98eldo32v

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About 98eldo32v

  • Rank
    Fanatic (50+ posts)

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    98 eldorado
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)
  1. I am pretty sure it has not been attempted. You might send an email to the link I provided above and see if they would be helpful. Let us know what you find out will do... thanks for the link..
  2. my quad four is an interference engine and has valve reliefs in the pistons also. the timing on that engine can be altered. The question is can it be done to the northstar too. I suppose no one has attempted it yet.....
  3. Well, I'm sitting here thinking about my Eldo. I know I'm going to eventually purchase and install Northstar Performance's stud kit, but it just dawned on me.... Has anyone advanced or retarded the cams on these motors to extract more power? My 93 quad 4 project (which I'm still working on), I know you could advance the intake cam +2 degrees, and retard the exhaust -2 degrees according to olds rocket parts. They used to sell the sprockets, but I can't seem to find them. I was just wondering if the same technique could be applied to the Northstar........
  4. Thanks. If you look at picture #4. Left of the letter "C" in cadillac, there is a slightly noticeable "s" shaped mark that used to be a crack, but you REALLY have to look hard to find it. Overall, I'm happy with the results. I plan to redo the shift bezel. I'll probably revise the refinishing process as I get better with doing the panels.
  5. here is the rest. http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/98eldo32v/eldorado%20dash%20trim%20refinish/Picture002.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/98eldo32v/eldorado%20dash%20trim%20refinish/Picture003.jpg http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/98eldo32v/eldorado%20dash%20trim%20refinish/Picture004.jpg
  6. this is the link to the pictures of the dash piece http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af220/98eldo32v/eldorado%20dash%20trim%20refinish/Picture001.jpg
  7. Well, as the first intial coat of polyurethane dries on the shifter bezel here are some items you will need to attempt refinish. single edge razor blades miniwax fast drying polyurethane (clear gloss) lint free cloth/rags miniwax wood finish stain marker. (I used 2716 dark walnut. worked great) steel wool(coarse, medium and fine) If refinishing the right side a/c vent panel, remove the vents completely if possible from the wood. That means vents and housings, it'll be easier to work with and have a cleaner look. Take the razor blade and scratch along the top of the crack in the same direction of the crack. Then, take the razor blade and run 45 degrees across the crack. Do this a few times until the crack can't be felt by your finger nail. Repeat the razor blade process for all cracks in the wood. Wipe down wood with the lint free cloth that is slightly damp with water. Let the panel dry. Inspect all known areas that were cracked, if the crack now looks a little "ashy", it's ok. Wipe it down again,let dry. Take the steel wool (coarse) and sand the panel in the direction of the wood grain. DO NOT SAND AGAINST THE GRAIN. Sand in long even strokes if possible, don't skimp on the edges. Not too rough, but enough to rough up the surface for the polyurethane to stick to. (wipe down) At this point, you have to make sure your hands are clean and are not oily because that will end up on the wood surface wherever you touch. Take a piece of paper towel, dampen it with water and add a drop or two of dish washing soap. (You don't want the panel sudsy, just enough soap to get it clean)Wipe the panel down. Let dry. Take the wood stain marker and trace over all cracks in the panel. Let the marker stain semi dry, wipe excess stain off with slightly dampened paper towel. Let dry. Take another piece of paper towl dampened with water only, wipe the panel down. Let the panel dry. Take your CLEAN lint free cloth and completley wipe the panel down any and everywhere you plan to spray polyurethane. Set up where ever you can to spray the polyurethane, but have plenty of ventilation and keep dust to a minimum. Adjust the spary nozzle to what suits you best and the direction that you are spraying in. Follow the directions on the can, they are very good. YOU ARE GOING TO BE APPLYING MULTIPLE COATS. DON'T APPLY ANY HEAVY COATS, AVOID RUNS IF POSSIBLE, IT JUST ADDS TO SANDING TIME. After the first coat is semi dry, look at the panel with some decent lighting. Do you see sand marks? Do you see runs or spots the polyurethane didn't adhere to? IT'S OK. Let the coating dry at least 8-12 hours, depending on the temperaure you sprayed in and how heavy you sprayed will vary the drying time. Any flaws noticed after the first coat will be addressed now. Resand with steel wool in the direction of the grain, using more or less pressure to get the desired results. Use the stain marker to fill in the cracks to avoid showing the flawed spot. Wipe excess off. Follow the wipe down procedure stated above to avoid excess dirt sticking in the polyurethane. Reapply the polyurethane. When you have applied the first coat and it's semi dry after 15 mins, check the surface. Are there any flaws? If not, apply a light even second coat. Don't mind the cracks. If there are flaws, let dry, resand and stain the cracks again. This process of spraying and checking will go on until you have almost a perfect finish. If you had no flaws after the second coat has dried, use medium steel wool to lightly scuff the surface. Re-stain all cracks, wipe excess off again, wipe down with dampened lint free cloth, let dry. Apply third coat. By now you will see that stain and the polyurethane are filling in the cracks in the wood. Let third coat dry, resand lightly with medium steel wool, apply stain if needed to fill crack. (The polyurethane should be filling the cracks by now if it has been applied correctly). When you feel what should be the final coat, spray a nice even flowing coat of polyurethane across the surface, avoiding runs or sags. Whatever lint that my unfortunately land in the surface can be rubbed out with the fine steel wool and the surfcae polished once it has dried. How many cans of urethane will be used will be dependant on how big the area is to be repaired, How many mistake one makes in refinishing and how thick you want to lay it on. PLEASE take your time, this won't be a one day project. Good luck
  8. well, I just received a wood shifter plate for my eldorado. Looks nice, but the finish has some cracks in it too. Looks like wood class 101 has resumed.....
  9. Body, how do I link the photos to here? Thanks
  10. sorry, guys and gals. I've been away with a cold the past few days. I just sprayed the final coat of polyurethane on. I saw a few dust bunnies that I'll have to polish out. Yet, after numerous sanding with steel wool pads and coats of poly urethane. I'm pleased with the results. I"m going to take pictures of the finished producket and post them on photo bucket. See you soon.
  11. I haven't gone to photobucket yet. I haven't forgotten, but I have to say the finished product looks very good.....
  12. Thanks!!! will do later on today.....
  13. It could be dirty. I've never cleaned it so that's a possibility. I'll check that out before I get a new TPS. As far as the theft system problem I haven't made any progress yet. I wish I could stand down on the issue myself but I don't think that's gonna happen soon. Anyways, Thanks for the help Have you solved this mystery yet with the lack of starting?
  14. I attempted to upload a photo of my trim piece, but I received an error message stating that the picture was too big. I have to figure out how to change the setting on the camera or resize it. Hang tight.....