winterset

If you are using the cassette to hold a wired cartridge to play an ipad, there is a sequence you can follow on your radio to "turn off" the cassette motor & tape jam sensor just for this purpose. I am away so I don't have my owners manual, but is is in the book in the radio section. it also stops the hiss that may be heard. This will definately stop the random eject of a cassette adapter.

KHE is our resident expert. BUT I'll try to relay what I learned from him. those gauges are tricky things & are difficult to get a true reading. seems you might have been a little low on refrigerent (& to make things worse, you let a little more out). what I did when I needed to add, was to clear the code - which lets the compressor at least turn on so it can suck the refrigerent in from the filling can. no need to bypass the sensor. Once the coolant starts getting sucked in, by the time the sensor would have detected it's low, it has already been getting charged.

I believe the Radio is a just one of many symptoms you may have & just don't know yet. Most likely, it's not the cause of anything. After you shut the car down and open the drivers door, can you still put the windows up & down with the power switch? does the condition change when you open the passenger door? I agree that it's probably a stuck RAP relay.

We have seen this before. Just disconnect the ground from the battery for 30 seconds. BTW this might be a good time for you to disconect the + cable also & give it a good cleaning. upon re-connecting everything, the radio should be fine.

THANKS all. you helped me: - verify the mileage. Yes, I have read several places of mileage being in the 30's on a heavy 1978 seville. - Find the first place I can't use WD-40 (the injector pump) - To keep my eyes open for another find. The one I was looking at got away!! Perception is everything isn't it? Yep - as KHE said, Goodwrench Identified all the problems, and in My Opinion bulletprofed the engine.

I have been keeping my eye out for a 1976-1979 Seville. I recently came across one with 15k mi that had a Goodwrench diesel in it. seems the ones that weren't torched for insurance fraud - survived, and GM eventually offered a gas or diesel replacement. a few of the Diesels are still around, usually with less mileage than gas.

I know the late 1970's and early 1980's GM 350 diesels had lots of issues - that can be mechanically tied basically to bolts that were notlong enough, but most importantly - being the engines were new, no one understood the technology. Diesels require: clean fuel (no water to corrode the fuel delivery system) regular maintenance of the fuel filter 2500 mi oil changes Diesel motor oil like rotella head gasket bolts should never be reused (because of stretching) with the ~1984 re-design of the 5.7 and manufactured by Goodwrench and now with an understanding of proper maintenance of a GM diesel, I would like to see if anyone else believes this engine is worthwile? seems the cosensus is this engine can run forever if properly maintained, and it gets super mileage.

Dealership owner was probably behind on a few boat payments & screwed her over.

On the passenger side near the firewall is small length of vaccum hose that (on my car) seems to be getting a little brittle or crumbly. it's unlike any other vaccum hose on the car where they are made of a more rugged/hard plastic material. I'm not sure if that line only get's used when the AC is on, but I's worth checking it's condition for leaks.

Just wanted to add that another consideration in choosing leather conditioner (my opinion) is the smell. The last thing you want to have when getting into your car every morning is a strong soapy smell. if possible take a whiff of the stuff in the store before you buy it. believe me, the smell will be that strong in your car too after the product is applied to the seats.

My head is spinning Reading this, sounds like I would deal with Jake & his solution. unfortunately, I wouldn't know where to bring my car to install his product in NJ. unlink BBF, I do not look forwarded to anything related to this - and hope my threads hold up. BTW, I still suspect some kind of electrical / grounding issue on the block that is causing the bolts to react & fail. - then again that's just me.

Did the low oil pressure warning/flickering light only come on after a high RPM run, followed immediately by the car sitting at idle? or was it on when you were driving? - what were your RPM's when the light came on? Mine only came on after WOT in hot weather. When the RPM was at 625. I cleaned the connectors on the sending unit, and added a little Marvel Mystery oil to the crankcase, and I never saw it again. I am glad to see you are open to input from this board. You will have better results.

Sounds like you are determined to change the pump. As BBF said, the flickering oil light is common as the half seal leak is a issue faced by many on these aging N*'s. As with many issues on these engines, very simple changes to routine maintenance can save you alot of unecessary work and $$. that's the purpose of this board. - you're communicating with many people who have the same engine or older that went thru the same issues you are. - it's worth it to learn from this board, and not just to go ahead and change parts. in either case, please keep us updated on your work so others can learn that someone changed the pump, and it fixed the problem. To date, I have never heard of anyone changing the oil pump to fix this. Seems changing the oil viscosity, the switch, and the O ring fixed the leaky switch, and supressed the flickering oil pressure light.

Northeast (can be Atlantic City as mentioned). I recall there's alot of us in Texas. maybe a spot out there can be good for some of you. - or Las Vegas. We will be separate, but at lease there will be a collective for all. we can post some video of each on youtube or such. I think it'll be tough to get the entire US in a single spot, especially when we all will drive our caddys there. BTW, I typed this, then noticed it was discussed, but I'll send anyway - as I was giving this some thought since BBF's email. We just need to get a date in place for the NE. I'll start, then we can either eliminate, then work to a week, then work to a specific weekend/day. I'll vote specifically for June 10th in Atlantic city. July will probably be tough, as lot's of people plan extended vacations, and later in June people tend to have graduations & such. Also, driving down to AC in early June should have less traffic than July/August.