rockfangd

Welcome to Caddyinfo. If yours is like the 90s style I would suggest inspecting the plug that goes to the regulator on the alternator. I have misdiagnosed alternators on these because of that plug. Wire will corrode somewhere near the plug and intermittently lose connection

You do not need a cable or a scantool. Just a way to ground the proper pin. Bruce nailed what I was looking for. The indicator is on the module behind the seat iirc

If the dashboard onboard diag is no help I am pretty sure as well there is a light on the module behind the back seat. There had been a helpful video on YouTube that referenced it. If I can find it I will post it here. May not be same year, but likely same concept

Lower fingers gone

So it appears the fuel pump replacement resolved 2 issues, fuel gauge and lean condition on both banks. Today was the test, let it idle in line at the bank and engine light did not come on. It has been coming on if I let it idle too long

I have certainly seen balljoints bind. Especially the age, and there are 4 of them.

Well I have some good news. I went on a hunch and ordered a fuel pump/sending unit. (MY replacement unit still has warranty) I drove the car until gas was as low in the tank as I was comfortable with, I pulled the tank tonight. The problem was the sending unit. I have been pulling my hair out since this issue started, well over a year ago. lower the tank got the crazier the gauge got. I went crazy driving it the last 2 days. The design is absolutely terrible, I regret replacing the unit with an aftermarket unit. The saving was not worth it. One of the 2 (Feelers) was broken and in the bottom of the tank. I am glad I did not take apart the back seat, or harness. I had a gut feeling. It was very peaceful driving home tonight. Had 2 gallons upon assembly, added 10 gallons. IS accurate. Old unit was 5 years old, and had about 12k miles on it. If it happens again I am bypassing it. Note To anyone who cares. DO NOT BUY AFTERMARKET. The oem ones are not the best solution, but they are the only one that appear to last. I also left the car running when I got home while I checked my mail. Normally If I left the car running for more than about 30 seconds it would pop the check engine light saying lean both banks. Hopeful the pump may have resolved this issue too Pic shows what it is supposed to look like. Note the 2 brass colored feelers. They are cheesy, and the black arm is sloppy (Brand new)

Welcome to CaddyInfo. A few suggestions here. I recommend jacking up the front end. Turn the wheel to the left, then to the right. Feel for binding. This is a long shot but you may have a sticky balljoint. If they are greasable I recommend greasing them well. There was an issue with the gearboxes occasionally but it has been a long time since I ran into one with the issue.

I am pretty certain that is CVRSS. That system is where your codes are coming from. To learn more do a search on Youtube. There is a very informative video about it SLS got the FE1 Soft suspension STS got the FE3?? Sport suspension

Welcome to CaddyInfo. I went through this on my 1997 Seville. I have the same system. I tried for awhile to get the proper parts but they are long discontinued iirc. At least I had no luck. I went with the system that does not function like the originals (bypasses) If I had a choice I would not have. I do notice a difference in handling compared to the original setup. To give you an idea mine has been bypassed for probably 8 years now. I run Arnotts in the rear and have Monroe struts in the front. My original struts had leaked and were making noise. I assume you have RPO FE1 Soft ride 22400527 Left front 22400528 Right front Did the dealer tell you they can get the oem parts? I believe Compatibility for the 1996 was 1995-1996 only. My 1997 was 1997 only. Not sure what the difference is. I know the early ones had the plug on top of the strut but all of the E/K I have dealt with in the last 10 years or so have the sensor down by the base of the strut

My Cutlass Supreme had all the same clips. They hold on great until one gets broke

Probably is intake gaskets. If they are original they may still be the cement ones. The acidity in the coolant causes the most problems with these. I change coolant every couple years regardless of what it is. Been trouble free

T-stat was my exact thought. Glad it went well. What happened to the S10 engine? was it the 2.2l or the 4.3l? Both were actually very good in the S10

Welcome to Caddyinfo. First off if I did the math right you are low on freon. 907.15 grams should be the capacity. Once properly charged you can clear the ACM codes just like you pulled them. Let me know if this works, if it does not we can go farther

Hi All. Last June I put new springs in the rear of my 1997 Seville. The original ones were getting bouncy and the rear was sagging. I have given up with the air ride. It has been repaired too many times and I am tired of fixing it. The Springs I installed are AC Delco 19239608 When I replaced the springs they went well, but the rear suspension now sits high. I was hoping they would have settled but they still have not. I really would like to resolve the issue before I pull it out of storage for the spring. After all the work I did I would hate to have to do them again. I will say for sure that the shocks have nothing to do with it. Even with the air shocks deflated it still looks jacked up. Suspension does have travel. Any insight I am all ears

Well I went to troubleshoot the lights issue today and for whatever reason they all work again. No luck with the gas gauge though. So I guess at least I prevented another issue with the plug under the hood. I am going to try to find a way to trick the gauge to think it is full all the time. I am not putting anything else into it, just want to make it through the winter. Just within the last year this car went from great to crap. I have to figure out what is going to replace it. I'm all ears.

