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CarlaValentine

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CarlaValentine last won the day on January 30 2010

CarlaValentine had the most liked content!

About CarlaValentine

  • Birthday 05/01/1985

Previous Fields

  • Car Model and Year
    2005 DeVille 36k miles
  • Engine
    Northstar 4.6L V8 (LD8/L37)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Oneida, NY
  • Interests
    Cars, 4 Wheeling, Gaming, Reading, Writing, Music, Photography, My kids, and trying to make the best out of whatever life throws at me.

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CarlaValentine's Achievements

  1. I think it's time I go to bed. 6:00 comes early....

  2. I just now realized you posted a comment on my profile, Lol. I hate the winter. At least the weather is warming up here now. After that snowstorm a couple weeks ago, it's nice to see the snow finally melting away. Hopefully it stays gone this time!

  3. I'm sick of cold and snow too. I am a sub contractor for snow removal. There is nothing like plowing snow for 24 hours then have to plow your on driveway. I don't like taking my Eldo out of the garage because it gets so dirty but it's fun to drive. One month to Spring!!!!

  4. I can't direct you as far as the CPS goes, or replacing the PCM to try and solve your problem. I can however say with utmost certainty that if there were a problem with your alternator, it would cause more problems than just the erratic gauges and such. Your voltage would be low, and it's very likely that the car wouldn't start or run properly, if at all. The alternator provides a constant charge to your battery, which in turn powers the electrical systems in the car. Without that charge, the electrical systems would fail and the car would cease to run. Judging by the fact that you say the charge is reading 14 V, I would say the alternator is fine.
  5. I agree that a bad ground could also be the problem here, but it was said that a coating of silicone dielectric grease was sprayed on the fuse block contacts for all terminals. A coating normally means quite a bit, and if any of the fuses don't fit good and tight into their connectors then this could create a conduction problem. You are right though, he should also check all grounds.
  6. Quote "by coil I mean the ignition coil that sits inside the top portion of the distributor cap" Oops, yeah I forgot about that. Guess I'm just too used to coil referring to the coils on newer ignition systems.
  7. I assumed when posting this, that you sprayed the dielectric grease on the fuse panels while you had the fuses removed. If so, then that is most likely the problem. If the fuses were in the panel when you sprayed it, then it may not be. I apologize for assuming. If my assumption is correct however, the only thing I have come up with for cleaning them is to pull the fuses and wipe the grease off them with a cloth or rag, and try to wipe what you can out of the fuse panel. If you can't get all of it, it shouldn't be too big a deal. When you put the fuses back in they should be able to make a good contact as long as there is a minimal amount of the grease for them to have to "break through" to get a good connection.
  8. After doing some thinking and some research, I think I may have found your problem. Dielectric grease is intended for SEALING electrical connections and protecting them from moisture and corrosion. It is, for the most part, non-conductive. By spraying this on your fuse block contacts, you have essentially made them non-conductive. As far as finding a solution for cleaning it out, I'm still working on that one. I will let you know if and when I come up with something. Also, another question. You said, "The only other maintenance I did was change out the distributor, rotor, coil, wires, and plugs with new ones." Most cars I have seen have either a Distributor and rotor, OR a coil, but not both. Are you really sure your car has all 3?
  9. Did you disconnect the battery before you sprayed everything with contact cleaner?
  10. E047= IPC - PCM data problem (there is a communication problem between your IPC and your PCM. This seems a likely culprit for your problems) E052= PCM memory reset (this will happen any time you disconnect your battery or pull the PCM fuse) E091= PRNDL switch problem (trans-axle range switch problem) I022= Panel dimming switch pot circuit (something is causing a problem with your dash light dimmer switch) I039= Loss of Road Sensing Suspension Data I052= Keep alive memory error I056= Instrument panel cluster EEPROM error (I believe this is a PCM related problem) R033= Steering diode shorted in Arming sensor ECM?= your car displays this after displaying all codes. This is your Diagnostics Data display mode. I am going to make an educated guess based on what I am seeing here and say that I believe there is something wrong with your PCM. I am also going to say that I personally don't believe just replacing it will solve your problems unless you can figure out what screwed it up in the first place. I wish I could give you a place to start looking for problems, but I'm really not sure. It's hard for me to say without knowing exactly what you did when you were cleaning everything. If you can, try to give as good a description as possible. I hope someone else will chime in on this with something a little more helpful. I have given all the information I can think of off the top of my head.
  11. Then I would say there's a good chance something got messed up in the process of you cleaning everything. Start by running your DTC's and posting them, as mentioned before. How and with what did you clean everything?
  12. Quote "I don't see how it would affect the vehicle negatively to clean electrical connections?" It wouldn't unless you damaged something in the process, but as long as you are careful, then that's pretty unlikely. Was this happening prior to you cleaning everything? Or did it start happening after that?
  13. Even if they are history codes, you should still post them and consider them as probable cause to your issues. History only means that the code was not set since the last time the ignition was turned on, meaning it could be from you parking your car 5 minutes ago, but it's not there when you start it now. Codes would be a very good place to start. When you checked the fuses, did you notice any kind of moisture or corrosion on or anywhere near the fuses or the fuse panels? Both of these can cause problems with the electrical signals. Also check under and around your dash and IPC for any moisture or water. You should also check your battery cables to make sure they are securely connected and free of any corrosion. These cars NEED a good battery connection. I have had this stressed to me many times over. If you can access your voltage reading on the driver information center while the car is running, you should check to be sure it is within normal range as well. Normal range should be between about 13.8 and 14.5 (according to my manual). I would really start with rechecking your codes and posting them here though.
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