rockfangd

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Everything posted by rockfangd

  1. IIRC they are clipped on from behind. GM used a few different setups, some have pins that the plastic clips lock into. I will have to look into it
  2. Thank you. I figured. I found a nice video on youtube on how to repair these horns. I have done one so far, cant wait to do them all and see how well they work. It may be that there was only one left working that is intermittent. I should find out when i install one of them. 4 horns, thats incredible. Some had 6. Surely a thing of the past
  3. Hi All. Tired of the horn issues on my 97 D'elegance. I have located 3 horns. 1 on the driver side, 2 on the passenger side. I will have to check to see what notes they are. I want to rebuild all of the horns but am not sure where the fourth is located. Maybe It is separate from the others in the fender or something. Anyone know? When they work they seem fine, but when they dont the relay just clicks. More than likely it was caused by the lovely airbag contact issue that used to make the horns blare for no apparent reason. I seem to have that issue resolved (I hope)
  4. Aaw. It is no surprise what stupidity causes. I hope you get it fixed. It sucks when the quarter gets hit. Does the door open and close? If so you may have gotten really lucky. I worry all the time with my 2 caddys because it is alot of time, and work to keep them nice .(Especially in NY) And all it takes is one person to mess it up
  5. The fuel gauge issue is caused by the feelers on the sending unit breaking off or wearing out. Replace the fuel pump module and that should resolve the issue. No access in the trunk on the 99. Sadly. But not a bad job to do if the tank is near empty. Not a bad idea to replace the pump unit anyway as that generation was common to burning up the pump plug on top of the sender. I have done many of them
  6. Lol. Cool LTD Wagon. Looks like the one my grandparents had. Boy we did some camping in it
  7. The oil level is not causing your stall issue. The oil light is coming on because the engine has stalled. Unrelated, but has the coolant been changed? If not I would do it ASAP. I would think your stalling may be a sticking EGR. That would be your shutter between 30-49 mph also. Not bad to clean out. ! of the 2 bolts is held down by the fuel rail. I usually pull the rail, replace all of the o-rings at the base of the injectors, dab of oil around them. Replace the egr valve gasket, clean out the valve (do not turn it upside down with cleaner in it.) Make sure the torx part spins freely and the valve pushes in and comes back out on its own. Check the egr passages closely. they may be plugged. 8 miles a day is not good for one of these as it is not ever really getting a chance to get fully heated up. those coolant temps seem a little high also. Again why I mentioned replacing it. My Northstars run around 196 all the time even on 80* days. No more than 205 ish idling in traffic on a hotter day Welcome To CaddyInfo Forum
  8. 5 torx bolts IIRC if you are talking about removing the EBTCM from the Valve assembly
  9. How is the car running? Usually both of those codes are related to the throttle body plenum boot. (the seal between the TB and intake) It may look good up top but will leak at the bottom.
  10. Remember it takes 3 cycles of the key to get the light to go out. that is what mine does. I would suggest unplugging the plug from the EBTCM and cleaning the pins and terminals. If that and the above test does not show anything positive and the code keeps returning you likely need the replace the EBTCM. It is located underneath the air filter box on the driver side front. It is mounted to the front of the subframe
  11. wish I had seen this before but when you try to actuate the remote start does the IPC tell you that it has been disabled? IIRC you have to push lock, then remote start
  12. Was going to suggest vacuum leak, glad you got it. Sure sounded like a leak. That idle was too high. your idle now is normal
  13. So to update this. I may have figured a way around things to get the horn buttons working. I may have to start a new thread on it though. I will post my fix with photos once it is done and hopefully works
  14. Hi all. I am looking for the cancelling cam for my 1997 Deville. I can find up to 1996 but not 1997. Not sure if it is different in 97. I dont want to take column apart til I know I have the right part. My horn is not working again and I am sure the clip broke off the cam
  15. Glad you changed the filter. Get that unknown fuel out of there ASAP. I would run higher octane fuel in it. I run a minimum of 91 in all I own. that ethanol fuel is not good, even if it sits for a month, it is even worse if the can has sun hitting it. drive it like you stole it. Once you think you have it cleared up disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes to reset all parameters so that it can relearn fuel trims etc...
  16. Hi all. Just curious if anyone else has changed these. Part numbers are 3538757 upper insulator (available through GM (for now) 25678603 lower insulator (discontinued by GM) they are present on the 92-02 eldo 94-99 Deville 92-97 Seville I have changed 3 sets of them on all of mine and have 1 more set to do on my 97 Seville. These are sandwiched between the body and suspension in the rear, and there is one bolt that holds it together with the smaller part at the bottom. Note the picture at the bottom left. The plate rots out and that part of the bushing falls out. They are not too awful to change, the harder side being the driver side because the fuel filler tube is in the way. the back end has to be picked up to let the suspension hang. Once both bolts are removed the suspension will pivot at the front. I coat the body and the suspension while I am right there. I am changing my 1997 Seville ones because I am putting a new compressor in and although not rotted I may as well change them.
  17. Sorry but worst design ever. I call that poor planning. I replace both of my Nissan filters annually and have done many more, but where GM put those is a sin. If you didnt know you would never guess it even had them. How have you confirmed the evaporator is the cause? They do fail but pretty rarely
  18. Welcome to CaddyInfo. I would be checking your fuel pressure. 47-53 psi IIRC
  19. so good news and bad news. I replaced the cancelling cam kit, and the steering wheel. Love the wheel. Horn is still not really working though, GM had a bad run of airbags around mid 90s and it sucks. The original one used to blow randomly, I had a spare one from my 96 and that one barely works, Cant win. Cant buy one, (I have tried) GM did recall some but I dont think that would do me any good now. I think the only thing I can do is find a 98 or 99 and disassemble the pad from the airbag and reassemble it into mine. Hate to do it but not sure what else to do. When I had my 96 I put a 98 one in that I got lucky enough to get and it never gave me another issue. I need to do that again
  20. More than likely that is what I did when I installed it, but that doesn't mean it didnt already have too much. Is it possible to do it without removing it... Hmm
  21. Hi all. I had to replace the ac compressor, orifice tube, and a few other parts related with the AC on my 1997 Deville. It blows cold and works good if driven daily, But if the car sits for a few days and I turn the AC on the compressor makes a noise that does not sound good. Sounds like it is straining for a few seconds, then all is fine. I am thinking maybe there is too much oil in the system.. Does it seem like I have the right idea. Only reason why I think that is because it does not do it unless the car sits for more than a day or so. Before I discharge it and check the oil I figured I would see if it sounds familiar to anyone else. Thanks
  22. I use NOS any time I can. I have found Delco parts that were rebranded, most coming from Korea or China. Welcome to CaddyInfo.
  23. Sharp looking touring coupe