Thank You Bruce. I did that when I cleaned them. Tonight I had a little more patience so I went back to that wide plug. I started the car, then performed a wiggle test, voila Abs, continued wiggle test, car stalled. duplicated, same thing. I then ziptied the plug tight together and both bundles of wire together. I lost Abs again. So I said the hell with it. I cut and spliced probably 10 wires off of the plug. I found that 2 purples on same pin both black inside, 1 small pink black inside, 1 12g red must have gotten hot on both sides (insulation melted to wires. I basically spliced any wire that looked like power, ign, ground, and data (purple). All that are left in the plug look to be SWRC, and cruise control, possibly another thing or 2. I also pulled the trunk access behind the back seat and played with the PZM plugs (can't see them as it is behind the back seat). Somewhere I messed up... I thought I was good to go as ABS and Traction lights are off, car runs fine, I backed car out and noticed I have no headlights😭. No high beams, no low beams, no fogs. I re-inspected all of my repaired wires, all look perfect. No blown fuses. I don't know if the issue could be at the PZM ( I should never have touched it) or if it could be something under the hood, no matter what I did they never came on though. I gave up. I rigged the headlights so I could drive it home. Gas gauge read F all the way home, I left the car running while I disconnected the headlights. When I got back in the car it was reading E-F-E-F-E (tank is nearly full) I am going to attempt to pull the back seat and inspect the PZM, I really don't want to junk it with a full tank. This car just does not like me anymore

Ok. I made things worse. The gauge thing has been driving me nuts. I went on a hunch and pulled the black cover off the under hood electrical center. I went right for the 2 row plug (the common issue one) I found corrosion on the pins toward the center. Not nearly as bad as I would have figured. So I did the pull test on each wire at the pin, all stayed put. Cleaned corrosion and all pins. Found more corrosion at fuel pump relay and AC relay. Cleaned those and replaced relays. Checked around the rest of the fuses and relays. Whatever I did now I lost ABS/ Traction control. No Data.😭. I also noted on the way home that sometimes when the gas gauge fluctuated that the ABS light would flicker off and then back on... I would like a diagram specifically for that plug. I know the cruise control is in that plug, but there is probably 20 wires in that plug. Any insight? Now I have to deal with 2nd gear start and a crazy dash. I am ready to drive it straight to the junk yard.

Is radio original or aftermarket? Very important question If factory can you please take a picture of it. There was a few different systems used in that year

This should be moved to the correct part of the forum where it will likely get more accurate responses. Welcome to CaddyInfo. I would ask what gear the cluster shows, but you state the IPC went out. I was leaning toward a neutral safety switch. Located atop the transmission at the shift lever. If you can get a code reader hooked up I would like to know the list of PCM codes. Does your cluster ever come on? Even a flicker... I am assuming the system is seeing a problem and going into limp mode.

Check the battery terminals. May be loose. Check ground connections under there as well. Check the underside of the fuse box to make sure there are no corroded wires

Specifically 96 is the most desired. I cant stand the early 2000s ones. Also did not care for the Allante. Looks nice but probably the hardest to find part. If I could find a decent one for a decent price that I would be comfortable using for a DD I would jump on it. My Seville is still a garage queen. (another one that is impossible to get parts for) I don't need... another mint one

I do care about the gas prices only because of how much it costs to fuel. I average about 80-90 a week. It is better in the warm months when I can ride the motorcycle. Even that is noticeable. I was paying about 5.50 to fill up, now almost 10. Car is not from a dealer, but rather part of an estate. I really need to see it for myself...

Excellent to hear. I have better luck with the small shops, companies, and solo enthusiasts than I do with large companies

Thanks. Fuel is a sore subject... a few unique problems to these Caddys is the lack of manufacturers of parts. For my Seville parts are nearly impossible to find, and have been for a long time now. They are not like Chevys, Fords, and Chryslers that you could get most parts for.