rockfangd

Just wanted to share this Gem I came across. Wish I could entertain it. Absolutely beautiful. A work of art 

https://utica.craigslist.org/cto/d/herkimer-1972-cadillac-eldorado/7688205115.html

Excellent to hear. The senders are a pain to get in and out, mainly if it is a plastic tank. 

Can you try something for me. Under the dash right below the column is a fuseholder with 2 2 amp fuses (iirc) in it. Can you remove the fuses.

Once removed verify if the horn still works and the airbag light is normal. I do believe the fuses are specifically for the steering wheel controls. 

You can't miss  the fuses. They hang down just below the steering column. Not hidden by anything other than the hush panel

Well it is fixed. Hopefully for good. Found upper hanger mount was bent, y pipe was tweaked. I am grateful Summit had a tip. Pipe looks very cheap but the tips are perfect. Also very grateful nothing else got damaged. What exactly ripped it off I will never know, but the muffler was destroyed. I will also say kudos to the Dynomax mufflers quality. No rust and well built. 

Thank You for all that helped me source what I needed. 

I will find out which wires they are at the base of the column. Pretty sure it goes to the large plug. I do not believe the wires go to the radio. Likely to the IPC. I will post them as soon as I find them. There may be a common ground to all of them that you can cut. 

I looked at the column I have tonight and unfortunately I stole the clockspring for something else. I have the stuff, Wheel, clockspring, If I could find the time to look for it I would gladly send pics. The back of the wheel shows right where the SWRC controls plug into the wheel and to the clockspring

Disconnect the battery. 4 torx bolts hold the airbag onto the wheel from behind. Technically you can work behind the airbag by just carefully setting it down, but I prefer to unplug it and set it aside so it does not pull on wires.

You will see the black plug at the bottom of the wheel in the opening. It plugs in there and goes to each side SWRC

If you want to proceed farther to the clockspring there is some tidbits below.

Also here is a video that should help greatly. 

Once the airbag is free there is one or 2 plugs depending on the year. (yellow connector)

Unplug the horn plug by pushing in slightly and turning counter clockwise. Use caution as the clip is commonly broken, and does break rather easily. (if it breaks horn will not work). Remove the black wire from the threaded hole (press the clip and slide out

Once airbag is out of the way it gets a little easier. 

Center the steering wheel. You will see a little groove in the top of the shaft to show shaft is on center. I always mark wheel and shaft anyway

Remove the nut that holds the steering wheel onto the shaft. 21mm I believe.

Use a wheel puller to pull the wheel off the shaft. You will s

Well Thank You again to Logan for pointing me in a right direction. I miraculously found a tailpipe based on the AP exhaust diagram. Discontinued of course, but somehow I managed to find it on Summit Racing. Says it is the last one so I am praying they actually have it. Was on clearance. Found it nowhere else at all. Listed for 95-97 Seville only

Well I inspected under the car today and all looks ok except the mount behind the bumper. I removed and straightened it. So nice that things come apart unlike all season vehicles. It is looking like I am going to have to repair tips the best I can until I might be able to find a set someday. Although I am grateful there seems to be no damage I regret how difficult it can be to find parts for it. 

Hi All. 

I need a set of dual tip exhaust tips (from outlet of mufflers to tips) for 1996-1997 Seville.

I really need the left one but if someone comes across both I would be very grateful

Thank You so much Logan. For some reason these show up to 1994 Seville. No idea what the difference would be between 94 and 97 as the body is the same. I will have to try to find specs to compare. So weird. Nothing listed for my year but can find older...

I kind of see a difference. My year they have a Y at the center. The 94 looks like the right muffler was an after thought. Pipe goes to the left one and right one it teed into left pipe. 

Wow. Thank you so much. I have no idea how you found that. Sadly it is the wrong side. This one is the right side

So this year is not such a great year. Been not having the greatest luck. 

We had bad weather tonight and I got caught in it. Part of a tree hit under my Seville and ripped my left muffler clean off. I was on the highway going less than the speed limit (road conditions). I had to wait to pull over because of the traffic. I found no other damage underneath yet but the muffler is destroyed. My tips were near mint. When I pulled over to check it out of course someone ran it over hauling *smurf*. 

I am so over this year. I have no idea if I am going to be able to find another clean set of tips. I have to try to reorder another muffler. I was intending on putting it in a car show this weekend but not anymore. 

