there to set it up. When I went back a few weeks later to finally have the car prepped, the price changed to $450. I purchased the car new, and I suspect the programming was already done for the option, but I just need the fob with the remote start button. the procedure to program a new fob is very easy, and the car allows up to 4 key fobs per vehicle. I think I am going to purchase a new oem fob for ~$40, and try it out. If it doesn't work I have an extra one. And if I do get the remote start option kit for $206, I will have 5 fobs total. I never had so many for one car.
  18. Why did it take you 13 years to reply? Hope the guy finished his fuel pump fix.
  19. Where on earth are you going to find a car newer than 22 years? Good luck
  20. Also, is any brand of 134a better than the other? I can get the cans for about $5.00 for a 12 oz can. Inter interdynamic, Johnsons, national, and DuPont.
  21. I have my gold keys on a fob that served as my spares and were unused for years. When I went to use them the other day, I had to squeeze the fob, and press hard to get it to work. I was our getting a battery for it when I decided to open it with a dime and scratch the battery contacts, and bend the battery contacts gently out a little. Then I took the circuit board out, and wiped down the button contacts. After I put it back together, I tried it from a distance, and it worked! Compared to my daily fob, this "new" one is a pleasure. It's amazing how when something goes bad over time you just get used to he degrading quality. Maybe the metals oxidized by sitting on the key holder in th garage?
  22. The last thing you want to do is overheat this engine, or have a steam pocket form near the thermostat or water pump. Yes, do not drive the car, and replace the radiator. If it was the original radiator, you did yourself a favor by damaging it. It was questionable as it was. Check your surge tank for leaks or hairline cracks as well.
  23. I am leaning towards some bound up rings where excessive blowby is entering the crankcase and creating excessive pressure causing oil mist to be blown into the intake and thus getting mostly consumed during combustion. Usually people who overfill their crankcase experience this problem. I know additives are not recommended by the manufacturer, but on a 20 year old car, I feel all bets are on for these solvents. I would start by cleaning the intake and pcv, then adding Marvel Mystery oil to the crankcase when it is low. Keep the crankcase 1/2 qt low. At the next oil change, add Motor honey to the crankcase. I suspect if you check your intake, it'll have a thick tar like substance around the throttle body.
  24. If you recently cleaned your intake, check it out, and see if you have sticky deposits all on the throttle body. While you are in there, clean it out again with intake cleaner, then clean and check your PCV.
  25. On many of these cars, the filler tube (the pipe the gas cap screws on to) rusts out somewhere on it's run to the gas tank. You should crawl under there, follow the filler tube, and look for rusted out sections. Also, check the rubber lines that they are all tight. I don't know if it can be as simple as a faulty gas cap. I never heard a hiss or air when I took my gas cap off on my '96.