If anyone knows of a decent set of exhaust tips from a 1992-02 Eldorado, 1992-1997 Seville please let me know.

Thanks all

I do recall you had issues with these switches. Does the horn work properly? Try it at multiple steering positions. Just to see if the clockspring itself may have failed.

The steering wheel controls plug into the clockspring. Somewhere I have those switches, a spare column (console shift though) that part would not matter. I will try and have a look at my column and snap some pics to send you. You have a resistance problem somewhere that is causing the controls to act weird. 

It will likely take a few days for me to look at my column but I will post once I do.

Every time I see your 96 it makes me miss mine. Still my favorite year

On 8/28/2023 at 9:27 PM, rockfangd said:

Need to go back and look at pin D. Yellow/Black. Check for negative when key is on

Check for negative (-) when key is on KOEO. The signal comes from the instrument cluster

Can't help much with the radio. But I assume it worked before the no start happened? If you can post a picture of what the radio plugs into in the dash. Not sure if it utilized the original blue plug or if they ran new wires. 

 We know pin B at the relay is 12v. 

E is irrelevant at the moment as we know when you jump B to E it cranks.

Need to go back and look at pin D. Yellow/Black. Check for negative when key is on

Attached is a little reading regarding the Passlock system. I hope you can read it. I got it off my other computer.

Typically there is a message sent from the PCM back to the IPC(cluster) if the Passlock trips during key cycle. Fuel and spark enable come from the PCM. Enable signal is sent from the IPC to the PCM, PCM then outputs, either fuel and spark, or a error message back to the IPC. I hope this helps

Of course. That's fine, just different diagnostics as they work entirely different from the original. Original is powered by datalink. Aftermarket is powered by battery and ignition. 

Not sure how the radio is wired in, if it actually uses the datalink or not. If it did and there was a datalink issue it would be related. If it does not then it is likely not related unless the power source is related. 

Ok so lets go back to the diagrams that Logan shared. Thank You Logan. I was just going to post the same diagrams.

Have you verified proper voltage and ground on both the theft deterrent relay and the start enable relay? 

If this was Passlock related you would be missing input from the instrument cluster Yellow/black at the Theft Deterrent relay Pin D. Should be negative (ground iirc). This is just the cranking portion, not related to the fuel and spark portion.

Being you have 12v at pin F that tells me it is seeing Park/ Neutral.

If you jumped pin B to pin E then that shows you have power from the maxifuse 1, and good trigger wire to the starter.

Lets start here. See if you are missing any of the signals I posted. Can go farther once we know a little more 

Aftermarket... That changes things for diagnosing that issue. That is a big word when it comes to these. There should be a fuse in the back of that one. No idea how they made it work though. I never put one in any of mine because of the headaches involved.

No fuse behind radio.

I am pretty sure radio fuse is in trunk. Security light sounds normal. Flashing when off just means it has the anti-theft(alarm). Light would go solid if you hit a lock button.

I wonder why it says Service Airbag. Did it say this when it was running? I am wondering if this, the radio, and the no start are all related. I need to see the datalink and circuit diagram. Just been so darn busy I haven't had the time to look at it. I feel bad you have not figured it out, but surely are on the right track.

You may have answered this but does the radio display anything? or is it completely blank

When you turn the key on is there any lights or messages that stay on the cluster other than BRAKE TO SHIFT?

Does radio still display even though it does not work?

I know that feeling. Posting between Zzzs lol

Wow. Sorry it didn't help.

I will look at some diagrams this weekend. I have a few ideas in mind but would rather not see you waste more time. Thank you for the update

It almost sounds like a plugged filter or weak pump, plugged strainer.

When the load is let off and pressure increases that would be normal. (uses more under load, less not under load)

I do not figure a FPR would cause a consistent low pressure

B1983 occurs with low voltage situation. Less than 9v iirc.

Both modules are showing this.

B1910 is the Alternator L Circuit.

I assume you did pull the black cover off the electrical center? to expose the rest of the fuses and relays.

I would suggest using a multimeter and reading voltage at the electrical center, there is a stud there below the maxifuses. Find a good ground as well, (strut tower works good) Check with key off, key on, During crank.

This will verify if voltage is actually good other than at the battery. 

Does this Deville have one or 2 positive battery cables? Most mid 90s had 2 with a spacer between the 2. Eventually GM started using 1 on some of them